How to get your 4 cylinder gas tractor to start. (Ferguson TO-20)

By Wally McClure the 🚜 Wizard. Wally takes you step by step to check the vital aspects of why your older tractor won't start. Do like Wally did, and your tractor WILL start! Good luck and please subscribe.

[@ponchovilla7920]

Thank you. Hopefully I can get my 48 going again.

[@johnw6389]

On a gas Fergy.. always have to good disruption contection and it starts every time... but I would say.. don't use a gas one.. get a diesel one... and it work till it dies. The gas doesn't have as good torque and give you more problems.... mosty the head gasket is the problem... I have gas, TVO and Diesel...always go for the diesel.. makes life easy..

[@alanhart9992]

Nice troubleshooting Wally

[@christopherephgrave3368]

What a great tutorial just real info without the padding Thanks I'm off to get Fergie started

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

All the best! Thanks for the great review and hoped you had a start up

[@ArtesaniasOtero]

Exelente bien clarito 👍

[@quixkTV]

I’m going to use this to help me try and get my dads 1954 Ferguson. Wish me luck!

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Should be helpful. Let me know of your success.

[@jimmcdermott5230]

After my tractor died while plowing snow had the same exact thing. Ended up being the other end of that same wire but on the coil side. Corroded up. Some sandpaper took care of it. Thank you

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Very happy to know it helped you out. Plenty more snow on the way!

[@ronniereece8752]

having problem with my 52 ferguson rebuilt engine compression all even, starts but wont keep running, start then stops every time, check carb ,got enough gas,could i have a leak from the intake all new gaskets maybe not sealing or tight enough,wants to run but stops,crank it again fires right up then stops,

[@ronniereece8752]

its right here

[@ronniereece8752]

today i checked out to see if i had power going to the coil, when key was in the on position ,no i did not, but i did when i went to start position ,then went back to the on position ,and no power ,thats why it fired up then stopped every time i turned the key to start it, fired up then stopped had no power from the batterie to the coil in the on position

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

@@ronniereece8752 good, so sounds like it was an ignition switch problem. Creating your own tests is the best way to discover the problem.

[@rickygarrett-g6k]

do you know what the part number to your points minds take the same as yours but it hard to fine them

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Sorry, can't understand your message. Try again.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

No, don't know the number. I buy most parts on ebay through reliable aftermarket parts. Com

[@WallsBeeMan]

Wally, my 1 year old starter I bought online for my MF TO-30 works after I bump it with some wood. 𝑰𝒔 𝒕𝒉𝒆𝒓𝒆 𝒂𝒏𝒚𝒕𝒉𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑰 𝒄𝒂𝒏 𝒕𝒓𝒚 𝒅𝒐𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒕𝒐 𝒕𝒉𝒆 𝒔𝒕𝒂𝒓𝒕𝒆𝒓 𝒔𝒉𝒐𝒓𝒕 𝒐𝒇 𝒕𝒂𝒌𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒊𝒕 𝒂𝒍𝒍 𝒂𝒑𝒂𝒓𝒕. ?

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Sorry I just now saw your question. You have a sluggish/sticking solenoid. Shouldn't be doing that being that new but you can take it apart and lubricate with some light grease. While apart be sure to clean up the copper contact points. I'm betting it will come around.

[@drfeelgood022balls]

Your video tutorial was legit the $h1T. Loved it!!! Just traded for an old Ferguson T20 like yours and looking to get it started. I will try everything I can to get the old basterd going again. Any other old tips I should try? I already took the starter off to start a rebuild.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Don't go too deep. You may not need to rebuild the starter. Work with the basics. You have to have fuel flowing to the carb and make sure the fuel shut off valve is open. You can carefully clean your plugs. Look carefully at the condition of the plug wire connectors, they can also be cleaned up. Clean the contacts on the points. Don't disrupt the position too much but make sure that it will open about the distance or thickness of a toothpaste box. Battery must be fully charged. Replacing the positive and negative battery cables can make ALL the difference. And make sure the fuel is fresh. It sounds like this one has been sitting unused for a while. Fuel will be stale. They are very simple, basic machines. It will start, believe me. Also, you can help yourself out a lot by carefully loosening any nuts that hold any wires tightly. Clean those wire end connectors with fine sandpaper and then carefully re-tighten. And make sure the BOTTOM nut is tight before tightening the top nut. Let me know how you make out. Wally

[@ronniereece8752]

let me know please,thanks

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

All I saw was "let me know please". Text me your question again, I will try to give some ideas.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

I received a question whether or not the Ferguson is same as a Ford 8N. They are so similar that from 10 feet away they look like twins. But up close, they do have subtle differences. However, all the procedures I used, especially tightening that nut on the back side of the distributor, will all aid in getting your tractor to start. One other pointer I will give is that if your positive and/or negative wires to the battery are extremely corroded or have a lot of insulation broken, just bite the bullet and get NEW wires. That will also make a world of difference in starting. Also fresh gas.

[@gomerromer7708]

The differences are not all THAT subtle! The TO-20 and T)-30 had overhead valve Continental engines that were a lot better than the flat-head 4s that Ford used. The Fergusons had four-speed transmissions and the 8-N that we had was only a three speed.

[@Kyokunek]

Thank You!!

[@cowboyrob2887]

I’m going nuts with mine - same thing. Going through these steps and seeing if I have any luck (72 IH 354)

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Let me know how you make out. If unsuccessful tell me what it is or isn't doing and what you've done this far.

[@phillipjones470]

Hey Wally, I’ve had my tractor(600 series Ford tractor) out bush hogging off and on for the last couple of weeks no problems. Went out yesterday morning to start it and I have nothing. When I turn the switch on nothing. No click and does not try to turn over. Check the battery with my multi meter and it registered 12.4 or eight can’t remember exactly. Have any suggestions?

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Go to the battery! You've got a bad wire or bad connection at the battery, at the starter, or at the ground. Loosen all those connections, and clean with wire brush, sandpaper, steel wool, terminal cleaner. I think you ran the battery down with a bad connection. Sometimes the battery will run down so far that it won't recharge. If that's the case, hook up your truck or car via jumper cables to bring the charge back up and then attach your battery charger.

[@kevincharles3554]

Hey buddy got same tracker got it running, but it's spitting alittle the carb leaks when I have fuel on but when turn off..I have to turn fuel off when engine not running cause it's coming out of carb..when running it doesn't leak just when turned off ,,tracker bin sitting for few years ..

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

They are great tractors. ALWAYS turn your fuel off at the sediment bowl. On many of these gravity fed carbs, the float just isn't adequate to counter balance the weight of the fuel coming from the tank above. That's why tractors with the tank above the carb always have the fuel shutoff. It doesn't mean there's anything wrong, it just means you have to be more attentive! I actually took a black marker and wrote above my ignition switch TURN FUEL OFF so that I can remember. If you don't turn the fuel off, the carb will flood, making starting more difficult. If that happens, open the throttle all the way, don't pull the choke out, and just crank. It will start but will run rough for a half minute or so until the excess gas on the plugs finally burns off and all four cylinders finally fire as they're supposed to!

[@bigspoonmaye]

Tried all of these tricks still not starting sounds exactly like yours when initially not staring …. Waiting for a tester to test the wires by the battery and see if I need to order new ones ….. 😭 wish me luck lol

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

What brand and model tractor are you having trouble with?

[@guyvossen1640]

Here in Belgium , We must start the engine on gas and than switch on petrole when the engine was warm up. The petrole was half in prise. This ware the jears 50 and 60.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

OK, Guy, haven't heard of that approach but whatever works. Thanks for viewing!

[@jasonrabuck3743]

Brilliant! That wire going back to the secondary winding on the coil was indeed frayed and loose like you showed us. Cleaned up, put a new connector and fired right up. Thank you so much. This on a MF TO35.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Thanks for the positive feedback!

[@matthewhawes7469]

I live about 30 minutes away from you in Virginia and have one of these tractors where’s the best place you know of to buy parts? Brakes and such?

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

To be quite honest I buy almost all my parts on eBay. Yes, occasionally I have had to return a part but most of the time I get exactly what I need at a great price in just a few days. The brake shoes and even hardware kit, if you need it, should be easy to find.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Just checked brake shoes Ferguson to-20: lots of choices, price range $30-90. And that is for both sides.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

BUT I will also say this: tractor brake shoes rarely wear out. You should try adjusting first. The other reason for brake failure is a bad axle seal where trans/hydraulic fluid leaks out and makes the shoes too slippery. Those shoes can be cleaned with brake cleaner followed by heating with a propane torch, after replacing the seal of course.

[@simonworman7898]

It is kinda a British design via Ford but it was built in America,I thought it was mostly AF?

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Hmmm...not understanding "mostly AF".

[@gomerromer7708]

No, Harry Ferguson was a Scottish engineer who is the father of the 3-point hitch now nearly universal around the world. He worked for Henry Ford and it was Harry Ferguson who designed the 8-N and 9-N Fords that were a big break from earlier Fordsons, etc and were the pattern for all later Fords. But Ford and Ferguson had a dispute over royalties for the 3-point hitch and Ferguson left and set up his own company in Detroit to make the TO-20. They bought an existing factory called the Kercheval Plant, about 10,000 square feet, which is only 100 by 100, but they had a lot of the castings made out, gears hobbed by specialty shops, etc. The electrics were all Delco. So the tractor was designed and initially built here, but almost immediately they also started production in the UK. The TE-20 and TO-20 and then the slightly more powerful TE-30 and TO-30 were made at the same time. TE stood for Tractor England and TO for Tractor Overseas. The English ones had Lucas electrical components instead of Delco and the brake shoes, springs, etc were different. Ford and Ferguson got into a big lawsuit over royalties on the 3-point hitch and features on the 8-N and 9-N on which Ferguson had some patent rights. The decision eventually was for Ferguson and Henry Ford had to pay Harry Ferguson somewhere over $5 million which was the biggest patent settlement in the U.S. up to that time. The merger with Massey-Harris came toward the end of the 1950s. Both Ferguson and Massey Harris used Continental engines, not manufacturing their own the way Ford did. After the merger, the company headquarters was in Brantford, Ontario, but with a large office set in England. The next important relationship was with Frank Perkins from Peterborough, England who had been one of the pioneers of the modern direct-injection high-speed diesel. By 1960 or so there were diesel versions of all Massey Ferguson models and all were with Perkins diesels.. The early M-Fs were the 35-50-65-90. These were replaced by the 135-150-165-180. The 180 was not as powerful as the Super 90 and so that continued in production for a couple of years until the MF-1100 and MF-1130 came out around 1965 or 1966. Both of those used the Perkins 6-354 diesel, the 100 was naturally aspirated and the 1130 was turboed. The 1150 came along about 1971, with a V8-Perkins with the same bore and stroke as the 6-354, same valves, etc. The con rod bearings were different because you had two connecting rods on one throw of the crankshaft in a V-8. To this day, the 1150 remains one of the few tractors in commercial production that used a V-8, at least until the big 4-wheel drives from Steiger and Versatile that used Cummins V-8s

[@mf8913]

Massey 65 have spark but won't start. Put a little fuel in the carb then it would start. But now nothing. Guessing it's in the carb. Any tips?

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

Your tractor is starving for fuel Remove the fuel line and after making sure fuel valve is open, check for a good steady stream of fuel. If not, you have a blockage most likely in the tank.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

And if it is blocked, take your air compressor and shoot some moderate pressured air up through the tube to unblock what's in the tank causing the constriction.

[@WickidTinker]

@@johnwallacemcclure1143 just don't forget to take the filler cap off before doing this.

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

@@WickidTinker Good point!

[@wallsbeemandurham1736]

Wally, my MF TO-30 wont crank. it's done this before then a day later, it cranks. Could something be getting too hot then cool off enough to start ?

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

I think you have a loose connection at the battery or the ignition switch. Go to the battery first and clean the terminals, then reattach the cables and tighten. Follow those cables to their other ends and clean and tighten the as well. Test the cranking. If none go to the switch. Disconnect the 2 wires, wire nut together, and try to crank. That would prove the switch is bad. If still won't crank get jumper cables, attach the positive end to positive battery, touch other end on starter to see if it cranks. If it still won't crank then tackle the starter solenoid. The contacts inside eventually get so corroded they won't work. At that point but a new solenoid or take it apart, clean contacts with a file or sandpaper , reassemble, and should crank. So in review: battery, switch, solenoid.

[@WallsBeeMan]

for @@johnwallacemcclure1143 I started going thru your suggestions an voltage was everywhere it should be. I thought about hitting the starter and low in behold, it started. I didn't think it would have been the started as I bought a new one about a year ago. Walley, is there anything I can try doing to the starter short of taking it all apart. ?

[@WallsBeeMan]

@@johnwallacemcclure1143 You were so kind to give such a complete answer. thank you again.....tim

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

@@WallsBeeMan Hope you have success. But I must add that ally suggestions were based on a fully charged battery!

[@johnwallacemcclure1143]

@@WallsBeeMan You have found the trick, bad starter. Either wack it when it won't cooperate or remove it, disassemble after marking the end cap, and clean up the solenoid. Actually you can probably remove the solenoid off the starter. If not cool with that, get a replacement on eBay.

[@theestategalleryllctegauct3901]

Didn't mention checking the fuel filter or carburetor could also result in no start with robust cranking