How To Fix a Washing Machine That Won't Spin: Gearbox Overhaul & Neutral Drain Kit

If your washing machine won't spin and you've determined that it's a problem with the transmission, then this video will show you how to fix the problem by doing a partial overhaul of the gearbox assembly. Replacing the parts with a neutral drain repair kit will also solve the no spin condition.
Check below for links to the parts you'll need and diagrams and schematics you may need.
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Neutral Drain Kit:
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Whirlpool Agitator shaft complete:
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Gear Oil:
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Whirlpool OEM 350572 Gear Oil:
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Oil resistant gasket maker:
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Here is a link to the Whirlpool manual that explains the workings of their transmission:
applianceassistant.com/Servic...
Direct Drive Transmission Schematic:
www.canva.com/design/DAFIrdX0...
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Harper & Knowles
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Thanks for watching!

[@ronz101]

Personally I'm grateful that you've paid attention too and worked with this technology in the long run. What you have learned no one can take from you. Nothing but admiration for your loyalty to the product. 🎉. '24

[@HarperandKnowles]

Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching too!

[@TheAltarBillies]

Thank you !! Thank you!! I just rebuilt my washer transmission and followed your directions exactly and hit subscribe as well as a like!!!! I could not have done it without your help Chip!!!

[@HarperandKnowles]

Wow! I’m glad my video was helpful. Thanks for liking and subscribing! Welcome to my channel.

[@3gcraftsman]

The bucket rig is genius. Thanks for the video.

[@HarperandKnowles]

It is handy! Thanks for watching!

[@MS-wn4vi]

Thanks so much Chip - did my second transmission today and once again I followed your step by step video - We sure appreciate you!!

[@HarperandKnowles]

Great to hear! Thanks for watching the video!

[@matttoigo]

Thanks for the great video! My washer went out and I bought a full new transmission (my kid was in the middle of potty training and needed a quick fix), but used this video to rebuild the old one so now I have a spare. The large plastic gear was stripped out which seems to be pretty common and I ended up cleaning the entire thing out since the oil had turned to sludge. In the US it's about $160 in savings to rebuild one instead of buy a new one and I'd also check the seal on the bottom where the motor coupling mounts too since they can leak and are easy to fix while you have it out.

[@HarperandKnowles]

I’m glad my video was helpful. Thanks for sharing your experience and for watching too!

[@rickeykeeton4770]

I have often wondered if the oil might get gummy and cause the problem.

[@davejoseph5615]

I see oil on the floor. I guess my bottom seal may be failing.

[@davidcoggins6284]

Another good video Chip. I guess you would always replace the neutral drain kit in the gearbox of any machine that you sell and factor that into the cost. They are a bit costly here in Australia, but you would probably get a fair price wholesale in the US. Thanks for your work.

[@HarperandKnowles]

Hey, thanks for watching David. Yeah, that's one thing I always change before I resell a machine, that and the lid switch. I'm glad to know my videos are reaching way across the globe, Australia, imagine that!

[@MrMesk1]

I LOVE your videos Chip. I replaced the clutch and the coupler, but the stem/shaft doesn't seem to wanna spin... I tried by hand but it just don't wanna move. Do you think I need oil in it? Older Kenmore 80 series.

[@HarperandKnowles]

Thank you so much for your kind words and for reaching out with your question. I truly appreciate your support, and I'm glad my videos have been helpful to you. Based on your description, it sounds like you may be dealing with an issue related to the main drive gear in your transmission. If the machine agitates but won't spin, it could be due to the large plastic spin gear having worn teeth that are no longer meshing with the pinion gear. To investigate this, you'll need to remove the transmission and pull off the cover plate. Carefully examine the large plastic spin gear and check for any signs of wear or damage. If you find that the teeth are indeed worn, a new neutral drain kit might be the solution to your problem. If you do have to change the neutral drain kit go ahead and drain the oil and clean out the gear case. There will probably be bits of plastic spin gear floating around inside. I hope this information helps you with your Kenmore 80 series washer. Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any further questions or need more assistance. Best of luck with your repair, and thank you again for your support!

[@MrMesk1]

@@HarperandKnowles I GREATLY appreciate you bud... Hopefully this will solve my problem. The Mrs is going nuts with all of this laundry we need to do. 😂

[@rickeykeeton4770]

Speaking at f the ball and plate below the shaft, does the plate go in convex up or down? I’m thinking the convex part fits over the ball? In other words convex pointing up, so fed down over the ball? Do you change neutral drains and lid switches in every unit you get even when they are working properly? Something to consider here. I usually only change them when the washer drains and spins at the same time. Have a couple I need to change now. When they don’t spin, I usually check lid switch and clutch. Been lucky so far. Not sure how much longer I will fool with appliances. I like the old dependable direct drives but getting fewer of them. Not sure how much I want to fool with the electronic pieces of… crap. That being said, I do wish I knew more about repairing the boards, but at 68, not sure about learning that part.

[@HarperandKnowles]

The sequence of reassembly is drop the ball in then drop the plate in with the dimple down then put in the shaft on top of the plate. I do not change neutral drains that are working nor do I change working lid switches. You’re not too old to learn! I'm 67. Thanks for watching!

[@johnmccormick3084]

good video!!

[@HarperandKnowles]

Thank you!

[@johnmccormick3084]

I am having a problem with a Kenmore direct drive washer. Your videos are great help, but still not sure what is going on with it.

[@HarperandKnowles]

Describe your problem I might be able to help you.

[@johnmccormick3084]

Model 110.28972890 started with not spinning. all else working pretty well. Replaced clutch assembly ( old was visually very worn). Also replaced the rubber/plastic connector at the motor transmission junction, replaced the pump since it was leaking as well. reassembled and ran normal cycle. Next day when ran load it was making a clicking noise sounding like near the bottom of machine and the agitation and spin cycles were very slow. Would not remove all water from the clothes. Pump working well, no leaks. When took apart again there is what looks like plastic dust and grease on the top of the trans housing at junction where the clutch sits. It loos like some of the clutch pads nearset the spring are already showing wear.@@HarperandKnowles

[@HarperandKnowles]

The clicking is the motor cycling from start windings to run windings. There is a drag on the machine somewhere. I would remove / disconnect the water pump first and try to spin and see if that works. If it does then it’s the water pump dragging. If not I’d remove the agitator, motor, transmission and pull the spin tube out. Examine all the parts for wear. Pay close attention to the small metal rollers that activate the brake shoes on the spin tube. Your brakes may be dragging and if so you may need to replace the spin tube.

[@billatkins1026]

About how much did the parts run? Is it a profitable repair ? Do you mainly do this repair to your trade ins? Thanks for another great video.

[@HarperandKnowles]

Here’s a link to the parts; amzn.to/3KilR1j It is a profitable repair and I rebuild all my trade-ins before I resell them. Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching another!

[@maximusvonce1381]

Nobody answers this question. What if my whirlpool top loader sometimes spins and sometimes doesn't? Agitator works fine..Clutch is new, and coupler is fine. Lid switch is inactive and is irrelevant. Timer seems to work ok, except on knits and gentle cycle it doesn't work..Other cycles work fine. So is it my timer or transmission?

[@HarperandKnowles]

A question so nice you asked it twice! Thanks for watching… again!

[@stevepope5484]

I replacement coupler. Hard to remove the transmission side. Hard to install that side too. Now my pump is too stiff. Get a new pump now/replaced the coupler. The motor shaft without the pump/ motor reinstalled/ its not free turning?I can turn it with channel locks pretty easy. Coupler same/Hard to rotate. From above/drum won't turn but one way. Drum doest move when I rotate the motor shaft. May be its in a cycle? Getting a new pump tomorrow. Tomorrow. Hope the trans/clutch is ok?

[@HarperandKnowles]

It seems like you're describing some issues with your washing machine. From your description, it appears that you've already replaced the coupler but are experiencing further problems, such as difficulty rotating the motor shaft and the drum not moving properly. Here are some troubleshooting steps to consider: Check the Motor Coupler Installation: Ensure that the motor coupler has been installed correctly. It should fit snugly and connect the motor to the transmission. If it's not installed correctly, this could lead to issues. Inspect the Pump: Since you mentioned getting a new pump, make sure the new pump is installed correctly. Ensure it's aligned properly with the motor. Examine the Clutch: Inspect the clutch for any signs of damage or wear. Cycle Testing: Sometimes, washing machines may not respond immediately to manual rotations. Try running the machine through a short cycle to see if it operates correctly. Make sure it's properly connected to the power source. Seek Professional Help: If the issue persists after checking these components, it may be best to consult a professional appliance repair technician. They can diagnose and address the problem more accurately. Remember to disconnect the washing machine from the power source before attempting any repairs or inspections to ensure your safety. Thanks for watching!

[@obsoleteprofessor2034]

The linked illustration has wrong part numbers. The plastic cams at the bottom of the agitator shaft are p/n 285206, not 285205. Currently, it's cheaper to buy the entire agitator shaft assembly than to buy individual parts

[@HarperandKnowles]

Thanks for catching that Professor. I didn’t look at the diagram that closely.

[@mikemaj8467]

What were the symptoms in this demonstration? What wouldn't spin and when? Thank you.

[@HarperandKnowles]

Indeed, based on the title "Washing Machine Transmission Repair | Won't Spin," the symptoms being described are likely that the washing machine won't spin, specifically during the spin cycle. This issue typically points to a problem with the transmission of the washing machine, which is necessary for the spinning motion during the cycle. When the machine is supposed to spin and effectively wring out the water from the clothes but fails to do so, it indicates that there might be a malfunction or damage in the transmission or related components. It's a straightforward diagnosis based on the title and context given, implicating the transmission's role in the spinning process. Somehow I doubt this is a serious question but thanks for commenting anyway.

[@warmcoffee226]

I literally spun my motor by hand a noticed by looking at the clutch that the agitation worked, but when I spun it the direction for spin cycle, the clutch moved and then stopped and started in a weak way. I'm glad I found this@@HarperandKnowles ! Thank you. I'll start on this transmission

[@HarperandKnowles]

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

[@jaycole3768]

Great video? But im curious wat part in the transmission actually goes bad to cause it not to spin but still agitate

[@HarperandKnowles]

If your transmission won’t spin it’s usually one of the components found in the neutral drain kit. There are three plastic pieces that can fail. The spin gear, the spin pall, and the trip lever. Each of these may get worn to the point they will malfunction. The metal parts won’t usually fail unless there isn’t any gear oil present. Thanks for watching!

[@jaycole3768]

I have a question. Why is the blue weed eater string inside the water level hose on my roper and amana washers

[@HarperandKnowles]

@@jaycole3768 That is an excellent question and one that I wondered about myself. I asked another tech about it once and he told me that when they designed these machines they worried about the pressure hose crimping once it was confined in the console and plugged straight into the control board. I didn't verify his explanation but the stiff core inside the pressure hose would mitigate any crimping. If anyone knows another explanation I'd love to know it! Thanks for that comment my friend, if I find a different answer I'll let you know.

[@jaycole3768]

Thanks for replying. At first I thought some was trying clean the line out and forgot the weed eater string. But wen I opened up another washer and saw the same thing. I was very confused.

[@HarperandKnowles]

👍

[@obsoleteprofessor2034]

I've changed several neutral kits, but for the life of me, I've only seen tiny bits of wear on the arms and can't see how that will stop the neutral drain function.

[@HarperandKnowles]

There’s a small button on the inside of the big gear that wears out first I’m thinking. It’s what hits the trip lever.

[@davidcoggins6284]

@@HarperandKnowles Professor, I found major wear at the end of the spin pawl, where it engages to lock the main wheel.

[@rickeykeeton4770]

@@davidcoggins6284I think I have seen what you are referring to too.

[@kwacz]

I used to have one that was serviceable, but the newer ones are filled with grease and welded together. at least the new one i bought is. I should have fixed my old one because the newer ones are garbage and they wear your clothes out quicker for some reason.

[@HarperandKnowles]

Yes indeed. Those older units were built very well! Thanks for watching!

[@tombev9717]

Great video, I have a problem I'm hoping you can help me with, my washer when going through the cycles would not go in neutral to drain, it would start spinning right away while draining, sometimes it wouldn't spin at all without turning it off and back on a few times, I suspected after searching that I needed a neutral drain kit, after watching several videos I came back to yours as it was the best at explaining, Ok so I replaced the neutral drain kit and clutch while in there, now when it goes through the cycles after agitating it stops, after a few seconds it starts and you see the agitator turn a 1/4 turn, it goes to neutral, drains the water, then it goes into spin, after spin it refills with water for rinse, after agitating for rinse cycle it stops, then the agitator turns a 1/4 turn like before and drains the water and then stops, then after a few seconds the motor starts but doesn't spin, you can reach in and spin the tub by hand and it wants to try and spin but just won't take off, why is it spinning at the first spin cycle but not the final spin, sorry for the long question

[@HarperandKnowles]

You may have a leaking transmission shaft seal that is wetting the clutch pads and causing them to slip by the time it gets to the second spin. In this video Kenmore Washing Machine Disassembly | Rebuild and Repair: PART ONE kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGqrY4GboMqYrrM you can watch me change one about the 29 minute mark. Thanks for watching!

[@tombev9717]

Thanks for the reply, I'll check it out but I didn't notice any fluid leaks when I was in there @@HarperandKnowles

[@HarperandKnowles]

I have seen an article of clothing jammed between the spin basket and tub. That will cause that too. Let me know what you find!

[@tombev9717]

@@HarperandKnowles OK, I think you are correct about the shaft seal, I repulled the tranny and took a closer look and found a dark colored substance on the pads that had been baked on, cleaned the hub and pads and reinstalled and ran several loads of laundry and the thing did great, so I'm waiting on a new seal to show and I found these 6 pad clutches I'm going to give a try, thanks for your help

[@HarperandKnowles]

Six pads are called a commercial clutch. They work well.

[@paulegan2252]

Can I ask a question please? The washing machine has been shaking violently in spin cycle. I have replaced the little scubber pads, springs are all good, and balancing ring is half full of water. Any suggestions. I am thinking it might be a worn seal on the top of the transmission - is the shaft supposed to have a fair amount of play? I plan on replacing the seal and see if that's it. Thoughts? Thanks. Paul

[@HarperandKnowles]

Is the Washer Counterweight Spring part number W10250667 connected to the rear left frame and the tub? Many times the small hole it connects to will rust or wear through or the hook on the long part of the spring will break off causing the tub to move forward and to the right and it will shake violently during the spin cycle.

[@paulegan2252]

@@HarperandKnowles Thank you for responding. Yes it is connected and not broken. Could always be stretched out I guess but looks ok. I am just wondering if is a worn seal on the top of the transmission causing a "wobbly" shift? Seems to have a lot of play. It just seems like that a seal would not be responsible for such a stabilizing force. Thoughts?

[@HarperandKnowles]

It wouldn’t be a seal. It could be a bent tub or the tub isn’t seated on the spin block correctly. I still suspect something is wrong on your suspension. Make sure all of the springs around the tub are correct and that one of your three snubber pads isn’t worn out. If you tip it up and notice wear on the triangular suspension plate that’s an indication of a bad snubber pad. There are also 3 suspension pad plates on that suspension pad. That might be the issue. Check all six plastic pads. Good luck with your repair.

[@paulegan2252]

Thank you for your expertise! I have it all apart - tub, basket, motor, base, pump, transmission, balance ring. I even sanded down the corrosion on base tube, and basket, used some naval jelly, and repainted. :) I will check all of those things you mentioned. Way back. I remember as you said that a spring wore through the hole on frame and I had to drill another. The 3 snubbed pads and 3 plate pads are all intact, but are very smooth and "slick" from wear, seems like that would be expected and happen after a few loads? I have changed them about 5 years ago, but bought all six this time and will replace them since I have it all apart now. I will also try to make sure basket gets seated on drive block properly with spanner nut, though I'm not sure how this could have gotten off. And I will make sure the suspension plate sits right - I have heard that can get misaligned with base. Do you know about how full of water the balance ring should be? Mine is a little over half when I tilt on its side and look through. Thank you again my friend. I really want to keep this 30 year old buddy going if possible. Blessings. Paul

[@HarperandKnowles]

Wow! Sounds like you are doing a complete overhaul. The balance ring is not serviceable and has a specific amount of liquid in it. Good luck with your rebuild!

[@dr.pickle5842]

Screw this, I'm buying a new washer!!

[@HarperandKnowles]

Ha! Thanks for watching!

[@uglysteve1]

Try lemon juice on your hands to get rid of the onion smell on your hands. Don’t know about the gear oil.😊 steve

[@HarperandKnowles]

Great tip! Thanks for watching!