How to Clean Top Rope Anchors and Rappel | AMGA SPI Guide Shows Anchor Cleaning and Rappelling

#Climbing #RockClimbing #Rappelling
Jason Schmaltz is a certified AMGA SPI Guide and shows how when rock climbing the proper way to clean top rope anchors and rappel. Rappelling after cleaning anchors is dangerous and setting up the rappel correctly can help reduce climbing risk.

[@bsoli5342]

Great complete step by step with explanation as to why you were doing it. Been hard to find a video like that. Will be watching more of your content for sure. Thanks

[@summitseekersexperience]

Thanks! yeah, I hope you get a lot out of my content!

[@mattprouse10]

I like the use of the extended rappel as an extra backup. I'll put that in my bag of tricks for sure!

[@johntatman9168]

Jason you do an amazing job explaining this and keeping it simple. The one thing that might be helpful would be touching on the need for some adjustability to your personal anchor. We never know when we get to the anchor chains/bolts etc just how close/far we may have to position ourselves from them. I will be telling all my new climbers to watch this video, great job.

[@summitseekersexperience]

Thanks John, yes, I think we are going to make a video focused on different PAS systems as I am getting a lot of questions and interest on this where we will highlight exactly what you are asking with the different systems.

[@RennerFoto]

Great info!

[@tailee9068]

This is really good thanks!!!!!!!! Exactly what I'm looking for

[@summitseekersexperience]

Glad I could help!

[@UNS33NSHAD0W]

very cool thanks!

[@summitseekersexperience]

for sure

[@terriblegamers2213]

Quite a bit going on with 2 personal anchors and the tether with the extended rappel. Good to be extra safe but it makes it more confusing and cluttered. Great video though!

[@summitseekersexperience]

Ha… this video is so old, I need to take these ones off

[@jairoramirez9126]

Great video! What model of slings you use for the extended rappel, and the anchor system?

[@summitseekersexperience]

Trango Dyneema slings or black diamond nylon

[@henrywilliams4236]

Could you use the 60 cm sling as your primary personal anchor, and the 120 cm extended rappel sling as the secondary personal anchor? To save on space around the hard points and belay loop? Or would that not be a good system because of the potential to shock load the 120 if the 60 fails? Thanks for the great content!

[@summitseekersexperience]

Potentially that could work if you put an overhand knot in the middle of the 120 that you could clip in side by side with the 60 cm anchor so you wouldn't have a shock load if the 60 failed. Definitely do NOT use the 60 and 120 side by side where the 120 would extend fully if the 60 failed. I'd recommend going simple though if you are new to cleaning anchors and just use the two 60's, then you don't have to think.

[@henrywilliams4236]

@@summitseekersexperience After doing a little thinking and experimentation, I have to agree. If you are rappelling, do you always keep the 120 just coiled up on your harness, and put it on when necessary? I'm trying to figure out a way to keep it attached to avoid the chance of dropping it while on the wall. Thanks man, learning a lot from you!

[@capacapa9733]

​@@summitseekersexperience hello can i ask why do you use two 60cm slings? Why is one not enough?

[@ambientdreamwaves]

Amazing content! I have a new climber question, I've heard both arguments as to why you should or shouldn't lower or rappel. People who climb mostly overhanging sport routes will say, “Always lower: It's more efficient and safer.” People who climb mostly vertical or slabby routes will say, “Always rappel: It preserves the anchors.” What is your take on this?

[@summitseekersexperience]

Lowering is probably the best way and if your crag allows it, I'd recommend it on any route. On an overhang route, there is no way to effectively clean it on rappel so you have to lower. When in doubt, I'd recommend lowering.

[@ambientdreamwaves]

@@summitseekersexperience Thank you!

[@Nerd2k7]

12:12 anyone who uses this video to lower themselves should have a hand on the prusik/klemmheist and the other hand on the rope underneath it. The hand on the prusik should slowly slide downwards while the main hand (the one underneath the prusik) controls the speed of the abseil. @summitseekersexperience please drop the video or add a note / or redo that scene due to the incorrect way how to abseil in that manner. Thanks for the video!

[@alexandersharp352]

why would tmyou clip your toperope anchor to the rap rings... metal on metal bro clip to the hangars

[@summitseekersexperience]

Uh… the hangers are metal too.

[@alexandersharp352]

@@summitseekersexperience yeah but you don't put your rope through the hangars do you? scarred rings damage rope sheathing.

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

very poor. You only have one stopper know so if you hit the end of the rope your coming off THIS IS DANGEROUS VIDEO.

[@asdfalksjdf]

In this scenario he came from a top rope and converted to a rappel. The stopper knot on the other end of the rope would already be there as part of the standard practice of closing the loop when starting top rope.

[@DVMCellini]

don't quit your day job. oh wait you don't have one.

[@arcranda]

This comment was needlessly rude. Why would you post this from your professional account? Is this the way you treat clients?

[@DVMCellini]

@@arcranda because he’s my best friend of 30 years :)