How to check for air in fuel lines on a Ford 6.9 & 7.3 IDI Diesel

This is a simple & cheap method to check for air leaks in your fuel system. Each fuel injector has a return line cap that is attached with 2 o-rings, and over time these can either leak fuel or suck air....both will cause your truck to run very rough.
This same method can be used on 6.9 & 7.3 IDI trucks/vans.
The parts you will need are only 2 different sizes of standard clear vinyl tubing from your nearest hardware store. The sizes are :
7/16" OD x 5/16 ID --- approx 2 feet
3/8" OD x 1/4 ID --- approx 3 feet
If you have any questions, please let me know!
Thanks

[@scottc3165]

Ten years later and it's still helping people. Thanks! It's a great idea...

[@RealToolReviews]

Yes, I had done pretty much everything fuel system related up to this video. I actually cured the rough idling problem about one month afterwards by adjusting the injection pump timing. It took about 30 minutes & fixed all my issues. I will be making a follow-up video shortly to show everyone the change. Thanks for your suggestion though, that is a common problem with these.

[@peterdanniels2310]

A couple of years ago, my '93 7.3 IDIT was blowing so much black smoke that people were yelling at me as I drove by. I'm a carpenter & was too busy to look for the cause myself & thought it was something deep (expensive). Pretty soon, I was pulled over and given an 'inspection order', meaning a shop with a certified inspector on staff had to deem it roadworthy. I thought, hey, it's just a work truck! A former Ford diesel mechanic asked me to let him have a look & charged me 40 bucks to adjust the I.P. timing. This cleared up the exhaust problem but I still had to have a road up series of fixes to get my inspection sticker. About $3k later, I had an inspection sticker and everything working well. No regrets on how that went...spending the cash brought it back to where I just take better care of it.

[@RealToolReviews]

Oh yeah, definitely..its best to do this "test" with two full tanks of fuel. In my truck the front tank's pickup tube is broken off at the 1/4 tank level & will stall out if it gets that low. My fuel selector also allows the rear tank's lines to drain back & empty out when off. The o-rings on every return fitting attached to the injectors are the #1 source of air leaks on 6.9 & 7.3 IDI trucks, so this is the simplest test I could come up with. Thanks for pointing out another source of leaks!

[@weastfab2311]

How do you test if the fuel selector is allowing drain back? I think mine may be doing this because my truck runs great, but every morning I pretty much have to re prime it, however after I get it started in the morning, I usually have no starting problems for a couple hours after shutoff

[@dntwnbro]

Thank You for taking your time to help us. Your pickup is the exact same year and color as mine along with being a supercab with real close to the same mileage! The only thing that is different is mine is just a plain 7.3 liter. All of a sudden fuel prices came down a while back so I put the charger on my pickup and headed to the fuel pump. Filled up both tanks and drove it home. The next day I started it up and it was missing and blowing a lot of blue smoke. (Not so bad on idle but very bad when revving it up. I wasn't sure if I got bad fuel or what so I took it to a diesel guru and he told me the same thing about adding 2 cycle motor oil. He didn't tell me how much to put in so I just split one of the small lawn mower bottles (4 oz.) and added to each tank. Needless to say that was NOT enough so I will be going to Wally World to pull out the bigboy. I also bought a new fuel filter since it had been so long since I had changed it. (Shame on me). I hardly ever drive my Ford since the fuel prices went up but when I need it I want it to run and run good. One of the comments was to add "911 fuel conditioner". I plan on reading up about that but for sure I want to add about 6 more ounces of 2 cycle per tank. After I get those steps taken care of and it doesn't stop smoking and missing I may have to change the timing slightly and put the plastic lines on to test for air leaks. I don't think it is air leaks since it didn't start with the problems until I filled up with the @$#%! fuel they sell now. Thanks again and I plan on coming back to let everyone know how it goes.

[@stevenmchenry9276]

Real tools that is a great video. My truck has been sitting for 5 years. I'm praying I can get it running 1 day. Please keep putting out content.

[@RealToolReviews]

I loosened the IP pump and rotated it counter clockwise by the thickness of a dime (towards the passenger side) and retightened. Fixed my issue instantly.

[@RealToolReviews]

The lines that are clear are the return lines & the intake line. They are very low pressure (under 10 psi), the only high pressure portion of the fuel system is located between the injection pump & the injectors (metal lines). Normally the return lines are rubber, but since a very common issue is air leaking INTO the system, you cannot know for sure unless you can visually inspect it. Hope I helped! Thanks!

[@solarpoweredboat]

Thanks for the video - logical, understandable, well presented (even for old shade tree mechanic). Been struggling with rough run, then die, then call buddy, then tow home.... for a week. Should have started with air leak - thanks.

[@joshuadelhanos8926]

Thanks for the detailed info about which clear hose represents which portion of the injection system. Getting this fuel system bullet-proof is becoming a complicated process. Breaking down on the side of the road and being towed to a shop is rapidly becoming a "new truck" payment. But if the truck can fix and run properly for a few weeks with a sudden fail, means to me it is just a matter of time until all the leak issues are found and fixed. Thanks for the help.

[@TheTexasCoder]

Steller video man! Thanks for posting this! I wish I could help you, but my diesel knowledge is EXTREMELY limited :) I am looking forward to the follow up videos as you diagnose this issue and get it fixed!

[@codyg3191]

Thank you for these tips.

[@martinbrown3816]

Thank you for the helpful video 😊

[@harlantillman7947]

thanks for the time you put into this. Now to go see if it helps me?

[@MrSeanswan]

Did it help?

[@stevenmchenry9276]

Keep the videos coming

[@munklikescheese9507]

Awesome info, thx!

[@altpotus6913]

Great, thanks. Will try this, as mine behaves exactly the same.

[@RealToolReviews]

I ended up doing two things that fixed it. 1. Loosened all the IP bolts and rotated it counterclockwise (top towards passenger side) by the thickness of a dime & retightened. 2. Started adding 16oz of regular 2-cycle engine oil to the diesel fuel each fill up. Ultra low sulfur diesel has no lubrication for old diesels……2-cycle oil cures this. Anyway…..mpg went from 10 to 17 afterwards & almost no smoke….. Plus smooth idle. Good luck!

[@tpvalley]

yup, transparent pipes r a good idea, although if the pickup in the tank is blocked a little u get cavitation bubbles which is confusing if u replace all pipes and filter and still get what u think is air leaking!

[@jesjox]

thank you so much for posting this. just saved myself a new set of injectors and IP. turned out to be air intrusion from a loose hose clamp on the line into the fuel filter.

[@RealToolReviews]

jesjox Thanks! I am glad I could help :) Also, fyi the ultra-low sulfur diesel that you are putting in the tanks offers basically no lubrication for the IP.....you really should be adding some plain 2-cycle oil to each tank when you fill up (8 oz per tank....aka half quart per fill-up). You can get 1 gallon jugs at walmart for $12 or so (blue bottle) & it will make the truck run a lot smoother & its much better for the IP & injectors. Thanks for commenting!

[@billrogers6346]

+Real Tool Reviews plz get back to me I need your help [e-mail]

[@rhondakendrick2563]

THANK U FOR INFO😀

[@zachondo4785]

Bro thank you so much my 7.3 idi non turbo is doing this my injector cap is wet. Ima newb to diesel

[@tpvalley]

I had an old ford 1.8td with a lucas pump, air leak, all pipes replaced, new pickup in tank....seals on pump shaft were sucking in air it turned out in the end; it was cheaper to have an uprated pump done than a standard rebuild but I ended up scrapping the car as it was only worth £300, cost for pump was about £350-£450!

[@MrUbiquitousTech]

Thanks for the tips! Ever get that idle problem resolved? Nice truck BTW!

[@jamesmurphy5791]

you might check your cold start idle valve .i know when i start mine it idles high around 1000rpm after it warms up the dashpottype of solonoid at the throttle disengages and drops the idle to 700 rpm .i just didnt know if your engine was warmed up or not before u started it

[@gro206]

bleed the air from the injectors with the motor running. start it and loosen the hard lines off the injectors until only fuel comes out. if you replaced the injectors/o-rings/return lines odds are theres still air in the hard lines or in the return lines themselves if you didnt manually purge the system. also check the hard line connections at the fuel pump while its running for fuel leaks that also turn into sitting air leaks. hope this helps and saves you some money! I like the clear hose idea too

[@gro206]

bleed each injector individually and close the one youre on before moving on this helps the air bleed through the system with the changing pressures and bleeding

[@RealToolReviews]

kenny Groff The rough idling on this truck ended up being the injection pump timing. I rotated the pump to the left by the thickness of a dime & it fixed everything....fuel mileage went from 8mpg to 16mpg.....no more rough idling & no more smoke. Thanks for the suggestions though! A few other places air will leak in are the intake tubes inside the tanks (they break off), the fuel selector valve, and the fuel pump itself.

[@gro206]

dmcguinn1 No problem, 16mpg is fantastic, the timing adjustment would have been my next suggestion other than to clean up the air filter

[@RealToolReviews]

kenny Groff The one other thing that I would suggest that anyone with an older diesel truck should do, is add regular 2-cycle oil to EVERY tank of fuel (0.5 - 1.0 ounce per gallon)....it will lubricate your IP & make your truck run much better. No smoke...and 1 gallon costs $12 at wal-mart. The new ultra-low sulfur diesel does NOT lubricate the older diesel engines & they were not designed to run on it.

[@MrSeanswan]

@@RealToolReviews hey im having the same exact issue with the rough idle and excessive smoke. Did it really clear up after adjusting the timing on the Ip was it hard to do?

[@robinbaronsky4435]

Hello ford lovers or those just stuck with a 7.3 idi. i have had the air intrusion problem. i installed the clear tubes ,and found out it was before the filter housing.i put a clear line at the tank on supply line and had air sucking in there. i filled the tank to the top to narrow down the suction pipe. i dropped the tank and sure enoough below the fuel connector was 3 pitted holes in the pipe. these sender units are alittle hard to find. you can repair it with a good welder or jb weld or simply replace.

[@lembriggs1075]

Were these small holes causing hard starts or just rough idle? Mine is always hard to start. Like it looses its prime.

[@3520ms]

Just FYI, the return line off the filter head flows TOWARDS the injectors, not the other way around. There is a check valve that allows air to escape the filter head, but does not let fuel flow back into it. If you don't believe me, take it off and try to blow through it.

[@RealToolReviews]

Yeah I know, it was a accidental misspoke on my part. The main point I was trying to get across was to show the different return lines that you would look for air in. Thanks for watching! :) And good eye! ;)

[@3520ms]

I like the clear hose Idea. How long have you had it on and how does is it holding up? I put a clear fuel bowl on mine but would like to do the clear hose as well.

[@RealToolReviews]

Max Sauer I only used the clear lines temporarily to diagnose if air was leaking into the lines and/or if the orings were bad. I did not leave them on long (especially with no hose clamps). I would assume it would be ok for a while since diesel fuel isnt very corrosive like gasoline/ethanol, but I wouldnt want to spring a leak 100 miles away from home, so I swapped it all back to normal rubber fuel lines once I was done.

[@Mr69barracuda]

Great idea! However the problem with your truck is/Was lack of fuel "Pressure" which does infact effect "Pop" timing ~ but timing doesn't increase pressure. I hope you learned how to turn up the Injector pump "Pressure" before you advanced the timing. Think I'll put clear hoses on for "Just cause" it's a great diagnostic idea.

[@RealToolReviews]

It was the timing. I had to rotate the IP counter clockwise the thickness of a dime & it fixed it instantly.

[@edm9760]

None of the lines that are pressurized should be sucking in air when the engine is running. The fuel system is 2-3 psi when running, and when it is off, that is when it will suck in air. The suction side, which is the side that is before the fuel pump, will suck air in when the engine is running.

[@RealToolReviews]

The injection pumped needed to be turned counter-clockwise the thickness of a dime & retightened back down....immediately fixed the issue.

[@Huskinmatt]

@@RealToolReviews - SIR you did a great job on this and helped many of us IDI owners out -Ive read through all these comments and you deserve applause for replying to all these jokers

[@tpvalley]

on many systems there is no seperate lift pump (my car for example) and the injection pump contains the lift pump so the feed lines to it are under vacuum.

[@stevewalton7353]

Have you tried the check valve to seee if its clogged at the injection pump?

[@terrancelueckgen]

thanx

[@selador11]

@11:30. I am wondering why that metal line is even bent back toward the exhaust like that? A rubber line is run to it, so it could be straightened out, away from the manifold, and the rubber line still attached to it.

[@jrsgarage3244]

We worked on one like that in our shop it had a bad head gasket in our case it was doing the same thing 👍🚩

[@each1teachonetruth]

Can I change my injectors without removing the fuel lines from the fuel pump?

[@andrewwhite2773]

Iv got a 1986 6.9 idi and I got it running after it sat for about three years I bled three fuel lines going in to the block it ran for about 30 minutes than fine then I opened the water separator now it dont wanna start on it's own and if it does it only runs for about 3 seconds at full throttle.

[@lorenzomendez9086]

do you know if the 90e350 motor that comes in the vans is the same or will if fit right in to a f350?

[@AngryJesus]

dont know if you still work on these, but mine has a leak somewhere from the liftpump (aftermarket electric located on frame under fuel bowl / filter unit). My tank selector valve is not working currently and im wondering if that may be where it is sucking in air from. The truck is easy to start even after sitting for day, but after about an hour drive it sucks in so much air that it loses power then stalls.

[@nikolatesla5553]

I love the idea of replacing the hoses with clear hoses. Very smart. Although I am a little concerned there may be downside. Will those clear vinyl hoses last in that hot greasy environment?

[@geardoc]

Nikola Tesla this is only for a temp test. Don’t leave the clear hoses on.

[@nikolatesla5553]

@@geardoc I thought the pu4pose of the clear hoses was to ease in troubleshooting air intrusion in the fuel sysytem. Like bleeding brakes, you can see the air bubbles. Clear hoses allow you to see the air in the fuel lines because they would make bubbles. What good is it to use clear hoses to find air only to pull them off? Going back to opaque hoses just invites air back into the fuel system. It has nothing to do with temperature.

[@mikerobertson6663]

This is what’s taking place...the engine chatters and bounces at low idle throwing off the engine timing. This is possible because of spring dampened flywheel.

[@Stonereraldi]

Common problem. Before dicking around with lines. I had the same thing my 2002 7.3 Running on like three cylinders. I had the Fungi in my tanks microbial just a little water you got it. fungi I put that 911 fuel conditioner in it and that crap works. fast!!! like in 5 minutes. I know this growth and rust can screw you up bad this can inflict serious problems in systems . So try this first. before working on it.

[@terrancelueckgen]

what about the lines that go injector to injector?

[@SeymourBalz]

Check for air leak by spraying. If it revs it's sucking are where you spray.

[@atv55803]

you caps if they leak from cracked o rings is straight up fuel leak period all you`ll see is fuel leaking and smell fuel is the very first thing you`ll smell then just look at the caps and the ones that's leaking is your culprit the fuel rails to don't like being disturb in any way shape or form never disturb them period .. once you do a o ring and cap always do the set and keep the hose straight as possible no sags in the line

[@JamesRReser]

I can tell you from a lot of experience it's a bad plunger in the injection pump

[@jerrywhaley4887]

I have a 92 it does the same thing when you started it blows out blue smoke

[@migelfernandez5906]

Where can I find the air filter I went all auto parts and they don’t have. My pick up truck is the same model

[@mbm887]

The ambient air pressure on the surface of the planet i.e. sea level is 14.7 psi not zero

[@alexburke7599]

Mine dies after a few minutes and the shop put a new IP in but it is still dying after a few minutes of running fine and is hard to start. I will def this test in the video. Could it be the IP timing is off so badly it would run for a few minutes sounding fine then just die like it ran out of gas? It also has brand new lift pump I'm wondering what to look at next. I'm sort of leaning towards the replacement pump was bad or possibly a mistake in installing lift pump. I have the same symptoms as before changing both pumps so I'm confused. Also could it possibly be the fuel pump relay is burned out or the little cylinder sensor looking thing on the left of the IP towards the front? I haven't figured out what that part is but it's the original part and I want to change it out because it's attached to the IP and looks important. It kind of looks like an transmission kick down valve but it's not and it regulates or senses something best I can tell. Thanks for any thoughts or advice.

[@chuck095]

Alex Burke that definitely sounds like an air intrusion like this video is explaining. The air is keeping the fuel from getting to the engine, if it is really hard to start in the morning, it is because the fuel is draining back to the tank overnight, causing the lift pump to have to reprime the IP. It can leave you stranded for sure. Hope this helps

[@123buttnut]

mine started idling really rough while driving, then i heard a screetching, has oil, then it started to over heat very quickly and it wont idle once it warms up

[@michaelbenoit248]

Could be a bad IP sometimes the IP will die out once it's warm. It's either that or major issues, then it's engine time.

[@Dieselmechanic509]

Do you know where i can get a diagram showing me the routing of the returnline system?

[@allenbermea9015]

Reverse engineering. Very easy set up I just followed lines

[@terrancelueckgen]

check the valve cover gasket wiring

[@sharkyrich4844]

It's common rail

[@selador11]

Did you advance your Injection Pump timing? That's what fixed the rough running, on mine.

[@RealToolReviews]

Yes....rotated it counter clockwise the thickness of a dime I believe......this was quite a long time ago.

[@rylenross4361]

Hey I love the video was hoping u would be able to send me the link to the fallow up on finding out what your problem was please or if we could chat on FB cuss I'm running in to the same sort of problem and have spent hours and hours of trying to fine the issue

[@RealToolReviews]

1. Mark your injector pump with a scribe line. 2. Loosen IP mounting bolts. 3. Rotate IP counter clockwise (top towards passenger side) the thickness of a dime. 4. Tighten IP mounting bolts. 5. Problem solved.

[@Matt-vb2jo]

Anyone know how to do this on 351 windsor? Pumps good, filter new, for check out, injectors are ok but not new. New plugs wires distribute, grounds tight, battery voltage excellent. New PVC, TAD, have not cleaned throttle body or IAC. What would be causing a miss? Engine has good power when it gets the gas. I'm thinking air/fuel ratio.

[@Matt-vb2jo]

Wont let me edit... fuel filter is new.

[@johnhardison8490]

ever figure out what was causing the blue smoke?

[@tedd.g1636]

John Hardison I’m sure just not enough fuel

[@atv55803]

head gasket is shot is what I think is it burning anti freeze >?

[@sharkyrich4844]

lol!

[@backroadriding5825]

So I know I won’t get a response but I see one of my caps is wet but there is no air in any lines could it still be a problem

[@RealToolReviews]

The crossover rubber lines between injectors get brittle and leak…. So just because you don’t see air from the tank, it may be sucking air between injectors. I suggest changing those also.

[@completegamemanager]

Check the CDR valve too

[@RealToolReviews]

+completegamemanager It was the IP.....I had to loosen it, rotate counter-clockwise the thickness of a dime & retighten.....problem instantly solved.

[@completegamemanager]

Nice bit of info. The video was very informative. Have you checked the CDR valve gromet and breather tube lately? I replaced all 3 on my truck and the idle was much improved, and less oil blow by in the exhaust.

[@gavinlayton4810]

One of the best videos I've come across.... My 86 6.9 starts and runs great in to work. On the way home it starts to sputter and then dies. Fuel in the filter is clean, no evident water. I put the filter back on, hit the Schraeder valve (very small ffft) and it takes about 5 seconds longer than usual to fire up. Finishes the trip home with no trouble. Next day, the very same thing. Three times this has happened.

[@gavinlayton4810]

Four times. I know, I'm insane.

[@Huskinmatt]

YOURE THE 100TH PERSON THIS DUDE HAS HAD TO TELL THAT HE FIXED THE ISSUE BY ADVANCING THE TIMING THE THICKNESS OF A DIME

[@mofbro]

Are the clear hoses just for test purposes or can they be left on ?

[@RealToolReviews]

I think they’d harden and leak……I used them just for testing. However I do believe you can buy translucent fuel lines (bulk rolls) that would work.

[@Joeri0720]

Helping my nephew with his truck. Getting small bubbles in all 3 lines. We have not done the line from the lift pump. Is it possible that the lift pump is adding air to the system. Also,can't seem to find the correct lift pump. His has the really curve arm vs the longer flat arm? Anyone know the correct part number.

[@RealToolReviews]

Yes it is possible that the lift pump is adding air, however it is also very likely that the fuel selector valve (along the frame rail) or the filter housing is leaking air also. To see if it is the selector valve, disconnect the incoming line from the lift pump & put a fuel line directly into a 5 gallon can of diesel & also remove the return line from the rear of the drivers side fuel return & connect another fuel line returning the fuel to the 5 gallon can (closed loop). If it runs with no air in the clear lines, then its the selector valve or the pickup tubes inside the tanks. The lift pump is an Airtex 60278. When you replace it, you will need a remote starter on the starter solenoid because you MUST bolt it in when at the bottom of the cam lobe (no tension on it), if you install in any other position, the lift arm will snap off as soon as you try and start the truck. I used a 2" hole saw to cut through the inner fender well to see directly into the opening VS using a mirror at an angle. To understand what "cam lobe" means, think of the cam lobe as an egg....one narrow end & one wide end.....you want the narrow end pointed straight up & the wide end facing the ground.

[@Joeri0720]

dmcguinn1 He bought a new lift pump and we installed it. His bus ran much better but we still are getting a lot of bubble from the return junction to the driver side return line. We tried the 5 gallon can trick with a Holly (red) electric fuel pump and also got bubbles. Idling or driving on flat ground there are no bubbles. The bubbles start when climbing a pretty steep hill. Could the injector pump be leaking under a load? or is it normal for air bubbles under load? So far replaced all the return caps and o-ring, all connecting hoses, return fuel line, fuel line to filter and from the filter back to the rail. Anyway, thanks for the tips and the video. It is very helpful.

[@RealToolReviews]

Joeri0720 Are both tanks (or at minimum, the tank you are using) completely full of fuel? If not, and you drive at an angle, more of the in-tank pickup tube is exposed & could suck air. If the tank is full, then try the following: 1. Wiggle each return cap back and forth 3-4 times to ensure they are fully seated correctly. One o-ring, in one cap (1 out of 16 o-rings) will cause the air leak. 2. Ensure the fuel filter is completely bled. Air will get trapped in there, and at an angle, it could be pushed through the system. When you are done bleeding, add a standard cap to the schrader valve (off of a tire). 3. Test it at load on flat ground.....either at highway speeds, or drive slower in a low gear....get the RPMs up & see if bubbles form. If that doesn't work, then do the following: 1. Remove the 90 degree fitting & attached check valve on the top of the injector pump. It is NOT on the rear (facing the cab), it is directly on the top & the return line attaches to it. Separate the 2 pieces (90 degree fitting & check valve), and clean them with carb cleaner....over & over until nothing comes out onto a paper towel. You may need to use a small pick in order to scrape around inside....get it clean. 2. Replace the o-ring that is at the bottom of the check valve where it threads into the injector pump. That o-ring could be leaking air. 3. Use teflon tape on the threads & reassemble. In addition to this, you need to add the following to EVERY tankful of diesel fuel. With the new "ultra low sulfur" diesel, there is zero lubrication for older injection pumps & they burn up because they aren't lubricated. The best mixture you will add is : 16 ounces of 2 cycle engine oil (1 gallon jug at walmart is $12) & 4 ounces of Dieselkleen. The 2 cycle oil is the most important part. Your truck will not smoke by adding it, but it will instantly make a difference in the lubrication & it will run better. You need to add this to each tank when you fill up. Try those things out & we can go from there. Good Luck!

[@charlesonyango2472]

@@RealToolReviews This message is nested and hidden. It should be pinned up at the top. Thanks for taking time to reply.

[@DarrinsChannel]

I had. 1989 Ford f250 7.3 idi had the same problem put in two different Kit's for the o-rings still couldn't get it to stop sucking it so I sold it and bought a 2004 6.0 f350 crew cab 4x4

[@evanmagana3234]

I just put my truck I haven’t had any problems with the but just the outher day to work and was have very bad miss fire I have 1991 7.3 idi non turbo I really trying to truble shot my problem

[@RealToolReviews]

First check for air in the lines…. Most common culprit. Next, loosen the IP bolts and rotate IP counter clockwise literally the thickness of a dime and retighten. Also, add 8-16oz of 2-cycle oil to your tank each fill up. Ultra low sulfur diesel has NO lubrication for your IP & the 2-cycle oil will make it run much better with increased fuel economy/power also. Gallon jugs of it are in the Walmart oil aisle. Don’t buy the tiny bottles.

[@colemaddox1111]

I have a 1986 Ford 6.9 non turbo and I replaced the return lines but not the brass under the injector seal and it has lost its prime worst than before the truck sat for approx 6 years in a barn I put battery in it and it crank up and it still runs good but I have so much trouble cranking it

[@joshuareimen3305]

Fuel filter might be needin a change, sounds like she's fuel starved.

[@tech9494]

I don't get it. All those lines are pressurized. When does ambient air pressure(0 psi) exceed the pressure in the lines? Maybe when engine is off. No other time.

[@kevmitch4992]

Only on the suction side of the primer pump

[@alyshariquier2806]

My truck is doing the same thing, could you tell me what was wrong with yours. I did change the glow plugs and the injectors and still running rough with white smokes. Should I install transparent lines? Was it worth it?

[@RealToolReviews]

+Siana Cirell The transparent lines are a temp solution to verify that air is not causing the rough idle/poor performance.....you should not use them long-term. As far as the solution for me, it ended up being the Injection Pump....not replacing it, but loosening it up & rotating counter-clockwise (top pivots towards passenger side) literally the thickness of a dime (you need to score the pump & be very careful about this so you dont rotate too much).....then re-tighten.....problem instantly solved. Also, you should be adding 8-12 ounces of 2-cycle oil PER TANK each time you fill up....the new ultra-low sulfur has ZERO lubrication for the injectors or IP & will destroy them quickly. 1 gallon of 2-cycle oil at Walmart is $13. If you do those two things (assuming it isnt an air intrusion issue), you should be good to go.....my fuel mileage went from 8-9mpg to 16mpg ---- YMMV depending on your axle ratio.

[@daidai1625]

I think its not in the injection pump or the air in the system. You should check also the gauge on racker arm. I had an experience like this before and i found out that 4 of my pushrod was broken.

[@crlrealty1]

FYI Diesel fuel rubber hoses are special houses. DIESEL fuel rubber hoses are designed to handle PSI pressure of up to 6,700 PSI or more The DB2 Stanadyne Injection pump on the 7.3 IDI pressure is 6,700 PSI. The high PSI the DB2 produces is why the fuel injection lines are made of steel. Think about that!!

[@RealToolReviews]

The crossover lines are rubber. With standard fuel hose clamps. They aren’t at the same pressure as the metal lines.

[@TheDb351c]

injection pump is bad

[@Jacksonkellyfreak]

IP timing.

[@rosendodominguez9833]

IT SAUNDS LAK IS KRAP . .GO GAT AAA TOYOTA .

[@atv55803]

your not sucking air you have way worse issue like blown head gaskets or there was a hole in cylinder from wrong anti freeze

[@RealToolReviews]

+j ryder wrong. The IP timing was off & I had to loosen it & rotate counter clockwise the thickness of a dime & retighten....instantly fixed & MPG went to 16-17.

[@Zach-ju5vi]

Its not a Chevy.

[@atv55803]

@@Zach-ju5vi earlier fords had a issue with cavitation erosion from the wrong coolent

[@Zach-ju5vi]

@@atv55803 that's what they say but I've never seen it and this engine clearly doesn't have a head gasket issue.

[@atv55803]

@@Zach-ju5vi its not a head gasket issue its a blown out cylinder wall due to cavitation ,using the wrong anti freeze in diesels will lead to cavitation issues ,just because you never seen it means nothing

[@maximumpower102]

Your ip is junk

[@mikerobertson6663]

Dude ... you have a bad flywheel! Springs in the flywheel are bad

[@RealToolReviews]

It was the injection pump.... needed to be rotated counter clockwise the thickness of a dime. Fixed it instantly.

[@gisellevitali9679]

Better idea,do not buy a ford to begin with.

[@zenzent4575]

I have watch your video many times over not one time you have mention anything about fuel separator

[@RealToolReviews]

The filter separates the water out….