HOW TO: Gunk Wash Weathering Faster With Enamels!

[@MerrittFilban]

Few other Notes, make sure your model is smooth-ish. If you don't sand enough on your model prior to painting, if the surface is porous enough, the gunk wash will run in those grooves and can be hard to remove. Just double-check your surfaces (same applies to panel lining). Also, if you do use enamels, especially with any thinners or Zippo, any unpainted surfaces can soak up the paint and have the potential of becoming brittle and cracking (just be sure everything is primed and painted well :) ) Thanks for the vid, cool to see it applied without the middle gloss varnish stage. Keep up the great work!

[@noba4160]

Thank you for this - looking forward to trying it. The Mig In Combat book told me to use thinner on the qtip and it just ruined everything haha

[@gurufoxx]

Thanks, glad you found it helpful ^_^

[@noba4160]

@@gurufoxx I'm using Humbrol matte varnish as my primer for this to preserve the plastic colours of my gunpla. Do you think it'll be strong enough to withstand the rubbing of the qtip?

[@gurufoxx]

@@noba4160 Yep, should be fine, you don't need to rub particularly hard to remove oil or enamel washes. If you can't get enough off by gently rubbing with the Q-tip, you can dampen it in enamel or oil thinners (so that it is ever so slightly damp, not soaking wet) and that will help. You can always go back and ad more weathering effects later if you take too much off.

[@noba4160]

@@gurufoxx thank you! Super pumped to give this another go tomorrow.

[@gurufoxx]

@@noba4160 Have fun! Remember if you have used a matte varnish as opposed to a gloss varnish you may find the rougher surface retains more of the oil or enamel paint stain in open areas. More dirtiness ^_^

[@dunce.kap.2889]

Hmmm... do I apply my planned gunk wash today and wait 5-7 days for it to dry or do I order the appropriate streaking grime and have it dry within the day after waiting 5-7 days for it to arrive in the mail? Best go to my overthinking corner for this one.

[@gurufoxx]

OVERFLOW ERROR

[@TheMcLeish]

@@gurufoxx error error parse end.Fil.Reset

[@TheMcLeish]

Why no gunk wash but order new stuff whilst waiting

[@dunce.kap.2889]

A third option?!?! *Scanners style headsplosion*

[@ascensionindustries9631]

Hey Foxxy Momma, what up? I am about to put the outer armor on a Zaku and want to accent some of the edges, but I don't know what colors to use. I threw away my extra sprue pieces so I don't have anything to practice on. The armor is white and tan and I have a full grey scale in regular colors and metallics. Any suggestions???

[@gurufoxx]

Depends, will the accents be purely aesthetic or will they denote weathering and paint damage?

[@ascensionindustries9631]

@@gurufoxx Some slight scrapping. I'm basically building a "showroom model" an just want some of the edges to stand out from the plain plastic color.

[@gurufoxx]

Then if it is really just aesthetic, take a shade or two lighter than the base coat (although if the base colour is white, you are kinda knackered). For greys or blacks, add a tiny touch of white to the highlight colours, for reds, add a little touch of yellow (white just makes it go pink), blues and yellow add white, greens add white or yellow ^_^ For metallics, try and use a metal colour that is lighter than the base (or brighter).

[@jameslauramore4277]

I have seen a bear eat honey but never have I seen a bear paint!

[@lovecchio420]

Do you now have to worry about what topcoat you use?

[@gurufoxx]

Nope, once the enamels are fully cured you can apply an acrylic topcoat with no problems. I do all my weathering with oils and enamels, and both of those will not react with acrylics at all as long as they are fully cured. I typically leave an enamel gunk wash like this for 24-48 hours before topcoating, just to be safe. BUT keep in mind - topcoats are optional. If your model will never be handled and will just be a cabinet queen, a protective varnish layer is not always necessary.

[@lovecchio420]

I am just at the point where i will be doing this for the first time, so this video was timely. Thanks again for all the great videos.

[@tetsujin_144]

Any time I try anything on my kits with oils or enamels it turns the model into a sticky mess that never seems to resolve itself. Rather frustrating.

[@gurufoxx]

It's all in the technique. Oils are messy anyway (that's half the fun) ans enamels can be too. The trick with weathering with them is to use restraint. The streaking grime I have used here is thinner than a regular enamel paint, and is a little more transparent as a result, making it easy to remove and perfect for shading effects like these. if you are getting sticky sticky then you applying too much paint - never paint with enamels or oils, just keep them for weathering effects, where you use much less. I only use oils and enamels for streaking, filters, rust effects, some drybrishing (sooot, rust, exhaust streaks) and this kind of gunk washing effects.

[@tootyfruity70]

Ah I see the glorious principality of Zeon has gotten their hands on an armiger..

[@gurufoxx]

Oooh yeah, I'm doing a whole Zeon army ^_^

[@tootyfruity70]

@@gurufoxx wonder if you could maybe green stuff some Zeon style helms for the infantry if you decide to add an IG detachment.

[@gurufoxx]

@@tootyfruity70 There will be a Guard blob detachment, but sadly I have none of the relevant sculpty skills for such awesomeness :D

[@TheMcLeish]

Mics a bit fuzzy fox

[@gurufoxx]

You might just be used to the big-ass podcast mic I use on live streams, for pre-recorded stuff I use a proper, clearer lavalier mic that doesn't pick up all the echo in the room :)

[@TheMcLeish]

@@gurufoxx there's that, I blame the gremlins