How to Grade a Bra Sewing Pattern for a Wire Change and/or a Size Change by Porcelynne

[@kanamuthurajah9852]

Thank you for sharing sis. Love your effort. I am eager to learn to draw and cut. Will you be able guide us. Sky view very difficult to see and it looks complicating there. I saw a few channel with bra making but without drawing tutorial step by step. Please care to share for us on that

[@Porcelynne]

I do have some online courses for drafting and a book that the drafting course follows. The book is called Bare Essentials: Bras and the course is on courses.porcelynne.com

[@kanamuthurajah9852]

@@Porcelynne thank you so much

[@shortyylu]

How much space do you want the wire to have away from the seam allowance?

[@Porcelynne]

I usually design it for the sew line on the bra and with the given tolerance of the wires themselves, this usually works well. It's going to sit in the casing on the inner edge.

[@ahmedhassan-xv5ei]

i need this patron can send me link??

[@Porcelynne]

The pattern I used in this example is a pattern I discontinued, but there are plenty of patterns similar in style to this readily available in the bra making community. Check out Bra Makers Supply, Orange Lingerie, Emerald Erin, Bra Builders to name a few.

[@ahmedhassan-xv5ei]

@@Porcelynne not have link for free patron

[@lisakilmer2667]

I'm trying to watch your tutorials to learn how to make a bra. Your pencil drawings are almost invisible. Can you either move the camera closer or use a bright marker to show what you have done? I got lost when all of a sudden you switched from 1/4 " to 1/8" changes - it felt like you skipped a thought process. Do I need to buy the book in order to understand and use your patterns?

[@Porcelynne]

Grading is complicated and is not for everyone. This isn't about grading my patterns, it about changing any pattern. The book would help you understand more. If you view on your computer, you can view at full screen to see the lines better.

[@ritafairclough6470]

I agree, a dark thick marker for a demonstration with a zoomed camera would help.

[@monikahodkinson7333]

@@Porcelynne I am watching on full screen on the computer and yes the pencil is terribly hard to see. Also the white pattern pieces on on the white paper is also hard to see. I thank you immensely for what you are showing us but unless we can see it there is no point. Thank you

[@deniseschlumpf1424]

grading it up does not change the wire length?

[@Porcelynne]

No. grading up one size grades it about one wire size. You always need to confirm the wire line after the cup grade, but you can then do the wire grade back down. I did more detailed instructions in my grading course on courses.porcelynne.com