How to fix a stripped thread at home - like a pro! | Auto Expert John Cadogan

[@garychaplin9861]

As a retired heavy equipment repairer I have a large box of almost every size Helicoil (genuine)that was available. I used them because they were often the only way to do an on site repair but I always hated the bloody things. I have lost count of the number of times that they have come out of holes, Sump plug repair is one of the worst, with all that oil they just about jump out wrapped around the plug every time you take out the plug. A far better, stronger less troublesome solution is a threaded insert, my favorite was the Caterpillar inserts with hammer in locking pins. Unfortunately not made in a wide range of sizes and more expensive but so reliable.

[@randomoldbloke]

Hellcoils are devil spawn I spent 45 years field service on mainly heavy earthmoving gear . Thread inserts are always the answer . Am pretty sure Komatsu make metric inserts , been retired broken for 10 years . Enjoy your retirement

[@jefftheaussie2225]

They have got me out of trouble many times especially in alloy…motor bike engines. Wouldn’t be without them.

[@martinlang9615]

I had a 1981 XD Ford Falcon Ute decades ago that was dual fuel (LPG petrol). The alloy head was soft. Tried HeliCoil and the blasted thing stripped pulling out. So after then using the insert with 4 pins locking it in place, it lasted … (as far as I know). So superior. Those rocker arm bolt holders were on the 4.1 litre straight 6 cylinder - remember them!? Damm near 40 plus years ago

[@martinlang9615]

Oh by the way, back then the cheapest LPG in Brisbane (same price for over a month) was 18.9 cents per litre. I ALWAYS got change from $10 and it always got me 300 klms regardless if it was highway only or round Brissy. Compare that to the running costs now. Shows how much we are all being screwed now.

[@toml8142]

They get you the long out of trouble, but fuck every basterd after you over! Just don’t use any lube with the new screw!!

[@paulputnam2305]

As a machinist for as long as I care to remember, I absolutely approve of this message. Good Job!

[@davidforbes6250]

He is good.

[@glenncpw]

Many years ago with a 6 Cylinder Falcon motor, stripped the rocker gear thread. I was out in the wilds of outback Queensland, the fella from the local garage sold me a insert and lent me his kit to install. The head is still down the back yard with said insert still in it. Good onya

[@martinlang9615]

Very similar story to my comment!

[@fanman4230]

Normal practice, for Helicoils, is to go about 1.5 pitches below the mating face. I would think these are similar. Always take out the tangs and when all the threads are fitted, make sure the number of tangs matches the threads fitted so you don't get any nasty surprises as the missing tang lunches your newly rebuilt gearbox.

[@MyManEarl]

I worked as a machinist apprentice in automotive job shops in Detroit before finishing my engineering degree. To this day, I think 1x2x3 blocks are the unsung hero of proper setups and I have a collection of solid ones, holed ones, and threaded ones that make my everyday existence, whether at work, at DIY, or doing hobby work, invaluable. They're also useful in setting up zero positions for CNC. Glad to see you making good use of them in the fatcave, John.

[@AutoExpertJC]

I agree with you, Earl. A man without 123 blocks knows not what he is missing out on...

[@greatpar]

Brilliant as usual. Really enjoy your delivery. Plain, simple to the point. No FIGJAM. Always something interesting. Cheers 👍🇦🇺

[@dlux703]

When you were talking about getting the thread tapping debris out of your tapped hole, it occurred to me how many times I see people using compressed air for these kind of tasks, when they should be using their shop-vac. There are very good, cheap focused suction nozzles available for shop vacuums that work surprising well. Way better than blowing crap all over your workshop, car, etc. with an air nozzle, and in the process, creating at least double the clean-up down the road.

[@michaelohman4980]

The advice about having a practice is good. Same goes for welding and other procedures that you maybe inexperienced or rusty with. Good video

[@mikelastname]

That is indeed why the earth clamp has a nice face on it, no?

[@patrickvanderlaan1151]

Thx John, bought some years ago at a closing down sale with the idea “they’ll come in handy one day”. Touch wood, that day hasn’t come yet but now I have a clearer idea of how to use them.

[@kenpickett9317]

Worth mentioning that there are 2 versions of thread inserts. Free running and locking types.

[@ronhaefner7833]

Also very useful for converting USC threads over to SI to utilize newer accessories on some equipment.

[@kieranokeeffe1363]

Another brilliant video John, respect from Uk 🇬🇧

[@markhanson8366]

Top 'shop' class! Love the enthusiasm and the sincerely good explanations. Def worth listening to those that know their stuff.

[@bobyearley5088]

I rarely use a Helicoil but when I do.......I pick the broken tab out (in a blind hole) with a magnet. Far better than using compressed air.

[@LTVoyager]

Unless the insert is stainless in which case the magnet may not be able to remove it. Better to use a Tangless Helicoil.

[@andybee4236]

18,8 stainless is able to be picked up by magnets. I did half a day of research before using them because I could pick up a helicoil with a magnet. I wanted stainless in a marine environment.

[@LTVoyager]

@@andybee4236 Stainless is very slightly magnetic and magnetism varies by alloy, but many are so weak that a small piece will not be picked up by most magnets. That is why I said “may.” The only way to know is to try before installing the insert. Or better yet, use a tangless helicoil.

[@CogsOz]

One thing I'd add is to use the sleeve on the insertion tool. This is designed to sit against the top of the insert and hold the coils against each other, so needs to be adjusted depending on the length of insert in use, and you hold a small amount of downward pressure on the tool as you screw in the insert. It prevents the insert from jumping threads as it enters the hole, not a common occurrence but a right pain in the arse when it does happen. I've had it happen once, and have used the sleeve ever since. It also handily indicates when the insert is below the surface.

[@davidwild66]

I spent a bit of time working on electric motors in a rewinding business and these thread repairers were fantastic. Another good tool for getting the stump of a broken bolt out of a hole is a set of reverse twist drill bits...a spray or lube (I generally use Inox Lanolin spray) and one of those drill bits with your drill in reverse gives you a pretty good shot at getting it out, without having to resort to the thread repair kit.

[@robertlamarche3674]

Love YA !! my "down under buddy" --- Old Canadian CAT Field Serv. Rep from the Arctic Circle !! Nothing quite like being north of the Cambrian Shield at -40C .. to make you appreciate a helicoil in a 3406 Gen block !! -- You are a dying breed my brother !! Keep up the excellent work !!

[@murrieteacher]

They have been a sanity saver. I also use Rivnuts too. And the great Dzus fasteners that are a bloody mystery but would be perfect for an engine inspection plate that at the moment is held by M8 bolts. So John, how about a video on Dzus fasteners?

[@moogz2478]

Another thread repair product worthy of a note is Time-Sert or Big-Sert. Coil types can bind and lock up or unwind if screws are regularly removed and replaced due to the wire flexing in the parent material. This reduces the surface area in contact and, in turn, the friction holding it in place. While the different types of "Serts" are not as strong as the coil types, they're an excellent alternative that is easier to install and doesn't have the "flexing" issue the wire types have. For example, A sump or spark plug hole is better suited to a Time-Sert, whereas a coil type would be better suited to a turbine where the fastener stays assembled and can provide better strength.

[@ahmadghosheh3104]

I love the TomeSert. Used the kit to fix all 10 head bolt hols in a Camry engine. I never ever dis anything remotely close to that before, was very nervous. Yet, the kit walled me through it, fixed all holes and the car is in use daily.

[@apistosig4173]

Bondhus - the first allen keys I ever encountered eons ago and always fabulous. I also use WERA which I consider equally good.

[@AutoExpertJC]

wera is also excellent, as is Unbrako and Brighton Best.

[@apistosig4173]

Unbrako In have some - Brighton I ain't heard of - will go check 'em out - thanks John@@AutoExpertJC

[@bobbob8229]

moderndaytinker here; Unbrako are softer than ALLAN, so they do twist under severe duty 😊

[@apistosig4173]

Had unbrako most of my life and they have never let me down - just bought a new imperial set - my metric are Wera@@bobbob8229

[@guzzijohn66]

Great to see the real Sidchrome spanner at 9:30. "Made in Australia"

[@mark64tanner]

Great vid mate. Riv Nuts might be a good subject for another episode. Great info as always All the best

[@eyerollthereforeiam1709]

Love the Fat Cave stuff, John.

[@AutoExpertJC]

Thank you.

[@BorisEkner]

When I worked as a radar engineer assembling rotary joints (all made of aluminum) we used HeliCoil in every threaded hole. The coil thread was way stronger than the aluminium it was threaded into.

[@bettysteve322716]

watched this a while ago, had it happen to me yesterday, came back for the tutorial refresher, thanks mate, they work the treat, now l have steel on stainless thread instead of steel on aluminium thread. Beat tapping from M4-M5 and suffering the same problem in the future. (notice how they tell you to use a 4.2 or 5.2 drill bit, and they come in 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 sizes?)

[@richardwalsh5570]

Yep, thats how we do it John 😊 40 year Fitter and Turner

[@AutoExpertJC]

Thank you very much, Richard - respect, dude.

[@michaelperry4308]

At Rolls Royce Aero we fitted Helicoils in every bolt hole, they were silver coated because of the heat and to prevent corrosion of dissimilar metals, but the idea is brilliant. If you start with a 5/16th bolt and ithe thread somehow gets damaged, helical it and keep the bolt the same size. If the bolt strips out the thread in say a cylinder block, helical the stripped hole, the original bolt can be used and if the block is Aluminium when the bolt goes back in, it is into a steel thread, not Aluminium and the steel bolt cannot cut the softer metal. Never had one fail. They save much more money and time than they cost, 2 "do not's" 1 DO NOT use 2 helicons in the same hole, buy longer ones if needed, and 2 count your Tangs in and out, disaster can lie there.

[@hectorshouse7348]

Some great advice there…thank you

[@djmini2numpty141]

i used a helicoil on the head of my NBC110 Postie, absolutely a breeze to use ! great tip on this subject and good to know there is a cheaper alternative that works. frank

[@willtricks9432]

I like a bit of standardization, Nice kit. Bet I can't find it here in the UK. Cheers

[@andoletube]

I use a vacuum rather than compressed air for metal fragments. Much safer and less messy.

[@bobbob8229]

I've made up nozzles with tubes from spray cans. Always fit an old plastic screw cap around them -- to deflect chips downward. Once you use one - you'll just leave it on there 😊

[@stusue9733]

The only inserts I had multiple uses on was a couple of M6 bolts on a machine tool that were used ten or so times a day. The thread in some pretty tough steel lasted about 6 months. The helicoils were still going 15 years later having worn out at least one set of unbreako cap screws.

[@v8snail]

Those fake Suzi Coil air lines are a nightmare for tangling. Procure a genuine Nitto coil with one touch fittings and you'll never regret it. 15 years later I still use mine and admire how they don't tangle and how easy the fittings just work.

[@thewholls7176]

Good video John back in 1992…….. I rebuilt a Holden 308 for a buddy of mine at uni and it came out of a ski boat and as you know the river water cools the motor Well…… every head bolt came out and took the thread with it. Back, then the only product was called HeliCoil every single bolt needed a Helicoil, and as you know some of those bolts go through the exposed water jackets, so they just get pounded corrosion wise….. And that motor held together for many years, so this sort of stuff he’s not Mickey Mouse. It works. And Tiffany was very happy ……..

[@terrystarr3012]

Love your work.regards

[@thejobinterview9927]

Helicoils good, timeserts better, stronger and more permanent. Worth anther vid on these

[@zdog90210]

Recently I was doing work on two different vehicles where I had both strip out in sheet metal and I discovered "rivnuts" idk exact name but they are awesome and super simple to install

[@joepotts5074]

John, your videos are consistently informative and entertaining, a great combo. Thoughts on using thread locker on the thread inserts?

[@BorisEkner]

In the mid 1980’s my kids were racing 50cc go-karts. The homologous 2 stroke engine had cylinder and cylinder top as one peace/one unit. When I managed to destroy the spark plug thread we first tried the thread repair kit that looks like a socket. It didn’t work. At the time we couldn’t find any HeliCoil or equivalent so we had to scrap the cylinder.

[@morriewyatt6234]

Another advantage of thread inserts like helicoils is that the OD of the coil provides a greater area of contact with the parent material than the originally tapped thread. Spreads the load over a greater area. Keenserts are another brand of thread repair inserts. They have a couple of advantages over helicoils. First advantage is that they don't require non-standard taps, as they have standard threads internally and externally. The other advantage is they have a number of triangular keys that you hammer into place after installing the insert, ensuring that the insert can't ever accidentally back itself out of the parent material. Their downside is that they require you to drill and tap to bit larger diameter than the equivalent helicoil.

[@BlackhawkPilot]

Very good to change the French Metric motor bolts in my 1954 MG TD. Have standard sizes and can use new bolts off the shelf that are much less expensive than FM, if you can find them.

[@trubusCZ]

Great report! Will there be a part 2 with "how to extract broken bolt - like a pro" though? Seems like a natural related topic to me.

[@ScottyPilot]

When Righty tighty becomes Righty loosey... I love me a good helicol... As an aircraft engineer we love `em..!

[@mini696]

Best purchase alongside a thread repair kit, is a tap and die set.

[@pablorages]

There you go ... I just purchased a set of tapping tools !

[@RobertSmith-di5ll]

the tubby guy is a marvel

[@busarob1969]

Your doing a story on helicoils now? God as an engine reconditioner I have installed thousands, I watch your next video, Ben here done this

[@TaylerMade]

as a furniture maker i often use bolts into wood with jigs. a bolt into wood is actually pretty strong and handles a bolt with a knob on to tighten things down. however, over time with a jig that is used often the threads do get looser. i am thinking if i use a coil insert then i can keep using the jig without having to drill out the hole, inserting a plug, drilling and tapping it out again.

[@AutoExpertJC]

Bolts into wood: Buy threaded brass inserts designed specifically for the purpose.

[@jefftheaussie2225]

I have used them in billiard balls for gear knobs.

[@paulcanon5533]

Love me a good band saw. Worth the $$.

[@derekhammond1732]

Outboard motors love helicoils, especially head and water jacket repairs

[@thehobbymachinistnz]

Great video John. Does the sharp corner at the top end of the helicoil stop the helicoil from unwinding when you unscrew and remove the bolt? If so, I presume that Loctite is not required to keep the helicoil in?

[@AutoExpertJC]

It's just held in place by friction/tension. They are damn hard to extract (although you might pick the ned free and un-coil them). Loctite is not necessary.

[@lyfandeth]

In the marine and aviation industries, we ALWAYS use Tefgel or a similar galvanic blocking past when steel and alu parts are put in contact. No more contact corrossion. Its a religion.

[@allanmoger1838]

I have removed them before, if you can pick the end up then they “unwind” out of the hole. Obviously better not to need to though! I rebuilt a Maserati once and made it better than factory thanks to Helicoil. The things we do….

[@stuartwood7252]

Thread repair kit + rivnut kit = invincible.

[@stevesanelli90]

Damn it JC! Don’t do me out of a CAD job buddy! We gotta keep the wheels turning!

[@andy1way]

That was a great pitch for helicoil

[@sarinsarin7898]

The solid walled "time certs" I think they are called are better than those poxy springy helicoils.

[@ibretus]

Good practice is to loctite insert into hole making sure you blow out any residue. That way it won't wind out when removing bolt later

[@brendanpells912]

I've used helicoils to restore the threads in motorcycle cylinder heads for the exhaust bolts. Steel bolts into aluminium alloy eventually causes the aluminium to corrode into powder. Makes you wonder what's going to happen with these 'giga-cast' aluminium sub-frames after a few years exposed to salt spray

[@dougstubbs9637]

So, the thread of this upload is not to leave yourself screwed.

[@andybee4236]

Punny😂

[@telwood15]

Nice one

[@paulnewman9275]

First day of Valencia Formula E pre-season test cancelled after fire The opening day of Formula E pre-season testing in Valencia has been cancelled following a garage fire. The blaze took place shortly before 1pm local time in Spain following a suspected explosion from the pit box of battery supplier WAE (formerly known as Williams Advanced Engineering

[@jefftheaussie2225]

You can get them out. Pick the top bit of thread out of the parent thread with a small screwdriver and grab it with needle nose pliers and twist it out backwards.

[@MattBrownbill]

Did you say 'ringroller' (which sounds painful) or 'mingmoler'?

[@djmini2numpty141]

hi John, do you have an opinion or thoughts on rivnuts ? cheers frank

[@AutoExpertJC]

They're OK - especially for panels you can't get to the other side of.

[@cradilyz]

snapped bolts next? (please, thanks)

[@danold6443]

Nice informative vid for all those that are not in the metal trade. If you are lazy you can use the install tool to pop the tang off too, just pull out and rotate 90 deg and bump. Not that I would recommend that! Love to see the unpaid advertisements for the actual good stuff, ie: the Bondhus allen keys. They are just the standard in my opinion. I hate when cheaper ball end key balls break off in the cap head! The only issue I have is I work with metric course, metric fine, UNC and UNF and the odd Whitworth so multi size kits for all end up costing large for a home situation. I've even had to make an internal M14 x 0.5 thread once.Custom all the way! No kit for that! Mazak came to help 🙂 Not everybody will have a sticky bum drill too, so the battery drill will be the go with all of its various angles you can achieve, OS/oval hole guaranteed. Tip is to tap it square, force the tap over to be normal (square) to the face you are tapping. The thread is the key, not the drilled hole. The square block was a good tip for those at home. Can also use a piece of square tube if needed. I also make sure the top of the insert is actually wound far enough in to be totally retained in the tapped section/full engagement....if that make sense?

[@AutoExpertJC]

All very sound tips, clearly articulated. Thank you very much for watching and taking the time to comment.

[@toml8142]

As a dick that is subject to hellicoils, I approve of the ‘bodge job is ‘’stronger” than then the bolt’. Makes it super easy to remove the any screw from any messed up into a helli coil!

[@Ful-OGold]

Yep I was a victim of air compressor swarf attack. I was wearing safety glasses but still got hit at just the right angle that I had to go to hospital to get metal removed from my eye.

[@ruppyhouse]

A professional mechanic won't strip the sump bolt. They will do it properly and put a crack in the sump. Thank you Mr Honda Service Technician! Now I know how to replace the sump on my partners Honda Civic.

[@clintonbutton712]

Where do you buy your 123 blocks to get ok quality ones?

[@garycarter1073]

True story. Youngest son's Pajero developed a rub hole in the pressure line from the compressor to the condenser (and a big thank you incompetent mechanic that probably charges $150 an hour). Repairers would not attempt to remove the pressure line from the condenser as the fitting bolt was seized. So, drove the devil's spawn home, removed the radiator, released the pressure line, and pulled the condenser out with the pressure line attached. The fix was to grind most of the bolt head off, then file down to the surface of the fitting. Centre punch the bolt then mount in a drill press and drill out the bolt. Grade 8 bolt into aluminum and, wait for it, no anti-seize. Drill for a thread insert, fit and rebuild. Cost was 3 hours of my time and and about 1 Aussie Pesos to get it ready for regassing.

[@typhoon-7]

Hi John, I once sent you a NASA document on spring washers if you remember. My engineering teams stopped using Helicoils after a number of high stress failures on trains. We use Keenserts now. Much more reliable for big bolted joint porn. Cheers.

[@NNoradIV]

Hello John, I've had coils like this in various application, and they always end up coming out. In both cases, transmission case and AP Racing brake caliper. Do you have tips for us to prevent that from happening? Thanks!

[@gazzafloss]

Have you tried a bit of "Threadlocker" loctite on the outside of the helicoil? Don't put the bolt in until the outer loctite has had a chance to set up a bit, remove any excess loctite from the inside.

[@markchip1]

Could you not just borrow Tiffany's Suzuki Vitara to get you to work on Monday??

[@melgross]

These inserts are good for a lot of things, but not for everything. I’ve been using them for decades, but there are times when solid inserts are more secure. I forget the name, EZ something or other. I like these because if the epoxy pods. Never had one come out. They even work really well in hardwood!. But just remember that the material must be thicker than the length of the installed insert. If it’s not, then you can’t use these.

[@ifell3]

So the insert taps into a soft aluminium and the insert is harder than the base material and the fastener. But wouldn't the insert just strip out the base material threads, or do you have more compression using the insert on the base material threads?

[@AutoExpertJC]

No.

[@bobbob8229]

moderndaytinker here; the insert spreads the tension force. A bolt always stretches which makes it Pull Harder at the top of the hole.😊

[@ifell3]

@@bobbob8229 awesome reply!! Cheers

[@jefftheaussie2225]

You are using the equivalent of the next size up bolt because the insert is so hard. You can strip the thread off the your old bolt but you won’t strip the recoil.

[@ifell3]

@@jefftheaussie2225 yes, but what I was getting at is, if you add the insert, you add it to a tapped base material. Why wouldn't that strip, pulling out the bolt and the insert ^^

[@raycollington4310]

I thought heli-coil type repairs were old fashioned. Wurth Time-Serts seem a bit more modern.

[@simonni4483]

I think Wurth makes a version of this called timesert

[@schrenk-d]

Last time I was stuck like this, we solved it with the trusty MIG, drill and tapped. Did I mention we had to do it 4 times as we kept getting the bastard hole in the wrong spot... Happened 22 years ago. Young and silly, and had no idea these existed.

[@bobdadruma]

The HeliCoil Is better than bottled beer. The hardest part is removing or drilling the broken off bolt. That is sweats-ville. Once you get past the drilling of the old bolt, you are home free as we say in, (MERICA! :)

[@nojhampton]

Nuts!

[@chapposa]

Helicoil god send

[@cedhome7945]

I want a dingo piss creek t shirt ( you know you want one too)

[@bomberaustychunksbruv4119]

Every alloy thread on my old Triumph (bike) has one of these in it, because at the age of 50+ every thread is shagged out.

[@islasdad5775]

Too the new players, a 3mm neo mag pick up tool will get you sorted in most situations.

[@marcusfenske421]

Measure twice cut once……no no ….. I measure once and so I can go to Bunnings twice! 😂

[@alanhilder1883]

So 10mm keys are the opposite to 10mm sockets. Maybe the socket is the juvenile version of the adult key.

[@bobbob8229]

😂😂😂

[@shauncomper1304]

Mmm… should I be slightly worried that I found the m5 to m12 thread repair set slightly arousing? Not Tiffany arousing, but definitely caused a stirring, down there…

[@pigeoncatcher1]

I had to use these last year after some incompetent grease monkey stripped the thread on the sump of my car causing the sump plug to constantly leak, not a drip since.

[@andybee4236]

Outboard engines are screaming for these. Stainless bolts in cast aluminium is a nightmare. It's also a good idea to smear some grease on bolts in Outboards, it slows galvanic oxidation and reduces fusions.

[@australianoz]

M4, M6, M8, M10 thread repair kits sitting on the shelf ready to be used when ready....ask me why i have them there just in case.

[@johnperry7534]

Thanks mate , Had some Experience in Chinese factories and the reason they cheap out on a cheap Part ruining a good machine is to save a fraction of a yen by finding the cheapest supplier in China who is always a fraud. It’s annoying because when the product is in australia sold to a customer who brings it back to you ,you fix it at the Australian parts and labour rate. And it cost more to return it to the supplier than it’s worth, and if something from China goes wrong in australia , good luck getting a remedy for that back from your Chinese manufacturer, they will delay, obfuscate, confuse and frustrate you to an early grave.

[@basilwatson1]

Ummm in 35 years of working in as a mechanic... Ive only used helicoils ..inserts about two or three times .. two were sump plugs.. bmw gs and Suzuki gs380.. .. have i been lucky? I dont know ...so far so good ... As for gluing two things together ...i cant even glue me fingers... so epoxy anything is out of the question

[@John-he9dj]

Wouldn’t work on a job I saw a couple of days ago this mechanic used a rattle gun on a sump plug to tighten , oil everywhere,destroying the sump.

[@ouvragedefeu]

Makes me wish I had a shed

[@georgecurtis6463]

Well, my experiance in the early 70s with these are beyond junk. I found time serts and never looked back.

[@jackwood8307]

❤

[@ScottMurrayBestFamilyCars]

I managed to avoid stripping a single thread using my DeWalt cordless drill to assemble flatpack furniture (instead of the hex key). My other half just didn't appreciate the level of skill it required to do that.

[@AutoExpertJC]

Ikea ninja...

[@ScottMurrayBestFamilyCars]

@@AutoExpertJC Bunnings has surprisingly not-shit quality office furniture.

[@johnflynn5750]

Any bandsaw is only as good as the quality of the blade..