How to fix Singer 15-91 don’t lube the motor you’ll burn it out. Rewired and working fine (video 90)

Old Black Singer 15-91 with burnt out motor. Rewired and good as new.

[@thesuicidewalrus415]

I picked up my first singer the other day at a thrift store for 25 bucks, 1951 thank you for this very very important trick because I was getting mixed information and I felt like it didn't make sense and now I understand, thank you for the save.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

You’re welcome. Enjoy your awesome sewing machine.

[@ecay]

I got several of these at the house waiting to be fixed up. Haven't even looked at them yet. Their projects that I picked up. I know I have to rewire every one of them right now. I've got a 15.90 that I'm fixing up and I'm going to have to rewire

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Like money in the bank. Get them up to spec and make someone happy.

[@ecay]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 hadn't really decided what I was going to do with him. I don't even know what I could sell them for. I just found them really good deal on a bunch of them at one time and picked them up. I've got a couple of 66's as well. 503 e and I'm going to go look at a another singer tomorrow but I'm not sure what model it is. I know it's a zigzag machine but that's all I can tell you

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@ecay 👍😎

[@VinnyK-gx2jc]

Hi, Great Video, thank you. What lubricant can I use for the two grease cups you are talking about. My wife got her machine from her mother and it has not been used for a long time, in great shape. It has the small lubricant tube with some left but I would like to know what I can use going forward. Thank you

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

At the Singer service center, we always used Vaseline petroleum jelly. Not glamorous, but cheap and effective. If you look around online, there are numerous concoctions and potions that are basically the same thing. They cost more , but you’ll be really cool and in the know, if you use theirs. In other words, hype and marketing. The holy grail of marketing and free market capitalism. Don’t forget your coupon code. Caveat Emptor. (Or similar Latin caution)😎

[@cvcaballero]

Nice video, I just got a 15-91, I have the owner manual but I am not sure if I can get the original oil … what oil or grease should I get for the motor lubrication and for normal oiling … could you please recommend one … thanks

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Regular sewing machine oil is all you need. Get it online or at the fabric store, Joanne’s etc. It’s a highly refined mineral oil and it’s almost clear and very thin and viscous. Just a couple of drops go a long way. Be careful not to over oil the motor.

[@cvcaballero]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you very much for your answer …sorry I am confused, the same oil can be put in the motor … in the manual picture the look like different lubricants… in the picture it says singer motor lubricant..

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@cvcaballero singer lubricant used to work in the motors originally. As time takes its toll on the oiling felts at the motor bearings, the felts harden and actually block the flow of lubricant to the bearings. I take a size 18 needle and perforate the hardened felt material and create a pathway for the oil to reach the bearings. Then I put a couple drops of regular sewing machine oil in the holes that used to call for lubricant. The old school lubricant came in a tube. Nowadays, if you need a reliable lubricant for gears and etc, just use Vaseline petroleum jelly.

[@catdee9981]

Thank you for this video. I purchased mine from a previous owner and it has the knee lever. Once I started the machine the motor started smoking so I stopped immediately. Do you think this is what the previous owner did was oil the motor? If so, do I need to do as you said in your video take it off and clean it?

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Just disengage the hand wheel clutch like you were going to wind a bobbin. Don’t engage your bobbin winder mechanism. Press the knee pedal all the way and get the motor spinning as fast as you can. Let the smoke pour out of the motor as you’re running it wide open. DON’T STOP RUNNING IT UNTIL THE MOTOR IS AT ITS PEAK SPEED AND THE SMOKE IS DIMINISHED. Once the smoke has stopped, and it could take some time, everything will be reconditioned and ready to go. I’ve had them set off smoke alarms and they eventually stopped smoking and ran like new. Amazing motors. By the way, many of those had a convertible knee/foot controls installed in the cabinet. Push down on your foot control and see if it slides out of the bracket. Some folks prefer the foot control, some not. Good luck with it.

[@catdee9981]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you so much! I will try this in the morning. 🙂

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@catdee9981 👍🏼

[@deniseharrison669]

Hi Randy, I just purchased a Singer 15-91. It is in beautiful condition. I took it to our local expert and he flushed the motor and fixed a few minor things. He told me that it doesn't need to be oiled for a year or more. I was thinking that I would oil it as I do my Juki. I just want to make sure that I don't ruin it either way. Can you shed a little light on my noob brain? (Also, he had the needle oriented with the flat side to the left and I wanted to make sure this was correct. Thanks! :)

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Needle is properly installed with the flat to the left and it threads from right to left. You can oil anything that has movement but stay away from oiling the motor if it’s already done. Be sure to put a drop of oil in the shuttle assembly about every couple bobbins that you rewind.

[@deniseharrison669]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 @Randy Your Sewing Machine Man Thank you so much! I did notice that you said to thread from the inside of the machine out to the left which was very helpful. The shuttle assembly is the bobbin case? (sorry--I'm all in but still learning the terminology).

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@deniseharrison669 take the bobbin case out when you oil the shuttle. Never get oil on the bobbin case. The shuttle is what the bobbin case snaps onto. It moves back and forth in the race. Oil the race with a drop or two every couple bobbins.

[@deniseharrison669]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you again! Will do! :)

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@deniseharrison669 👍🏼

[@ronalddevine9587]

I have rewired several 201-2 machines. I thought those screws were to add grease to the wicks for the motor bearings. The worm is greased by removing the hand wheel. Am I wrong?

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

The two caps under the hand wheel are removed to grease the worm gear per the Singer manual. Your way is just as effective as I do it that way myself. The only thing I’m trying to prevent, is a noobie being confused and oiling the motor brushes by mistake. You and I have this all figured out but a whole lot of folks get confused by the ambiguous instructions in the manual.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

After the two words”worm gear”, add the word “shaft” and my intent will be more clear. Removing the two bottom caps will lube the the worm gear shaft bearings on the left and right sides. Since the motor armature and the drive gear share the same shaft, either depiction is technically correct. You are indeed correct and next time I’ll slow down and proofread my response more carefully. Thanks for the heads up. See video 91 for more clarity.

[@carol-uc6me]

I bought this machine at garage sale for $50, it’s frozen, it looks as if’s been sitting in a garage or basement for decades, made in 1941. I’ve been oiling with sewing machine oil, trying to get it moving before I do anything. Do you agree this is the first step? How long should I keep oiling? Should I apply heat.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

No heat. Put penetrating oil on all the contact points of the mechanisms. Pay special attention to the bearing on the top right, by the hand wheel. It’s the hole on top just to the right of the spool pin and just to the left of the hand wheel. It has a wick in there that hardens up with old oil. Take an old sewing needle and push it into the oil port, through the felt pad that will be stiff and resistant. When the needle gets to the metal of the shaft, that’s as far as it can go. Wiggle it around and make a passageway for the penetrating oil to get to the bearing on the shaft. Put in the oil and work the hand wheel around until it loosens up. Also, make sure that there isn’t any thread wrapped around the hand wheel next to the machine. There’s two main bearings on the bottom. One on the right, and one on the left. They’re on the main shaft underneath. Maybe get a flashlight to spot them. They will need some oil also. 😎

[@carol-uc6me]

Thank you. I have original manuals, I’ve been using flashlight and the hole with dried felt thing is exactly as you say. I will continue to oil these parts and let you know my progress. VERY much appreciated.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@carol-uc6me 👍🏼😎

[@MikeKrukowski]

Hi , Is 15-91 similar to 191J ? I just got one with manual , its 1956 . Can you tell me anything about it or point it to some information , google not showing much usefull info .

[@MikeKrukowski]

so far l had only demo from the previous owner, he use #16 needle and nylon Tex69 thread on light leather and some upholstery material, l want to use it for this type of application because l have two other machines for lighter/regular sewing.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

The Singer 191 models were made in several locations. 191-K. Kilbowie Scotland 191-J. St. Johns Canada 191-B Bonnieres France 191-M Monza Italy 191-U Utsunomiya Japan 191-R Queretaro Mexico They are similar as they are 15 class systems. They differ in that the 191 has an external motor (belt driven)on a bracket attached and the 15-91 has an enclosed “pot motor”. (Gear driven) Source: singersewinginfo.co.uk/191

[@MikeKrukowski]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 is the 201 Singer better for heavier materials then 191 ?

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@MikeKrukowski both are awesome gear driven machines. The real difference between them is the 201 is a high speed full rotary hook in 66 class and the 15-91 is a little slower oscillating hook in 15 class. My choice between the two is the 201 because it’s so smooth and precise. The 15-91 is more like an industrial in comparison because it’s a side load bobbin and the 201 is a drop in bobbin. The side load allows for heavier sewing as the needle isn’t deflected into the hook mechanism.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@MikeKrukowski for the heavier sewing I would choose the 15-91.

[@cynthiaherndon4480]

I have a 15-91. What type of lube for the gear box?

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

At the Singer service center we used Vaseline petroleum jelly. There are numerous variations of that you can purchase online that are similar and more expensive.

[@cynthiaherndon4480]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks for speedy reply! Thanks for this cautionary video. It is challenging to see from the original manual where exactly to put the grease.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@cynthiaherndon4480 you’re welcome

[@lawrencethompson465]

I have a model 15, serial AL 873520. Is this a 15-91 or 15-90 or other iteration? What are the model 15 versions? Where may I find this information? Thank you for your reply.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

There are expert Singer historians online that lay out all that info very nicely. I don’t know their sites or channels offhand, but I’ve seen them when searching for random info.

[@lawrencethompson465]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954My, I

[@lawrencethompson465]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks for your response.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@lawrencethompson465 😎👍🏼

[@joansturgeon5805]

yikes, I just did this to my 15-90. How to clean it as it smells now.

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Run the motor at a high speed after disengaging the hand wheel clutch and that should diminish the smell of burning oil. If it smokes at first, keep running it until it reaches peak speed and the oil smoke is gone. It could take a few minutes.

[@joansturgeon5805]

Thanks, I did it and it fixed the smell!

[@lauralowe9334]

Does the same go for a 15-90?

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

Yes. They’re basically the same setup.

[@lauralowe9334]

@Randy Your Sewing Machine Man so i don't need to try to put any kind of grease in the motor? There are 2 oil holes at top of the motor on each side, those get oil? The machine ran well when i first tried it after oiling it but niw it's running really slow. I put a new belt, not sure if that made a difference

[@randyyoursewingmachineman9954]

@@lauralowe9334 your belt is probably too tight. Most times they are. (Or it has a thick, stiff Chinese made belt) The belt should run as loosely as possible without slipping. Be sure to NOT GET one of the stiff belts that are made in China. They will burn your motor up. To recondition your motor and burn off all the excess oil that has absorbed into the brushes: Slip the belt off and run the motor at its highest attainable rpm (speed) for several minutes. Put the flexible belt that’s not stiff and made in China back on and adjust it to its loosest possible position.

[@lauralowe9334]

@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thats prob where i messed up then. It is definitely stiff. Do you have a suggestion where to get the best belt?

[@lauralowe9334]

@Randy Your Sewing Machine Man i took off the belt and she is spinning very fast now, that was it. Thank you, you kept me from ruining a perfectly good motor.