How to drill your AK barrel pin on a new barrel

[@FatherOfTheYear1]

its almost year 2023 and ginsboy is still AK builder Legend!

[@striknine570]

Still to this day the Ginsboy2003 AK building videos are the best available. No one walks you through the process as thorough then these vids. Thanks for taking the time to do these. Legendary indeed.

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[@Triste916]

Agreed

[@seanbrando_7456]

It's amazing how much I thought I knew, until I ACTUALLY knew. Before my first ground up build, (Hungarian U.F) I had used AK'S and messed with them for years and converted some Siaga's so I thought I had a good handle on things. Even though my somewhat limited experience did help a lot---you just do not know until you build ground up or even from an 80% receiver. I got it the first time thankfully, but I almost screwed up bad and pressed my barrel crooked....after test firing and trouble shooting I re-drilled my barrel pin and went up one size and she straightened right up. It is the most satisfying thing you can imagine. You need actual skill with tools and mistakes can have very bad outcomes. After building a kit or two and THEN watching again--wow this dude has so many great tips and such good advice....thank you Sir---these videos are truly awesome. Thank's for the time and patience you put into them....great stuff.

[@archangel20031]

If you are going to basically destroy a drill bit for this one use, cut it off near the base of the flutes so there are no flutes to side cut the trunnion.

[@ginsboy2003]

+archangel20031 I don't know why youtube just made me "approve" your comment. You have a good point there.

[@archangel20031]

+ginsboy2003 In the past I may have made a snarky comment or two on other videos, perhaps it's following me? I have inherited a few drill bits that have been sharpened so much they are barely more than a stub of drill before the shank.

[@ginsboy2003]

Those drill bits would work well for this.

[@archangel20031]

+ginsboy2003 Well, last night my 3 piece head space gauge set came in the mail so today is the day I set the barrel. They were from Dave Manson Precision Reamers and was only $68 for the whole set with shipping. I did the metal tape thing and one layer (.003) was not enough for a no-go but 2 layers (.006) was. However, the real no-go gauge was fine, and the go was super easy and even seemed a little (very nit-picky little) loose. Should I assume a little wear as the parts from the kit seemed like they had very little use, as in only test firing, or not worry about it and pin it? I am assuming that at a later date if the head space needs to be tightened up a little, those oversize pins should allow the barrel to be moved forward a couple thousandths and then re-drilled and reamed. I think an AK variant was the best choice for my first build as the tolerances seem to me to be so much forgiving than most guns. I have seen some very crap looking AK's built out there that seem to do the job admirably for what they came from. You-Tube videos like yours have been so helpful, I can't thank you enough.

[@ginsboy2003]

+archangel20031 If it is a little tight, it'll wear in and it'll be fine. If it's too loose, then you'll have problems. I always set mine so that I feel a little resistance on a live round, very little. Thats way tighter than mil-spec. and will never cause me headspace issues and I've never had any.

[@ginsboy2003]

An old guy at work said his dad was a very successful gunsmith back in the day and all he needed to build a tack driver was a box of shells the user planned to shoot. He didn't always use a headspace gauge.

[@craigwilcox6319]

You and I both have done a lot of a/c sheet metal work, and that is a great point about the end mill bit. Built 9 a/c, all of them flew great. Sold the last one to buy this house I'm living in. So now, I do gunsmith work, and don't know near enough about AK's and SK's - these are great videos for learning. And pneumatics are sure the way to go. Thanks for posting the video.

[@Cheezeball99999]

I know this is a 10 year-old video, but my home shop barrel pin solution is a cut-down J drill. It's .277 diameter, exactly the same as a "real" barrel pin; cut to 1.136 length I believe. Drill with a flattened I drill as you did, then I ream with a 7mm. True, not everyone has a set of metric reamers, but I bought mine for 22ish dollhairs just for gunsmithing. It contains every reamer you'll need for an AK and bunches more. 5/7mm for axis pins, 8/10mm for the selector, etc.

[@TheSuburban15]

That's pretty clever, regrinding the tip of the drill bit. I may use that in the future.

[@talon0863]

Thanks for putting up this info. You did an amazing job free hand drilling the new barrel pin. But I was relieved at the end of the video to see someone that good with metal. does indeed have a mill. I've built 3 aks and used a harbor freight drill press for all the drilling and it worked fine. I'm glad to know how to do it free hand too. Thanks Bro

[@dtspilot]

Nice! Aircraft structural repairer? I used to be one in the Army. Learning how to rivet, I used to walk the rivet gun and leave smiley faces all over the place. But that was when I was learning. Ended up getting real good at it. I might try a build seeing that it uses everything I learned drilling and riveting on aircraft.

[@craighansen7594]

Thanks again for a lot of helpful information! I have built several guns from parts and made some mistakes that cost time to fix. Your videos will definitely have a positive impact on my builds. Also want to thank you for the plans for the ak flat jig.

[@ginsboy2003]

I'm glad its helped.

[@edowen1454]

When I drilled my barrel hole.I egged out my trunnion hole.I'm gonna try it again on a new parts kit.Thanks for this video I'm sure it will help me.

[@mizrahimsephardi5214]

Brother may G-D Keep you safe and your loved ones too, thanks a million for these videos, keep on rockin'.

[@prekrasnie]

Since barrel steel is relatively soft by design, why not set wooden blocks at the height of the barrel clamped outside, file out the required metal using the wooden blocks as your guide/rest to stay square with a round or half round file? No way to bugger up the hole and simpler than grinding a bit, et al. Thanks for your great video, very kind of you.

[@kathryntruscott6351]

Nice to see that others use these same 'dodges' that I do... Flatting a twist drill and using the tape around the flutes really works better than one has a right to expect..... There is, after all, a limit to the number of sizes in which one can buy end mills.... What matters is results, and with care these methods are just as good as having the flash equipment... just takes a little longer is all.... :-) Happily, these days I have a lathe and a mill.... I'm spoiled!

[@MrRoboskippy]

Thank you so much for these great videos. Your instruction gives me confidence to try my own build.

[@kasquaskannachehukapapansk9857]

Where did you get to be so wonderful from? I used to admire Rosie the riveter now you have given me new hope as a man.

[@billvan5893]

Should you not rivet the receiver on it before you install the barrel? That way you can get the bucking bar in there to make the rivets right. It appears the way your showing your going to have to use the barrel as your bucking bar.

[@kingpenm3]

Do you think it would work if you cut a drill bit off just a 1/4" below the smooth shank? That way you wouldn't have to use the tape because it would be smooth shank rubbing against the trunnion. You just wouldn't have much length left on your bit, but surely enough to make it half way through.

[@osamasamir4230]

You helped me a lot to know how I am building my yugo m70 milled . but I have a problem here . my kit came with mo barrel pin . I dont know what size I suppose to get .

[@raysmith8692]

also, any ideas on cutting the extractor pocket on the face of a new virgin barrel? The forearm notch, gas port hole and all the other pin grooves too.... Thanks again for all the great info...

[@GB-kv6jw]

Great video plain spoken and accurate.Plus the last part where you show inside your shop, I will show it to my wife who thinks I keep to many parts and what knots, you make me look like Mr. Clean . Just kidding my shop looks like a garbage dump sometimes especially when working on guns, cars, motorcycles and lawn equipment at the same time not to mention the six pack

[@insatiablebug7767]

Please make a video series to make AK from scratch. No AK builder parts. Just taking metal sheets, metal rods and metal bricks and make AK parts using lathe machine and milling machine.

[@sonofliberty92]

would love to see the rest of the barrel components done. you do a great job. thanks

[@ginsboy2003]

Its an aluminum tape that can be bought at industrial supply houses. It measures around .003 inch thick. Any tape could be used if you measure it and know what you are working with.

[@80spodcastchannel]

Dude,awesome series....I'd heard even the "professionals" do a scotch tape head space check to keep themselves honest for setting up winchesters and rem 700's, even WITH forster and clymer and other notables.. the tape method WORKS and is good to go as long as you know your run out with the tape thickness.. great stuff. Seeya bro Dude

[@raysmith8692]

any help/suggestions on setting up a new barrel in a virgin un-drilled trunnion? Where to drill the hole??? Yes, I'm a very beginner, but everyone was once :-) I can't tell you how much I've learned from your videos, EXCELLENT...

[@johndix1820]

Ray Smith IRT Drilling a Virgin trunnion for a barrel? I’m doing my first time with a new polish AK kit but barrel has been predrilled. They just didn’t give me the predrilled trunnion with the kit.

[@bfgivmfith]

Thanks man. I am trying really hard to do my job correctly. ;)

[@zacksmith3787]

Suppose to rivet trunnion to reciver first, I.O. did it the way this guy did and the rivets fall out and not flush with receiver.

[@shawnpena5337]

He only did it this way to drill the barrel pin and then he blew it all back apart then riveted a tronium then pressed the barrel back in you did it wrong

[@americancitizen3782]

Can you please tell me what size end mill bits I should use to complete a new barrel pin,gas block,sight block and front sight post. Love your videos you are very good at making it look easy! Please keep making them

[@ginsboy2003]

For the barrel pin I use a 1/4 inch endmill and finish the hole with a round file. for the rest, I use a drill bit that is one letter size smaller than the measured pin dia. It's best to measure the pins, the M70 pins aren't the same diameter as on other builds so I'd measure them first.

[@californiagunner7020]

Can you do a small video on a how you ground your drill bit to the shape that you need?

[@ginsboy2003]

It's possible in the future, I just moved into a new house and my shop doesn't have power in it yet. All projects are on hold.

[@ak-builder118]

Yes, if you can make a video on how to sharpen the drill bit when you cut it off to drill into the trunnion that would be a great video and very helpful to a lot of people starting out, keep up the good work ,your videos are great.

[@bigpapablu]

I'm super happy you made this. Thanks a lot ginsboy!

[@TheNomoto23]

I know this is an older video, but is there a way to get you to post the drilling of a gas port in an ak barrel?

[@ranjah76]

I was waiting for you to say windmill. Ha ha. Good video, like usual

[@neilcunningham5542]

Can you give me a idea how to clock the barrel to get it right in the trunion . My gas port is drilled I have a mill but no lathe. Great bids..

[@billcrowley1124]

I enjoyed your vids and learned a lot I have built a couple or ARs and want to build a couple of AKs however I can't find the prints/instructions for the flat bending jigs also need a few places to buy the demillled aks, any advise ? thanksBill

[@artyom17]

Use GO gauge. Never use an actual round as a GO gauge, it is wrong for many reasons.

[@highflyer13131]

I have a new front trunnion with a pilot already drilled. Should I use my trunnion drilling jig and pre drill the trunnion first or drill the trunnion and barrel at the same time? Be advised I have a reamer and plan on reaming for final fit?

[@ginsboy2003]

You could, but as you have to resharpen the bit the tips of the flute where you what a sharp cutting edge have been ground.

[@andyo44]

Ginsboy I am digging the beard! Keep on Keeping on, and you'll make your hobby a full time job when you are done being a aircraft mechanic! I have been watching all the videos I can, I have a few part sets but, I don't know what tool set to buy. Tothtools would be nice that way I can go over to a buddy's house, and let him build his, or buy the jigs for the press anyways good luck with your future endeavors!

[@jenl3694]

I have a toth tool barrel press and an AK Builder rivet tool, the one that does both long and short rivits. only used on 2 builds, I have 2 still to do. I might sell both in a couple of months.

[@leosutherland4555]

After watching your video among several others, I will never ever trust to purchase a garage built ak....I repeat never...!!!!!! By the way fyi I was a nuclear mechanic for yrs & followed up as a machine builder! There's only one way to do things, the right way! Work smarter not harder!

[@shaunybonny688]

could you grind the edge off of the flutes so they won't cut?

[@johndix1820]

Have you any guidance for drilling a Virgin trunnion for a barrel? I’m doing my first time with a new polish AK kit but barrel has been predrilled. They just didn’t give me the predrilled trunnion with the kit. I feel like I’m drilling blind into the trunnion without being certain where the barrel grill is. Any instruction will be greatly appreciated!

[@cosmicape13]

Being an aircraft mechanic, would a "gun barrel" drill bit work better? I don't think that's the correct name for em, but that's what we call em. When you want to drill a new part through a pre existing hole without enlarging it. Can you get those anywhere?

[@ginsboy2003]

Wow, I've been working in aviation maintenance for 28 yrs and never heard the term. I guess every company has their own nicknames for things. We've always used drill bushings to do what you describe, then step up the hole to finale. Trying to think of what you are describing and can't picture it.

[@kendalledmunds673]

do you need to use an end mill bit even if using a drill press or can you use the pointed bit?

[@nrainfidelforlife]

What material are you making your pins out of? I can only assume its A2 or D2 tool steel? Very informative video. Try.

[@80spodcastchannel]

Dude, your tailoring the gun to a specific round and chamber, it's gonna shoot grat if the rest of the rifle is built to that same manner of dedication of tweaking to the best outcome. Again...great series... Seeya bro Dude

[@MrShreddykruger]

Is there a specific brand/ style of drill bit you would recommend? It looks like you got through that barrel in the blink of an eye!

[@ginsboy2003]

I usually get my bits from Enco-usa, they sell good high speed drill bit. The video makes it look easier than it is. I also usually wrap the tip of the drill bit with tape to keep the side of the flutes from cutting into the trunnion.

[@noretreat151]

ONLY COBALT BITS…

[@Adamz678]

Quick question, wouldn't it be easier to head space and drill the barrel pin hole after the trunnion is riveted to the receiver? That was you don't have to press it out again?

[@wysoft]

+Adamz678 either way has its merits it can be easier to square up the trunnion by itself on a drill press or milling surface. on the other hand, it's a pain in the ass to press out the barrel, and press it back in with the same exact alignment, and can be easier to just drill and pin once with the trunnion already riveted in. but squaring up the riveted receiver can be challenging. seems to be personal preference.

[@Axe-m-All]

ginsboy2003 I don't have a lathe could I cut the shank off a drill bit and use that for my Barrel pen

[@MrStumpy65]

Sure like your vids great info I have a machinist back round so somewhat familiar with what ya got going on there my? For myself not to sell what types of ffl would one need my understanding is none unless I decide to sell do you know

[@TrubHead]

Thanks for posting this instructional vid.

[@vassal11]

This guy is drilling a barrel pin by hand and the greatest risk he took was knocking his soda off the bench!

[@shaunybonny688]

What kind of tape is that? It looks metallic

[@sinisternm]

did you ever make the letter I drill bit video? I got a pressed barrel that needs drilled and pinned....

[@scooterman116]

I have a virgin barrel that I'm putting on my polish underfolder build. Can i rivet the front trunnion first and then press the barrel, check headspace, and then drill the barrel pin and be done? or do i have to drill the barrel pin then press the barrel back out and rivet the front trunnion?

[@ginsboy2003]

+Michael Lochner You can do it as you first suggested. With my tooling, its easy to do it the way I did. I've done it as you mentioned, just take your time headspacing it with the trunnion installed, remember to use a bore brush on the chamber to remove any debris or dirt.

[@TheGuy030770]

20:01 Now I don't feel so bad, your toolbox looks like bombed-out Beirut the same as mine.

[@J9_j3]

most excellent tutorial. thank you.

[@daniel17319]

End mill with a drill press would prolly be my method.

[@wyrtwister4260]

How well would a roll pin work / function for the barrel / trunnion pin ? Thanks , Wyr God bless

[@ginsboy2003]

Wyr Twister It won't work. Headspace is set with the barrel pin and the possibility of it moving with a roll pin is to great.

[@desperado8605]

i know you said you prefer hand drill but just curious i'll be using a drill press will that stop the chance of me gouging the trunion?

[@ginsboy2003]

Nope, the drill bits will flex a lot and you can't stop it with a drill press.

[@barry570]

The good Ole days of ak building

[@garrylycos4795]

Do you think you can use an end mill in a drill press if I can limit the sideways movement of the press. Im thinking set screws in the casting

[@ginsboy2003]

You could probably do it. As you probably know, if it moves the endmill may chip. Good idea though, you are only moving the endmill up and down. so you won't be putting excess load on the bearings.

[@Gassebol]

Why don’t you use a vice? That looks dangerous.

[@daniel17319]

do you recomend an end mill for barrle pins?

[@AbcdEfgh-pb3ju]

WOOT Sheetmetal represent!!

[@ginsboy2003]

It'll work it you have everything clamped really well. It not, the endmill will chatter and chip.

[@ar-gaming9014]

how hard is the damn trunion it has a started hole but with my hand drill and new bits it didnt want to drill im just gonna buy a press im a farmer without a drill press and im tired of fighting every hole

[@JJ305JJ]

Ginsboy2003 I am looking into buying a milling machine for the garage, any recommendations? Thanks!

[@ageckomiller]

I'd look for a used Proto or Bridgeport from a machine shop or auction. My Bridgeport is 50 years old and as a garage shop tool, there nothing better. I was able to sell both my drill presses and my lathe, which got my money back.

[@kendalledmunds673]

Would titanium drill bits be ok for this?

[@ginsboy2003]

If they were quality drill bits then yes.

[@noretreat151]

titanium bits will only aid in heat transfer problems and are usually a coating……COBALT bits are for cut penetration. IMHO

[@Solingen1000]

cool. Now I know I dont have to search down some weird metric end mills.

[@hellishgrin4604]

You don't measure the shank, you measure the flutes. If the drill has been used or depending on the size, the flutes will not be the same as the shank. I'm a machinist, and we never measure the shank.

[@ditkacigar89]

alright someone please tell me where to get smaller barrel pins, the barrel pin i got with my parts kit is a .315 and it is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too big for my trunnion and it is effing impossible for my drill press to even penetrate a millimeter into the trunnion. I figured I need barrel pin the size of ginsboy at .276 or a tad bit bigger because my .265 drill bit is kinda snug in the trunnion. But the thing is the only barrel pins I can find are .315 and .302

[@jenl3694]

make your own outta a drill bit or other tool steel ;)

[@GeorgeKofman64]

thank you. very informative.

[@JJ305JJ]

+ginsboy2003 I am doing my first AK build and I have a virgin barrel that will need the barrel pin hole drilled. I have the original barrel pin (.278 or so) that is still pinned down in the front trunnion with part of the old barrel attached. Once I remove the pin and the old barrel piece. I will need to install the new barrel and drill the hole. My question for you is this. Will a 1/4 inch end mill be enough to make a hole big enough for that original barrel pin? or will I need to get a bigger barrel pin and if so what size? Thank you

[@ginsboy2003]

+JJ305 No, but its pretty dang close. I use a 1/4 inch endmill and they use a round file to clean it up inside. After using the 1/4 endmill there isn't much left.

[@JJ305JJ]

+ginsboy2003 Thank you for the reply. I have been trying to remove my barrel pin with a vise, punch and heavy hammer and no luck it just flattened one end of the barrel pin but the other side just looks the same it did not budge at all... Do you think I might need to use an actual press?

[@ginsboy2003]

JJ305 A press is the only way to go sometimes.

[@gregoryjamesaustin]

Great tip.

[@ThomasShue]

Why would you not file it?

[@ginsboy2003]

You wouldn't be able to even get the file through the hole unless you drill it somehow.

[@RockyTop1911]

Good stuff!

[@smooth247fyi]

Thanks for the video! Hey you should try to make a Full30 account, since youtube is shutting gun channels down. Would hate to lose your knowledgeable videos!

[@9mmghosty]

its a caliper, not micrometer.

[@danielblackburn4626]

Better to start with a 1/4” carbide end mill to make a flat for drill if you don’t wanna dress a flat bottom drill. Cheap and easy solution. You can even skip the drill and use a 7mm carbide endmill then jump to the reamer. Even a bull nose or ball nose endmill will work better than a drill in this case. One critical note, carbide tools require a good rigid fixture and no vibrations. If using a drill press make sure it is all clamped down. Never use carbide tools with a hand drill. Bridgeport would be the best choice with a solid Kurt vise with custom aluminum soft jaws.

[@packrat2113]

very nice, thank you. sub'd!

[@artyom17]

Get yourself a cheap press from HF instead of using a sledge hammer.

[@notsogreat123]

Yes, that is why I use an endmill. Endmills are cheap !!

[@ranjah76]

Damn autocorrect. Endmill, not windmill.

[@richardturk7162]

Might seem easy to you because you are a machinist.

[@MrShreddykruger]

@ginsboy2003 great thanks, I will try that.

[@daniellaverty1359]

Yup.. jacked that trunnion up. This is a great example of the importance of using the correct tools. Drilling a barrel pin hole by hand is stupidity.. I’m not sure what this guy thought he was proving to anyone.. didn’t prove he can drill anything by “hand” better than anyone else.. still wallowed the trunnion. Never had an issue drilling barrel pins.. don’t be cheap! Buy the right tools! This is a firearm.. nothing to mess with, or be cheap with. Jeesh..

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