How to cut accurate spirals in wood dowels

This video demonstrates the usage of my wood dowel spiral jig which I used in construction of the BIG Tower Crane model. This version is much safer than trying to use a router, and much more accurate than trying to free-hand it on a lathe.
Links to my books:
The BIG Dozer : www.amazon.com/BIG-Dozer-step...
The BIG Truck : www.amazon.com/BIG-Truck-step...
The BIG Steam Roller : www.amazon.com/BIG-Steam-Roll...
The BIG Tower Crane : www.amazon.com/BIG-Tower-Cran...
Links to the Saw Blades used :
1/8” Slotting Blade : I found a cheaper one! www.amazon.com/HSS-Slitting-S...
1/8” Metal Cutting Blade : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
4” Crosscut Blade : www.amazon.com/uxcell-Circula...

[@woodsmokemirrors703]

Great information! Thanks!

[@ifiwooddesigns]

I’m fascinated by making spirals on wood. I just bought a tool for it, but really liked your jig and wished you had plans or a video on how you made it.

[@s.g.devries8557]

As of right now, the only drawn plans and instructions for the spiral jig are in my book “The BIG Tower Crane.” There are about six pages in the beginning showing how to build the jig and set it up correctly (with scale drawings). I will have another book out in about a month called “The BIG Skid Loader” (much shorter and easier the the crane book) that will also have the plans in it, as I use a segment of spiral rod in that book also. At some point I will have a book of just jigs and tools, but I’m only one person so it might be a while. Thanks for your comment!

[@joeschlotthauer840]

What tool did you buy...

[@ifiwooddesigns]

@@joeschlotthauer840 i bought the Beale tool. It’s amazing and so simple.

[@owentp]

@@s.g.devries8557 I just got your skid loader book in for the plans for the jig. It's all understandable except for the part of cutting grooves in the bottom of the body of the jig. I have the angles 8-10 degrees made. But are those supposed to be a certain overall width, length?? Then do you move those angles with the wood or keep that stationary & just slide the block along it? Sorry not a master wood craftsman. Any help appreciated!

[@s.g.devries8557]

@@owentp the slots in the bottom of the spiral jig don’t have to be any specific width or length. In fact they can be wider than shown. They are just clearance so you can set the jig angle easily without binding on the saw blade. The entire jig then gets clamped on at an angle. I have a separate video showing the use of this jig if you are interested in seeing it in action.

[@Sisyphus639]

Love the details, keep up the great work!! Sub'd

[@jimcobb7019]

Do you have a video on how you made your jig to do the Spirals or do you have plans that you can offer on a video? I’m interested in making spirals. And thanks for your consideration

[@rwboehm4068]

The ID of the slotting blade is !", larger than my JET TS. How did you adapt the hole size to your saw?

[@s.g.devries8557]

I bought an arbor adapter ring from the saw manufacturer with the specified diameter that I needed for the saw blade. Cost about $8 plus shipping, but completely worth it in my opinion.

[@everettneil6860]

How do make internal threads

[@s.g.devries8557]

Thank you for mentioning this. I forgot to mention in the video that my next video is about making flange plates/threads that work with these spiral rods.

[@hakanwesterberg9297]

how are you douing the nut??

[@s.g.devries8557]

I don't have a technique for doing the nut yet. Right now I just use angled flanges that will ride in the grooves.

[@joeschlotthauer840]

There has to be something in the dowel jig to control the feed...

[@s.g.devries8557]

Yes and no. If you use a slotting blade on your saw the blade itself is the feed mechanism. Since you can't push wood sideways into a slotting blade (no cutting edges protruding beyond the flat of the blade) the groove that is cut on the front half of the blade tracks on the rear half of the spinning blade. Does that make sense? It also works with carbide tipped blades if you are careful, but it is much easier to screw those up. The blade naturally wants to cut in a straight line so unless you force the dowel in or hold it back, the blade will cut straight. It takes some practice, but once you have the feel of it, you can cut groove after groove with no problem. thanks for the comment.