How to Fix Scapular Dyskinesis for Climbers (Shoulder Blade "Winging")

[@HoopersBeta]

10 points to Gryffindor for anyone that spots the typo ;)

[@EmileModesitt]

It's not a typo, it's a lifestyle

[@gregtambo]

I don't know if I want to give 10 points to Gryffindor (or is it Gryffundor? U's and "I"s are basically interchangeable).

[@erickrivera440]

Thanks for showing the back/exercise from different angles. It's so hard to understand what people mean when they say "down and back". It's also helpful when you describe the intent of the movement because it's easier to "get" the mind-body connection. Great video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting.

[@tylervelasquez5639]

These skits always get me 🤣🤣 So helpful!

[@HoopersBeta]

hah thank you! Yeah, the skits have become an integral part :)

[@joji_okami]

I'm pretty sure they are preparing their alternative careers as comedians after they exhaust every possible subject about climbing and training and injuries haha.

[@ezratownsend5025]

This is the most practical and useful scapular dyskinesia exercise video that I have seen on youtube. Great job man. Thank you

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you!

[@whitestaff1]

Love the great comedy and info my man ! Im literally not a climber just a jiu jitsu fan but you help always

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome! Thanks for chiming in

[@VASE8881]

Godbless you sir. A true national treasure.

[@j.r.2628]

Great video! I've been suffering from a decently severe case of scapular winging on my right side after a collarbone fracture. The exercises in this video were very similar to the ones prescribed to me by my physical therapist, and therefore helped me further my understanding of the technique involved with the movements, while providing several variations to more accurately target certain muscles. Thank you for your attention to detail in your videos!

[@Paradyme88]

Thank you for this video! This targets my issue! Hopefully with these workouts I can get my scapulas back on track and send that V0.

[@HoopersBeta]

You got this! :)

[@kais.6266]

dude, this is great content. Like top notch. Laughing and learning, you got my attention.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed! Thanks for the comment.

[@aaronth2796]

Absolutely love the content and explanations! Such an awesome resource!

[@AVPML]

As always thank you for great content and looking for people's health and wellness 🙏

[@cyan0xide]

not a climber but i think i over did the weighted pull/chin ups and pendley rows and now im here

[@teodoratodorova9105]

I really needed this! Thank you very much! It would be awesome if you made something similar for fixing bunions 🙃

[@michalvanata]

Awesome video

[@SethPierceClimbing]

All I want from Hooper is a perfect scapula. ☺️ Love all your information and you got good comedy.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks, Seth! Perfect scapulas ftw!!

[@crispycrimps865]

This helped me finally send my v0+ proj thanks!

[@HoopersBeta]

Crushing it!!

[@paulgranada7203]

Yeah, that's the one I was looking for!! I've struggled with my posture for years and, even if I've improved a lot in my everyday life, I tend to hunch a lot when climbing, so I'm going to give this a good try, thanks a lot!! :) Ps: could I combine this routine wiht your other "once a week to avoid injuries" routine?

[@joshk4372]

I was thinking of adding this as a warmup before I lift or climb. I know you said not to, but is it a terrible idea? The intensity is a small fraction of either my weight or bouldering session, and without any progressive overload, I don't see why this needs to be its own workout.

[@runarflugstad7247]

Takk!

[@MrAlexLowen]

Thank you

[@HoopersBeta]

Welcome!

[@mahyarzohory3884]

Very very good ☺️

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you 😊

[@KnueppelkarlLP]

At exercise A3 and B1 my shoulder snaps at a certain height. Should I get high enough to let it snap (carefully) or better just go as high as possible without snapping? Is "snapping" while doing exercises generally bad and should I avoid it or let it snap really slowly and carefully?

[@p.trrr1]

I have a snapping scapula syndrome which is super irritating. What should I do?

[@juliaramstedt9095]

Thanks so much for the great content! :) I have a question, I've injured my ACL, which I'm seeing a physiotherapist for. Wondering when after an ACL injury it might be possible to start doing some easy climbing again. What moves to maybe be extra careful with.

[@HoopersBeta]

Typically you want to gain clearance from your PT and your surgeon to start climbing again but your best bet to return is top roping. You want to avoid high stepping, or even moderately high stepping, and aggressive heel hooks. You'll of course eventually return to doing that, but high steps with weight over the leg, and stepping up would be far down the road.

[@witheredmedia]

can you talk about scapholunate ligament recovery?

[@LovelyLena070]

Overly utilizing scapular retraction does not help to solve dyskinesis, I tried for a year and my issues did not go away and in fact may have gotten worse. Winging usually occurs because the scapula is already downwardly rotated and anteriorly tilted. Poor postural habits and trigger point formation in the muscles attached to the shoulder must be addressed first, and then the corret brain to body/muscle connections can be made. Nothing inherently wrong with these excercises, but they are probably not going to solve shoulder instability in most cases.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for commenting! You're correct! Pure scapular retraction won't solve all the issues. Fortunately, the exercises chosen were done so not to simply overly utilize scap retraction, but rather they were specifically chosen to improve proper retraction while improving upward rotation and help correct anterior tilting of the scapula, while also creating strength in the lower fibers of the serratus anterior to combat the inferior angle or medial border issues :) Poor postural habits definitely can make matters worse, but are just a part of the equation (posture, strength, mobility, and awareness).

[@zxc1273]

@Lena M did you manage to solve this somehow?

[@rivkihever2929]

What type and size of resistance bands are recommended for this?

[@HoopersBeta]

That will vary from individual to individual. Best to treat bands like weights. Start with a lower resistance and work your way up. So you'll likely need a set of bands.

[@rivkihever2929]

@@HoopersBeta what length of band do you use in the video?

[@legitqs4098]

A video about therapy/exercises for SLAP lesions please. Is it that uncommon?

[@HoopersBeta]

Not uncommon, but will depend on severity. Some people may have mild/minimal symptoms, and some people may need surgery to correct their issues. If you have been diagnosed with a SLAP lesion, you should have a follow up with an orthopedic physician/surgery to discuss your options.

[@legitqs4098]

@@HoopersBeta thanks! I'm just very insecure how severe it is. My radiologist didn't see any problems, but my orthopedist did. But he suggested a surgery, even though the pain is manageable

[@HoopersBeta]

That's fair! There are many factors to consider when looking at surgery. Are your symptoms manageable, do you have someone to help with strengthening / stabilizing the shoulder, do you feel like the shoulder is stable, is it limiting your sport participation or function, etc. Imaging does not always represent how you may feel and function and that is just as important when determining surgical need or not. If you are considering surgery, I would recommend just getting a second opinion and asking why they think it's necessary.

[@je4nette]

When I keep my arms down, straight against my torso, only the lower part of the scapula wings out on my right side. On the left side, my scapula rests correctly against my back. What might this be?

[@HoopersBeta]

Could be multiple things, unfortunately. Could just be a tighter pec minor on the right, or a tiny curvature in the spine creating the difference at rest. Likely the former, though.

[@je4nette]

@@HoopersBeta thank you 🙏 I'll try stretching my pecs more.

[@nbka8rs]

algogogo

[@TheXeeman]

Im always curious, back in the cave men days, we don’t have any sort of equipment to train all these things. How did we get away with it? Is stuff like this (training/rehab/targeted exercise) inherently unnatural then?

[@MeltedMask]

In those days you move from birth to death. There were no long break from movement. Throw a spear, run a dear. Swim in puddle, row at river. Walk a mile to the mountain sky. In otherhand, todays life, everyone subtitute own muscles with casoline and over protecting gear. And maybe school systems kills ones enjoyment for movement . After years of unbalanced workload, it isn't miracle that one have problems. Especially back muscles are under used in modern society.

[@HoopersBeta]

I don’t think people were too concerned about the movement of their scapulas back in those days haha! The weak died out, the strong/smart/adaptable survived. -Emile

[@smau990]

Watched this few times, then stumbled on this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/l525c6SFj8pnfpI needless to say I have problems in the area and now I'm confused.

[@MiguelClimbs]

Thanks for the beta boys! PS. Hooper is hella weak.

[@HoopersBeta]

I tell him all the time ;) -Emile

[@Tandycakes159]

Yea "scapular winging" isnt a thing, unfollowed.