How to change rear shock absorber on BMW E60 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]

How to change rear shock absorber on BMW 5 (E60) 2.5 Saloon 2003-2010 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]
Shock absorber on BMW 5 Touring (E61) (03.2004-12.2010) / BMW 1 Convertible (E88) (03.2008-12.2013) / BMW 3 Coupe (E92) (11.2005-12.2013) / BMW X1 (E84) (03.2009-06.2015) / BMW X3 (E83) (11.2003-12.2011) cars should be replaced, as a rule, according to one and the same procedure.
However, there can be slight differences due to specific features of the vehicle design.
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🛠️ The tools you need to replace rear shock absorber:
- required tools:
- wire brush
- wd-40 spray
- brake cleaner
- copper grease
- drive socket # 16
- drive socket # 21
- wheel impact socket #17
- ratchet wrench
- torque wrench
- shock absorber socket #dd6
- crow bar
- clip removal tool
- vice
- wheel chock
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► BMW 5 (E60) car repair tutorial - • BMW 5 (E60) car repair...
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► How to replace a front shock strut on BMW E60 - • How to change a front ...
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Disclaimer:
This video is intended for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result.
It is recommended that you entrust the installation to highly skilled technicians to ensure the best result.
This video is intended for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result. It is recommended that you entrust the installation to highly skilled technicians to ensure the best result. This video only contains tips and recommendations that could be helpful when carrying out car repairs or replacing parts. AUTODOC is not liable for any harm, injury or property damage incurred while carrying out repairs or replacements that are a result of incorrect use or misinterpretation of the provided information. The user is personally liable for incorrect use of repair equipment, tools, or car parts, in particular when this use poses the risk of injury. AUTODOC strongly recommends taking appropriate safety precautions when carrying out any repair or replacement. Keep in mind that low-quality auto parts may not provide the appropriate level of road safety.
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[@autodocuk]

Attention! This video contains mistakes: 06:48 - the tightening torque is 27 Nm, not 55 Nm. 08:38 - the tightening torque is 165 Nm, not 72 Nm. 08:45 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 80 Nm. 08:51 - the tightening torque is 100 Nm, not 75 Nm. 09:37 - the tightening torque is 110 Nm, not 75 Nm. 10:43 - the tightening torque is 28 Nm, not 38 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇‍♂

[@gideonbouwman4904]

7:47 nice cross-threading mate :D

[@autodocuk]

Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!

[@Rich.Wilkin]

Very well put together video hood work

[@iconicars3050]

Amazing diy

[@andresburgos5802]

I lake it. Very good

[@alexey9900]

Good 👍👍👍

[@juliusboy001]

What is the real time? Approx?? Please!

[@boumou3475]

👍 👍 👍 Thx

[@Obelix516]

What sort of extension did you use to take off the bottom bolt from the brake caliper bracket?

[@autodocuk]

We used the 1005S-7 HAZET

[@lewis72]

7:42 How did you get the lower strut to be the same height as the knuckle ? My knuckle is much higher in its free position. I have to stand on it to get it to lower to the right position but then I am unable to get the bolt in.

[@autodocuk]

It is not possible to answer your question, you can find this information in the technical documentation for the repair of your car or we recommend consulting with your mechanic.

[@lewis72]

@@autodocuk I've since attached the lower strut to the knuckle. It required me pushing down hard on the knuckle to get the holes to align. When the lower control arm is installed, the bushes' torsional stiffness give it a no-load position, which should, presumably, be about the vehicle's static ride height.

[@Wso_live]

Was the arms broken or it’s just good practice to change them too ?

[@autodocuk]

Yes, in this case, there was a need to replace not only the shock absorbers but also the levers, they also failed.

[@Wso_live]

@@autodocuk thanks,ordered all four of them just in case 👍🏻

[@Vaniskovce]

You don’t have to disassemble that much. Just take out the druk insert.

[@The_North0]

Right

[@lewis72]

What is worth emphasising, as it was a mistake that I made, is the the orientation of the top plate has to be correct when reassembling the the strut as, unlike with the front strut, you can not rotate it once it's assembled.

[@autodocuk]

We are sure that your comment will be useful for many of our viewers.

[@The_North0]

What happend if reassembled in the incorrect orientation?

[@lewis72]

@@The_North0 You can't get a bolt through the bottom hole of the strut to bolt into the knuckle, as it points the bolt away from the knuckle hole... as I found out last year. The front strut can be rotated on the top mount bearing to fit. The rear can't.

[@The_North0]

@@lewis72 interesting. I didn’t know that. I replaced all my struts four years ago and I wasn’t aware of that.

[@lewis72]

@@The_North0 You can't rotate the bottom of the strut to align the bolt hole to the knuckle bolt hole. As the interface between the strut top and the body is held by 3 bolts, you can have it at 0, 120, 240 degrees.

[@user-su4sl7gm1v]

Ребят, сделайте видос о замене узлов, расходников на спринтере с мотором OM642. Очень многие оценят!

[@autodocuk]

Мы учтём ваше пожелание. Следите за нашими обновлениями!

[@jerrellnelson8167]

My shock didnt drop out of the tower. That's where I got stuck. Shi...still stuck.

[@antoniocantillano7970]

I think. He removed. No necessary components...but was fine

[@autodocuk]

Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!