How to Double Flare a Brake Pipe // DIY

[@brucel76]

Just as a reminder. Put the correct fitting on the pipe before flaring.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Absolutely! You’ll be cursing if you forget! (Been there….) 👍

[@clarkethestig]

You don't need to risk damaging the end of the brake pipe with the stop if you fit the stop first while the two 10 mm bolts are still slack enough for the pipe to be gently pushed up against the stop.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks, yes, that's a good alternative method but I was following the instructions as per the flaring tool. Cheers, Phil

[@StaceyTaylor-h7i]

Very easy to follow this man. Highly recommend

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks very much for the endorsement! Comments really do help. Very slowly, more people are finding my videos... 🙂

[@budg7766]

This is a great video... thank You.... I just got my flaring tool last week... haven't used it yet.... you did a great job going through step by step... much appreciated... Thank You!

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks a lot! I made the video because initially, I wasn't getting very good double flare results. Once I got it all worked out, step by step, I thought it was a good topic for a video guide! 👍

[@richbrice3299]

Perfect set of instructions. Bought the exact kit and now feel confident to start. Thanks!

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! Yes, it’s a good little tool, I’ve used it quite a few times now, so you should be good to go! 👍

[@fvrrljr]

*had to turn on Subtitles* *Cupra not cooper nor copper* *cause i never heard of copper brakes line tubing* *Nice Video*

[@Suchtzocker]

its 80% copper so basically its copper lines 🤷 or do you call aluminium rims magnuminium wheels because they have 2% Magnesium 😂

[@fvrrljr]

@@Suchtzocker *they were called Mag Wheels back in the '70's so yes i would called them magnesium and the other ones aluminum wheels. you made me look into it and they are starting to use full copper for brake lines. i've just never hears of it* *goldsmith / master jeweler 60 yrs exp: i've made tubing with all different precious metals* *Thanx for your input*

[@5876526]

Just got this type of flaring tool , with no Instructions included, so very helpful video, , you should do a bubble flare one too

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! Good idea, given the popularity of this video, it would probably do well! cheers, Phil

[@JackMeadows6322]

Great video dude!

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! 👍

[@fredthe52]

Very good close details and nice explanation

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you!

[@BRADSWAND]

Got one of these flaring tools. They don't chew the pipe up unlike the cheap clamp type tools. Very easy to set up and operate. Produces perfect flares.

[@ReviveMyRide]

@BRADSWAND Yeah, they're really great aren't they! I tried a few and when I came across this one, I was like yeah, that's the one to have! Hence, I wanted to do a video and share. 👍😀

[@mph5896]

I had one of the clamp style flaring tools. Did a job and 1/2 the flares leaked. Threw that tool in the trash and bought one of these newer style flaring tools for the win.

[@anothaparson]

Brilliant! Thank you for this video demonstration 👍

[@ReviveMyRide]

You’re welcome, glad you found it useful! 👍😎

[@mybluebelly]

I am completely new to making flares, but i have to say this little tool that comes in so many different brands of packaging will yield the most beautiful flares...if you do it right which is not a massive learning curve. I used steel piping and that takes a LOT more force to get the job done but it does work just as well as with copper piping.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Yeah, it's a great little tool isn't it! SOunds like you have got the hang of it but if it interests you, I have a video on making a section of brake line and joining it onto one on the car. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5-Ydaerepx4gKM Cheers, Phil

[@victoroneill7924]

I had to replace a section of 1/4" 409 stainless on my '80 Chevy 3/4 ton truck that was damaged by a "professional" mechanic. The 1/4" version of this tool was the only one that would flare the 409 stainless on my truck (inside the frame).

[@ReviveMyRide]

Interesting to know and thanks for sharing. I knew the tool cool flare mild steel but stainless is much harder, good to know that it works with it! It's a great little tool isn't it! 👍

[@PeterShaw-lb9lt]

That punch grease is brake rubber grease for assembling hydraulic cylinders

[@bala5436]

Hi. Excellent video!! Thinking of getting one of these. Can you tell me what the difference is between a single and double flare. And how to know which one to use? Thanks

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hard to explain, single flare is like the end of a trumpet, just 1 funnel type shape. Double flare is like a donut shape that is formed in the pipe. Almost all, brake pipe flaring joints your find on a car will be double flare. Buy the tool, it’s brilliant and will save you the cost many times over. Can also flare steel pipe. Cheers, Phil

[@5876526]

You must have a double flare for high pressure(brake lines)

[@briankelley617]

Nice video. I started watching your battery load test. I will say that I have the exact Titan double-flaring tool. But on the car on the steel OEM line (Mazda 3 in my case) it’s not so facile. I think you have to have a hydraulic flaring tool like the Mastercool 72485. I double-flared my 4 wheels to accept new flexible brake line, using the Mastercool. I found this manual tool you have (Titan-Franklin) was best to straighten out the ripple of “unbent” line. This to prepare the line for the hydraulic flaring tool. You have to spend $ on the hydraulic tools. The hand held tool only works on the bench with soft copper-nickel spare brake line. Cheers!

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi, thanks for your comment! I’m not doubting the experience that you had but in this video, I flare the existing steel pipe using the Franklin, so that I can join in a new section. The only thing I did differently is to make sure the clamping bolts were very tight! kzbin.infopeZLOlsCFvc?si=vM4axiPhRqM7uVVS cheers, Phil

[@nicam49]

Am I correct in thinking that you should be using a DIN flaring tool not an SAE one? The underside of the DIN flare is flat, to match the DIN fitting...? This is soooo confusing as the market is flooded with a mixture of both, seemingly interchangeable, but they're not.... 🤔

[@ReviveMyRide]

Found this info, which hopefully will help you! “SAE flares are tapered on both sides of the flare. So the nut has an internal taper as well as the fitting the pipe goes to. DIN are flat on the back of the flare, so the nut is also flat faced.” So, it looks like the double flares I used were SAE and it’s just important that the fittings are tapered on the inside to take this shape. Cheers, Phil

[@JohnWare-m2q]

Absolutely clear instructions and excellent video. Well done.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks very much for the kind comment, much appreciated! 👍😎

[@randyschmittou8708]

Very well made video! Thanks for sharing!

[@ReviveMyRide]

You’re welcome, thanks for the comment! 👍

[@Changtent]

Lovely bit of kit that flaring tool that you've got. I hadn't seen one quite like it before this video. One thing that can mess up your work though is poor quality tubing. I've experienced tubing where the inside hole is not concentric to the outside diameter. This leaves the tubing to be thinner on one side than the other. There's basically no way of getting a proper double flare on that sort of tubing so be careful when purchasing your tubing.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks for your comment! Yes, I really like that little flaring tool and due to it's compact size, it's useful if you're flaring a pipe on the car for putting in a repair section too. Yes, very good point - Good quality tubing isn't expensive and will make all of the difference. cheers, Phil

[@daniellilly_]

Nice job! Thank you for the video 👍

[@ReviveMyRide]

No probs! Cheers 👍😁

[@MARIOFERRARI-md9oj]

Can this tool be used to create a flare on a steel brake pipe?

[@alfashowroom]

Thanks for the video, I need to do this while the pipe is on the car so will be a bit more fiddly, how do I attach the screws that go into the ABS pump?

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @alfashowroom sometimes I reuse the fittings. So I would detach the pipe from the ABS pump, see how the end of the brake type is formed (probably a double flare). If so, then cut the end off of the pipe and retain the fitting to use again. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil

[@jetmech421]

You are THE Man!! Thank you very much for the demo and instructions. Exactly what I was looking for. Very helpful. I liked and subscribed. I am looking forward to more of your videos, but right now I gotta get back out to my corroded old dodge dakota and splice in new brake lines. Not a good feeling when you step on your brake pedal and it goes to the floor... Thanks again... 2 thumbs up!!!

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hey, thanks very much! Good to have another car diy’er as a subscriber. No brakes situation sounds scary 😦 Hope you get the truck sorted 👍 cheers, Phil

[@pugboat]

I got this exact tool based on this video. It does indeed make very nice flares on the copper nickel stuff, however on steel pipe it doesn't clamp tight enough to keep the pipe in position due to the extra force required. This makes it not so useful for on car repairs when repairing OE steel pipe. Any tips on flaring steel pipe?

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @pugboat Not sure what is going wrong for you but I have used the tool successfully on steel pipes quite a few times. As you say, to join a new length of brake line to existing steel brake lines on the car. I just have the following tips which may help: If your brake lines have paint or any other type of coating on them, you have to trim it right back, ideally using some fine wet and dry sandpaper. Then get the exterior of the pipe, where the clamp is going to operate as clean and dry as possible, I use brake cleaner and then wipe it down. Clean the inside of the clamp too in the same way. Any liquid, grease etc in these areas will allow the clamp to slide. I'm sure you are doing this anyway but ensure you tighten up the clamp bolts evenly, half a turn on one, half a turn on the other. Repeat until it is tight and use a ring spanner or socket to get it REALLY tight. After that, it is the normal flaring process. I hope this helps you some! Thanks, Phil

[@bluefallon6374]

Thanks, just what I needed.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Great! 👍

[@mack1609]

great video. is this flare you did for the male end or female end.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you! Normally you would put the male end onto the pipe, then do the double flare as shown, then screw it into a coupling or fitting. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil

[@mack1609]

@@ReviveMyRide thank you

[@ReviveMyRide]

@@mack1609 No probs! 👍

[@belloa3026]

Why do keep getting uneven flare?

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi, just a couple of ideas for you. The first is that the end of the pipe has to be cut off square, ideally with a pipe cutter as this will give the best result. The second is that the pipe end that you are flaring should be as straight as possible, as a slight bend in the pipe could also cause it. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil

[@MrUnderwurlde]

Just got a similar tool. When I clamp the pipe tight enough to hold it secure for the punch, I find that the pipe is badly marked. It ends up with seam marks down each side where the two clamp pieces meet. Not sure if its acceptable to file or sand these down or if the tool I have is for the bin.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Just a thought…. I believe there are two tools depending on what size brake pipe you are working with. Mine is a 3/16 tool and that is the sized pipe I use it with. If you are using a small tool on the larger pipe, which was 1/4 maybe that is the issue? I think the larger size is only in older vehicles though, so a long shot, might be worth measuring though! I wouldn’t file down the outside of the pipe, risk of weakening the pipe. Failing that, yeah, I would think about changing the tool. Cheers, Phil

[@MrUnderwurlde]

It's definitely 3/16. I found that the edges on the clamp where the pipe go through were very sharp. I took a round file to it to smooth it off and that resolved the pipe crimping issue. Unfortunately, the quality of the flare is not acceptable as it is slightly deformed. Determined to succeed, I've ordered a more expensive, higher quality version of the tool. Should arrive next week. Buy cheap, buy twice certainly held true here.....

[@MrUnderwurlde]

New Laser flare tool arrived. It's the double head one that supports SAE and DIN flares. What a difference....first test flare was perfect and the tool feels much more robust. Seemed to take much less effort to press the flare too.

[@garagekeys]

Will this tool do a bubble flare ?

[@jameslarson4824]

Thank you very much I just ordered. To be arriving today and your video help immensely

[@ReviveMyRide]

@jameslarson4824 Glad the video helped! 👍

[@level2man]

Cheers fella, exactly the info I needed!

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! Great to hear 😊👍

[@mihai-danut6955]

Top man,perfect video👏👏👏👏

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks so much!

[@TheBrigadier1977]

ASK - one of my favourite motor factors and Mens "Toy Shops" used them since i was about 15!!

[@ReviveMyRide]

You must be a local then! (around the Kippax area)! Yes, agree, it's a great motor factors, really good customer service! 👍😀

[@melvis2017]

Great video and thanks for sharing with us this

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thank you! No probs at all, glad you liked the video!

[@NerradWorldservicesDogmanDaz]

Thank you , informative

[@ReviveMyRide]

Cheers! 😁

[@michaelmccullough3461]

I bought one of these not the make u have but its all 3/16 tool and 3/16 pipe but the pipe wont fit

[@ReviveMyRide]

Sorry to hear ☹ All I can think is that there must be a problem with either the pipe or the tool. Maybe measure the pipe with some calipers or micrometer and if it looks ok, then return the tool. Cheers, Phil

[@michaelmccullough3461]

@@ReviveMyRide cheers pipe ok on my vice mounted tool pipe wont fit in the hand held flaring tool my fault for buying cheap version on ebay

[@ReviveMyRide]

@@michaelmccullough3461ah, that’s a shame but at least you got to the bottom of it 👍 cheers, Phil

[@michaelmccullough3461]

@@ReviveMyRide thanks for the reply cheers

[@kevinricketts6098]

Where can I buy the flareing tool please.

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi Kevin, you can find them on Amazon. There are a couple of links in the video description which should help 👍 cheers, Phil

[@theskysfallingin]

wish I watched this before eating all the grease...

[@theskysfallingin]

but seriously - good video and thanks for confirming you used Kunifer in this tool, the other cheaper tools just can't form this, only softer copper

[@ReviveMyRide]

😂

[@ReviveMyRide]

@@theskysfallingin thanks! Yes, I was keen to get a tool that could form the Kunifer too 👍

[@davidwort37]

​@Revive My Ride mine just came from amazon this morning, perfect flare first time on the kunifer pipe I bought, many thanks again 👍

[@ReviveMyRide]

@@davidwort37 Perfect! 👍 Thanks for the update, glad it worked well for you! 😀

[@tms1234567]

Great video mate thanks

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks!

[@charlieLund-v4r]

Great Video on how to make the Double Flare. I have the same tool, except mine is the Lisle brand part# 33260, might have purchased it off Amazon. Does the 3/16" and the 1/4" tubing. Also bought 25 feet of 3/16" Nickle/Copper Brake line. Saw one Video where the guy used Copper line which is not to be used for Brake lines. He said he is located in the UK, and is legal to use there.??? Don`t think so. These nifty little tools are all made in China from what I see. Charlie

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi Charlie, I think normal copper is still legal and people use it on their classic cars in the UK but best practice is definitely Copper/Nickel now. Agree, I see a lot of the exact tools with all sorts of different branding on them but they do seem to be well made. Cheers, Phil

[@charlieLund-v4r]

@@ReviveMyRide I used the Lisle tool first time yesterday afternoon. First double Fare, and came out perfect. Now if I can replicate the 2 lines from the MC down to the proportioning Valve on the Frame, and copy Ford`s zigzaggy bends and make it all line up. Charlie

[@ReviveMyRide]

@@charlieLund-v4r Well done getting the double flare right first time, must confess, it took me a few tries! Yes, there's hours of fun to be had shaping the brake line and starting again if you kink the pipe! 😂

[@nicktelesco4950]

Please show a METRIC brake flare has a double bubble flare

[@mohammedjafurulha5355]

Nice

[@chrisduhaime5689]

That simple tool is accurate and contained/ that split wing nut tool is no good because the dies DON t have a right size steam and cannot center properly / that has been out there over 50 years ! Eye believe that it's intentional somehow the industry don't want diy to fix there own stuff.

[@easyrider1147]

Awesome

[@ReviveMyRide]

Thanks! 😀

[@rustdawg7364]

These don't work on steel lines.i bought the same tool .

[@ReviveMyRide]

Hi @rustdawg7364 Thanks for the comment but it worked for me! See this video for visual evidence, I flare the existing steel pipe on the car, so that I can use a straight connector to join in a new section of brake pipe. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5-Ydaerepx4gKM Thanks, Phil

[@russoft]

that grease looks yummy tho

[@ReviveMyRide]

Doesn’t it! 🤤

[@petersomthing9508]

good video my flare tool you have to guess how far the pipe needs to go in the tool

[@ReviveMyRide]

@petersomthing9508 Yeah, it is definitely convenient. I would really struggle without this feature! but with a bit of experimentation I suppose you could work out the correct length, let's say it is 8mm, once you know this for sure, you could start marking the distance on your pipe before inserting it into the tool. Cheers, Phil