How To Build Wheel Engaging Adapters For Your 2-Post Car Lift

[@kaseymccleary946]

These comments amaze me. SMH he's not lifting a semi, or even is HD truck. Each arm will never have more than 1200 lbs weight. There are many companies that make the exact same style of wheel adapter he made with great results. Do your homework before making a dumb comment.

[@Projectblackkjack]

Well said

[@johntrevena4280]

yep true,, so many over engineer components , but when you know what the numbers are , and so how much the other part(s) need to be capable of handling the "load". people with Dyslexia really can visualize in there mind loadsa full on stuff like C.A.D all but!! can just look at something and instantly know whats involved and thats Engineering vocational Experience.. Anyone can see Rich is a unique individual when it comes to being a Junk yard genius.. a thats whats liked about de boz garage for starters,motors!!

[@woodwardbeardsley2413]

Kasey McCleary do the calcs on loads in one axis and then add a moment and you’ll quickly find out that what you thought was “over engineered” at first glance was actually under engineered. It’s like a truss, it can hold 10,000 lbs in one axis but can only handle a moment of 100 ft-lbs before it fails. What he made was fine, it’s those telescoping arms that are sketchy as frig

[@fascistpedant758]

Kasey McCleary I've seen only one model of such a device. It's similar to Ritch's. I think it's a poor design. It probably quintuples the stress on the inside wall of the sliding tube. While probably still within the design safety factor if he limits the load he puts on it, it's not really a good idea to reduce your safety factor that much. Someday, someone unaware of the situation may try to lift a much heavier load than the tubes can hold. His lift can probably lift 10000# before maxing out. I like knowing my lift will max out before failing structurally.

[@wobblysauce]

@@fascistpedant758 Yep just made a longer leaver.

[@J-Eagan]

To preface this, I’m a long time viewer and I love the channel especially since you’re not afraid to try new things and adapt. You’ve been an inspiration to me especially with the Audi, but for your saftey I think you might want to rethink this a little. As a 3rd year mechanical engineering student, I’m concerned about a few thing with that design. First it seems as though you’re using bolts as pins, this puts them in a shear loading condition which they are not suited for, as bolts are brittle and when they shear they will just let go completely without much warning. Normally you’d rely on the friction between the surfaces you are clamping with the bolt to take that shear force. So I’d recommend changing to a big pin like a Clevis pin. Second you are putting the telescoping arms in torsion with the moment arm you’ve created by moving the center of force applied away from the centerline of the lift arms. Ideally you’d want this distance to be zero, as you’ve pointed out the square tube of the lift arms and the telescoping section are not meant to take this sort of twist and so the deflection adds up. Ideally you’d support the vehicle with the arms extending to the center of the tire to minimize the torsional forces in the arms, or do what you can to reduce the distance between the force action line and the arm centerline.

[@RzAn8]

I would agree with you if the load was at its max in the lifts normal use. Redundancy in the lift design not taken into account plenty of redundancy in Rich design and that bolt wont shear at a mostly static load of 500kg It'll be fine

[@jix177]

Agree. Rich is a great mechanic and no fool, and I'm just a guy on the internet - but with good intent! The lateral and torsional forces here would make me nervous. While I might get under it myself, I'd hesitate to get anyone to join me unless there was another line of defense in case, say, a cradle drooped and a wheel slid down off it. The idea behind it is great though.

[@johntrevena4280]

wow,, when u know yer shit who can tell u any different,,, I praise up anyone who speakers up to producers questioning there content which can be shaky grounds for Argue-Tube!! fair play... keep on keeping on keen eyed mechanical watcher... JT

[@J-Eagan]

rzan8 true, but I’d always prefer to have a slow and gradual failure of the pin, rather than the abrupt failure of a bolt used in shear. Also the threads are stress risers on bolts used in shear so it’s difficult for to accurately estimate how much force a bolt will take in shear.

[@wayneparris3439]

Well, I am retired now and spent a lifetime in making tooling and was a certified weld inspector.... uh, I would not get under that contraption. Just saying. Go ahead, ya all gonna trash me anyway, just giving a comment based on real life. YMMV!

[@TheBrokenLife]

I see a lot of my fellow engineers commenting, and I'm also not encouraged by the rotation created on the arms, but there seems like an easy fix here... Make cross tubes that the left and right tire fixtures slid into and pin on. Then the entire system is 1 framework being picked up by 4 points, as the lift was designed to do. So... Take a few more pipes and turn your tire lifter into a modular lifting frame.

[@1936Glen]

I was thinking the same. You could probably get away with just one cross bar for each axle I'd bet.

[@consaka1]

That's actually a good idea.

[@TheBrokenLife]

@@consaka1 Ehhh... i looked around some more and what he did does exist commercially as it is designed, but man, it makes me nervous all the same. Whatever happens, i just hope everybody stays safe.

[@bandaid1957]

2 sections of reciever tube welded to the wheel lift forks and a lenth of 2x2 tube would be perfect as a crossbar.

[@mrcumminsforlife5943]

i think u should have some sort of plate or tubing going across the insides of the tires that u secure after u slide those adapters around the wheels. would help them from wanting to kick out if ur weight shift for any reason.

[@TheAlignmentGuy_TM]

Twin post lifts have toothed locks to keep the arms from swinging when the lift is up. They disengage when the lift hits bottom. Jeff The Alignment Guy ®

[@matthewshambler2644]

I was thinking the same thing, even though the lift arms lock in place.. it’s just a bit of extra security and the tension load between left and right wheels would help with the deflection..

[@fascistpedant758]

Jeff Forss The two lifts I work with only lock two arms and one is defective on one lift. I don't think they were intended for a regular side load. When I lift a vehicle, the loads are only vertical.

[@TheAlignmentGuy_TM]

@@fascistpedant758 I figure they were to keep the arm from scooting out on normal use. Still, there is something there. The arms do not swing free once the lift it up. My place: www.flickr.com/photos/thealignmentguy/46474362245/in/dateposted-public/ www.flickr.com/photos/thealignmentguy/46569515542/in/dateposted-public/

[@fascistpedant758]

Jeff Forss I can only imagine that if the arms are trying to scoot out, you're not picking proper lift points. They'd probably be difficult to push out even if you would want to once they're loaded. The locks must be mainly for those "special" people, but you never know, shit can happen to anyone. Nice four post, I wouldn't mind one of those. Cars with side skirts and trucks with running boards can be a PITA to lift.

[@randomrandy1166]

definitely not the sketchiest thing i have ever seen done on a hoist.. love it

[@joecourteau9792]

Do you have a materials list or can you provide some measurements for the pieces please. Thank you

[@pkuudsk9927]

Bend pack just give Rich a hoist please along with 4 corner safety jacks. Rich why not just incorporate lift points on the car like the rally guys do . 4 holes and some pipe welded to the roll cage would be way safer.

[@signlsirchir2156]

I despise lifting low vehicles. rally style lift points I would love. But onto the lift arms, awesome idea but execution eh, I hate how they seem to extend the arms creating more leverage. A higher attaching point would create a triangular cradle, hell just use a cushion to protect the wheel lift with tire slings attached to the hoist.

[@pkuudsk9927]

@@signlsirchir2156 You cant take the wheels off then .

[@xylosfurniture]

Hi guys. I have been looking for a solution to end my struggles when lifting my atv and quad bikes on my hoist. This design is going to make my life soooo much easier. Thanks a lot for sharing. Great job.

[@donkiebals123]

That's a good idea. I had a 2 post lift, and now I have a 4 post lift. They each have their pros and cons, but this seems to make a 2 post work more like a 4 post lift when you want the car sitting on its wheels.

[@fascistpedant758]

At first sight it's a little sketchy but as long as you know and don't overload it, it's not so bad. I'd move one of the holes over to compensate for the slop, you're just screwing the pooch trying to shim it. You really should rig a removable brace inside the wheel to be sure it cant slip out. In hindsight, you might have been better to fabricate a dedicated set of those tubes that slide out of the lift, just for this application. I might have a go at this myself, I've been thinking of fabricating removable ramps for mine, but this could do.

[@rustednbustedmopars6087]

Next Deboss garage- “we discontinued tapeboss and patented our wheel lifts”

[@Coondawgwoopwoop]

THey really do need to market this lift adapter. I'm sure there's plenty of metal shops that would work with them on producing these things! I know tapeboss is his creation so I'm not going to bash it and say to stop but he should capitalize on this idea regardless .

[@rustednbustedmopars6087]

I love my tapeboss and I talked to rich last year about it and he said he was having trouble getting it out there but I’ve been working in my auto/ heavy equipment shop for 10 years and never thought about something like this but it sure would be handy and I bet it would sell amazingly

[@ivanmorales3265]

I have a tape boss but it doesn't say tape boss on it, so the Chinese already stole his idea and are producing it. Bought it at a garage sale long before I found this channel

[@matrix777able]

Perfect thank you for the video . I installed a 2 post just before Christmas, there was an option for these wheel picks but wow they wanted an arm &leg . Thanks again and happy new year from Alberta

[@jeepindave5464]

As a professional engineer... thats super sketchy. The brackets you made are super beefy, but the holes you used for your pin are designed for a straight vertical load using the feet pegs. With the brackets, it now puts a rotational load on the square tubing of the lift that probably not designed for it. If each corner weighed 1000 pounds and center of load was 6 inches from the pin, then you have 500 foot pounds of torque on each lift arm. Considering most commercially sold products are just strong enough to prevent a lawsuit, i think eventually you will have problems.

[@gavinhowell06]

Totally agree there will be a large rotational moment ☹️

[@dmitrytraining]

I'd also be worried about the horizontal vector from the deflection. The only thing resisting the arms from swinging outward is the tire friction and the teeth on the arm locks (assuming the lift has those). I'd add a removable plate on the inside of the forks to capture the tire.

[@GregsStoneYard]

Nothing good usually follows "I'm not an engineer but..."

[@dmorrill22]

Big fan of the channel too, and have no doubt those are strong enough to take the weight of whatever car. But just as Dave has pointed out, this is scary. You're introducing a large torsional load on those skinny telescoping arms. If those arms were made of taller rectangular tubing, it would be a lot better, but as it is, they are only square tubing and the ends of the arms where the wheel adapters go are also cut in half height-wise. So they really aren't designed to handle the additional torsional load these adapters are introducing.

[@RussZHC]

I always struggle with the compromise between strength and weight (esp automotive applications where extra weight can be an issue), as a layman my opinion would be the brackets made are a much, much heavier build than they need to be BUT that opinion is based solely on them, the brackets, being far heavier material than the ends of those arms they are attaching to...now I suppose the correct method would be to do all the maths involved and actually figure out wall thickness and such but most times that is not going to happen as you are building. Thoughts, suggestions, in general, not necessarily the brackets in particular?

[@kNasty_]

I'd probably just replace the bolts with real pins, and run it. Maybe some swiveling locking tabs to capture the inside of the tire. Although with as sketchy as it looks, and how it puts forces on the lift that weren't accounted for in its design and construction, I'd definitely inspect the lift arms and pin holes for deformation after every use, and discontinue use if any is found. I know a lot of these comments come off as if they're shitting on you, but everyone here just wants you safe. Your build looks good, and no one is worried about your contraption breaking. We just want you to keep making cool shit.

[@GMCJay_lly]

Naples florida sweater. I saw Stefan wearing a Fort Myers shirt also.

[@Projectblackkjack]

We used to go there a lot back in the day

[@AuMechanic]

Id be welding some more square tube on the outside of the outriggers so you can slide a long cross beam between the left and right sides to take out the twisting load on the legs.

[@istvanmeissler2238]

Great idea. I'll make mine with a little bias (up) built in to compensate for the necessary slop.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

It will be difficult to slide them under the tires

[@istvanmeissler2238]

@@DEBOSSGARAGE 1) I thought of that, as I am sure you did. I will make a mock up to see if I can have a little bias, but I will do it for "looks" as I am sure what you made will be fine. I am grateful for the idea, as it is just what I needed. Clever Canadian. 2) I was amazed that you can buy a truck from the US and if you have a title, just drive it in. I live in No. Michigan and would love to buy a car (made in the US) from Canada but I understand it is a big hassle. We will see. 3) Love your channel. Scanned all your video titles. Have you made a "Everything wrong with the 12V Cummins"? 4) I thought it was bad to weld a truck frame. I thought you had to rivet it so no cracking. Is that old info which is no longer true? Much thanks.

[@BruceBusby]

Uhhhmmmm nope! I'm a mech eng. Please don't use these. Torsional load arms, bolts used in shear. Extra load moment for the extension. Etc. Please dont! Picking up the center of the tire would remove some of the concerns. Better to weld tabs on the car for lifting locations

[@mitchdenner9743]

Mechanical engineer yet he can't spell torsional.

[@BruceBusby]

@@mitchdenner9743 that's what you got out of my comments? You're a winner!

[@mitchdenner9743]

@@BruceBusby got to break balls smarty pants.

[@deth3021]

@@mitchdenner9743 most engineers I know are terrible at spelling. Math and science are more important.

[@emjoneshouseDIY]

Just an engineers opinion but... your putting a moment or torque load on a structural member that was designed only for a cantilevered load. It may be OK for awhile but it really increases the pucker factor for me while watching the vid lol....one ill affect coming from this deflection is that your force from the car pushing against the lift is no longer straight down but at an angle. Imagine the surface between the tire and the adapter becoming just slick enough to allow them to slip causing the adapter to slip and rotate away from the car dropping the car on its side or worse... you or someone you know. Just stuff to think about bud. I like you channel by the way! Just trying to look out for you!

[@kylesalem-fuson8012]

Lifts dont work like that. The have a gear type mechanism at the posts to prevent the arms from moving once they are picked up.

[@fascistpedant758]

Kyle Salem-Fuson Not all lifts have them on all four arms, and they often stop working properly in time. They're meant as a failsafe mechanism, not to be relied on during normal use.

[@xioux24]

E J ,you are 100% correct!

[@turboflush]

We use this on HD trucks.. probably where you got the idea. I like it.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

You got it! I saw a couple pics for the adapters on 2 post hoists online but couldn't find any for my hoist

[@Kashaww]

There's no f*cking way everyone watching this channel is an engineer.

[@GavinY]

I'm sure you can easily get a set of Stertil Koni , wireless 4 post wheel jacks

[@matthewshambler2644]

gav, those are awesome.. saw them on Jay Leno’s Garage.. they lift his fire truck!

[@iwtommo]

Easy yes, less so on the wallet :P

[@Wordsnwood]

+1 for rolling up the rim !! Please Play/Pay Again!

[@ed909]

Your contraption does not inspire confidence. I didn't see any video of that cat walking underneath the hoist. Take that as a warning. Cats have premonition abilities. Humans not so much.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Cat was having a nap inside the car at the time ...

[@jvsyoutube3298]

@@DEBOSSGARAGE haha, full confidence of owner by kitty, good

[@SlingBlade1969]

I have no idea about the structure or integrity of this design but God it looks pretty, good job! Lol

[@tmmtmm]

The solution is to have the end of the arm directly centred under the wheel, just like the factory setup has the end of the arm directly centred under the jacking point. Literally all that needs to be made are some oversize pads for the arms, with the pin dead center and two bars on top to prevent the tires from rolling. Obviously this will be higher off the ground since it's on top of the arm instead of beside it, so you might need some blocks/ramps to drive the car up on to it. Adjusting the arms so the wheels are perfectly centred over the pin location when the car is lifted is important. And yes it also means the arms get in the way of the sills instead of being completely out to the sides of the car. Slightly less convenient but much safer since the lift is being loaded exactly the same way as when it's used with jacking points.

[@davidmccrary879]

Add an adjustable link to tie the front two together, something like a piece of pipe the correct length slid up into the triangle.

[@garysgarage.2841]

You solved two problems. One you created a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. And two you created a problem that future scholars can try and solve.

[@jvsyoutube3298]

get a flatbar on the inside between the two fangs with bolts just dropped in so they cant shoot out from the tyre

[@fascistpedant758]

I would definitely consider fabricating new tubes dedicated to the adapters. A bend or offset in the sliding tube to shift the load to the center line of the other tube would eliminate the torsion and the slop where they mate. Continuing the tube to the pivot point would spread the bearing points apart and reduce the slop at that joint and shear stress on the pin. The tube could be made longer to increase its penetration into the other tube to reduce the force at their contact points.

[@m.s.l.7746]

Remember, when welding on truck frames & things like this always weld inline with the structure & never across it. Good thing you tacked the plate on the angle iron first or you might have been tempted to weld across the inside, which would weaken the angle iron forks considerably (if you even get good penitration with that wire-feed that is).

[@jacobkelley257]

Put some grip tape on the angled part of the arms maybe, or some lock bar on the inside of the tires. IDK or shim them so they are level under load. Otherwise look very strong

[@sourbrothers73]

That grider disc at 1:39 reminds me of my brother (:

[@mWaffen]

Engineering Suggestion: Bolted Tie-pole between the ends of your inserts will stabilize both sides and form a 'link' to distribute gravitational pull once the vehicle is up.

[@yepnope6468]

I have seen worse additions to equipment that do a lot more.. NICE JOB!!

[@Studio23Media]

I don't know much about welding or engineering, but I'm not walking under that thing. 😂 And even I know not to use bolts as pins.

[@rafaloberc3194]

Weld plate at end of forks so will not slide out or weld some cleats/ beeds to inner surface or forks for tire to grab to

[@chopfather2730]

Nice job! Like always!!!! Can't wait for the next video!

[@deibama]

I wouldn't get under it; cold lap single pass welds made with a lousy Lincoln on 5/8(?) plate? What grade bolts will be in shear? I'll pass.

[@embreesmith7613]

exactly !! this should be a stick weld project, and maybe pre-heat

[@dropdeadfred7321]

If you connect the left and right sets of front and rear wheel cradles with a tube that goes across the span of the wheels it would remove all sketchyness... and keep the cradles level. The tube would be removable ofcourse by just welding sleeves onto each cradle

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Thought about that yeah, thanks!

[@kaivbech]

I absolutely agree, this is a brilliant idea, apart from the torsional forces you put on the lift arms when you swing them out from the center of the hoist. If the manufacturer states it’s ok, then no worries, if not, then somehow make a bar to stick in between the left and right crates to take up the torsional forces.

[@johnpossum556]

Should have welded those adapters up so they have a bit of an upward tilt to them. About 3 to 7 degrees should be good. That way it'd sort of cup the wheel weight towards the hoist instead of away from it. Should be a little safer that way. Also I would have put the spacers on the top plate instead of the bottom. You always have to think a little bit ahead of gravity when designing for very heavy things because the sheer weight always ends up pulling things a little bit. (Unless it's extremely strong like built with big triangular gussets) Funny responses, though. Here you've got one guy promoting you sell these things and about 20 online enginerds saying how its overstressing the design of the original machine. The interweb is priceless! Thanks for inspiring more humor on this week's episode of "Laurel and Hardy re-hardy CarLift Enginerding" ! What I'd do is get out your laser level you use for leveling up foundations and put it at a standard height, say 6 feet, then put your level on it and take a few picts to your phone. Then every few months check it against those pictures at the same height. That way you'll know if anything is starting to give way. I think you are mostly fine with the design but a few minutes of safety checking from time to time will really let you know where you are.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

I wouldn't be able to slide the arms under the tires if I did that

[@RiggsCo]

Nice work! Great idea for Debocho.

[@tdhessg16]

Add a cross bar at the front and back with a pin on each end and slotted holes along one side. Deflection issue fixed.

[@tjf9948]

I'm usually not one to correct, but that car has an OM602 in it. The OM604, 5, 6 weren't put in W124 chassis Mercedes till '94. Btw, maybe it has a bad glow plug, Mercedes diesels have a great reputation for starting in the cold as long as its healthy.

[@Blondie5791]

Correct. Unless it's been swapped already. The 601 602 603 were great. A bit slow without a turbo but a bog standard diesel engine that is able to drive to the edge of the universe and back.( Just slowly though ) Worked on many T1 vans with mega miles.

[@spwhateverable]

Maybe add some d rings and use the straps that these types of lift arms use on tow trucks. Where it straps the wheel onto the fingers of the extension. Would help prevent the wheel from slipping off the fingers.

[@maxwilding]

Pretty certain that the Mercedes will have the OM602 engine and not the OM605, the OM605 didn't come out until 1993 and was twin cam where as the 602 is single, but had the fully mechanical injection pump instead of the later EDC pump - OM605 Owner, BTW OM stands for oil motor

[@jeremysmith8990]

I’m gonna build these for my 2012 RAM 2500 6.7 Cummins 4x4 with 38” tires on my 7k 2 post lift but I’ll 2 pass all those joints...lol here goes nothing, since I can’t get my 2014 Corvette Stingray on it maybe this will help!

[@Leofred2000]

Wont the legs twist making them harder to move in and out?

[@eriksayer884]

Here's a new idea I bet even the engineers would approve of. Attach some 2" ratchet straps at the end of each wheel cradle to strap over the tire. This would get rid of the "torsional load" on the bolts and would keep the car very secure while still having total mobility underneath. I'm just some guy but for whatever my opinion is worth, I would not be comfortable standing under that as is.

[@ricardopino4857]

Hey those lift extentioszzz are 4 a honda civic

[@YZ250Yamaha969]

You actually want to put the thicker piece on the bottom. Metals(most) can handle tension better than compression. But it looks like it worked for you and 3/4” maybe over kill. Be safe

[@philiprizek6384]

Hey you know keep in mind the world is round not everything has to be square if you're okay with it so am I you did a good job

[@fowletm1992]

This is the sketchest thing iv seen in a while Love it

[@robertphillips41]

hey have anyone on here come across an issue with the security system in the 2000 chevy silverado trucks causing a compleat and total shut down? if so how is it fixed?

[@RussZHC]

WAG but a place to start might be getting "in" via something like HP Tuners and removing the VATS? (Vehicle Anti-Theft System). Not sure how valuable that information is, someone else commenting might want to decide that...

[@kingtut5923]

Very nice idea just put a piece of steel in front from tire to tire

[@embreesmith7613]

from the video it doesnt appear that there is much material in the fillet consult a Steel Detailing book

[@zeropointzero]

It's a good idea, but the torque load applied to the hoist arms is concerning. Perhaps a rig that passes from one side to the other, and then hooks up to the arms would be better. Or, redesign the wheel saddles so the part that links to the hoist arm is at an angle to prevent torsional load.

[@josephamos2876]

WHY not add a 10 Deg rake on the mounting plates to pre-compensate?

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

I wouldn't be able to slide the arms under the tires....

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great project

[@otherstuffbybob]

If someone turns the steering wheel....well take your pick, wheel slides through lift, front corner of car slides out Oh and what the other guys said - just the weight of the car alone can rotate out those wheel caddies and the car falls down in the middle, or front, or back

[@scottmcdonald7771]

Rich, pay no mind to those engineers. The design has been proven repeatedly with almost every wheel lift ever installed on a wrecker. If it holds up going 75 down the highway with the car bouncing up and down, it will hold up in the shop no problem.

[@terryhenry5993]

To all these so called eng haters what degree do you have in lift production go check out a semi tow trk wheel lift same design and if your not useing it whats the prob id work under it gtratz on those tight welds there prob the strongest welds on a lift thanks for the vid i enjoyed it

[@ryanmacewen511]

The only scary part is watching HOLLOW telescoped square tubing twist. Great idea though.. but um... hold my beer, I'm going under. lol

[@fascistpedant758]

If I don't come back, give my beer to my wife. Oh!... and tell her I love her.

[@jamesm9766]

I would use a good grade of bolt or pin that would be your weakest point I believe

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

On the list. Bolt isn't enough. If it can pick up the 4400 lbs Mercedes, our 3400 lbs Audi will be fine. The engine is usually out of it anyway!

[@turboflush]

The arms twisting. Was never designed to be that far out and taking a sideways load. It is a way stronger lift though than the load on it. I would use it.

[@johnpossum556]

@@turboflush It's not twisting. What he should have done is shortened that bottom plate a smidge thus tilting the whole thing up just a few degrees. What he's got going is just some slop because the top and bottom holes have space between them and so does the hole in the lift. This is very typical when you start making these kinds of connections regardless of how much weight is onboard.

[@turboflush]

@@johnpossum556 Your missing what I am talking about. I know and see the slop.

[@iwtommo]

Lift tech guy here You do see stuff like this out there but its usually more like this www.sviinternational.com/sites/default/files/Turf_Lift_Attachments_MLM_0.jpg These put the non extending part of the lift arm in torsion but thats okay because the carriage-to-arm pins can take it. The turf lift addon arms are super heavy though and not hand carryable like your design - and of course the non extension arms wont reach the wheelbase of the audi. Only thing i would say (no doubt youve thought of this already) is to keep an eye on the telescoping arms of the lift and make sure they dont open up/go out of square from the twisting force, they likely arent designed to take this sort of force but id bet can take it fine. Maybe that thin shim you briefly mentioned at 13:05 might help, but tight fitting telescoping arms do like to get stuck at the merest whiff of dirt. I've seen many contraptions bolted up to lifts, with varying degrees of engineering fortitude. This is definitely not the sketchiest!

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

I came across these while browsing and just copied them. I realize the the arms are rectangular and ours our square but they are also 1/2" thick. I'm wondering if an engineer on here can tell me how much force it takes to rotate 1 square tube 2' long inside another 4x4"x 1/2" square tube.

[@iwtommo]

@@DEBOSSGARAGE Exactly. Sometimes the 'strong as hell' factor means you can get away with not having engineering design perfection. Provided your arm locks are good, id run it!

[@krzysiekv12]

Not sure this lift was designed to take on such adapters Force is now twisting the arms instead of ltibg flat down But im not an engineer

[@XTCMatrix]

Must be an older video, still got the roll up

[@moebius2k103]

I would not get under a car on those things. Wow don’t you realise someone could die. Equipment like this should only ever be used as intended.

[@rafatrill]

U should of attached joints from one side to the other that would be made it solid

[@vmaxes]

Idono....kinda sketchy with that sloping angle ....

[@tomahoks]

kerry gordon But, then again, where is it gonna slide. Nowhere.

[@Ian_S]

Thomas Greiwe The arms have locks to keep that from happening. On the ground, there are pins that are pushed up and allow the arms to swing freely. Once the lift reaches a few inches off the ground, those pins drop down and engage the locks.

[@tmmtmm]

@Thomas Greiwe it's only pushing outwards a little bit but the reason that it's pushing out at all is the problem - the slop in the bolt/pin and twisting of the arms due to torsional load. The fact that the wheel is pushing downward on a surface that is sloped creates the outwards force. If the wheels were centred over the ends of the arms there would be no problem.

[@bergan1227]

Look up Deboss Garage lift it the dictionary ( Thats a bit sketchy )

[@ivanmorales3265]

I need a close up of that sammich stephon was eating

[@ggordon4127]

It supported your buddy I say your good to go.

[@kylesalem-fuson8012]

This looks like the kinda shit I would do at my shop. Kinda sketchy. And I have my concerns. But all these guys talking about the lift arms sliding away from the car... Any quality 2 post lift will have gear type mechanism at the posts that prevent the arms from rotating once picked up above like, 6 inches? Or less. Every lift is different. But every lift ive worked with, once the car is up, the arms cant move laterally.

[@jraiello]

Lively debate, I am wary of getting under my 2 post when the arms aren’t deflecting, this scares me.

[@alanswanson5642]

I think you should have went all the way across. It would eliminate the twisting force

[@triumphovertragedy7860]

6:39 totally seen that coming.. 😂🤷‍♂️

[@matthewshambler2644]

Nothing against the engineers, I understand there’s a lot of different loading and forces here “going the wrong way”.. but for what it’s actually going to be used for, it will work.. even with 8.8 M16/18 bolts instead of pins (which are better). Enjoy Rich, nice welding work!

[@davidwostrel]

Put a triangular cross brace in the tire cradles to take out the rotation to the other side. Hell a piece of angle iron would probably work. Cool build though just dont drop a car on yourself :)

[@mopartshemi]

I would be fucking terrified to work under that id think the arm would kick out and the pads would slide out from under the wheels

[@andrewhans]

My wife always says "Seconds away from 400 K" lmao

[@jamescorvett]

i wouldnt put my car on them, nor would i walk under it. that twist in the lift parts under the wheels is kinda scary! good idea tho. lol oh and the open area at the inside of those forks looks like it could slide off the wheels it the lift arms moved out. might wanna box that in...?

[@stabbs_15]

Under the plastic rockercover it probably is pretty crispy

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Holy. Its Holy under there

[@kwiebusch]

Looks like Mohawklifts says the lift's max capacity drops about 4000lbs with the tire engaging adaptors they sell. Which sounds logical.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

7500 lbs hoist, 3500 lbs race car. Sounds about right. Tested with a 4400 lbs junk car!

[@kwiebusch]

@@DEBOSSGARAGE good to go :o)

[@stoneyswolf]

There's a reason no shop ever has something like that.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Just Google "2 wheel lift adapterswww.google.com/search?q=2+post+lift+wheel+adapters&client=ms-android-doogee&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj9qufYhYXhAhWBj4MKHbYWBRcQ_AUoAXoECAsQAQ&biw=360&bih=592#imgrc=gZ7dzCMFfuMAtM

[@robtheknob7791]

I like the rectangular tubing in the google link as opposed to the square tubing on your lift arms. They seem better suited to take the forces being introduced with those adapters. It’s sketchy looking for sure. Also a pin designed to take the load as opposed to a bolt. I do admire your ability to make things rather than buy them but when it’s your life or being overly cautious I’d choose being overly cautious. Over build it and take suggestions from concerned knowledgeable people. No offense just want to be able to enjoy your content for years to come.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

None taken. Hard to tell who is knowledgeable and who is a keyboard warrior. At the end of the day, I thought about it, built it feel 100% to use it. If I didn't trust it, I wouldn't put it on the internet or use it. Of everyone commenting on this page, I am the only one that has built one.

[@fascistpedant758]

You don't have to know who is knowledgeable. Read the comments and use your experience and common sense to evaluate them. Do some research if you feel it's worth it. You can learn interesting things from the comments sometimes. BTW Your "I am the only one that has built one." comment is like those "are you an engineer?" or "I'm an engineer" comments. It's not a valid argument. Just saying.

[@consaka1]

The added leverage due to the added distance from the post is going to derate that lift. In other words if its a 7000 lb lift it is now about 6,000lbs or less. Let one of the real engineers commenting do the math for you to let you know what the lift is now rated for. approximately of course. Love your projects but have my doubts about this one. I have completely redone some of my engineerings or scrapped it for the same reasons. I'm not good with number crunching but if I look where the stress is and have doubts I just look at other options. Of course, that's not even counting the new torsional stresses.

[@TioBullNation]

Nice

[@nrvsauto8990]

Just curious, what's the point of this?

[@Sjackson2369]

Andy Kehler in some cases it’s easier to lift a car by the wheels than on the frame: something that is extremely lowered, lifting points have rusted out etc. alternatively, there are lifting systems where you pick up the whole vehicle with independent wheel lifts that are tied together in series. Useful for lifting fire trucks.

[@josephvavken3235]

Nice 👍🏼

[@marcheynderickx7985]

Why does this episode remind me of the Red-Green show?

[@fascistpedant758]

No duct tape. And Ritch is handsome. (hmm cough cough)

[@Fierofreak01]

Great concept, but it will only work on symmetrical lifts and won't work on asymmetrical lifts unfortunately.

[@fascistpedant758]

Fierofreak01 Why would it not work on asymmetrical lifts?

[@michaelblacktree]

The twisting force on the arms makes me cringe. The arms weren't designed for that. Maybe you could make some lift pads that sit on top of the arms (like the originals do) with built-in wheel chocks, or something. Or you could add lift points to the Audi's roll cage.

[@ddgatewood71]

I'm not sure what to say... I've been catching myself saying "Here we go" now. I guess it's not so bad. If I started talking like AvE I might get some stern looks. ha

[@444681]

Do what you want but I would be afraid of them sliding out....

[@kylesalem-fuson8012]

Most 2 post lifts have a type of gear at the post, to prevent the arms from moving even with normal pads on them.

[@fascistpedant758]

They're meant to come into play in extreme cases. It's not a good idea to count on them for regular use.

[@Jack-tx2ve]

You can tell Rich likes to get his money's worth by the size of his grinding disk.

[@RobertKohut]

Danger!!

[@drishy94303]

Good and solid... (repeats it) ... Lol!

[@cesarconh895]

I would make these myself, but pray to God that I don’t have to use them that ofte😬

[@mineshkatwaroo9495]

Madness

[@robwigglezz944]

More sketchy, more better

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Keeps it exciting