How to CLEAN Sticky Figures, Remove Paint Transfer & More!

[@azulleth9401]

Doing gods work by making content about what can happen to figures, how to take care of them and how to fix them in in the worst case scenerio.

[@CC-nt4zi]

You need UV to make hydrogen peroxide effective as a whitener. Put the cream on and put it in the sun or UV light. You also should wet the melamine sponges before using

[@sasamiadachi]

A very practical video that helps collectors of all levels. It is always great to see various advices and practices put to the test. Thank you for making this video.

[@lizmarienyc]

Amazing work on the nendoroid! She looks fantastic.

[@Zer-bv9nw]

I appreciate all the thought that went into making this video.

[@seriouslysarah]

I always had trouble with the plasticizer effect it had on my stuff. This is pretty useful to learn how to clean it now.

[@arthasfrost]

I had the exact black brush, been doing it for years still the better way for even the most difficult figure

[@jocman7339]

Was waiting a long time now for this video tutorial. I didn't want my figures to be experimental rabbits (if they need some help - some probably do). So depending on damage: light degrease solution, tooth paste, miracle sponge, microfiber cloth, UV light... are usable treatments for cleaning & improving conditions of the pretty painted plastic. Thank you very much for this. Keep doing good stuff... :)

[@mikhaile313]

this is an amazing video specially for me a nendoroid collector a massive thumbs up thank you so much for making this video

[@undine623]

Excellent video, I recently got an old figure and it had a few of these things, will definitely try to clean it properly, I tried some other methods but did not try any chemicals because I did not know what was appropriate to use or what could damage it. Specially love the last two.

[@masterbosscaptain]

Thanks for testing all these cleaning methods.

[@ierihon3251]

One tutorial for all💪

[@karendarboe3998]

I cried a bit cause i was really waiting for a tip on the internal stain, which is my only issue with a figure i currently have, only to be told i'm screwed basically xD That really hurt 😂 Btw Thank you so much!!! Your channel is always so helpful❤

[@EXkurogane]

Yeah, your only solution is to repaint the entire part

[@InfamyOrDeath-__-]

Great video, very helpful, especially the cleaning of the sticky figures, because I’d say I’ll have an issue with that. I’ve so many figures in boxes and some of them are over 10 years old.

[@Spencer31494]

Very informative I plan to collect some model kits but I had some stuff as a kid but just thought keeping it in a box was good enough but it’s nice to know of methods of keeping them clean without damaging them

[@vincentaguilar7011]

thank you very much for sharing this o7 for the effort and risk you did for the name of learning.

[@animeturnMMD]

Thanks for the video man, really helpful I will save it in list to use it when needed.

[@galllademech]

I think the music during the cleaning sections are unnecessary (or use a quieter less intense backing track), especially since you speak during some of them

[@InfamyOrDeath-__-]

I actually liked the music.

[@gabrielamaya9086]

Louder

[@kyominararagi7816]

In my experience with paint transfer on my native- literary type figure, I used acetone and qtips to remove the black paint transfer on her thighs, ever since then I keep all cast off-able parts off and display them naked in full glory 😆

[@HenryBozzz]

I'm going try to restore one of my yellowed figures by applying a sodium bicarbonate paste (basically hair bleach) to the areas and then leaving it under a UV lamp box for an hour or two. I have read that this is the most effective way to restore yellowed plastic. I still need to buy the necessary things first.

[@lunequedelrio3646]

I use hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) in yellowish Gunpla and unpainted plastic models. Works like magic in sunlight or uv LEDs. Sometimes, with more damaged parts, I need to leave it an entire night in uv light.

[@franzbugtong2327]

amazing video and channel as always, learned a lot from here, including the danger of never opening your figure boxes (which i also shared to my collector friends )

[@sylphanoss]

Funny i have both Hayakawa and Ignis with the same issues. Time to clean them

[@felipebasilio7332]

I bought a Guren at Enbu Sakuya Mode Crimson last month😃

[@troloinkto]

4:37 is better to wet the sponge and then squeezing it, because a dry sponge will cause tiny particles to fall from the sponge

[@InfamyOrDeath-__-]

I use a make up brush & a hoover to dust my figures, I brush them down and have the nozzle of the hoover close so it sucks in all the dust I brush off, and I stick the brush into the nozzle of the hoover every few wipes to suck all the dust off the end of the brush so it doesn’t collect on the end of the brush & I end up scratching the figure. It’s impossible not to put really fine scratches on those flat shiny black bases, when you look at the base in the sun you’ll see these fine scratches left behind.

[@osyraleth]

Super informative content👍! I'm a rather new collector (about 2 years) so except dust i didn't had any problems so far but it's good to know what options are out there if such situations ever occur. Thx for the info Steven and have a nice day✌!

[@SebastianJofre-g3f]

Thank you for this helpful video!!!

[@bk1ng22]

THANK YOU SO MUCH my nendos and figures is sticky with plasticizer, i just tried earlier with toothbrush and body soap. It redusce the3 plasticizer but still sticky a bit

[@sweetybait]

real 99% isoprophyl works the same like leveling thinner, and keep in mind that both liquid can also damage paint layer when rubbed enough

[@fendykristin5507]

tq so much for making this video!

[@ronnychinchilla8303]

In the worst cases of white area turning yellow, Try to apply the hydrogen peroxide on the surface, then cover it in clear plastic film and put it directly on the sunlight for at least 5 min or 10 min. The result is good enough.

[@xianfa1708]

instead of toothbruh, i use a mircrofiber cloth (the ones used for dslr lens) when wiping off de bled out plasticizer from nendoroid faceplates while using mild degreasing dishwasher liquid soap. it prevent skratches dat can be kaused by brushing, and wud stille retain de matte finish of de skinn

[@fairybro]

thank you for this video!!! i really need it. gonna rewatch this a few times lolol 🙏🙏🙏 what type of toothbrush did you use; fine/thick is ok? would u have issue of the paint coming out when using the toothbrush; e.g. is the eye decals on the nendoroid safe? how did u remove the stickyness on the red scarf of the scale figure?

[@katerynaberidukhova2923]

I have ~100 figures. Usually I dust them with a makeup brush, but sometimes (especially with big, detailed figures) I'll wash them in the sink with soap. Then I'll put them on a towel, let them air-dry and back on the shelf they go. As for garage kits, sometimes I also wash them with soapy water or use wet wipes. A good way to prevent more color transfers after cleaning those up is to spray a coat of Mr. Super Clear over both touching surfaces and let it dry for 24 hours. Boom, no more color transfers.

[@ying3966]

8:55 Is not removable but it can be painted on NOT nothing can be done, it can be done. That is if you're crafty and can find similar paints. Hand brushing depending on the style of the bleed is acceptable but if you want seamless, it'll be cans or airbrush. This is similar to attributing to garage kit/model kit building. (much like spraying mr top coat/using anti static brush/model brush) Mold can easily be done with two options, (dawn) dish soap (people swear by submerging, I don't submerge, I have a spray bottle based on 1:2 ratio with water) OR White Vinegar (not bleach at all) Heard me right, Vinegar. Not all of it and no submerging, again ratio it with water. I go with 1:4. Both options you dab with a clean cloth (model kit/garage kit builders have a disposable premium cleaning non-abrasive cloth that's...not worth it, just use any other non-abrasive cloth) Unfortunately, everyone has somethings nearby windows OR...their lightbulb from the ceiling and that's probably my answer, UV is unavoidable but can be muted as a lightbulb from the ceiling is muted and that is why people use glass displays with doubled up UV protection. There is appreciation to a post in reddit that tested a whole bunch (not all due to the person budget in question) - I have a third UV protection but the person on reddit finds it overkill, I call it "I had more options". Thinner is correct, us Model kit/Garage kit builders already have those. Cotton swab is perfectly fine but then again I opt for the more professional method which is using a...eraser cotton brush tool. No it's not the same design as the cotton swab, it has a smooth body and glides AND contours the body design easier on figures - P.S not needed, cotton swab is fine, I just happen to be "fancy". Plasticizer stickiness is the same as mold, just use dish soap. *I too am from reddit, I have just multiple names and trying to be completely anonymous.

[@rplay7202]

i always submerge it in water with a little bit of dish soap (at least until a little bubble can form but u can still see through the water clearly no white foam) and gently rub it with hand for the part you can rub . Then rinse it using bidet sprayer to clean the place that your finger cannot reach . Using bidet sprayer is safe right ? i think the pressure is good enough . not seeing any noticeable damage yet .

[@tacome81]

where can I buy the dishwashing paste ? I cant find a similar product online :0

[@EXkurogane]

It's sold in every supermarket actually. Brand doesn't matter

[@tacome81]

Thank you !

[@nozilasama]

Paint trasnfer work for me is pencil eraser and alcohol is enough

[@nozilasama]

Want to try the hydrogen peroxide for yellowish white paint figure with thebpower of sun it can make it white

[@kotobugi]

Personally, I love to use Tamiya anti-static brush+ cleaning gel (Make sure that the condition of cleaning gel still good and not stuck to hand) that use for clean dust on keyboard to clean dust off figure. Not sure it corrects or not but the resin repair shop in my local said it is good way to clean dust. I knew tamiya brush is a bit pricy compared to makeup brush but yea I feel when compared to figure prices that I need to clean I kinda feel it not that bad ig

[@EXkurogane]

if you can get your hands on specialized tools for cleaning figures specifically, that is definitely even better

[@JPCollectables]

Ive used a combination of hydrogen peroxide and UV light to remove yellowing on sneakers with icy soles before. Curious if the addition of UV would effect the results on an anime figure..

[@DJHEADPHONENINJA]

oooh, that kind of sticky... damn. gotta keep looking...

[@marcocacalano3780]

Hello, very interesting video, I have a problem of stickiness with my Kotobukiya Bishoujo Batgirl, she loses gold painting from gloves, boots and belt. It’s a manufacturing defect since the day I bought it, not something that I noticed after years. Tried everything but now I’m gonna find that dishwashing paste, I hope it will work!!! Thanks

[@EXkurogane]

Gold paint is actually notorious for melting off figures

[@ZeeengMicro]

Any tips for Silicone body figure? I'm pre-ordering one and heard you can easily damage the silicone if you are not careful.

[@xianfa1708]

i do not advice melamine foams as theyre very abrasive wille turn any matte finish surface into glossy appearance aside from damaging de sealing surface of a figure, which will lead to mor plasticizer bleeding (depends on the figures/dolls)

[@EXkurogane]

Despite how fast i appear to rub the surface i wasn't putting much pressure or force. Do that and yes you'll sand off the protective layer of the figure. If that happens you have the option to respray the clear coat on your own, ideally via an airbrush.

[@leandroclarence6988]

thankyou for the tutorial! much appreciated! by the way, after using levelling thinner, do the matte coat finish disappear? i’ve seen many figures have partial glossy finish on the matte skin.

[@EXkurogane]

I applied and removed the thinner in cycles exactly for that reason - to minimize the risk of affecting the clear coat. But clear coat is something you can aways top on on your own if you wish - i recommend buying the bottled ones, dilute them and doing it with an airbrush though.

[@nejano6596]

Thank you for this useful video 🙏 Been trying to find ways to treat my sticky nendo. May I ask if any brand for detergent and detergent paste will work or it specifically has to be Mr DIY detergent paste :0 ?

[@EXkurogane]

You're welcome. With detergent it is not brand specific.

[@rey0107]

I’m nervous with that camera shaking and might be falling. Be careful not to drop them.

[@ProxMackintosh]

Hi, do you suggest using new toothbrushes for this?

[@EXkurogane]

Yes. And buy very soft ones

[@RazzySensei]

Would repainting work if i do see initrinsic stains on my figure if i am able to find the right color

[@EXkurogane]

Repainting is actually the only option. And ideally you'll want to paint the entire thigh portion in my nyaruko figure example, instead of just that one spot so that the color blends better

[@megamilk1924]

8:44 I have such a defect/stain on Goodsmile's Marin Kitagawa bikini version. Right on her chest. Looks almost like a hickey. ❤️‍🔥

[@jescha5830]

Thank you for your informative video! I have two questions: Some figures have a glossy dark/brown surface. Over time the gloss fades. Is there a way to restore or add the shine of glossy surface? Sometimes I see small white dots. Would thinner work? They are very small, but I am not sure if thinner or anything else would work. I am even questioning if the trouble is worth.

[@EXkurogane]

If you are brave enough, you will need to apply the gloss on your own but you will need very specialized tools. Tamiya and Mr. Color has options for clear coating in small bottles, ranging from matte to semi gloss, super gloss and even pearl finish. Which one matches your figure, well, you test it on a plastic spoon and just eyeball it, see which one you like best. Ideally you can't just handbrush it like that unless you have a certain level of skill. Normally what people do is dilute it with levelling thinner starting at 1:1 ratio or thinner than that, and use an airbrush because you need only a very thin and even layer. You will need to mask the parts you don't want the gloss, but at the same time air brushing clear coating is a lot easier than air brushing diluted paint to repaint a figure. As for white dots appearing out of nowhere, that certainly isn't paint so it might be mold. After all there are various different types of fungus. You might want to try brushing with toothpaste first.

[@keip4568]

Apple advice! 🍎

[@justnas7988]

How does it gets sticky, I'm curious? Is it becauss of weather?

[@InfamyOrDeath-__-]

More than likely caused by the heat.

[@EXkurogane]

Hot weather + high humidity levels in the air, and poor airflow (figures closed up in boxes, airtight display cabinets).

[@gabrielmario7098]

some old figures can get sticky even if vented, is just because the plasticizer begins to leak from the pvc. it doesn't matter the conditions is a chemical process that happens after years, newer figures doesn't seem to have this problem though. but seems that is more prone with heat.

[@Takodate]

How do you go about submerging large or parts of large figures into the cleaning solution?

[@EXkurogane]

i wouldnt dump too many figures into one single bucket of cleaning solution because paint transfer can happen when multiple different parts with a different surface texture and color rub against each other. If you choose to do so then just use a bigger container and more detergent of course

[@Takodate]

@@EXkurogane sorry i don't mean a large number of figures I mean 1 single larger figure, like a 1/4 scale figure but it's only part of the figure that is sticky?

[@anasanchez1335]

​@@Takodatepuedes usar un trapo impregnado 🤔🤔🤔

[@buzzsawkhan]

I'm surprised that using air, such as compressed air like we would use cleaning a PC, is not effective.

[@EXkurogane]

Unlike on a pc which is metal, the surface of figures are probably better at retaining and keeping dust stuck to it. Different materials

[@fairybro]

i tried magic sponge once on a external stain. but that wiped the colour off the base figure ✘‎ࡇ✘ for coloured parts gotta be careful. i don't dare to use thinner on coloured parts also.

[@EXkurogane]

Yes, in the end it is an abrasive. Sometimes you feel the urge to use for force when it is not coming off and what you did was akin to using sand paper to remove the paint. While I appeared rub very fast with the sponge, i wasn't applying much pressure or force.

[@fairybro]

@@EXkurogane right i should gently rub then..good to know 🙏

[@anasanchez1335]

Las partes coloreadas creo que es mejor repintarlas pedirle ayuda a tu pintor de figuras de dnd de confianza