How to change front suspension arm / front control arm on VW GOLF 5 (1K1) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]

How to change front suspension arm / front control arm on VW GOLF 5 (1K1) 1.6 Hatchback 10.2003-02.2009 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]
Suspension arm on AUDI A3 Hatchback (8P) (05.2003 - 08.2012) / SEAT Altea (5P, 5P1) (03.2004 - 2012) / SEAT Leon II Hatchback (1P, 1P1) (05.2005 - 12.2012) / SKODA Octavia II Hatchback (1Z3) (02.2004 - 06.2013) / VW Jetta Mk5 (1K2, 1KM) (08.2005 - 10.2010) cars should be replaced, as a rule, according to one and the same procedure.
However, there can be slight differences due to specific features of the vehicle design.
🔝 Top brands that produce suspension arm: RIDEX; STARK; FEBI BILSTEIN; LEMFÖRDER; MOOG.
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🛠️The tools you need to replace front suspension arm:
- wire brush
- WD-40 spray
- brake cleaner
- copper grease
- combination spanner No.16
- combination spanner No.18
- drive socket No.12
- drive socket No.16
- drive socket No.18
- wheel impact socket №17
- ratchet wrench
- torque wrench
- tap wrench
- crow bar
- hydraulic transmission jack
- wheel chock
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Disclaimer:
This video is intended for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result.
It is recommended that you entrust the installation to highly skilled technicians to ensure the best result.
This video only contains tips and recommendations that could be helpful when carrying out car repairs or replacing parts. AUTODOC is not liable for any harm, injury or property damage incurred while carrying out repairs or replacements, that are a result of incorrect use or misinterpretation of the provided information. This video is for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result. The user is personally liable for incorrect use of repair equipment, tools or car parts, in particular, when this use poses the risk of injury. AUTODOC strongly recommends being careful and adhering to the safety rules when doing any repair or replacement. Keep in mind that using low quality auto parts does not guarantee the proper level of road safety.
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[@autodocuk]

Attention! This video contains mistakes: 5:01 - the tightening torque is 70 Nm, not 80 Nm. 5:12 - the tightening torque is 70 Nm, not 80 Nm. 5:17 - the tightening torque is 50 Nm, not 70 Nm. 5:28 - the tightening torque is 60 Nm, not 48 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇‍♂

[@PaulJamesMuldoonGYST]

Much higher quality than previous videos. Please do Passat B6 repairs again like this.

[@Richard_L_Y]

To try to maintain / to avoid losing alignment, should you not have used T10096 subframe alignment bolts / pins? i.e. in and for the largest hole it the (each) control arm rearmost suspension bush; after removing that stretch bolt first, screw in the alignment pin, before removing the two smaller stretch bolts. Replace new part with alignment pin in place; replace two smaller bolts; tighten below torque; remove pin and replace large bolts, tightening to below torque. Then and more importantly, only while ensuring car is on the ground / on wheels (all components properly weighted) fully torque and turn the stretch bolts.

[@kevin.afton_]

You cannot torque the screws if the car is on the ground.

[@Richard_L_Y]

@@kevin.afton_ Where's your rational and evidence for that please - which could be really dangerous advice? The bolts should be tight but under torque setting before the car wheels are fully loaded on the ground or ramp. You should only finally torque these bolts with the correct loading on them (and the components) first; or it is NOT the valid torque setting you will have; you are overloading the threads (and therefore components) by then additionally having the vehicle weight added; which is also dangerous as they could fail; and you could lose alignment. This is why you usually need a ramp, ramps or pit to do these correctly. Do you also torque or try and finally tighten wheel bolts with the car wheel/s not on the ground (it's not just about the wheel not turning so you can actually final tighten the wheel bolts)?

[@kevin.afton_]

​@@Richard_L_Y What you say makes sense but it then means that we cannot repair our own cars because most of us dont have a ramp or a pit. You sound like a real professional, I would certainly service my car with you if I lived close enough. On the other hand I would dare to bet that even most of the professional mechanics dont torque their clients' cars like you say.

[@Richard_L_Y]

@@kevin.afton_ I'm not a professional mechanic but from a mechanical / trades background; this is a job I needed to get done at a garage precisely for the reasons you / we state; this could possibly be done correctly in relation to torquing using four wheel ramps (which isn't recommended or safe or as easy as it might seem either e.g. if you drive the front wheels onto two ramps you have to jack the car up (too high), if it's a car, to get the rear wheels ramped, or vice-versa, not safe at all; and there still may be incorrect alignment due to the ramps if they're not flat surfaces). You bet right on most garages and prof mechanics! The only way you can be sure is by being there and watching what they do; but they won't allow that under the 'insurance' liability get out; and CV also means many still won't let you wait to try and keep and eye on them from a distance. I'm not sure they did mine correctly but can only take their word for it; I supplied all the bushes and stretch bolts and even silicone grease for the bushes to make sure they didn't use something else!.

[@Richard_L_Y]

Also BtW I got them to adjust and fix the camber which isn't adjustable normally (A3 8P 1.9tdi) which was wearing very inside of the tyres; no wheel trackers or a couple of other mechs / garages would touch it (they all tried to tell me that was normal tyre wear and the camber wasn't 'much' out!) Used Meyle HD main bushes, a bit better than OEM, and not poly (too hard can give vibration problems); big improvement and control... on wide cornering especially (100k were on the originals).

[@erichill7560]

If the bolt doesn't move when you're torquing it, it's already too tight. Impact wrenches will do that.

[@autodocuk]

In practice, it is essential to use a torque wrench and maintain the appropriate tightening torques; impact wrenches will not be able to maintain the correct tightening torques.

[@samsonsam3523]

Beautiful WORK superbly done with all the lubricants needed all the cleaning and so on...i do my car exactly like that👍👍👍

[@autodocuk]

We are pleased to know that our video was helpful for you. Your feedback is much appreciated!

[@dabay200]

what about the other side?

[@autodocuk]

The replacement will be identical for the other side.

[@4ndy65]

Using an impact wrench on stretch bolts ALL stretch bolts should be replaced with new ones

[@autodocuk]

Thank you for your comment! In this case, there was no need to replace bolts with new ones. Best Regards, Autodoc team

[@TheSootpig]

@@autodocuk Why were the bolts not replaced?😊

[@Richard_L_Y]

@@autodocuk Why? I've never heard of that for these stretch bolts?

[@ayoubbendarkaoui5484]

Bonjour, Quelle est la meilleure marque ?merci d'avance

[@autodocuk]

Bonjour ! Merci pour votre commentaire ! Nous vous invitons à contacter notre service client par téléphone de hotline, par tchat ou par mail ([e-mail]). Donnez s’il vous plaît les informations sur votre voiture (marque/modèle, date de fabrication, cylindrée, puissance du moteur et le numéro de châssis - série E) et nous vous aiderons avec plaisir à trouver une pièce conforme à votre véhicule de meilleure qualité.

[@flemingtonteiich2377]

How to replace the front right side.

[@autodocuk]

You can check out the link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmjVpIBtZd97i8U&ab_channel=autodoc.co.uk AUTODOC

[@alexey9900]

Good 👍👍👍

[@Daedalus_UK]

Not even one impact socket.