How To Calibrate Your 3D Printers Extruder Esteps (Ender 3)

[@samschneider5238]

Thank you so much, I just got a new extruder and this helped me a lot!!

[@fadelfarae6019]

How do I find out my current e-step value

[@jojabrock9997]

@@fadelfarae6019 You can go to configuration>advanced settings>steps per millimeter on an Ender 3

[@larryfroot]

At last. Someone has explained "the simple mathematical formula" that is so simple, no-one else is prepared to share it. I mean, why not rely on newbies being telepathic? Thank you so much for this explanation as to how the e-steps are actually calculated. Really appreciated.

[@TheSchane]

There is a time and place for detailed, laborious tutorials when you want to learn. But this one was quick, too the point, and clear enough for laymen to understand and follow. Cheers for not over-complicating things. very well done.

[@JoshStribling]

Thanks for the tutorial! FYI: These same basic steps can be done using the Ender 3 control panel as well. Here are the steps for setting up the test: 1.) "Control > Temperature > Preheat PLA conf" -- to change the End temperature from default 185 -> 210 2.) "Control > Motion > Steps/mm" -- to view and modify the steps for each axis. (Default for E does seem to be 93.0) 3.) "Control > Store Settings" -- to SAVE the changes that you made. Then to test: 1.) "Prepare > Preheat PLA > Preheat PLA End" -- to start warming up the nozzle 2.) "Prepare > Auto Home" -- to home the printer 3.) "Prepare > Move Axis > Move Z > Move 10mm" -- set to 50mm 4.) "Prepare > Move Axis > Move Y > Move 10mm" -- set to 50mm 5.) "Prepare > Move Axis > Move X > Move 10mm" -- set to 50mm 6.) -- Wait on the Info screen for the Nozzle to reach 210 -- 7.) "Prepare > Move Axis > Extruder > Move 10mm" -- increment the current value by 100mm *Note: If you do several tests in a row, the Extruder value does not reset to 0, so just add 100mm to the current value (such as 100 -> 200 for the second test) At this point you can measure the filament per instructions in the video. If you need to make adjustments, be sure to use the current E-step value in place of 93.0 for the 9300 / [extruded length] calculation, and then repeat steps 2-3 in the setup. Then, if your nozzle is still hot and you did not home the print head, run the test again starting at step 7. Finally, once you have an acceptable measurement, you can either... A.) Start printing something! (since you hot end is ready to go) B.) Be sure to cooldown your print head before turning the printer off... Cooldown: 1.) "Prepare > Cooldown" -- Turn off the heater in your print head 2.) -- Wait on the Info screen for the Nozzle to reach ~30 -- 3.) Turn off the printer

[@chho900]

Excellent, thank you Josh! I have also been thinking (oh yes! ;-) ) about why not using the built-in possibilities in the Ender-3 Pro I got. I will give this a try as I think my printer is heavily over-extruding the filament, having the extruder stepper motor "jumping/clicking" from time to time. A setting of 90% flow seems to eliminate most of these obnoxious clickings without affecting the printed results in a negative way, but the estep calibration should make the printer be spot on. Testings will follow...

[@alexcrowder1673]

@@chho900 if you are having extrusion issues and its clicking on you, you might want to consider a dual gear extruder. You can get a dual gear bmg extruder clone for 15 bucks on amazon. Reviews are generally excellent (depending on the clone), some of the clones have even higher rated reviews than the 90 dollar original. Youll have to calibrate e steps again, but it sounds like you were going to calibrate it anyways.

[@sdl4k362]

Thank you for the Information. Do i also have to calibrate the Extruder again if i want to switch between Filmenets?

[@zeeschnitzel]

Thank you. Saving this for later.

[@ManOfManyLayers]

I don't calibrate e-steps often enough to remember the gcodes & formula. I've came back to this same video multiple times over the past few years. Extremely helpful, thanks for making this!

[@vernonrandall3307]

Not sure if you have seen this. I tried your process at least 5 times and the M500 would not store. Until I remembered a KZbin channel were it was mentioned to make sure you have an sd card in your printer I tried this and it seems to work. I don't why but it worked. I will check and see if it continues. Thought you might mention it in your next e step calibration video. Keep up the good work I check back often.

[@ToyDestroyerYT]

2 years later and still out here saving lives. Thanks for making this vid!

[@realtoy1]

Not sure if I said it before, but this is the BEST video on KZbin for properly adjusting the E-steps for the extruder. Thanks!

[@DabDaddy-mx2kt]

Agreed!

[@stefanschmidt5186]

finally someone making a "for dummies" tutorial with software recommendation! thank you so much!

[@MobileDecay]

That's one smart dummy. 🤔

[@BlazeInLifee]

omg! this video was amazing! a friend sent it to me and now my ender 3 is printing perfectly fine with no issues and no under extrusion

[@OutOfNamesToChoose]

Easiest guide out there by far. Only issue I had was that I needed the CH40 driver for my computer and Pronterface to recognise my printer (Ender 3 Pro with an upgraded Ender board) over USB, but that was solved with a 5min search. All in all, it took 30min, but my results seem to tell me that I shouldn't have been surprised at the fact that my prints used to underextrude. Hopefully, this will have done the trick!

[@205RC]

gotta few hundred hours on my ender 3 v2 now . it is my first printer and i feel like it will not be long that i will have to start tweeking the settings and this vid helped me better understand what ill be facing in the near future .. thank you!!!

[@ramtek2702]

If you've seen (as I have) the other KZbin videos on this topic then you know how good this video really is. Thanks very much and keep up the good (intelligible) work. One suggestion: Forget the Sharpie. Flush cut the filament before & after the 100mm extrusion where it exits the extruder. Much easier to measure. Not sure why you think it's important to actually extrude from the printhead. I wonder how many newbies have calipers. They should be one of the first tools they buy. INVALUABLE!!!

[@ModBotArmy]

I appreciate your feedback thank you and I am happy it helped.

[@darklemon1]

Great help with figuring out what the issue was after I upgraded my Bowden to direct drive, 3d printers are one of those things you never stop learning about and add knowledge to life

[@mikesbasement6954]

This is the first video/website I've found that explains a workable way to do this on a unit with a bowden tube. Thank you!

[@GoToTheGymPlz]

I still go back to this video💀🫡🫡thank you bro

[@darkstaff]

I uaed your video a couple years ago to perform this calibration and it worked perfectly. Once again, I needed it and once again, I am calibrated perfectly. Thank you!

[@MarionCravens]

Thank you. I literally needed to do this to my Ender 3 and this video helped tremendously. I did an upgrade on the extruder and changed to a silent mainboard. Its now printing like a champ.

[@shawnd567]

Voxelab was set at 93steps/mm. Changed it to 100 after this and now it prints incredible. I was having issues with some prints not sticking to the build plate. Bed was leveled with a receipt.

[@end_slayer]

Like same

[@DJProPlusMax]

So useful. Should 100% be in every beginner's tutorial to 3D printing. Thank you very much.

[@aricarmstrong9219]

Awesome thanks. I used a really expensive 3D printer at work, which made me want to buy a budget one for at-home use. I am having to overcome not being ready out of the box. lol

[@ramtek2702]

I got my reversal fixed and went through these steps. Slight glitches but nothing serious. End product is perfect. Thanks again.

[@isaiahbenitez8978]

I just wanted to say thank you for this video, helps a lot and makes the whole process a lot less scary to try at first.

[@redgamemaster]

I would like to add that after you input the corrected E-steps you should enter E500 to save your changes to the printer. I would also recomend using M303 to have your printer run a test to calibrate the hot end temp.

[@TheVampireMasquerade]

After following the steps in this video I was able to troubleshoot and determine that my extruder had gone bad. Used these steps again when I put the new extruder on and now it prints like a beauty! Thanks!

[@couchpotat]

how does an extruder "go bad"? please elaborate

[@4sineweaver2]

Changed my CR10S extruder to a direct drive dual gear. I did an EStep calibration but I was still getting little globs on my prints. Changed my ESteps from 160 to 155 and it's printing perfectly now.

[@jasongurley4188]

Perfect! Thank you SOOO much! Just installed the MicroSwiss Direct Drive Extruder on my Ender 3 V2. Once I finally got my feedrate (steps/mm) set, ALL of my issues went away. Calculating it was easy. SO much easier than trial and error. 139.5 steps/mm and my prints are silky smooth and adhere to the bed properly. I *really* needed this! -- Ender 3 V2 MicroSwiss Direct Drive with all metal hot end kit.

[@alexcrowder1673]

You can get the microswiss clone for about 20 dollars these days. They are actually better than the original for many reasons. The only downside is the clones come with bad nozzles, but i swap those all the time anyways. I just buy big packs of cheap nozzles for 60 cents a piece. Direct drive clone kits are about 15 dollars, or free if you print it yourself. Bmg Dual gear extruder clones are only 15 bucks. For 35-50 bucks plus tax you can get a stock ender printing REALLY well in just about any material except super exotic stuff like peek. The gear ratio on the BMG clone is actually about 4 even though it says 3. My esteps are set to 400 on the nose. The torque on it is hilarious. It just forces clogs through the nozzle. It can print waaaaaaay faster than the stock extruder too. I print with nylon at 70+mm/s on my ender 3 all day every day. Also, amazon has upgraded heater cartridges for like 6 bucks for a 10 pack. They heat up about twice as fast as stock and even if you break a few youve got a 10 pack. Its perfect for overtures nylon because nozzle temp is all that matters with that stuff. Overture nylon doesnt even need a chamber or even a heated bed at all. It prints just as easily as PLA if you use the purple elmers gluesticks. The ONLY thing it struggles with is overhangs and taking off supports. Supports will bond to it if they arent taken off almost immediately.

[@ZXXpilot]

@@alexcrowder1673 Haven't seen the microswiss clones. Where's a good place to get one?

[@geoandy]

Have been having these really odd issues for months now and couldn't pinpoint the issues and I believe it was due to various recommended updates which no one mentions could cause under extrusion. Updates / changes I did, replaced the plastic extruder bracket with all metal and replaced the original Bowden tube with Capricorn tubing. The issues were small at first, bed adhesion, first layer issues, etc.. and still had successful prints, just not satisfied with the results. however when printing with PLA+ and Shiny PLA there were tons of issues. I spent countless days screwing around with the bed, ensuring level z axis and even reassembled the E3 pro, bought CR Touch and new mainboard but it never occurred to me that the updates to the tubing and bracket were causing this temporary under extrusion. Finally I got into teaching techs calibration guide (Should have been my first step in troubleshooting). After following this video in calibrating my e-steps I am finally seeing better results. Thank you for putting this together, I can now have confidence in my printing abilities again. - Finally!!!

[@JacksonRay2]

Thanks my ender 3 had a lot of the problems you were talking about so I did this and It extruded just about the right about of filament just 1mm over!

[@johnkoutromanos2270]

Thanks mate. Really helpful for novice users like me. One thing I noticed though. On your recommendation the extrusion command has a flow of 100mm per minute (F100). With this command I dad some hard time to have accurate measurements (Bowden extruder and PLA temperature on 210 on an Ender 3 V2 -with metal extruder). I had better and more accurate results when I dropped the flow to 50mm per sec (G E100 F50).

[@makedaevilmage]

Thanks for the vid. I had a hunch my printer is under extruding, gonna try this out in the morning. Thanks again for the tutorial :D

[@WisdomAndWhisk]

Thanks. I literally just got the same MicroSwiss direct drive you have and this is exactly the info I needed. This helps me so much.

[@jcfpv3454]

Cant believe you dont have millions of subscribers thanks for the great video I am watching

[@pattygq]

Worked like a charm on my Ender 3 Pro with the stock extruder setup. Thanks! Edit: Worked again for the MicroSwiss DD for Ender 3 Pro (obv I see now you're using the same thing 😊).

[@JayquanDeMarcusWashington]

I dont smoke weed... but I ate an edible the first time I watched this.. and when he said "use editing to quickly get to temperature" my dumbass googled "editing for faster temperatures" like 5 seconds before I realized the joke.

[@DIMARADOVEDITZ]

XD

[@ShannonSmith-clt]

Thank you so much for taking the time to share this. This fixed a big issue I've been having after upgrading a motherboard.

[@cripplesoldier]

this saved me out of the blue i had under extrusion issues go crazy i tried getting an upgraded extruder new bowden tube i was like surly the calibration cant be off....it was off 10% which makes a big difference!

[@labpartners3490]

Thank you so much. Omg you don't even know how much stress this just saved me. The other video I was watching had a little tiny mistake and I could not figure out the problem for weeks. THANK YOU

[@3DprintRC]

Perfect explenation. I am using creality community firmware 6.1 and your path is works. I found 20.25mm after final calculate like yours measurement. 👌

[@Issalzul]

Thank you so much, I had no idea how to calibrate esteps and this showed me exactly what to do Extremely helpful!

[@dougbebensee8796]

I really appreciated your very clear and detailed tutorials. This one is one of the best on this subject. It might be a good idea to show how this can also done right from the printer control panel for those beginners (like me) who don't want to deal the extra complexity of Pronterface at this time.

[@highdesertfishing4615]

It cant.

[@Eddy363636]

@@highdesertfishing4615 yes, it can be done without installing any program, just using the printer

[@highdesertfishing4615]

@@Eddy363636 not on a stock ender 3, which is what the video is for. On other printers, like the V2 with the better screen and firmware it can. But that's not what this video is for.

[@sebastiangeorger5791]

@@highdesertfishing4615 You can literally move axis from the LCD. I have an Ender 3

[@simply_based]

@@highdesertfishing4615 I've an ender 3 pro, acquired December 2020. It is fully capable of adjusting E-steps.

[@AaronZaffle]

perfect video easy to follow. Our numbers were pretty much the same 93. then i was off by 66.3. new number 140.3 dialed in perfect now great video thanks!

[@TOMA21207]

Thank you so much, this is perfect, mine was 10.2mm under-extruding (from factory) and with your advice I managed to get it in about .2mm accurate so huge change. Keep up good work.

[@-AT-WALKER]

Using the bottom of the calipers is a brilliant wee tip👍

[@CI_Videos]

Thank you so much for the video. This has made a nice difference on my Ender 3 V1 with All metal hot end and all metal extruder gears.

[@DabDaddy-mx2kt]

Earned my sub! I recently upgraded to the Micro Swiss direct drive extruder on my Ender 3... hopefully I can get this sorted. Now, I just need to find an STL or cad file for a bracket for my Geeetech 3D Touch(BL Touch knock-off) that will mount properly with this new extruder as well! Thx! Great video! (so tired of manually leveling this thing)

[@vernrandall8470]

Following you lesson but when I enter M500 I get a echco no eeprom message. I tried several time but message repeats. Any knowledge of this?

[@slawomirklucznik7940]

Very nicely executed. A++ very detailed and hands on rather than talking about it like others i have seen. CHEERS brother. Keep up the good work

[@MrVote4p]

Great video. Please don't ever take it down!! Thank you

[@shahabkhademi4291]

you video value to me is gold , you have solved my issue with very good baby steps , thankssssss

[@gail81B]

Thank you sooooo much!!! Finally I have been able to sort out the problems on my ender 3 pro it was massively under extruding!! Your video is spot on I can now finally get on with my printing!! Thank you!!

[@odie4207]

Thank you I am .4mm off my calibration cube and need to be like less then .1 off for my prints and this is a perfect help thank you

[@theo10008]

You can also calculate and set them on the printer menu (at least on the pro model), basicaly eliminating the need for any aditional software ;). Very informative video, keep up the good work

[@mats.3389]

Super helpful. only recommendation is to explain pronterface to people bad with software like me. Had to watch some other videos to get the connection right to my printer. Hopefully setting the E steps will help the massive oozing and stringing problems I've been having (maybe also adjusting the retraction settings better too). Thanks, great stuff!

[@randombird404]

Thanks, i just did what you told me to do and it worked. on my ender 3 the Esteps are also 93 so creality must have made that a default setting from the factory.

[@bobf3598]

Instead of fighting with the digital vernier calipers to measure the filament, i just printed a long narrow piece of plastic 120mm with a valley deep enough for the filament to sit in and just straighten the filament so it sits in the valley, and at the end of it, just use a narrow tipped sharpie. Takes 5 seconds or less!

[@molotovgod]

@6:57 don't forget to bring your nozzle to temperature after a printer reset

[@itsjustmark]

You can also run all these commands in the terminal section of octoprint. Great video thank you.

[@Nomadman4life]

This was the best video out there for steps per mm. Very well done . Thanks so much I now know how to do this 👍

[@bmorlok84]

AWESOME VIDEO!!! Ive had my printer for a while now, upgraded the main board, but never updated firmware or anything as that is a new area for me, but after following your video and calibrating my new micro swiss extruder I feel I can do the other things I've been intimidated by!!

[@therealdigbaddy72]

This just saved me a TON of headache! Thanks so much for this video! btw I am only 3 weeks old 3D printing

[@kaedeschulz5422]

Thanks a lot! My Super racer didn't respond to the computer inputs i thankfully was able to enter the codes on it's control screen.

[@jacnnicbigred3204]

I'm new to all this and just upgraded my extruder as you did. I downloaded the pronterface and installed it. Connected it and started following your lead. When I put the M503 command and all I get is "SENDING:M503 - ok N:0" nothing else. What am I doing wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[@andyspoo2]

You haven't got 'EEPROM features enabled' in your firmware. If your using Marlin firmware, check out here = github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L521 It needs to be enabled for M500, M501 and M502 commands to work.

[@yony120]

@@andyspoo2 Does this work with normal Ender 3 Pro firmware?

[@andyspoo2]

@@yony120 I don't believe so. It's a Marlin feature

[@yony120]

@@andyspoo2 I was able to modify the esteps within the Ender 3 menu, plus I've added a line to the start gcode on Cura.

[@omarnavarro9690]

@@yony120 how! Hahah help me

[@DrDavenstein]

Hi. Great video man! Helped me tremendously! Thank you for the awesome content! Just a friendly heads up in your description... "It is not very difficult to calibrate your extruder and I am 'hear' to guide you through it."

[@shtrier]

really useful video mate! :D thank you so much, I was massively under extruding!

[@madnigerian]

I thought this was going to be painful. Now I'm going to do this to all my printers

[@Twin_Flyer]

Thanks!! Mine was under extruding but it seems to have a problem with the filament skipping in the extruder, something seems to be causing a jam about 3/4 of the way through the test. The tubing is all new as well as the tip. Will have to take it apart and see whats up in there. It was printing OK, but i could hear the extruder click now and then so that wasn't unexpected.

[@williambilse]

Some people say you need to change the settings in your slicer software as well. In my opinion this just offsets the change you made in the printer. What are your thoughts?

[@tanega]

Oh Man, this help my prints look so much better now! Thank you for doing this. Thank you for making the Math part easier. Awesome!

[@3boodPhotography]

Perfect explanation and I got it perfectky now to test it out.

[@charlesw.3245]

Thank you so much for this video. I just got a JGMaker Artist-D IDEX printer and it has been a stinking pile of ____! Absolutely the worst prints i've ever made. The bed was physically loose and the eccentric nuts weren't enough to fully tighten it (fixed). The extruders out box are under extruding by 13.5mm (fixed now). O, and the 5 point bed leveling system with the center point being non adjustable is the worst idea EVER! I have a cr10 heated bed to swap onto it this weekend, and extra BL touch, and mesh leveling enabled in an experimental firmware from github.... well see if this all makes it the printer it should be! thanks again.

[@Oldman-Havok]

for some reason pronterface wont connect o my printer. im currently running Marlin 2.0 bugfix. any help with this?

[@oliverstannard2103]

Thank you so so so much, just fitted a dual extruder which was missing steps and was making weird lines like shown in your video. Again thank you for your help!

[@simply_based]

I had to do this again and forgot the formula, thanks again!

[@mikesbasement6954]

Would love to see a video on how to calibrate the flow rate. Thanks!

[@dragec314]

Why are you substracing from 120 when you sent 100mm to be extruded?

[@shadowjack1214]

it can be extrruded more then 100 or less then 100. if extruded more and you mark 100 you cant see you mark

[@kevg4743]

@@shadowjack1214 That's what he did but it's not right. He set it to extrude 100mm so everything should be based on 100mm plus or minus. What if he measured out to 200mm and sent out 100mm? Would he calculate based on 200mm or the command distance?

[@oaomcg]

crazy useful for calibrating my new extruder. thanks for this content!

[@Vaughnboilore]

Always using this video on new builds

[@Stashmanfpv]

UGH!!! How do you center the Micro Swiss Direct Drive and Hot End to the middle of the bed on Ender 3 Pro? New to the hobby, the install was good, but the hot end and direct drive do not center to the middle of the bed...?

[@dustinmeier9753]

It's there a Y-Axis offset modification guide for the MicroSwiss Direct Drive? My Y-Axis is no longer centered, even though my slicer says it is.

[@TheRealFireTurtle75]

Are any of these estep videos done with just the onboard control panel instead of some 3rd party software?

[@jojabrock9997]

Great tutorial, however, in the new Ender 3s you don’t need software. You can see and edit e steps in the configuration advanced settings, and you can extrude through the motion, move axis settings.

[@Beating44Time]

Thank you, very well explained and did the job perfectly!

[@darkstaff]

I am grateful for this video. (And many more of your videos) Just set up a new direct drive Microswiss hotend. Nailed my E-steps!

[@ModBotArmy]

Woohoo awesome stoked to hear that 😬👍

[@isaiahbenitez8978]

When you say you restarted your printer after applying the settings, is that a manual just turning off the switch and turning back on? Or you can restart it in the software?

[@jetstream01]

Thanks so much for this video. Very easy to follow. Was having underextrusion issues on my stock ender 3 pro and this helped me to adjust it.

[@hippopotamus86]

What would be causing my over extruding? My e-steps was 93. I used this method, the new e-steps should be 107.95 (had 33.85mm left over). I've set the e steps to this new setting, so now it's over extruding even more. I have this problem with every filament, and they all are 1.75mm. My extruder stepper always jumps , I upgraded to direct drive, and now have just fitted an aluminium assembly on it. I've even swapped nozzles more than once.

[@b3dpc354]

have you checked that the slicing software you are using has the right nozzle set as having it set to a higher nozzle than it accutly is can make it over exstrude

[@hippopotamus86]

@@b3dpc354 Hi, back after 3 years as I've just gotten this printer out of storage. Correct 0.4 nozzle fitted, with 0.4 selected in Cura. I have to print at 90% flow rate all the time. It's so bizarre! I also always get stringing at any speed and any retraction. Brand new steel nozzle now too.

[@Josh_isSlow]

For me I found that trial and error worked, tried the guide and it is very easy but I was always over extruding everytime. So I choose a random number above my default and slowly got it dialed in.

[@shawnmichaelis1609]

been having bad layer lines and even tuning the PID did nothing, then i tried this and my first was 32mm a whole 12mm off of the goal of 20 xD fingers crossed this is the fix

[@MyPotat]

Will this work on an ender 5 pro? I just got a new extruder and this video is very easy to follow and I’m very new to 3d printing

[@AllAroundTube50]

Can you please reply with the link to the stl files for the filament holder you used in this video? Thanks.

[@noahgorsuch]

Absolutely fantastic advice, exactly what i was looking for.

[@joewest2351]

Finally thank you if any one gets the error 5 on pronterface turn your pc off and printer then load pronterface up leave it to run for a minute then connect your printer up and it should connect I had issues with this Nvm it doesn't save the new input 😑

[@TikiToyLabs]

my extruder is going in the opposite direction. i have a tevo tornado (CR10 knockoff) is there such a thing as setting negative steps?

[@tobiashegemann1811]

In Merlin is an option to revers the extruder. Alternatively you can reverse the motor direction by switching its wires

[@Racecar564]

I'm having some weird issues - but first off, I'd like to say: thank you for this video! Your information is clear and concise. But I still really need some help! I'm having issue where I get inconsistent results, and I've gone all the way from E103 to E189 and somehow still wind up with varied amounts of underextrusion. I notice that despite the extruder itself moving, the material is pausing and resuming for a few seconds at a time. Am I having some sort of tube jam or something? Please, someone help. Thank you in advance!

[@Racecar564]

As it turns out, it seems I answered my own question - it seems I'm having a hotend problem. When I took the tube out, I now got a big overextrusion, and setting it back to my initial 103 seems to have it where it needs to be. So I guess I've gotta unclog my hotend!

[@joninfect8681]

Thanks bud! My printer has never worked so well!!!

[@stormbytes]

Pronterface hasn't been updated in several years and the Mac version isn't compatible with current versions of Mac OS. While CURA offers a feature to send M-commands to the printer, it will not display output. However, any serial terminal emulator app can do this just fine.

[@rickyhackett6703]

That echo when you said calibrate is too relatable 😅

[@EdwinRodriguez1975]

finally the solution of my troubles ! thanks a lot ! Bless you.

[@anunknown6619]

Where do you plug the USB cable on the 3D Printer side? I just have a micro-usb port in the front. Please help someoen