How To Correctly Install a Front Wheel on a Dirt Bike

[@aaronsmith7418]

i got told to compress the forks while the last 2 pinch bolts love the tips ect❤

[@frasermacmannis614]

Love refresher tips like this! Keep them up!

[@066motocross]

Thanks for a very helpful video on installing the front wheel. That's a great method of correctly centering the wheel 😊

[@verdonrocksphotography3510]

love the axel handle, very cool, thnx

[@chein33]

Another great video, man, I wish we had lighting like that.😅😅

[@outty77]

Any benefit to compressing the forks a few times instead of just jostling the front wheel while it's in the air? Are they equally effective at aligning the forks?

[@hipolitomorales3184]

Make a review on awd enduro bike

[@yodavizion]

Thank you 🫡🇺🇸

[@robertm7717]

Or just take it off the stand and pump up and down and compress the front end and put it back on the stand and tighten the pinch bolts

[@CLY0556]

Or just leave it on the stand, spin the front wheel as hard as you can, and grab the front brake hard a few times

[@aaronmcelhinney1436]

As long as you loosen the lower triple clamps and the axle pinch bolts. If you don’t do both, you haven’t been doing it right.

[@keithclyde733]

True ,if you're triple clamps are out of alignment then you are in a bind.

[@robertm7717]

@@CLY0556 true I like putting actual compression strokes setting the forks

[@ridesingles]

Little tip instead of using a screwdriver to open up your brake pads. Press against the caliper with your knee before you pull the wheel out, that will open up your pads and save you accidentally damaging your pads with a screwdriver

[@ekimgb69]

I much prefer using the motion pro tool.

[@drzrider3440]

So while i have been riding all my life. This part always confuses me. So basically do not tighten you front axle so there is no play on the axle? This is the part that doesnt make sense to me. Everyone thats shows this has different ways to show this. But if your forks are not up against the hub on both side. Then it will allow the front wheel to move from side to side. Which is a bad thing. Yes its only a small amount. But if doing 80mph around a tight corner on pavement and that front wheel is allowed to move even the tiniest bit, you will crash. If therr is even a half mm of movement. Then your day will end badly. This is the part that to me makes zero sense at all. Maybe im thinking too much. But of each fork at the bottom are not up against the hub, it will in fact allow the wheel itself or the hub to move from fork to fork. Am i wrong? If I am wrong, please explain a bit more. Im always fighting my front end on my DRZ400. Just recenlty rebuilt both forks as well. Installed an after market fork brace as well. I know a ton and work on a ton of bikes for free for our club memebers at The PNW Dual sport group. But for some reason, this procedure just confuses me.

[@066motocross]

If your doing 80 around tight turns on asphalt you need to trade your dirt bike for a sport bike. The clearance was taken out when he spun the wheel and hit left to right lock.

[@drzrider3440]

@066motocross well i grew up on sport bikes and raced them a number of years. But that was in the 80's and 90's. So i still have that in my blood. But the gap is not taken up. As thats why i asked. He tightened the bolt only once. Then moved it around. That does not take up the space. As you still would need to tighten the bolt/nut again after moving it. The slack still exists. Thats why i ask. I know its right, but until you tighten the but after moving it around. It is not tight agaist the hub yet. So my question is, is that how it is suppose to be done? Cause if so, i am doing it wrong. Which is why im lost. 1, he tighten RH side pinch bolts, 2 tightened nut, 3 wiggled it aroud to loos the binding, 4 tighten the pinch bolts. Finished....oops, still some slack. Thats where i get lost.

[@BikesandBlickeys]

Axle in, tighten right side pinch bolts, axle nut, left side pinch bolts, then loosen the right side pinch bolts. Spin the wheel like he says, or hold brake and push down to compress forks to let the right side fork lug find where it wants to be, then tighten right side pinch bolts. If you still have slop in your wheel it sounds like it’s time for new wheel bearings

[@drzrider3440]

@BikesandBlickeys nope replaced bearings every 10,000 miles. I must be just not getting it. Cause if you loosen after the first initial snug up, to let it fall into place. That means that there is room left. And thats my point. If you need to wiggle it around. Or like most do by pushing down on forks a few times, by letting it fall into its natural place, by that alone means there is room for it to move around between the end of the axle bolt and the hub. So i take it that its not required to be tight inbetween the axle and the hub. Or in otherwords the forks are tight up against the hub and tbe axle ends. That probably where. Getting messed up. Must have to not have forks tight against hub and end of axle. I build airplanes for a living and everything is tight up against everything. Zero room for wiggles.

[@jondoe4667]

I'm with you man. I didn't see him do anything that would've tightened up that gap. I also spin the wheel and hit the brake to align everything but I make sure when I'm done my axle nut has tightened both fork lugs firmly against the wheel spacers.

[@richardhartley7094]

👍👍

[@TRAVERSE_ADV]

Pump the forks...

[@billrogers3697]

While at it, change the seals and fork oil 👍

[@ktmhaka]

Stick to bike reviews Kyle….

[@UTPP]

It's a good instruction, but i've seen better, you don't talk about the horizontal axis and the importance of the axle not binding when sliding through.

[@michealburnett7877]

Yeah, that adds a whole nother 15 min. to the video. especaily if you have removed the lwft or both of the forks.

[@DirtSquirty]

Be careful with the axle puller, it’s touching your fork guard and that can prevent the fork from free floating and centering correctly