How to check ABS codes on 96-2002 Tacoma

[@MrDrivesafe]

Very helpful. Really appreciate your time for showing us

[@socallawnguy2486]

Stumbled on this video and realized I own this truck now. Great vid 👍🏽

[@paulkelley86]

That could be true. Such a weird issue.

[@zootsuit2231]

Great video, thanks for posting. Does the ABS indication need to be on to diagnose the ABS system as shown? My ABS dashboard indication is intermittent so I'm wondering if this method will work when the lamp is not illuminated. Thanks again.

[@paulkelley86]

If there is a code set, this will retrieve it even if the light is not currently illuminated.

[@zootsuit2231]

@@paulkelley86 Great, thanks for the info.

[@L35inColorado]

Thank you so much for posting this!

[@raysteele7701]

Great information. Thanks!!

[@Sal-rh6mk]

Would using a a break out box make easier to probe the Dlc connectors?

[@alexpage8965]

Hi! I was hoping you might be able to tell me if techstream can do an “ABS Bleed”. On an 04 Tacoma? For the life of me I cannot get rid of a sinking/spongy brake pedal…. MC, booster both are good for sure, new soft brake lines, calipers, wheel cylinders, rotors, pads, drums, shoes. Rear brakes adjusted. No leaks in the system anywhere. Only possible explanation is either a faulty AbS Module, which no codes for abs, or there is air trapped in the ABS module. I have bled almost 2 gallons of brake fluid through this thing. Old fashion way both off and engine on, also used a pressure bleeder. Get nice strong clean streams from every bleed port including the LSPV. I’m at my whits end here…

[@paulkelley86]

From what I recall there is no tech stream bi directional communication on that year ABS. Basically the techstream can just jumper the same pins as this video and flash codes. I don't think the techstream can even pull codes. Tell me more. What started the spongy pedal? A bleed gone wrong or it just happened with no apparent cause? I am leaning more toward an internal leak in your master cylinder. You could get plugs and undo the lines at the master and put the plugs in, quick bleed right at the plugs and if your pedal firms up, there is air in the lines. If your pedal is still mushy, it's internal seal failure and or pitting in the master cylinder. Happens a lot. Worst case go to the junkyard and undo those 2 fittings at the master cylinder plus a few inches of the line. Then crush the lines on itself folding it over and over in a vice to seal it. Home made plugs.

[@alexpage8965]

To be honest I’m not quite sure when it started, as the truck originally belonged to my father. I believe that it started when I replaced the original MC. It had leaked into the booster and I ended up having to replace that too. I have 100% confirmed that the current master cylinder is not leaking at all. I swapped the OEM MC from my cousins truck with the one I have in mine and his brakes worked fine after a quick bleed. My truck had same issue with functioning OEM MC. I had just rebuilt his MC a month or two ago… wish I knew about that back when I needed to replace mine.

[@alexpage8965]

So MC tested good, brake booster passes all the FSM tests, I pretty much rebuilt the entire brake system front and back…. No visible leaks and reservoir indicates no leaking…. The brakes stop the truck ok, but the pedal is squishy as hell and if I hold it down it will sink almost to the floor, but it does stop before the floor. All signs point to a MC leaking internally, but I have verified that the MC is good and tried 2x different good MCs with same results. Rear brakes are adjusted properly…. I’m stumped at this point.

[@alexpage8965]

There are no ABS codes and I tried the shade tree method of bleeding the abs while it was raining… I drove around late and did some panic stops from about 30mph and I was able to get the abs to kick on 8-10 times. I then pressure bled the system again and this seemed to help just ever so slightly but I’m not sure about that. The truck did stop better after that though. I have read about abs systems with a bypass valve that can get stuck open and it will allow the fluid to cycle back to the MC, but I don’t understand how that would cause a mushy pedal because the system would be closed. I am really close to just deleting the ABS from the truck and ripping out the LSPV for a manually adjusted proportioning valve… that is how drastic my endeavors to fix the brake pedal are.

[@paulkelley86]

@@alexpage8965 I understand, but you really need to check your master cylinder. Internally leaking master and air in the lines have the same feel.

[@miguelortiz391]

Hi I seen your video it is great information I was wondering if you can help me out with mine have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma and I did exactly what you did on yours I got code 31-32-33-34-& 51 what do you think it is I check the wiring system underneath the truck looked at every sensor checked the fuse and also disconnected the wire plug from the pump only one thing that I noticed that has happened took my truck to the car wash on the way back the light went off stood off for a little while and then came back on this is driving crazy can you help

[@albertocastillo5286]

Great video! Could it be possible to share that documents? I have a 31 & 49 codes on my 2003 tacoma double cab

[@chrisbranco9866]

Hello I have a 2003 tacoma base. the light comes on and stays on every 4 or 5 starts daily. Does this method work on a 2003?

[@worldatlaschannel]

Hello, I own a 2004 tacoma 90,000 miles. I have the abs lights on and off every now and then. Something is failing due to age or my naive non-tech guess is just dirty sensors haha I solved a couple codes with just cleaning sensors. Seems to be working for me so far. This might not be the case. Do you know if and how can I read the abs codes? Do I have to jump the pins or can I just check them with my obd2 scanner. I have the ANCER AD410 scanner. Haven't tried it yet, just looking for a more informed opinion before trying it or what to look for

[@paulkelley86]

Those are much nicer to diagnose since the scan tool can show live data. You should be able to pull codes and check actual sensor mph readings with a good scan tool. No need to jump terminals.

[@SM-ut6vb]

I found this video shared on a forum and used it to pull the code on my '02. The ABS light came on one day right after start up and has been on for several years since. The one code it has is 51, "pump motor is locked", "open in pump motor ground". Any advice on the what the next step should be in this case?

[@andresadoff6762]

People on the TacomaWorld forum are asserting this only works on 2002-04 Tacomas. I'm apprehensive to put a jumper in my OBD2 port lol, can you confirm this will work on my 2000 Tacoma by chance please? Thank you

[@paulkelley86]

Have not gotten back on TIS yet but from what I remember, this was the original way to check codes. I don't remember any way of doing it before this... I am pretty sure this is the way for your truck. Maybe start by seeing if your truck has actual terminals in those locations, if it does, that is what they are there for, and 16 pin obd2 connectors are standardized.

[@brianworley7705]

@@paulkelley86 The 98 and at least 99 don't have pin 13 populated in the DLC under the dash. You have to go to E1 and Tc on the diagnosis connector on the driver's side of the intake plenum on the engine. Black rectangular connector mounted on the end. I have been able to read the codes, just not able to reset after working to resolve a code 51. Still may have the 32 and 44, but one step at a time I hope.

[@burtpilon1735]

Nice video ! How do you like that Mongoose? I was thinking about getting it for my 03 Tacoma 250,000 miles and still running like a champ of course. The Verus Edge is very limited.

[@paulkelley86]

It is the same as having the toyota techstream factory scan tool. I would do it if you work on toyota regularly. Figure about $500 for the latest one that is wireless, it's a good deal.

[@gionandrivenditto8618]

I have a 1998 Canadian runner, the abs light is fixed on, every scanner that is placed even from a toyota does not enter the abs sensor, it says malfunction and the technician says that it is disconnected, what could be the problem area???????????

[@n_b_g_stick3020]

I know this video is old but can i use a paper clip for the same thing or does it have to be a wire

[@paulkelley86]

Paper clip will work fine just be careful not to spread the female terminals out with the fat paper clip

[@NievesPoncho]

Would this work on 2000 4runner

[@fredko3001]

Do the same steps apply to a 2002 4Runner?

[@paulkelley86]

99% sure yes

[@bell9620]

I have a 2002 4Runner Limited 2WD 6cy and the correct connections on the diagnostic box is Tc to E1 with a paper clip. Then I watch for the correct pattern of blinks indicating which sensor is at fault, if any. The sensor codes are 31- right front sensor. 32- left from sensor. 33-right rear sensor. And 34-left rear sensor. This is with my 5vz 6cy engine from the Toyota Manual. My black diagnostic box is located in the engine compartment across from fuse box. Hope this helps everyone.

[@djrodriguez6582]

​@@bell9620 happen to know if this is the same procedure for a 99 4runner?

[@gregwhitcher4312]

Thank you!!

[@nhill.2002]

Is it possible to reset codes even if you didn’t fix the issue?

[@paulkelley86]

Sure, but it will re-run the on board test once you go over a few mph and reset if it is not fixed.

[@nhill.2002]

Paul Kelley I’m expecting that at least 2 of my 3 codes will come back after, I threw a 51 code which is abs module is bad which on identafix says can be caused by engine codes, which I threw recently. I just want to check and confirm that that code goes out so I can go about fixing the 32 and the 44 which I believe is front left speed sensor.

[@nhill.2002]

Paul Kelley How do you go about resetting it without fixing it? I tried the pedal stomp but no luck, cant find how to do it anywhere else.

[@miguelortiz391]

Hey brother I did everything even placing the module and pump I’m still getting codes 31, 32,34 and 44. I clean the contacts even replaced some speed sensors. I don’t know what else to do can you help me?

[@paulkelley86]

I ended getting beat up on this one too. I went as far as getting an oscilloscope and checking the waveforms from all sensors which checked out good. At that moment I was able to verify good sensors, good reluctor wheels, good air gaps, good wiring all the way to the module since I was measuring right at the module.... I diagnosed as internal opens in the module circuit board. Last I heard the owner put a junkyard module in with the same result. It's kind of crazy to think the replacement module had the identical issue... To be honest I don't really have assistance for you. This was an Era of difficult ABS diagnosis since the scan tool is useless other than checking and clearing codes. I wished it it was newer where I could communicate with the module and watch the wheel speed sensor data live but did not have that capability. I am pretty well connected with toyota and a corporate service guy vaguely remembered these issues and believes that's why they went with a different vendor to produce their ABS systems which soon after integrated with the network so we could diagnose better. I was thinking about it and the only other thing that came to mind was to verify no AC voltage ripple from the alternator (diodes) but beyond that, I followed the manufacturer diagnosis chart to a dead end.

[@jcantavella]

What is that software on your laptop? How can I get it? Thank you

[@paulkelley86]

It's toyota techstream. The manufacturer scan tool program. Techs at the dealer get it free. You can purchase a mongoose cable and get techstream lite program with it right from toyota for like $550.

[@jcantavella]

@@paulkelley86 thank you for the super fast response. Can you recommend a good maintenance manual for a 2002 Tacoma?

[@paulkelley86]

@@jcantavella I use the toyota OEM service information. They did make the hard copy paper manual back then. I bet you could find one. Look for factory service manual online.

[@froggamer4884]

Where do you get a tool to jump the ports?

[@paulkelley86]

You could use a 6 inch long wire, strip the ends and probe right in the terminals. Just make sure your wires are small enough to just touch, not spread out the female terminals in the connector.

[@David-qw2iv]

So this doesn’t work the 2003,2004? Confused

[@paulkelley86]

Those have ABS module on the communication network so you can retrieve DTC's with a scan tool. More like every 96 and up OBD2 engine control module. But the scan tool needs to communicate with ABS specifically not just powertrain.

[@nicolejohnlachica9778]

abs relay is not in the fuse box.its in the abs module.

[@chriswhite6513]

What if the abs light does not flash

[@paulkelley86]

When you turn the key on, all of your lights should come on briefly for a "bulb check", if the abs never comes on, it may have a bad bulb. If it does come on, recheck your setup and note if it is newer than 2002 this may not work, a scan tool would be used.

[@nickcraig2417]

Link to page u were on

[@paulkelley86]

Unfortunately I cant give it to you, that was through my login portal. If a second person logs in, it kicks me out. It is for Toyota dealer techs.

[@roberthendricks9078]

My 2002 tacoma does not have a wire in # 13. What do I do now?

[@paulkelley86]

Hmm. And the truck as an ABS warning light on?

[@roberthendricks9078]

Yes. The OBD only has pins in 4,5, and 16. No other wires are in OBD. There is a diagnostic port in engine compartment, affixed to intake manifold.

[@roberthendricks9078]

It’s a 2001 tacoma crew cab 4WD.

[@roberthendricks9078]

E1 and TC on diagnostics plug in engine on 2001 and down models.

[@paulkelley86]

@@roberthendricks9078 Ok good to know you figured it out. You beat me to it, I was going to look it up for you :-) good luck with the troubleshooting!

[@22kpar1xcyberdyne9]

Video a little too long, repetitive and you never followed up with a fix on your tacoma. I am on an avalon, same situation, manually check every component to find any faults on an erratic dash abs light.