How to Dismantle a Paraffin Kerosene Petrole Heater - Quick and Easy

[@alanomalley8136]

Hi there, Thank you so much for the link! Cleaned the flame rod like you said working brilliant, the. Only thing is now the thermostat doesn't t o be working as it did. Thanks again Alan

[@EngineTuning]

Great news that you fixed it :) Re the thermostat. If it has gone problematic after dismantling, it could be something that you did. At least you can get to it all by simply removing the front cover. Maybe you will spot the problem. It could be a dodgy connection.

[@TheCheesenChips]

Bought one of these heaters second hand, puts out tons of heat but does have a paraffin smell while it's running. Do they usually have a bit of a smell while running. I use C1 paraffin by the way.

[@EngineTuning]

Most of the stink comes from starting the heater from cold. ... I catch it in a bag, and throw it out ;) Once running, there should be almost no odour at all. Obv, this depends on one's sensitivity. You can add acetone at 1% to raise the burn efficiency :)

[@yunowot]

Another corker. Thanks.

[@EngineTuning]

Much appreciated :)

[@peterfleming7709]

I have a Zibro LC30 heater. It has worked well last winter, however I have moved home to an altitude of about 1,400 meters. The heater now constantly makes 'squeaking' noise when burning. I believe this is because it is not getting enough oxygen and needs to have the draft opened. Problem is I cannot find a draft adjuster. Can you advise if there is one and how to find & adjust?

[@EngineTuning]

Great question Peter. There is surely a way to recalibrate the fuel delivery to produce a leaner mixture, however I have never looked into this. Rather like bags of crisps and general snacks; products are adjusted for altitude at the factory. If you carry a packet of crisps up a mountain, it will become balloon-like. Similarly, if you buy a packet of crisps at altitude (say Andorra); when you go back down to sea level, the crisp bag appears to have no air in it ... because it was produced for sale in Andorra, or other high altitude destinations. Motorcyclists (should) carry extra jets when exploring high altitudes ;) For you, it may be the same. You may need to change the needle in the fuel injector (in your heater), or change the injector assembly. That's the nozzle that protrudes into the fuel well. You will need to research the alternative injectors available to you. However, there is an easy alternative... At each fill of fuel, you can add acetone. You will determine the quantity by trial and error. Start at 1% - 10ml per litre. Look at the condition of the flame - has it lost the yellowness ... it should be a nice blue. Obviously, if you have a heat sensor pistol, you can read the temperature before, and after ... but your eyesight will tell you, and your nose ... it will smell less. Then add another 10ml per litre (to make 2%). Check the flame again. My guess is that you'll only need up to 2%, but you can keep going. It is unlikely you will need to go much further. In fact 1% will make a huge difference - that could do the job nicely. Buy the acetone in a 5 litre container, and it will be good for a few winters. Last week I restocked my acetone ... 5 litres cost €15 At 2% this will treat 250 litres (or 500 litres @ 1%). You will also burn less fuel, and it will burn cleaner ... less fumes, and less maintenance :) It will pay for itself! WARNING! Add the acetone outside, or in a well ventilated area, as it is highly inflammable. Please report back here, providing the results and the best mix that works for your conditions. Good luck!

[@peterfleming7709]

Hi @@EngineTuning & thanks for such a detailed answer. I will experiment with the acetone suggestion and let you know. If you come across more information about a draft adjuster please let me know. The reason I asked is that in some of the Zibro models the hand book (viewed on line) states that at altitude the draft has to be adjusted to allow more air in & stop in 'squeaking'. My problem is that I cannot find a draft vent or anything like it on my model. What is happening at the moment is that the heater runs quietly at a very low setting, but once I turn the heat up it begins to 'squeak' quite loudly. The sound disappears within a minute of turning it back down again. To fill you in a little more about why I am asking. I am from UK, but now living in Kathmandu, Nepal - altitude of about 1,400 meters (well over 4000 feet). We brought the heater here with us because it is cheap to run and the winter here is cold at night. Hopefully your acetone suggestion will do the trick, but should you discover anything about draft adjustment and getting more air into the burner, please let me know. Thanks again for taking time to answer - appreciated.

[@EngineTuning]

Good information Peter. It is not possible to provide too much information, when you require a technical solution ;) The Fuel in Nepal is most likely to be low grade fuel. Less developed countries tend to have less developed products, because they are cheaper (to suit the average pocket). Consider passing a few minutes of time watching this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/moPQo3iFd9h4etk The playlist is: kzbin.info/aero/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa Subscribe to the channel, and click the bell to accept notifications, because I am now preparing some new videos for you (I'm pausing on that task, to answer your question) If there is definitely an airflow adjuster, then you should be able to find it. 'Draft' means 'rising combustion product (heat) speed'. Traditionally, it relates to: Installing the correct chimney/flue diameter. The diameter dictates the rising airspeed, which in turn dictates the inrush of air to replace the air that has risen and left the system. Perhaps the draft adjuster is the mini chimney, which can be screwed smaller or larger, like a telescope - like a rolled up piece of paper.. (obv, let me know as soon as you find it) However, that apart, now knowing that you are in Nepal, I would say that the acetone mix is going to be a big help. It will raise the fuel burn efficiency of your fuel, to a higher grade. In so doing, it will burn hotter, and burn off more of the potentially toxic impurities IE. Less pollutants will make it into the (your) atmosphere, due to achieving complete combustion (the ultimate goal). It is no different to waste incinerators. They burn ultra hot, so that they don't pollute, even though they are burning stuff that would normally pollute. The by product of this, is that you will be much warmer :) (Market Gardens are often located next to incinerators, to get the excess heat) Note: This works, even at low apparently low temperature settings, because the burn mix will still be leaner, only that less fuel will be used. (a spark compared to a lightening bolt - same temperature, only less energy) Remember Bunsen Burners? Combustion is from yellow to white. White melts engines. You need more 'blue white' than 'blue yellow'. An 'acetone in paraffin heaters' video, is coming your way soon. If you can get out, and find it, and report back ... I could include your findings. (Otherwise a follow up, as I have my acetone) Paint lacquer thinner is mostly acetone ... probably entirely acetone nowadays, though it could be doctored. I don't know Nepal, but I have lived in various developing countries. There will be a hardware shop that contains everything that anybody could want. Otherwise, try car spray-paint workshops, as they will have it in bulk containers. Cheap as chips, compared to 1 litre bottles. :)

[@lexpee]

Hi i has also error 03 I have a Inverter Minimax 2300W kerosene heater. I had to disassemble almost the entire stove, The burner was not charred. The air supply channel under the burnerfan was clogged, as a result of which the burner did not receive enough air. I spent a whole day on it, it was my only heater so it had to work again soon. outside it was -5

[@EngineTuning]

Nice work lexpee! A bit of effort, but rewarded with victory :D

[@lexpee]

Thanks for the reply. I stay on an boat and for years This heater works fine, the last time the heater beginning to smell more and more. Now I know why. The narrow intake duct from the burner fan to the rear of the stove was clogged that was the problem. Regular vacuuming can prevent this problem.

[@Mosulfree]

Thanks for quick response. Actually, I pulled out all the bad fuel and cleaned the fixed tank as I could. But I 'll try to add acetone. But another thing that I forgot to mention is the magnetic spark continues even after the flame appears. Regards.

[@EngineTuning]

Ah! You have an electrical fault. Yes, forgetting to mention the fault, does make diagnosis difficult :) It could be anything, from the flame rod to the motherboard. When the flame lights ... the flame rod senses the flame and sends a signal to the controller to switch off the sparker. Therefore, start with the flame rod and work backwards. Check the condition of the flame rod, and it's cable connections. If, after remaking the connections without success ... ... swap your flame rod into a known working heater. If the working heater then has the same fault, you will know that you need a new flame rod. Good luck!

[@Mosulfree]

@@EngineTuning Thank you thank you very much. Now it works properly. Your advice was great. Moreover, the sparker was not stop working after the flame works and that was because the screw of the sensor was untightened. Thanks for your help.. Regards.

[@EngineTuning]

Great news Yasir :)

[@tabletcasacasa5523]

i have a question , how this machine can carburate (mix air and kerosene) if magnetic pum or fan lost perfomance?. is there any sensor or feedback ?

[@EngineTuning]

That is a great question, that will help people to better understand this type of heater! The answer is explained here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHSQZmlrbK9_nrc Thanks for asking the question :)

[@alanomalley8136]

Hi there, After watching your brilliant video, I successfully stripped my heater down and removed quite a bit of carbon from the bottom of the burner. It now runs great for about an hour but then shows E4, please help! Seems a little smelly Yours sincerely Alan (Blackpool)

[@EngineTuning]

Hi Alan. Have you checked out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHSQZmlrbK9_nrc It is the source for the video that you have just watched. In fact it is all about cleaning the flame rod. It's the flame rod that is the sensor for the fuel feed. If you haven't watched it then you should. If you did clean up the flame rod, then It could be anything. Possibly the pump (though it is pumping oil so it's well lubricated). It could be a failing temperature sensor, but that typically shows up as an E6 error. Good luck, and keep us informed :)

[@himdadsharif8779]

Plz help me....Corona error hh

[@javierapuga]

Hi there! Sorry to bother you with this, but the gasket you said to be careful with, I wasn't to careful and I damage it. I haven't been able to find even the name of the part so I could buy it again neither know the material ( I think it's a type of cotton glass fiber). Can you please help me with this?

[@EngineTuning]

Okay Javiera ... great question. It is always good to accept one's mistakes. We are human. We all make mistakes :) The first thing, is to understand the role of the gasket. THE GASKET: - seals the joint between the combustion chamber, and the 'box flue'. - prevents hot fumes exiting into the electro-mechanical area of the heater. - can prevent 'sucking air' (ingress) into the combustion chamber area., PRESSURE CONDITIONS The hot fumes accumulate in the flue box. The 'flue' is a large tube, at the top of the box. The fumes are hot. The fumes rise. As the fumes rise, they pull upwards, the fumes below. (this is the fundamental purpose of a flue ... they are designed to scavenge the fumes below). Consequently, there is very little pressure, to force the hot fumes through the gasket. ... because the fumes, naturally rise through the flue. In fact,there is more risk of sucking air (as the fumes rise, a depression might exist) ANALYSIS The gasket job, is to seal two metal components. High pressure is not involved (positive or negative) The gasket is not mission critical (vis a vis high pressure). Therefore, examine the gasket. Can you evenly spread the 'fibre wool' ... so that it achieves a seal, when you close the box to the combustion chamber base? My guess is that you can. The fibre wool 'will not have disappeared. So, just make sure that there is enough, to create a seal, when the flue box is refitted. You rightly identified the gasket as a 'glass fibre' version of 'cotton wool'. This is used as a 'wall filler' to insulate between two brick walls. Popular in Europe, but perhaps not in your country. I would try to re-use the material that you have. Best wishes ....

[@Mosulfree]

Hi. Thanks for your videos. I've a problem that I could not solve. The heater starts normally for 10 seconds or less then the fan starts to slow down and the heater stops working with E0. I swich it off and on. It starts again normally and again same failer happens. I cleaned the well and rods but no way. Please help. Thanks.

[@EngineTuning]

E0 indicates contaminated fuel. Use the syphon, and pump out the fuel from the fixed reservoir. This is not easy, because the bad fuel is at the bottom (fuel floats on water). Empty the portable reservoir. This fuel can be used again. Fill with fresh high grade fuel. Add acetone at 1%. 50ml Acetone for 5 litres of fuel. If some old fuel remains in the fixed reservoir ... add 2ml of acetone. Good luck!

[@leonardosaldiviariffo2928]

Hello, nice channel, thx for the videos. MIster, i have a heater(kerno calma cl300) too similar. None error in the screen, but, in low T° setting (low flame fire) delivere much kerosene odor. I clean, internally the heater is clean.. i think can be the Air passage...so. how i can regule that¿¿ Thx! and im so sorry 4 my tarzan english. Follow up videos!

[@EngineTuning]

Hello Leonardo :) The flame rod may have a carbon coat. This will modify the fuel flow, and ultimately lead to an error. Follow this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHSQZmlrbK9_nrc It is almost the same as the video above, but it explains how to clean the flame rod. A clean flame rod will probably solve your problems. Good luck!

[@memybikeni9931]

Wishing you a happy new year mate, keep up the good videos, always something of interest, glad I searched for a tutorial on wiring diagrams this year and came across your channel.

[@memybikeni9931]

Sounds interesting. Presume that’s using a twin spark plug cylinder, utilising one for the probe ?

[@EngineTuning]

No. In fact I used a tungsten rod as the electrode, and experimented with numerous glass materials. I had a big hope for sapphire, but it was cloudy. It was a major development project, but without resources, I was constantly begging stuff from people. In the end I had to call a halt when none of the funding agencies would back it. Overall, it is very difficult to get support these days for engineering projects. ... but there you go ... that's how it is. Actually, I wish that I had redone the idle setting test with the later versions. The vid that you'll see was basically from the early version prototype. Anyway, at least I got that, and a few other vids that show combustion as the engine hits the power band. :)

[@memybikeni9931]

Sounds interesting. What engine is it btw ?

[@EngineTuning]

It was an AM6 2 stroke.. Probably not the ideal engine to start with, due to its highly tuned nature. ... so it was a baptism of fire. However, it worked well, but for the bonding agent. Grabbing glass was difficult without a shoulder, yet introducing a shoulder created stress. Happy days playing with engines, and pushing the envelope :D

[@memybikeni9931]

I think I’ve seen this done with a clear cap on a 2 stroke, but not sure what materials used. I imagine your ideas have a bit more endurance.

[@himerabdelwaheb2075]

Le foyer kerosin peut-il être éclairé à l’essence?

[@EngineTuning]

No!!! Absolutely not!!! It would certainly cause an explosion.

[@غريبالدار-ذ7ك]

اخي المروحة تطفئ لوحدها بعد فترة قصيرة من تشغيل المدفئة ما السبب ؟

[@زيدونالزعبي-ت4ذ]

Hi I have a problem running the runway so it smells out constantly. So what is the solution please

[@EngineTuning]

When I first start the heater, I catch the puff of smoke in a big plastic bag. For me ... after that, there is no smell. I am using highly refined fuel. This has less smell. Therefore the cause of the smell, may be the fuel that you are using. Otherwise, you may need to clean the flame rod, and combustion chamber. I made a video for this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHSQZmlrbK9_nrc Good luck! :)

[@زيدونالزعبي-ت4ذ]

Engine Tuning thank you very match

[@iionkingstar9829]

Mine its show E4 .what is the problem

[@EngineTuning]

kzbin.info/aero/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa

[@himdadsharif8779]

Plz help me Corona error hh

[@EngineTuning]

I don't know what hh error is. It must be a new code. We had another h error on a different video. I suggested that he check the CO2 sensor. He said 'thanks', and hasn't returned ... so I'm guessing that it was CO2 sensor failure. .... but I don't know, because he hasn't reported back. Otherwise, it will typically be: Bad fuel - change all the fuel Carbonised flame rod - clean it (see my other videos kzbin.info/aero/PLeHV-kNBKNNfEtkx0cTb-mbtelhpNOPFa)

[@dimitpap2947]

That's why i don't like them. Only wick kerosene stove.