How to Diagnose & Repair a Septic System - Alarm, Pump & Control Panel

Рет қаралды 9,676

8 ай бұрын

How to Diagnose and Fix a Septic System (Alarm, Pump & Control Panel). In this video I walk you through the process of narrowing down septic system problems that you may encounter at the control panel box, with the Alarm Float Switch and the Pump Float Switch and Pump. You will watch me open up the control panel and go through the wiring to check both the septic pump bar and alarm board. I will also open up the septic tank to check the wiring, floats and pump. Then I will disconnect the outlet discharge pipe, that the pump sends the fluids out into the septic field, so we can test and replace the septic alarm float and check the septic pump and float.
In the end, I think you will learn a lot about diagnosing, fixing and replacing septic system components saving you money, time and frustration.
#septictankrepair #septicsystem #septicsystemrepair
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Disclaimer:
Although I have been following these procedures for many years; I assume no liability for any damage that may occur to any person or property as a result of the information provided in this video. I take necessary precautions (that I am aware of) when working on these projects but that in no way implies or creates any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any kind of particular result. Any injury, damage or loss of any kind to anyone or their property or anything related to information in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Helping U Online (this video).

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@bobf.7238 4 ай бұрын

If the new float is just a switch, it doesn't consume power, it just switches it. If this is the case, you have misunderstood the Amp rating. The higher current, 13 Amp float will "switch" more current than the 5-Amp unit you bought. Therefore, the 13-Amp unit is better as it will work with a wider range of panels. If the circuits in your panel that are switched by the float are under 5-Amps, then the float you got is fine but it would not be safe in a panel that needs to have more than 5-Amps switched. The 5-Amp float will likely have smaller gauge wires and lighter switch contacts and usually be cheaper to manufacture than the heavier 13-Amp unit.