How to Convert Starlink to 12V DC Power

[@sparksfamilyhomestead]

A nice and good review. I understand your senario. But for me personally, my bluetti 600 watt mini solar generator was only 198.00 vs the 150ish on the DC converter. For very little more and being very simple minded, and having a UPS ability, I would still stay with the simplicty of my mini solar generator. But, again, you did a great job in the review. I am sure it will help many people.

[@CompassCustomCreations]

Great review! Thanks so much for posting this. Really enjoyed the tour of your Scamp trailer, those things are cool! 🙂

[@yougeekyou]

Recommend putting some furring strips of wood (1x1 or 1x2) screwed to the floor and then mounting the DishyNOAC on top of that to get it up off the floor. You have PEX water lines right there behind the DishyNOAC unit and if there's a leak, your device gets wet. Either that or pick another location all together. I did this for my 3rd party router my SL is running through as it sits on the floor in a space under my furnace where my shower drain line runs through. I get that your camper is tiny and maybe there isn't any other location that would work. That DishyNOAC is slick though.. I used separate DC-DC converter and a POE injector.

[@stevea9604]

Just about to write that great observation 👍🏻

[@Lapeerphoto]

Great Explanation!

[@rd4660]

But...most of us use our inverter for DC power, so the power usage is much higher when you use your inverter making the DishyNOAC much more energy efficient.

[@rd4660]

Correction, we use our inverter for AC power.

[@sgriffith2353]

It amazes me that Starlink doesn’t supply a piece of equipment to allow this easily now that they have options intended for mobile use.

[@hammer-r]

I just bought a 1500 watt Dc power converter off of Amazon that converts 10-60vdc to anything up to 90vdcI believe from another KZbinr that uses his in Africa. Also simple and I think only cost me $25. But this seems a bit easier.

[@GaryBird-lq6yx]

Great video. Thank you for posting. The DishyNOAC looks very similar to a few other units on the market (on Amazon). My suspicion is they are all the same manufacturer, board and enclosure with different brand labeling. How hot does the DishyNOAC enclosure get? I saw a report on the Starlink on Boats FB group where a very similar (if not the same) unit burned a hole in the encloser and almost started a fire on a sailboat.

[@Starvmount]

Thank you for your observation. We have specified entirely different components in manufacturing and collaborated closely with the manufacturer to deliver a product far superior to others that may appear similar. Our case material is specifically selected for its heat-resistant properties, and the internal heat sink is sized to match the unit. The case itself has additional vents and built-in feet to facilitate air circulation. Each unit is thoroughly tested before dispatch and comes with a unique serial number, allowing it to be traced back to its original batch and bench testing.

[@JeffSkymaster]

You forgot to ad the Inverter Conversion loss.

[@JimEdds]

Thanks for starv tip

[@gdegarimore]

NOT SURE WHATS HAPPENING WITH THE COMMENTS. It Keeps Deleting...

[@Browneye57]

My gen 3 uses 35-45W plugged into a solar generator with ice melt turned off. $100 to run DC would be tough to justify. I have solar panels to charge my generator.

[@christiansmet]

I don't understand that if the router powers the dish through POE, why you need to hook up the router 2 dish through the DishyNOAC. Wouldn't it just work if you would power only the router with the DishyNOAC and let the router power the dish? If you keep on using the original router.

[@StarlinkHardware]

That's one method, yes. The DishyNOAC, however, is set up for being able to use any router, not the Starlink one. They also designed it to be compatible with Gen 2 as well, which doesn't have the same option of just supplying the router with 56V DC like you can with Gen 3. The DishyNOAC also doesn't have DC output terminals to power the router, it just has POE through the Ethernet cable that goes to the dish.

[@UKnowItsTrue2]

@@StarlinkHardware I am confused as well. If the NOAC will create POE and supply the dish, and so will the Starlink router, why use POE. It looks like you powered the Starlink router with 12vdc, if you can connect it to 12vdc, what is the purpose of the NOAC unless you are using a different router.

[@divot00]

I just purchased the DishyNOAC connected everything (e.g. router power supply with barrel plug and 12 volt DC cigarrete lighter to use my Jackery 12V - same config as yours). I connected just like you had in the 1st part of your video. The Starlink dish works with no issues (mine is the same Gen 3 with the new router). Although, the router is not working. It appears to not be receiving enough power. It drops the wifi constantly and disappears. Not sure why yours has enough power (my assumption based on the disappearance and fading of the status light from full on, to blinking, to faded light) for the router and mine is not working. I have removed and reinstalled the wires, they have a solid connection. The voltmeter is showing about 12.7 volts on DishyNOAC. If you have any ideas I am open to them.

[@TheGuntar]

If you can borrow another router from somewhere. Any router and see if you can duplicate the same issues. If not then you have a Starlink router issue. If you can repeat the issues you either have a Dishy issue or power source issue. Then I would plug jackery into a AC wall outlet tp charge it and while charging see if you have router issues. If you don't then it's a Jackery issue. Yeah, it's really just a process of elimination. Not always the easiest or fastest. I hope this helps in some small way.

[@ThatGuyTravels]

So my question, why do I need a DishyNOAC if I’m using the barrel connector for the router? Couldn’t I just buy the DC barrel adapter and plug the Starlink directly into the router like normal and it would inject the power thru Ethernet? You might even get a slim savings of wattage.

[@StarlinkHardware]

Yes you could supply 56V DC through the DC barrel plug on the router. That involves more modifications and supplying a compatible DC converter. That’s what I was originally doing, but couldn’t find a decent 56V converter that I could recommend.

[@ThatGuyTravels]

@@StarlinkHardware 56vdc at how many amps?

[@jav_eee]

If the router takes 12v input then can't you just wire that power cord (the one you run from the NOAC to the router) directly to your RV/vehicle battery?

[@StarlinkHardware]

Yep, I just found this easier than running another separate power run just for the router. If you're asking about just supplying 12V to the Starlink router instead of bothering with the DishyNOAC, 12V only powers on the router functionality, it won't power the dish. You need to supply 56V to the Starlink router to get enough power to run the Standard dish off the router.

[@jav_eee]

@@StarlinkHardware got it. That was my confusion. So the dish needs 57v which the router (powered by 12v) cannot supply. Thanks.

[@craigkoh]

Looks like Starvmount only ships to the UK? Is anyone else seeing that?

[@craigkoh]

figured it out, look for the little flag in the top right... think I was too excited to get my order in :)

[@markratliff7991]

I do not see a "flag" to select. What is the price in USD?

[@RoryVanucchi]

I would have thought bigger difference. I run a Unique 12v fridge off the grid and much less draw overnight on goal zero, yet not need to run the investor. I'm not sure I love all the extra wires; Starlink should have that hardware simplified.

[@StarlinkHardware]

The Mini is the best option overall for power consumption and simplicity. It’s native DC powered. But since the Standard is more common and cheaper at the moment, lots of interest in converting it to DC.

[@RoryVanucchi]

@@StarlinkHardware@StarlinkHardware, thanks, leaning towards the strongest signal for cell service; I have plenty of batteries and a generator when needed.

[@denisdb725]

WOOOOOOW, 325 upload?????? But ONLY 10 MB download??????

[@diverdo]

Gen 2: does my Gen 2 antenna cable connector plug into the DishyNOAC 'just like' your Gen 3 cable does? that I don't have to cut my Starlink cable and separate out the power from the data and add an ethernet connector to it? thanks!

[@StarlinkHardware]

For Gen 2, you can use an adapter so you don’t have to cut the cable: amzn.to/4gJyHpa

[@24eric24]

Are we able to still use the starlink router? Their website says that it replaces the router and we need a separate Wi-Fi access point.

[@RV2Cycle]

The Gen 3 router is precisely what Colby is using in this video. If you go to 6:51 on this video he gives the details on how he has the starlink router connected to his DC set-up.

[@pauljohnston7700]

up/down reversed

[@CraigDouglas-j9q]

What is discount code? Thamk you

[@StarlinkHardware]

SLHARDWARE

[@WillKlaver]

.. when i think of all the guys who hacked their Unit before this, virtually Destroying It for Anything Else .. 🙄⚡🔋

[@eliasf2021]

This product takes forever to ship, and basically has no customer service

[@StarlinkHardware]

You're dealing with a small business vs a large corporation, and it does ship from overseas if you are in the US. But I prefer to support these smaller operations with high quality products vs some of the cheap junk you can find out there. The DishyNOAC certainly isn't the only option out there, just the one I choose to use and review.