How to easily isolate the auxiliary battery in your JL Wrangler or JT Gladiator (Aux battery delete)

Here is an easy way to isolate the auxiliary battery with no codes, no fuss, no extra parts or wiring and no f$&king around.
This is also known as an Auxiliary battery delete or auxiliary battery elimination .
Step 1 -
Remove the F42 fuse from the PDC
Step 2 -
Remove the aux battery earth/ground cable from the negative terminal of the main battery and tape up the ring terminal and cable tie it out of the way. Job done.
The vehicles in this video are a Jeep 2.2 Diesel JL Unlimited Rubicon
Our drone footage is taken by a DJI Mavic Pro in 4K.
Music is sourced from Epidemic Sound
Links
Walkaround of our JL Wrangler Rubicon
• Walk around of our cap...
Melton Moment candles
www.meltonmome...
...

[@plumber802]

I gave you a thumbs up for the Aussie accent and for having the balls to drive on the wrong side of the road all the time!!!

[@operation4wheelz]

Haha. Cheers mate.

[@hailtothe_rooster1572]

Greetings from Texas I work in telecom and I’m pretty familiar with power sources given the trade. We have main utilities, generator, and if all else fails back up battery packs give us like 10hrs before total blackout. Also just purchased a jeep After considering load sharing, basic function of the auto start/stop, auto dealers habit of badge engineering etc etc….. there’s no logic behind that aux battery unless we had more charging amps, better battery and a dedicated use. Something like offroad LEDs, compressor, other things besides “eco” mode. Overland type stuff. The module doesn’t know not to draw from the main battery after ignition off. Almost like it doesn’t know you’re not at a stoplight and it’s on standby waiting to crank the engine over but you’re at home. It doesn’t need to crank anything. While it’s not the auto start/stop function being the problem its more like the aux system was created for someone to leave their mark on the industry. Someone was tricked into thinking it was a good idea but it’s half assed with no benefit.

[@operation4wheelz]

Yeah, I’m not sure what car was the first to use this system. I have no doubt it was something from Stellantis, because a number of their vehicles share this system. Could even be a carry over from another vehicle that they are trying to justify the spent money on 🤷‍♂️

[@MrMultihulls]

Interesting and simple hack to by pass the aux battery. Go the mighty JL diesels, best ever motor for a Wrangler. I love the torque and fuel economy @ 8 lph on the hwy. Great video but boy you can talk 😂.

[@operation4wheelz]

Haha. Cheers mate

[@MrMultihulls]

@@operation4wheelz All good as we say in Oz, "just taking the pi55" LOL

[@thatonedude926]

That ecodiesel was garbage. Grenaded itself due to the small oil channels all around.

[@danielsmith5351]

I removed my aux battery 4 years ago and glad I did.

[@operation4wheelz]

Yeah it’s not worth the fuss having it in

[@towzone100]

Did you have any issues with charging after doing so? I did the same mod and changed the battery out from an H6 to an H7, and my volt gauge is jumping all over the place.

[@danielsmith5351]

My Jeep was only putting out between 12.9 and 13.4. After removing the aux it jumped to almost 15 amps but would go down to 13.9 but finally settled in around 14. to 14.5 which is good. @@towzone100

[@mstone6210]

Upvoted for the bonnet vs hood.

[@operation4wheelz]

Cheers mate!

[@sellickusa]

Cheers from the US

[@operation4wheelz]

Gday mate!!

[@NeyKerestegian-x8r]

Any issues so far? going to do it to my 2019 JLU 3.6 because my AUX battery always gives me troubles and my ESS hasn't worked for 2 years.

[@operation4wheelz]

Na mate. Still never had an issue doing this 👍

[@overlandingfamily]

Is the aux battery really only for the stop start function. does it affect anything else bypassing it?

[@operation4wheelz]

My understanding is that it just supports the main battery. During starting and stop starting. Starting an engine takes a huge wallop of current. During stop/starting, the car still need to run things like AC, radio and whatever else. That’s why I suggest it’s probably best not using the auto stop start with the batteries isolated. Otherwise, I find that the vehicle runs 100% fine on just one battery.

[@jwat2396]

They put the stop start crap on it because of the people controlling EPA calling for supposed better gas mileage. But I've had to replace mine and if I don't drive it for 3 days its still kills my starting battery. This seems pretty stupid because if your camping for any length of time you'll have to burn up your gas just to make sure that stupid tiny battery isn't killing your starting battery or run a solar charging system all the time to keep that little piece of crap battery from sucking the power from your starting battery.

[@operation4wheelz]

Yeah it’s an unnecessary complication. If I were you, I’d just isolate. Mines been isolated for months now. Runs completely normal.

[@towzone100]

I agree. Stupid. My AUX battery will only last a year. Thats why I did this MOD.

[@heythestick]

Just did mine. Thanks boss.

[@operation4wheelz]

No problems mate. Glad it helped 👍

[@sonsofomanveeb]

Dear i do the same process but check engine signal show !! What the reason can help

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate. I haven’t heard of this issue being related. Have you given the car a good solid drive and charged the main battery right up?

[@sonsofomanveeb]

@@operation4wheelz IFirst I removed fuse F42 and then charged the main battery. When the vehicle was running, the check engine sign appeared, and I returned the fuse and the sign disappeared.

[@operation4wheelz]

@sonsofomanveeb the only thing I can think of is that the main battery might not be that healthy. Low voltage often sets off various warning lights.

[@richardlinn5512]

THANKS MATE !

[@operation4wheelz]

No problems!

[@lonewolf4827]

So all you did was pull a fuse and disconnect the aux battery ground cable and that's it?

[@operation4wheelz]

Yep.

[@lonewolf4827]

Awesome. A lot easier than all the fuse box disassembly work. Probably a good idea to remove aux battery at some point. It's bound to start leaking eventually. I hear that can be accomplished by removing the inner fender well. accessing it from underneath again saves dealing with the fuse box. Appreciate the video brother. Cheers from sunny Florida! 😎

[@operation4wheelz]

No problems mate. Glad it helps. Don’t forget to leave a “like” and sub to the channel 🤙

[@michaelsyoutubechannel5857]

@@lonewolf4827 Correct. All you have to do is turn the tire full lock to the left, remove a few pins and one fender liner bolt to peel back the fender line. This gave me enough access to remove the aux battery. I did purchase a rivet hand gun kit (which comes with plastic rivets) to reinstall the fender liner.

[@lonewolf4827]

@michaelsyoutubechannel5857 thanks for responding. yeah I took care of it last month. I actually pulled the tire for easier access. And also purchased the plastic rivet gun at harbor freight. The fender rivet design......not impressed. 😏

[@cowelk]

I just found your channel and subscribed. I have a 2021 JLU 3L EcoDiesel that is approaching its battery life. I am hoping to not replace the Aux battery and just the main battery. I don't like the Start Stop feature and push the button to turn it off when I get to the first traffic light. So, I don't see why I will want to buy a new Aux battery. Did you remove your Aux battery? If so, what did you do to isolate the cables? If not, will it start corroding some day in the future?

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate thanks for the sub. I haven’t removed the aux battery. But it wouldn’t be too hard. I might do a video about it in the future. I believe that you’d need to remove the wheel guard to do so, but the location of the aux batt might be a bit different here. You could find a video on replacing it and just not put a new battery in. As for it leaking.. I don’t see why I would leak unless it was damaged some how, or on a weird angle for a while. Hope this helps .

[@danielsmith5351]

If you remove the aux battery and connect the pos from the aux battery to the pos of the main battery and tie the aux ground out of the way you wont have to remove any fuse.

[@operation4wheelz]

You are correct. The bonus of doing it this way, is that it’s quicker and easy to reverse , should the dealer not be happy with what you’ve done for some reason. This is why I said I’d make it permanent once it was out of warranty.

[@SandVan]

Very nice ❤happy new year

[@operation4wheelz]

Thank you! Happy new year to you too.

[@vickey59]

Good video. Looks like mine are on their way out again, even though I replaced both batteries 3 years ago with a Century 65AH and a Katana 12AH from SupercheapAuto. The service ETC and service S/S messages have recently come on. I’d charge the batteries and the messages would go away for a few days, but S/S pretty much stops working in a day because the aux doesn’t seem to be holding charge and the messages come back. Also takes an extra second or 2 to crank. Still getting it checked under the 5-year warranty (which runs out in a few weeks) but I’m disabling the aux battery for sure…what an unnecessarily silly system.

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate. I’ve found that the system in general is very sensitive to low voltage. Those supercheap century’s are fine, but they need to be in perfect condition or the system will notice and youll have the symptoms you describe. Supercheaps battery test will register a “pass”. But in actual fact, it’s not sufficient for the wrangler. Jeeps testing gear will state “fail”. Isolate the aux batt as I have in the video and keep the main battery as healthy as you can. Put it on a trickle charge if you’re not driving it for a few days. If the century battery really starts to have drams starting etc, you should be able to get it replaced under warranty when it finally registers a “fail” at supercheap. Also l, check out my video on smart alternators. You’ll find it interesting. Hope that helps.

[@vickey59]

Thanks for the advice, mate. I have the batteries on a trickle charger now and will isolate them tomorrow. I don’t know why the batteries don’t seem to last in the JL and buying a new pair every 2 to 3 years gets old and expensive very quickly. Love your channel, keep up the good work!

[@operation4wheelz]

@vickey59 I think it’s for 2 reasons. Not sure about yours but my alternator pumps in up to 240amps with the HD alternator option. And… the JL like most modern cars drains quite hard on the crank battery in general. Plus whatever accessories are running, winches, spotties etc. I had this discussion with some of the other boys the other day, and all our newer cars seem to be killing the batteries within the warranty period. We just keep getting them replaced for free.

[@vickey59]

@@operation4wheelzjust an update, I pulled both batteries out and they were both in poor health, at less than 50% of their rated CCA. Took the main one back to SuperCheap, and the Century rep today confirmed it was sulphated and will be replaced under warranty (luckily I have 3 months before the 36 month term expires). I reckon most likely the aux battery died first and drained the main battery overtime until it was sulphated. I will definitely isolate the aux when I get the new batteries installed! Cheers again for your information.

[@operation4wheelz]

No problems. That all sounds about right. Don’t be surprised if you don’t get the full 3 years again. I just don’t think batteries can handle new cars that well.

[@Larbr000]

Batteries leak with time, remove the aux battery if you bypass it.

[@kevinwilliamson2214]

Thanks, but when I did this I lost me XM radio app and lost my back up camera. So I put it back together and about an hour later it all came back, is this normal? Thanks Bloke

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate. Just do the process again. It’s normal For uconnect to do this occasionally. You can reset the system pressing down and holding the round control button on the right of the uconnect and the power button that sits opposite for 10 seconds. But it will come back eventually anyway. 👍👍

[@kevinwilliamson2214]

I will give it a shot and come back with the results, thank you sir @@operation4wheelz

[@kevinwilliamson2214]

Did it again, this time I only disconnected the Aux neg. which everything is proper. However.....that Aux warning light is still on. I took the fuse out as well. The Aux warning light was on prior to my efforts here. Should I reset the system? I have driven over 10 miles as well - thanks @@operation4wheelz

[@kevinwilliamson2214]

Update:So I did this on my 2020 JT, no light, disconnected the negative (the correct one) and pulled the ESS fuse. Drove for about 10 minutes and worked, many stops and engine kept running. The next day, somehow the Gladiator is stopping again at a full stop. I have to push the disable button for this to work. So somehow the jeep is now using the main battery for Auto stop/start. I am miffed @@operation4wheelz

[@operation4wheelz]

@@kevinwilliamson2214 yep. I suspect the engine might not have been up to temp the first time you tested it. All you are doing is tricking the car into thinking that both batteries are there, so it won’t know the difference

[@joms76]

Hi mate. Did your AUX switches still work without the AUX battery? I was thinking that's hooked up to that battery for it to work

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate. Aux switches all work fine with no Aux batt. When the batteries are linked, it’s like one big battery. So isolating the aux batt is like making it a conventional set up.

[@joms76]

@@operation4wheelz thanks mate. Had issues with my JL starting and went to ultra tune first. They said my alternator wasn't working. I brought the jeep to jeep service and they said it was just the battery. They replaced the battery and is now working but it doesn't look like it's charging. I'm beginning to think it could also be my aux battery that's why my voltage is slowly dropping

[@operation4wheelz]

Have a look at my smart alternator video… you’ll be able to tell of the alternator is charging or not 👍

[@banjoshad]

Do you reckon it’s ok to just let the dead aux just sit in there forever? I think I will let it stay there in its compartment. Thanks for the video.

[@operation4wheelz]

Hard to tell. The plastic could eventually become brittle and with some rough driving it could possibly leak. Plus it’s a kilo or 2 ya don’t need

[@Justjeepingadventures]

Good video my friend!

[@operation4wheelz]

Thanks mate. Hopefully it saves people from headaches.

[@abbasjweer95]

I need help

[@drewbaas9073]

I have a 21’ ecodeisel 3.0L Willy’s, does yours have DEF fluid? And all that emissions garbage like the particulate filter, ect.? Mine is very low mileage and was trying to figure out where to add the German filter catch can that you Aussies love, and where I’ve done most of my research from. Thanks.

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate. Yep. The 2.2 uses DEF, has DPF, EGR and PCV system. I don’t use a catch can and never have on any of my diesels. Though it certainly is plastered all over the internet, that you NEED a catch can, particularly in Australia. The fact is that in the vast majority of cases is just a waste of money and may even cause problems, especially if the filter in the catch can gets clogged and can cause the crank case to over pressurise. My personal opinion. Don’t get it done unless you actually need it. If it’s functioning properly, and you aren’t just doing heaps of cold starts you should have no issue with build up on the inlet. Modern diesels love good solid highway kms too. It gives the DPF a chance to burn and keeps the inlet clear.

[@drewbaas9073]

@@operation4wheelz I’ve seen where older diesels will over pressure, but the new ones don’t seem to, I’ll see and test regularly if I do the install. The problem lays with the 3.0L motor in the EGR tube cooling too quickly before the intake and oily soot gumming the intake. Why the intake isn’t made of metal is beyond me, and why the water line to the turbo cooler is not only under the intake but also has a rubber hose section is just asking for a leak. Why? Just why? I did notice on videos of the similar Ram truck diesel engines that the soot in the intake is a lot less and is dry and not oily with a proper catch can. I do quite love my truck, but the soot issue will be a pain in the future as with all modern diesels. An EGR delete is not an option or wise. But perhaps eventually an EGR bypass tube after the engine warms up? 🤔 Ya know for when the zombie apocalypse happens. If I were to put cleaner in the intake and blow it all out, there goes all those expensive exhaust components, so I guess we’re stuck in a love hate relationship.

[@operation4wheelz]

It’s a matter for yourself. But it’s completely normal for a there to be a thin film of oil in the piping. Once the engine is up to temperature, there should be near no blow by from the crank case. So if you do nice long drives, the oil should pass through the system leaving only a thin film of oil in the piping. Same with the soot from the EGR. It won’t get a chance to settle and clag up. Hardly anyone actually runs catch cans down under despite the marketing on them, I don’t know a single person whos actually had a problem with their diesel due to an overly clogged inlet. It happens, but it’s quite rare.

[@drewbaas9073]

@@operation4wheelz I’ll check the EGR tube at 30,000 miles and for now I’ll leave the can off until I talk with local pro mechanics, which will most likely say the same thing. I’m thinking of doing OnlyFans for Jeep parts now, lol. Thanks for your replies, and keep wheeling my friend.

[@operation4wheelz]

It’s the inlet manifold you’ll need to check. Expect some oily residue, that’s normal.

[@towzone100]

Love the channel. I have a question about isolating the aux battery. If I wanted to remove the battery at this point what else would need to be done?

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate. I can’t see why you couldn’t just remove it from the vehicle and make sure cables that connect it to the main battery are either taped off and removed.

[@towzone100]

Thanks for getting back to me. I kept it in for now because it is still under warranty. @@operation4wheelz

[@HH73629]

Hi Mate. I’ve found lots of useful info from your channel… just wondering, what would happen if you forgot to turn ESS off, and it was triggered after you brake at traffic light? After aux battery deleted like you did.

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate. Glad the information helps. Mate the ESS system still works a normal provided the main battery is healthy. Many times I’ve forgotten to turn it off and it just functions as normal 100% from the factory. In saying that… I wouldn’t rely on it. There has to be some logic to having an aux battery… Not sure what it is, but the engineers must have a reason. Since the old factory main battery wore out, I’ve actually replaced it with a century battery with a bit more CCAs, just for a bit of piece of mind I guess.

[@HH73629]

@@operation4wheelz Thanks for replying.. I replaced main under warranty last year..Now the battery died again less than 1 year..I assume they are killing each other as per what I've read..So I want to get a new main and isolate the aux batt. Good to hear everything is woking as normal.. I always turn ESS off...Just incase I forgot to do it, I was worried about any issue may occur.

[@operation4wheelz]

@@HH73629 are you in Australia?

[@HH73629]

@@operation4wheelz Yes, Im at SYD.

[@operation4wheelz]

Cool. Just duck down to supercheap, they have a good quality heavy duty battery for them, that has a bit more CCAs, I think about 800 from memory … I think it was about $300

[@BrunoAE86]

Hey buddy, got the same car here in the EU. Luv the 2.2, best engine for the Wrangler IMHO.... Quick question, do you have any steering issues... Like steering wheel low amplitude high frequency vibration and/or subtle body vibration at highway speeds like 70+mph....? I get some weird road feedback like this between 110 and 130kph. Looking into steering gear to try sorting it out. Let me know, thanks!

[@operation4wheelz]

Hi mate. If you’re referring to what is commonly known as “Death wobble”, I don’t currently have that issue. How ever it’s quite common on all solid axle vehicles. I had it in my old JK, but it’s actually quite easily resolved. Essentially, it’s worn suspension bushings (usually the pan hard rod (track bar) or loose or worn joints in the steering components. It can be frustrating for people because Jeep technicians often don’t understand it and blame it on wheel balance. It should be something that’s fixed under warranty, or an easier long term solution is to replace the track bar (if that’s the issue) with a heavy duty option that can have its bushings replaced when required. Hope that helps. I can do a quick video on how to diagnose it if need be.

[@americanpatriot8996]

They do make some products that fix death wobble - if you urgent fixed your issue yet let me know and I can send a list of items and the you tube videos showing it.

[@BayJoua]

I’m having death wobble issue as of lately. First it was a loose tie rod end on the driver side. Tighten the nut and death wobble went away. Now it’s coming back and I’m not sure what it is. What do you recommend I check?

[@operation4wheelz]

@@BayJoua The front track bar/panhard rod is the most common problem. The bushings wear out meaning there will be some lateral play with the axle from the frame. Hit a bump at speed and it will become a wobble. To diagnose, leave the vehicle switched off, lay under the front of the car and have someone move the steering left to right. You’ll probably be able to work out whats loose.

[@salami99]

Check front track bar for play.

[@FM-ig3th]

love my JL 3.6 eTorque...no aux battery.

[@operation4wheelz]

Nice. The aux seems so pointless

[@salami99]

Good video, worth noting in the USA the battery is the Second wire you have to remove, the first piggy back (easy one) is the body ground.

[@operation4wheelz]

Ah ok… not sure about the US ones, but I was able to trace the cables anyway.

[@lonewolf4827]

Salami99 can you clarify your comment please?

[@michaelsyoutubechannel5857]

When trying to identify which negative battery cable to remove, I believe it depends on the year your Jeep was made. My 2020 JL was the one without the post. Others have written that if this doesn't work when you remove the first cable, reattach it and remove the other battery cable attached to the negative terminal.

[@TwoFeatherChannel]

the majority of Lithium batt-rays are Deep Cycle for Low draw over Longer time usage. auto starting batt-rays need High Cranking Amps to turn over engine, which a Deep Cycle batt-ray doesn't have High Cranking Amps. Recently some companies have come out with Lithium batt-rays with High Cranking Amps but they sell for over $2000 dollars each. Heat is the death of All batt-ray types, not just Lithium. Engine bay is the worst place for a batt-ray to be.

[@operation4wheelz]

You are correct that all batteries are susceptible to extreme temps. But lithium is particularly susceptible. Cranking Lithium batteries will work under the bonnet, but their life is significantly reduced probably somewhere in the range of 10 years down to 3 or 4. Meaning the outlay for the lithium is pointless.

[@eggdude5460]

man, I want a 2.2L Turbo diesel :(

[@operation4wheelz]

It’s such a good little engine. Buttery smooth

[@eggdude5460]

@@operation4wheelz really? I have the 2.0L with eTorque and it's not rough per say, but it's jumpy and jerky at times. At idle it already sounds diesel-esq, if only it could run on corn juice (beautiful jeep, absolutely jealous)

[@operation4wheelz]

@@eggdude5460 I’m planning on doing a vid on it soon. Killing off the 2.2 was the dumbest this Jeep ever did. It should be the main engine

[@abbasjweer95]

Are you help me , please

[@operation4wheelz]

What do you need help with?

[@abbasjweer95]

@@operation4wheelz I am from Iraq, I have a Jeep Compass, and I want to remove the secondary battery. Do I connect the ground wire of the secondary battery to the negative pole of the main battery, or do I remove it permanently?

[@operation4wheelz]

@@abbasjweer95 I’m not familiar with the compass, but I would assume it’s similar to the Wrangler. You just need to disconnect the ground wire between the two batteries and tape it off so it doesn’t ground on anything else like the chassis. The ground wire from the main battery should stay connected to the chassis as normal.

[@abbasjweer95]

@@operation4wheelz good . And the positive wire of the small battery, should I connect it to the positive pole of the main battery?

[@operation4wheelz]

@@abbasjweer95 once the negative is disconnected, the batteries should no longer be linked. You can leave the red one be.