Plug N Play Starlink 12v Conversion! Its SOOOO Easy! XTAR LINK Demo and Testing

[@bobbyredneck0013]

I really like the way you talk, you talk at a good pace, you sound clear and you present your videos very well. Your channel is one of the ones I enjoy watching the most along with Hobotech of course. Keep it up Jasanoid 👍

[@i_LOVE_solar]

This is much easier than other "DIY" options I have seen for Starlink, pretty cool! Thanks for sharing!

[@twloughlin]

Don't have any need for Starlink, but the comment helps the algorithm, and I'm sure the device will help those who need it.

[@jeffhumphrey873]

This was so helpful, thank you! I was trying to determine if getting a DC power adapter for starlink would be worthwhile over the AC adapter, and you easily helped me understand the power consumption on each. Great channel, I appreciate what you do!

[@MatthewYBarbo]

With this type of technology ever changing, it's always appreciated when new products are shown and broken down like this. Great job explaining, and thanks for sharing!

[@tumbleweed1976]

Excellent video as usual.

[@Jasonoid]

Thanks!

[@litnoregrets7551]

What a unique and interesting video. Thank you. I have been considering something like this.

[@Jasonoid]

It's nice to have if you need internet remotely. Like if you have a cabin or something 👍 all you need is an open sky and you get internet!

[@johnnysweekends]

Excellent video Jason. Much needed item especially if running even larger inverters the spread will be great. Simple hook up too 👍🏼

[@zen1647]

Awesome review! I'd love to see a lot more devices using POE.

[@johntate5284]

It's great to see you diversifying away from mostly power stations and solar! With some supposed price reductions for Star Link, i'm sure the popularity is going to grow even more and this solution for true DC operation is great. I wonder if they have a 48 volt version as this could plug directly into the 48 volt output of the Bluetti AC200L which could potentially save even more power by removing that 12 V to 48 V step up power loss. Maybe one day, we will get a large power station with 12 volt 30A, 48 volt 8 to 10A, and a small separate internal 300 watt inverter to run this small loads without having to turn on the big inverter. Can always hope! Thanks for another great review!

[@Jasonoid]

Usually doing a video out of my normal niche, the video performs horribly. We'll see what happens to this one. KZbin isn't smart enough to recommend this video outside of my normal viewer base. That's why I don't really do other videos on the channel. Right now this video is performing 8th out of my last 10 videos so not to popular.

[@djeskay.7945]

Perfect, I can still use the app, that's all i needed to know

[@KatysCampKitchen]

Super interesting! Looks like a great product! My 2x 100W XTAR panels are still performing great!

[@Jasonoid]

Those are great panels!

[@rahdo]

hey there, thank you for this video, a real help. I'm going to order one of these and I wanted to use your discount code from the shownotes but the XTAR website said it's not valid. do you have a new one?

[@Jasonoid]

I don't have a new code, unfortunately. Sorry about that!

[@rahdo]

@@Jasonoid no problem. i used your affiliate url anyway and hopefully you got some deserved credit for that! thanks again :)

[@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk]

Starlink should natively offer a 12v option. I would think that most people who use Starlink also run other appliances on their 12v system, some of them AC. I know I do. In that case the idle draw becomes meaningless. An extra solar ps el or bigger power station are often better investments. And $200 is not exactly cheap. I can buy a used iPad for that money. Native support is what we really need

[@Jasonoid]

The Starlink costs around $500 to $600 for the hardware and gen 2 is around $150 a month. If you have a Starlink in the first place money is not an issue lol... I totally agree about the native 12v support. Not sure what they were thinking there. The new mini Starlink dish supports 12v natively 👍

[@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk]

@@Jasonoid yes, the mini I guess is considered backpack portable. Anything under 100 watt should offer 12v dc support.

[@davidwilcove8846]

Thank you.. when I get back to USA (I’m in Mexico Boondocking till spring I don’t know if you can ship that down here or not If u can then it would go to La Paz I’ll be back thanks for all the work you did.😊👍

[@jw3843]

Looks like a great option. If I ever get start link I will want on of those.

[@Jasonoid]

It's a simple solution! Thanks for watching

[@omglivetv1]

Thanks, Good info!!

[@gary6212]

Exactly what I was looking for!

[@Noelshepherd]

Hey Jason, Did you see the new Ecoflow solar panel hat? They are taking preorders starting August. I’m not kidding.

[@Jasonoid]

Nah, didn't see that yet lol

[@markmonroe7330]

Excellent presentation. Thank you. So far, you have taken the youtuber lead with regards to showing and explaining the power loses of both the DC and AC regulation/inverter. I am finding more and more that knowing this is critical to longer trips. Some thoughts.. This would be tougher to figure out but knowing the actual "watt loss" on DC/USB/AC conversions within the unit itself would really help. Starlink Mini will run on USB-C PD but will also run on 12v - which DC option has the least internal loss on my Bluetti/Pecron? As best I can tell, there is a higher watt loss on higher loads. So for example, what is the DC or AC inverter loss in watts per hour at this points - 0 watts, 100 watts, 500 watts, 1000 watts - do the AC internal inverters losses in watts increase as the load increases? As per some of your videos, I use external lithium batteries to "charge" or supplement my main unit (Bluetti/Precron/etc). I am finding there there is a loss there as well through the MPPT controller - for example, I may be inputting 100 watts into the unit but only 90 watts actually seems to making into the cells of the Pecron/Bluetti. Losing 10-15-20 watts per hour internally to the unit itself is a lot over several days when you are remote and have to use solar or alternator to keep things going.

[@Jasonoid]

To find the exact power loss of the inverter I'd need to disassemble the power station in a way it would still turn on so when the AC inverter is on I could put a clamp meter on the main battery terminals.

[@ZIlberbot]

I use some Xtar products, including their well known 100W solar panel, not bad!

[@Jasonoid]

They make great products!

[@NatureZone101]

Very interesting. I guess I have to have some idea how the Starlink works and costs, etc before I can understand the whole thing. Don't even know yet if Starlink is a "Home" option to replaces regular cable/phone internet monopolies.

[@Jasonoid]

Yeah. It can replace home internet but it's fairly expensive. It's meant to be a last resort option. Cable and fiber internet are much cheaper but can be accessed everywhere.

[@zen1647]

@@Jasonoid I think you meant to say that cable and fiber internet **can't** be accessed anywhere.

[@zen1647]

@@NatureZone101 The main uses of Starlink are for people who are not covered by cable/fiber, or for people that move around a lot (in an RV for example). If you're in an RV you might be running off grid using solar and batteries which is why making it as efficient as possible using only DC is great!

[@davevanboal3669]

I am considering this option because I damaged the connector inside the starlink router and the proprietary starlink cable connector while trying to connect the two. What I would really like to do is remove the proprietary connector from Starlink cable and replace it with an RJ45 connector. Can you recommend a wiring diagram to wire the RJ45 connector directly into this device bypassing the Dishy adapter. Please note i am comfortable with crimping RJ45 connectors.

[@megadesertdiesel1468]

I bought the kit when it came out and the upgraded router was not available, i can tell you its a serious choke point and my speeds are very slow. I'm currently looking for a better router. Wow i just looked at their site and its completely different from when i ordered on 6/21/24. And now they have an option for better router, well goo for new buyers. Any recommendations for a fast 12v router for RV use?

[@Sawadventures67]

Can you still use the Starlink app when using one of these aftermarket routers and 12 V? I cannot seem to find any videos that explain Setup using the Starlink app?

[@Jasonoid]

Yes, the Starlink App connects to the satellite receiver, not the router. You can still control the 'aim' and 'snow melt' features through the smart app.

[@UpandAboutPhotography-2025]

Do you know what the diameter of the DC5521 cable is ? I already have a 12V router but its power input is either USB-C or USB-A. I can get a DC5521 to USB-C but I need to know the size of the DC5521 end of the cable.

[@peterdement]

For $200 (the cost of this specialized device) consider buying an additional 100AH lithium battery

[@WillProwse]

Good point

[@Jasonoid]

I guess it all depends on the situation but that extra battery would definitely off set the usage of the inverter! Haha

[@claycassin8437]

You would need another 200 watts of solar to charge that, which could be a tough ask on a sailboat, for example. In that scenario, the most efficient use of your existing capacity/solar would be the better choice. This device is perfect for that. It would be quite useful for rv's and vans, too.

[@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk]

Or an extra solar panel

[@twomonger8538]

fair enough but that’s like saying $200 is several MWh of electricity. the value of efficiency isn’t so straightforwardly calculated if space or area is limited. extra efficiency can be worth more than the simple incremental cost

[@peterhessels2903]

You're the best Wasted a bunch of time then got the answers right here..

[@KU9L]

I sm surprised there is not a Starlink Mini kit yet as speed tests using a 3rd party router show it to be 95% as fast with 1/2 the power draw of the Gen3. Camp Hosting in the USFS with a lot of wind & rain/hail/snow one always is trying to maximize power production & minimize power consumption. Cheers, Davey - KU9L

[@Jasonoid]

The starlink mini runs off 12-48v DC, including USBc already, no need to have a DC power supply like this 👍 I have one and it's sweet to power it from USBc.

[@KU9L]

@Jasonoid I think a 100 Watt USB-C PD could be powered from my homemade power center with 40ah of Lion Energy Lifepo4 batteries. I will get the waterproof RJ-45 adapters on the dish end so I can run it down to my home router, also USB-C (5 volt version). She supports 50 campgrounds ordering TP & firewood so connectivity is important for those Zoom meetings with corporate. Cheers, Davey - KU9L

[@ebubennadi8247]

Why not Starlink create a Power pack for external battery (EV Grade) so AC power not be the only thing to get it working

[@Jasonoid]

That would be excellent if Starlink did that!

[@ebubennadi8247]

@@Jasonoid That's the next big move they need to make

[@smallqwaro]

This is definitely gonna save me more battery

[@joannmedna]

Does it work for the third and second generation?

[@Jasonoid]

They have models for both the 2nd gen and 3rd gen.

[@joannmedna]

Is there any difference in the wiring from the second generation to the third?​@@Jasonoid

[@Jasonoid]

@@joannmedna not sure, I haven't tested the third gen. It can't be too different. The 3rd device looks similar the the 2nd gen.

[@joannmedna]

@@Jasonoid Do you know if you can also put it into sleep mode with another router that you put in it?

[@Jasonoid]

@@joannmedna if you do that via the Starlink app, then yes.

[@ShawBecham]

Can I run this with my 300watt inverter ?

[@Jasonoid]

Yes

[@ShawBecham]

@Jasonoid like how many hours it can last on 300watt inverter, because I can only run my SL with DC in 2-3 hours, from %100 to %5

[@Jasonoid]

@@ShawBecham runtime is calculated by the size of your battery.

[@ShawBecham]

@@Jasonoid how can I calculate it please ?? 🥰

[@Jasonoid]

@@ShawBecham watt hours of your battery, divided by watts of your load = runtime in hours 1000wh battery / 100 watts = 10 hours runtime.

[@thirdnut1]

Starlink mini if you leave your main starlink at home. But not good for long term travel.

[@Jasonoid]

They sure charge more momey for that Starlink mini!

[@thirdnut1]

@@Jasonoid initially, yes. $30/month for the camping season isn't bad.

[@Jasonoid]

I'm showing the mini roam price of $50 a month, where did you see the $30 a month?

[@thirdnut1]

@@Jasonoid it's $30/month if you have a standard residential also. Shows right on my statement.

[@AdventureGearTV]

Hi Jason, Your affiliate link is truncated.

[@Jasonoid]

Weird, I'll try to fix it, the discount code will still track the sale also.

[@wt9653]

I don't need this just to save about 70 wh. During the day, I'll plug it into a solar panel. I'll let the power station do the rest during the night. I'm glad to hear you know the difference between bits and bytes. So many people with IT knowledge on KZbin still refer to it as bytes. 😢

[@Frank-xp3xd]

Nice option but around 200 bucks. You can do the math in how many years this will pay for itself by saving a few watts.

[@teuton6167]

First!

[@smallqwaro]

Like anyone gives a shit

[@Jasonoid]

How nice of you 👍

[@kevinholland4156]

@@smallqwaro If you don't have anything to add to this video; just spin on.