How to Clean Climbing Anchors

Jason shows how to clean climbing anchors for top rope setting specifically although this can apply to multipitch as well. There are several procedures shown including lowering off (lowest risk) and rappelling off (minimal impact), and when to use each. #climbing #rockclimbing #toprope
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[@vinceburris2538]

Jason, you are a great teacher. Thank you so much for making these instructional videos. I always come away with good climbing practices.

[@summitseekersexperience]

Glad you like them!

[@JREV123]

Exceptional video and teaching skill. Thanks for all that you do to educate the community! Never thought about using my Petzl Connect Adjust as a rappel extension. Smart!!

[@summitseekersexperience]

For sure!!!

[@christopherwernette2644]

Nice video! Another added benefit of the stopper knot during rappel is it prevents the end of the rope from going through the rings. I’ve seen it where the weight of the rope from the long side causes the short end to get pulled up/through.

[@summitseekersexperience]

Great point!

[@RopeSpirit]

Nice

[@DiegoGonzalez-ei8qu]

Love your videos

[@minkuanhu]

best video I've even seen for climbing, thank you Jason !

[@climbwithcooper]

Hey Jason! I've seen other videos that talk about what to do when you're unable to pass a bight of rope through the rappel rings (e.g. if there are smaller chains hanging from the anchor). In that case, I saw that the climber clipped into the anchor with a PAS, pulled slack up, tied an overhand on a bight, and then clipped that overhand to their harness so they wouldn't drop the rope. Then, they undid their original figure 8 knot, threaded the rope through the chain links, and retied their figure 8 to their harness so they could lower. What's your opinion on what to do when the anchor doesn't have rappel rings large enough to thread a bight of rope through? Would you recommend the above advice? Thanks!

[@summitseekersexperience]

I believe I commented on this during the final procedure I showed on this video in that you would use the procedure I highlighted (exactly what you articulated) in the case that you could t fit a bight through).

[@climbwithcooper]

@@summitseekersexperience Sounds good, thanks for clarifying!

[@baileynicholson251]

Commented something similar in this instance I personally would prefer to rap. But it's good to know.

[@ArinaThomsen]

In the first method, when you belayer is lowering you, how cannot it be done without PAS (the way you showed it), unless you stand on the ledge? I mean it will be impossible to feed the slack on a loaded rope.

[@summitseekersexperience]

You should be on a stance that allows you to unweight the rope. If you didn’t have a stance where you could do this easily, you should utilize a pas as I showed in the modified procedure

[@fredrikwesterman8875]

great video! I have been using a sling as my reppel extension, but this petzl connect adjust methods looks nice! But what if the anchor is on the side of the cliff and i dont have a ledge to stand on and the petzl connect adjust is weighted? Then i guess i will need to use a sling for extending the reppel or what would you say? Have a great day! :)

[@mihaibalan1917]

I have seen a lot of videos lately and yours was by far the best one! complete, easy to understand and you left no room for interpretations. thanks for keeping us safe man!

[@baileynicholson251]

One slight correcting or at least elaboration. You can remain "on belay" when you cant thread a bight thru the anchors. Basically you get in direct thread a bight through the direct then untie thread your rope thru the anchors than retie into the figure 8 follow thru on the harness

[@TheConsciousClimber]

For the rappell... attaching the atc to the pas with a clove hitch was neat, haven't seen that, but what if that was weighted? How would you apply it then? @ 9:30

[@summitseekersexperience]

You could not tie it weighted… however I have NEVER been on a rappel/belay stance that I couldn’t unweight.

[@tophatx4598]

What we've done is set it up on the ground in advance.

[@poolplayerbrian]

thanks for the videos.

[@MaxM26]

Great content Jason! As I commented in one of your previous videos, it would be awesome if you show us how to safely pass the rope through the rings without an anchor in place. It’s a common procedure when being the last lead climber on a single pitch route. 2 options I can think of with and without a PAS.

[@summitseekersexperience]

I think it’s just the first procedure I showed in this video minus the anchor in place since you’re on lead right?

[@MaxM26]

Yea the procedure is the same but some of the details like redundancy are different. The anchor points are not linked but you have all points clipped in on your ascent. I typically add a QuickDraw on one of the anchor bolts to which I clove in …or use a PAS.

[@tangerinetango]

2:00 - for when I come back to rewatch this video

[@lb259]

Great series, Jason, thanks! I’m trying to link the episodes and write a checklist for a top rope setup and cleaning on a bottom-managed site for climbing with kids. In the gyms, the top ropes are installed, but to set this up on a crag, two adults are needed. Here’s what I got, some questions in the text. 1) Setting up a top rope - lead climber - quickdraws, PAS, quad anchor with carabines. Should the quad be prepared in advance on the ground or when arriving at the anchor? - lead climber climbs to the anchor, attaches with the PAS, and installs the quad - then they clip the rope to the quad, tests weight it by communicating to the belayer, detaches the PAS, and is lowered down - while lowering down, they unclip the quickdraws, right? 2) Climbing on the top rope - as in the gym. When the kid climbs to the anchor, they are lowered down. 3) Cleaning the top rope - the adult climbs up to the anchor belayed on the top rope. - the rest is like in this episode. Lowering is preferred, rappelling is the second option. Is this correct, or anything to add? Thank you

[@lb259]

I forgot to mention that this is for a single-pitch crag with a couple of routes next to each other. Kids might want to climb one route a couple of times before moving to another one. That's why bottom-managed seems easier to handle to me. Was considering top-managed too, but lowering would be a challenge and probably not that safe (I don't have/use Grigri yet, but Mammut Smart and Reverso).

[@Climbingdude]

Great video. I remember when I took that class with you at sand rock. You had me clean the anchor on mine wall? I was super nervous.

[@RopeSpirit]

Really? How did it turn out?

[@elistidham8494]

How in the world would you do that without a third hand

[@Simon-ku7ky]

You have zero redundancy on that second method. I was screaming at my laptop as you were untying that fig8. You should use two slings and go through the bolts on the wall, forming your own master point that is equalised. If your PAS fails how you've done it, that rope clipped to your gear loop will only look pretty as it floats down behind you.

[@RopeSpirit]

How you figure this is the most effective way?

[@Simon-ku7ky]

I mean i'm not even that experienced but i know guides and friends who would be screaming at me if i did something like that. You always want a redundancy if something were to unexpectedly fail. I would check out HowNot2 youtube channel for general testing/safety. @@RopeSpirit

[@summitseekersexperience]

A single personal tether is common in this situation… especially in multipitch or multipitch rappels… redundant PAS is typically unnecessary but I see many beginners use them because a lot of KZbin videos show that… however, according to AMGA courses and training I’ve received, one is sufficient

[@trombahonker]

@Simon-ku7ky You climb on one rope with one knot, one belayer, one belay loop, sometimes you even stand on *gasp* one foot; There are many things in climbing that are not redundant. Yes, Petzl connect adjust uses one section of dynamic rope as the tether, and when cloved to your rappel device, it is acceptable. You CAN use a sling with two legs and an isolating knot, and maybe that makes you feel redundant??? However, there has been ample testing that shows knotted slings (especially dyneema) are not good for personal tethers due to the risk of failure if the climber unweights and then falls on the tether. A length of dynamic rope IS better, and actually removing the Petzl connect adjust in favor of a knotted lanyard is the best option. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqG6fKWdnbh_l9E