How to Top Rope Outside

[@Purposefulsteps]

By far one of the best anchor videos. Very well explained!

[@hereaftermediaproductions2675]

I appreciate you taking the time to explain that the double Quick Draw anchor system isn't absolutely safe and probably not the best solution for a lot of situations. I've had that anchor system fail on me at Big Rock, South Carolina. Our best guess as to how it happened is the terrain and style of quickdraw were likely the biggest factors. The low angle nature of the slab made the anchor susceptible to banging against the rock as the rope moves through the system. The dyneema dogbone styled quickdraws twist a lot more frequently, and all that likely created the perfect storm for the rope to unclip completely from one quickdraw, and get snagged between the open gate and the nose of the remaining quickdraw. I've seen a lot of popular climbing channels promote this anchor as superior without disclosing the caveats. Thanks for taking the time to do both!

[@mdbernsten]

That’s why it’s smart to use at least one locker when utilizing the double quick draw method.

[@hereaftermediaproductions2675]

@@mdbernsten I definitely agree. The person who set up that anchor has since taken that advice to practice!

[@climbwithcooper]

Jason, I seriously can't thank you enough man! My friends and I have recently transitioned from the gym to outdoor climbing for the first time (we're up in Minnesota) and all of your videos have helped me become a lot more confident setting up gear and climbing outside. Because of your videos on setting up and cleaning anchors, I was able to successfully clean my first anchor and rappel outside. I look forward to seeing more of the videos in this series! I'm currently trying to figure out how to set up a top rope anchor outside with different features like trees, large boulders, etc. I don't have any trad gear at the moment, but will you be doing a video on setting up trad top rope anchors on climbs where you can hike up to the top to set it up? Thanks so much! Subscribed and liked.

[@summitseekersexperience]

For sure, our next part in the series will be natural anchors. You don’t need any trad gear.

[@hardrocklobsterroll395]

Great video as always Jason. just a heads up to anyone reading this gray on gear doesn’t work for some QuickDraws, first one that comes to mind is BD Hotwire in Grey. It’s a great phrase but always make sure you know your gear before going up a route!

[@summitseekersexperience]

For sure… def gotta only apply if you built the quick draw in that way

[@rockcycle824]

Love your vids, they're excellent review for me! One other thing that might be a good addition to a top rope guide is building natural anchors with trees or boulders, as that is pretty common for top rope in some areas. I was glad to get confirmation on using the rap rings for the anchor. At a local crag the bolt hangers are so tight in some places that I cannot even get my skinniest carabiners comfortably through.

[@summitseekersexperience]

For sure. Good suggestion

[@Needafollower]

This is what I need! Your climbing videos are so awesome! Love it 👍🏽

[@ivanpaskalev9863]

Amaizing videos, really help me for multi pitch climbing. Thanks a lot

[@Pickledballer338]

I appreciate your videos. Thank you for doing this series. I’m making the transition from gym to crag, this is perfect timing.

[@djdiscopapi]

This is a great video and super timely. I recently created my own DIY anchor practice board and have been improving my muscle memory on getting the quad set up. My confusion is with clipping into the rap ring vs the hanger itself. In the past, I have put the top rope anchor on the hangers and will tether myself to the chain or hanger. I suppose this is okay but clarification would be helpful.

[@LachlanBradfordWest]

I wish I could have the opportunity to be face to face. But alas I live in Australia. Your comment about thinking we are experts but there is so much more to learn rings a bell for sure. I think I'm just going through the phase of realising I'm not an expert and have lots to learn.

[@blonk333]

Great info here! Looking forward to the rest of the videos.

[@ChrisSmith-lk2vq]

Great content!! One question: With the single master point anchor: why use non locking carabineers? You specifically say so but why not use locking carabineers instead? Cheers anyway!! -Chris

[@Agnaro]

Looking forward to the rest of the series

[@robertbaeza5299]

Awesome video! Question: is your cordelette static or dynamic and what is the minimum diameter you would use for each anchor system, dynamic and static cordelette anchors?

[@bethanymitchell8537]

Thank you for this video! My partner and I have only top roped indoors and now want to test some small walls nearby (we are in San Francisco and have limited outdoor walls that are small, perfect for us). We get confused easily when climbers explain set ups because we are still very much beginners and we only belay from the bottom. Which of your methods do you think would be the safest and easiest for us beginners to go outside and set up from the top, hike down and meet the rope at the bottom?

[@geometerfpv2804]

I'm sure someone has pointed this out, but the quad has two shelves, not sure why you said there was no shelf. They're both redundant attachment points.

[@poolplayerbrian]

The quad seams to always come up as the most versatile and fastest anchor. its even recommended for Ice screw top belay. Where I'm at the bolts aren't always at the same height or closely spaced so counting on two quickdraws isn't a viable option unless your already know what to expect at the end of the route.

[@summitseekersexperience]

I use the quad almost exclusively on bolted belays… and single master point almost exclusively on trad anchors

[@Thunderwoodz]

Solid teacher man!

[@summitseekersexperience]

Thanks!

[@francismueller]

Thank you very much for your videos! Regarding the dual quick draw anchor system and its disadvantages/risks, what if you'd replace the carabiners with locking ones? Is there a downside to taking this approach?

[@summitseekersexperience]

No downside, just takes longer and is heavier. You can do this if you want extra security because you can’t see the anchors or are doing a lot of laps.

[@francismueller]

@@summitseekersexperience Thanks!

[@dicrurusparadiseus]

Logistical question- 06:30 if you're the only one who can set up and take down routes, how do you take pictures of your climbers while belaying from the top? With a Gopro?

[@nathanpinnock9541]

I was wondering the same thing!

[@IGJTHOMAS]

Love your content, I would suggest the term rubber on rope instead of gray on gear. For instance my quick draws I put the black carabiner on the gear. Just a suggestion for inclusivity. Please do t slow down making your content. I'm training for my SPI exam and your videos are in inspiring. Professional demeanor, clear context, passion, and knowledgeable.

[@justinrichards249]

Thanks for these videos! Question: Why do you have the oval carabiner + rigging ring attached to your bolts rather than bolt, carabiner, sling?

[@space9277]

Sport anchors commonly have links connected to chains, mussy hooks, or rappel rings at the very top. It's there for rappelling when people put their rope through at the end of the day. The oval carabiner (screw link) allows experienced climbers to replace the attached gear later if it shows signs of wear or age. You're only supposed to lower through the gear at the very end or rappel down. Your rope would get damaged really fast if you put it just though a bolt. The rings allow the rope to pass without a hard edge like a bolt would have. I know this comment is months old, but if you're interested look at the other two videos on this channel - rock climbing and rappelling master class and how to clean climbing anchors on this channel. Rappelling is extremely dangerous and usually no one is there to double check so it's important to get every step right. Always make a plan on the ground first before going up for the last climb. Person A: I'm going to climb up, attach my personal anchor, then you can go off belay and I will rappel. Person B: Okay sounds good I will belay you to the top, then wait for you to get attached with the personal anchor, then I will go off belay so you can feed the rope for the rappel.

[@space9277]

Hi Jason so I know people commonly do the 120cm sliding x, but I was wondering if you ever see the quad put into the sliding x? I know normally people clip 2-3 and clip the other 2, but was wondering your thoughts on the quad sliding x. Thank you.

[@sidewalkchock]

Why double locking carabiners for clipping the rope into top rope anchor? Just to get a better curve for the rope?

[@vinceburris2538]

Great educational videos. Thank you.

[@vasibozai190]

how many mm must have cordelin used for the top ?

[@matthewhjellen5660]

Love your content so much🤘🤘🤘

[@TVinmyEye]

Hey Jason, what brand sling do you use? It looks like a nylon sling

[@summitseekersexperience]

Black diamond

[@robinc.6791]

This video is gold!

[@galaxie12]

great video, thanks!⚓

[@gabrielvega1713]

Any advice on how to figure out which climbing areas are bolted? I can't seem to find that info on any sites

[@summitseekersexperience]

Nearly all areas have bolts at the top.

[@123qweasdfr4]

For the quad anchor you should keep the knots close to each other so if one of the bolts was to fail...the carabiner won't have to travel far before it catches you. Other than that A++

[@summitseekersexperience]

Mmm I’d say it’s situational… if the climber is traversing, close knots will prevent engagement of both bolts. But your comment about shockload is important

[@hitendramore9434]

Great video

[@oogaleeboo]

Thank you so much for all of your helpful videos both on KZbin and Instagram. It has really helped me with my transition from gym climbing to the crag

[@Addictedclimbers]

Do you have recommend over hand over a figure 8 on the quad?

[@summitseekersexperience]

Yep

[@Addictedclimbers]

Even in slings? Just wondering not questioning your knowledge. I just heard overhands are okay in cordalette or static rope but overhand in dyneema or nylon slings is 40% loss compared to the 25% in a figure 8 knot. Could have been incorrect

[@summitseekersexperience]

@@Addictedclimbers for sure… no I didn’t take it as a challenge at all… yeah there’s the fact that the sling will become weaker with an overhand which it does… by about a 35-40% reduction. But the sling is doubled up and was probably rated for 24 kN so 48 kN total… reduce by 35-40% and you got like 30 kN so still super good. The hownotto guys did a break test on a sling quad and it was like 30-40 kN

[@Addictedclimbers]

Appreciate you taking the time to reply! And for sure, I can make the quad with the over hand a little quicker and more efficient with since it’s a little easier to tie so wanted ask, and reassure myself! Keep up the videos man!!! 🤙🏼

[@jamesjenfesteryga4262]

I'm curious why non-lockers at the hangers?

[@footstol66]

There are benefits for both options. Short answer, you're not likely to go completely above the anchor and if you fall you're above unlikely to accidentally unclip both. It's also less playing around. Less noob safe what I like : I normally go for an auto locker on one side of the bolts and one in the rope path this endures nubies are less likely to unclip themselves.

[@JimmySendsSometimes]

How do you like those Petzl attaches? I was debating picking a few up but I've heard the screw gate tends to jam frequently.

[@jacobborcherding3900]

Tons of guides really like them. Guides climb often so they must be worth the price…

[@idruiza]

This is great. But I believe is better lockers everywhere. I mean just a few dollar extra and you are gonna feel and get more secure.

[@summitseekersexperience]

Mmm… it’s not so much the money… lockers are more cumbersome and heavier… it’s more a question of if risk exists. If I’m outside belaying my two kids on a 40 foot route that I can see the anchors, vs outside belaying an entire 20 person Boy Scout group on a 100 foot route where I can’t see the anchors… I may use extra lockers in one of those situations…