How to Hem a Chiffon Wedding Gown - 2 Different Ways : Rolled Hem & Surged Hem

[@DiannaAtherton]

You said something that kind of hit a really good memory that I wanted to share. About 30 years ago when my son was about nine or ten he had a school function (play) where he had to wear a really nice suit. Well i did not have one for him. We were thrift shopping in a part of southern California and he said "Mom I really like this jacket". It was a really nice jet black beautiful jacket. Kind of heavy in weight. I looked for a size and cost. Price said $8.50 and the jacket looked like a young teen size so I looked at the label and it said Armani. I was so excited. I didnt care if it fit. I was dying to dismantle it to see how it was put together. I could not wait to get home. That was the first time i thought to myself i could make this. Looking at the sculptured shoulder padding, how the seams were constructed. From that moment on i was kind of driven to create, repair and learn the skills of a seamstress.

[@christasdressshoppe]

What an amazing find! And such a beautiful memory. Once you get hooked, your hooked. Lol sewing is such an amazing thing. What part of Southern California? I grew up in Anaheim. And lived as a young married in Riverside. Good memories. ❤️ Have a wonderful weekend Dianna! Thank you again for joining me on this journey. -Christa

[@mariemccarthy9828]

Hi I'm so glad I found your channel,I'm Irish,my story is exactly the same as yours,my mom had an old singer sewing machine,I self thought myself on it when I was 12, didn't go to sewing college,but did work in factories for years making clothes, picked up most of my knowledge from other older women with a lot of knowledge,I retired from dressmaking,but I'm still doing a lot of alterations for ppl,your videos are very easy to understand and at 64 it's great to still be learning 😊

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello Marie 😊 I’m so glad you found me! That’s amazing, thank you so much for sharing your story. I love it! There is always something new to learn. I’ve realized that I never stop learning. I’m so glad I get to pass on some of the things I learned along the way. Happy Sewing and I’m so grateful to have you on the journey! -Christa

[@deborahgiblin6914]

I’m infatuated with your video. I only discovered it yesterday and I can’t get enough of it. I too am a seamstress without any formal training. I usually only get jeans to hem but with your instructions I’m ready to tackle more. Thank you and keep making those videos!

[@christasdressshoppe]

That’s so awesome!!! Thank you for the encouragement. ❤️❤️ I know you can do it!!!! 🤗 More videos to come!

[@maguertae]

I love doing a narrow hem using the ban roll method. It has been fool proof for me.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Love it!!! Thank you so much for watching! Have an amazing day! - Christa

[@noemir8262]

All your tips are spot on. Stuff that I have learned through trial and error. I would've like to see how you adjusted tension on the chiffon layer. I have a Bernina similar to yours. I also never use the 4th thread spool on fine fabric.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you!! I’ll have to show that on the next chiffon gown I do. I’ve never been super exact with my tension. I tend to just bump it up or down as needed for fabric or thread type. It helps if you have a scrap of the exact fabric to run a practice stitch on before putting the garment in. 😃 Thank you so much for watching and for a great question to talk about on video.

[@CharleneDohms]

I also love formal sewing and am enjoying your videos. It’s interesting to watch and say ‘that’s what I do’ or ‘oh, I never thought of that, I’m going to try that’. This week I used a mannequin to do the extra marking after the floor pinning on the bride and I dropped the feed dogs and sewed on the lace using the free motion foot - I’ll never go back to my previous way. Brilliant! Thanks! One tip that was a life changer for me cutting the excess chiffon off after the first sew is to use appliqué scissors - less chance of accidentally snipping a small hole. Also, I usually use a silk chiffon pressing cloth on top of delicate fabrics - it’s sheer allowing you to see what you’re pressing and is just another layer of protection.

[@christasdressshoppe]

🤗😊 I’m so glad you found me! Your comment makes me so happy. Thank you so much! Thank you also for adding the tips!! I love these! It’s awesome that we can all help each other out. Have an amazing weekend! -Christa

[@angiep1360]

I have taken more trains off this season than any others combined. What gives?! Love your channel

[@christasdressshoppe]

Lol I had a year like that a few years ago. This year I took off a few but not as many as a few years back. I feel like alterations come in phases or groups. One year I will be overwhelmed with adding sleeves to gowns. Another year it seems everyone wants them removed. Another year I have a crazy number of people who lost a large amount of weight and another they seem to all gain weight. Etc. one summer I had 3 brides who had weight loss surgery after buying their gowns. Lol 😂 Thanks so much for watching! ♥️

[@TriciaQuilts]

I am so excited to have just found you! BTW, you have the distinction of earning my first comment ever on any YT video. I think we might be soul-twins or something (except I’m about 14 years older 😂). I, too, am redefining myself. I’ve been sewing since childhood, and since my husband passed four years ago, I’ve been making custom quilts and offering longarm quilting services to help replace that lost income. Then a year ago, a friend asked me to hem some of her daughter’s dresses. Simple enough. She told someone who brought me jeans, and that person told someone who brought me curtains, etc, etc, and then I was asked if I could alter a wedding dress. YIKES! Since then, I’ve done one other bridal gown, several bridesmaids, flower girls, and mothers dresses. But I’m still learning, and I LOVE that you’re doing these! My mouth fell open when you said that chiffon kind of springs back up. I had no idea! I did learn (thankfully in time to catch it) that it makes a difference in the pinned length of the gown if the model is watching you rather than looking straight ahead. So much to learn! Thank you, THANK YOU for being here! ❤

[@christasdressshoppe]

Oh my goodness! Thank you so so much for your comment! ❤️❤️❤️ you made my day! I’m honored to get your first KZbin comment. I’m so happy to have you on this sewing journey. 😃 God bless! And happy sewing! Christa

[@mariegelormino6692]

Very nice work and easy to follow your suggestions 🌺

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you so much for your encouragement! Happy Sewing! -Christa

[@donaldmcmurdo82]

This is so helpful! I've been sewing for over 30 years but do not have much experience with chiffon, although I love it. Been sewing charmuse and the fabric is so difficult to keep a shape when pressed. This makes narrow hems difficult with how I was doing it. I also had a horrible back injury where I couldn't walk for 2 years. Thank you so much for this video!

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you so much for your lovely comment. ❤️ It made my day! Chiffon, charmuse and fabrics like that can be so difficult. I’m so glad my video helped. Wow! 2 years of not being able to walk. I cannot imagine how hard that was. It’s amazing how fast you can go from getting around just fine then suddenly be unable to walk or move. It’s scary. Puts everything into perspective. Thank you for watching and your encouraging comment. Happy sewing! -Christa

[@Bostoncrocus]

Please show us the presser foot to use. I always avoided these fabric hems but now I can reconsider thanks to you. I like how you put a mannequin on the table for working on formals. Please tell us how much the mannequin weighs and let us see it so we know what to buy. I cant imagine having to trim off the dress after the first stitching... but I like the second part thats folded and stitched again. I can use that. Thank you. Robin in NC USA

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello 👋 Thank you for watching and commenting! I am just about to post a video that shows the presser foot up close. It will be up today. The foot is just the basic presser foot. Many seamstresses use a special foot that turns the rolled hem. The one I got years ago frustrated me, so I learned this two step process and have used it ever since. The mannequin is pretty light. It’s almost completely made from plastic. Unfortunately, that’s why the adjustment parts break pretty easily. But it works for hems pretty well. I just purchased it at my local JoAnn’s Fabric store. They sell online too. Thank you again and again! Happy sewing! -Christa

[@1950magdalena]

Thank you, that was very helpful.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Glad it was helpful! 😊 Have an amazing day! Happy sewing! -Christa

[@diaadiaconalta.5187]

Thanks. Your story is so inspiring.

[@christasdressshoppe]

🤗 thank you so much!

[@jmjcc5]

Useful tip on steaming dress.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Awesome! So glad it helped. Thanks so much for watching! ❤️

[@AnnieofBlueGables]

Beautiful rolled hem

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you so much!

[@creamberry]

Lovely Video. ❤ There are so many ways to make rolledhems it's hard to pick one☺️

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you so much! ♥️♥️♥️ Yes there are! It’s awesome!

[@marypham2234]

Beautiful work ! I love you views out side it gorgeous!

[@christasdressshoppe]

💗 thank you so much!

[@moiraging3927]

Thanks so much, love your content and technique for these types of hems. I pretty much do similar and it is so true to trust your pinning! The uneven hip and body stances is very much a thing. I've found similar with uneven shoulders too when shortening straps and bodices.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you so much! ❤️ Yes! So much different with uneven hips, shoulders, bigger hips, etc. I never measure chiffon hems. I just pray my pins are good. Lol Trust the pins!

[@hellybelle5]

I'm only a few minutes in, and I love it! Thanks so much for making this video! Also, you just pinned up the front, and it looks like a Greek goddess dress, and now I'm thinking as much as I loved my dress, I would've loved mine like this too ❤️😄❤️

[@christasdressshoppe]

That’s awesome! Thank you for your comment. And LOL, it kinda does! It could be a beautiful gown like that. 😄 Thanks so much for watching!

[@tatyanadifort]

When I mark chiffon, I use tailors chalk and make a line on the floor while the person is wearing the dress. I cut about 1/2" past the mark to do a rolled hem. I do love your dressform. I need to get better at using one!

[@christasdressshoppe]

That’s an amazing idea! Marking it with the chalk while the bride is in it. I’m not sure why I never thought of that. Thanks for the tip. That’s why I love hanging out with seamstresses. 😘 ❤️❤️❤️

[@velvetstitching3631]

Where did you buy your dressform?

[@Sonika377]

❤Thank you .. what tension you use so the stich is secure but not tide ?

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello 😊 I think it depends on which machine I’m working on, and the fabrics thinkness, stretch etc. I always start where the manufacturer of the sewing machine placed a red line, a suggested tension. Then I correct either tighter or looser as needed. I’m not an expert on tension so I adjust little bits as needed. I never really pay attention to the number. It’s also important to note, that many machines have a tension screw on the bobbin case as well. If you are not getting the correct tension by adjusting the top, try adjusting the bobbin. I hope this was helpful. Like I said, I’m not a professional with tension. But small adjustments have always worked. If not, I take my machine in to get it timed and cleaned. I try to do this once a year in my slow season.

[@sandrawalker216]

I just always use a rolled hem presser foot. I have 2 sizes. Cutting correctly is always key to getting a great finished product!

[@christasdressshoppe]

I’m so jealous that you can do that. It’s amazing. I tried many many years ago to use a rolled hem foot and could not. So I abandoned it and started doing it this way. Maybe it was a bad pressure foot? Maybe they make them better these days. I should try to use one again. Thank you so much for your comment. Happy sewing!

[@happytraveller8953]

Hello Ms. Walker--would love to know your secret for using a rolled presser foot. I have several from Bernina and cannot for the life of me figure out how to use them, and I was binge-watching the Bernina tutorials for hours yesterday and still cannot figure it out. Makes me feel as though I'm completely stupid if I can't watch and learn...can you help??? Happy New Year 2025!!

[@CharlenaEggleston]

Thank you. .I've been sewing for over 30 yrs. I always avoided these dresses & My brain kept telling me a technique like this would work but I was afraid to try it & once the bridesmaids ( my first ) dress was finished & gone, I didn't think about it & moved on to next project.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Yay! That’s awesome. I too struggled in the beginning to find a way to hem chiffon. I tried the pressure foot for rolled hem and fiddled with it for hours and hours. I could not get mine to work. But then a seamstress friend showed me this 2 step method and I never looked back. I hope you can now say yes to these dresses. Yay! 😀 Happy Sewing! -Christa

[@happytraveller8953]

Hey Ms. Christa--new to your channel and hoping to get some info on hems for slippery little fabrics such as satins and chiffons. The first method of the rolled hem has helpful; I assume (though I don't remember you specifically saying so, that when you make the first row of stitching with the final hemline shown, that you are sewing the wrong sides together? And do you stitch about 1/4 inch past the chalked hemline for the stitch line so when you turn it again, you have the exact chalk line on the floor? Sorry if this seems like an obvious question, but I haven't sewn garments in a very long time (reverted to quilting as it was 'easier' (ha ha). I don't have a serger so the second method is out for me and I just did a narrow zigzag on the chiffon layer and trimmed all the 'fluff'. I have rolled hem presser feet but can't for the life of me figure out how to use them and didn't want them sailing through the front window in December...). Thanks in advance, and Happy New Year 2025!

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello and Happy New Year! You are definitely on the right track. Yes to sewing wrong side together and yes to sewing about 1/4 past the chalk line so that when it’s rolled the chalk line lands the length of the hem. You said it right. There is never an obvious question or a silly question. We are all learning something new all the time and questions help lock it into our memory. As far as quilting, I find it harder. 😂 😅 Formalwear is easier to me. lol I have struggled with my rolled hem foot. Some seamstresses get them to work, but the one for my machine was always a struggle. So that’s why I love that first method especially on slippery fabric. I hope that helps. Happy New Year again! May your new year bring many new discoveries and creations. ♥️

[@francesmitchell4400]

When doing a grown what is your tension set at

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello 👋 I usually have mine set in the baseline area (the red line) and then depending on fabrics adjust up and down from there. I don’t know if I pay attention to the number. I just pay attention to the stitch and adjust when it seems off. Thank you so much for your question!

[@velvetstitching3631]

Where did you buy your dressform? Do you have different size dressforms?

[@christasdressshoppe]

The dress form is just from my local JoAnns fabric store. I used to have a plus sized one and this smaller one. I adjusted the measurements quite a bit in the plus sized one and it completely broke. The parts are all plastic unfortunately. 😞 This would be so great if they made them with metal parts. 😊 But I still use this one for all sized dresses. I only use it for hems and bustles. I don’t adjust the measurements for bust waist and hips. I clamp or pin the dresses on it. Then I adjust the hight only. This is a nice feature because I can check my hem while in the process. It gives me peace of mind. ♥️ Thanks so much for watching!!! Happy sewing! -Christa

[@munazajabeen148]

Hi. What's the number of needles do we use on chiffon clothes.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello 👋 I’ve been away from my studio all day. I will get you those numbers. But for now, I always start with a fresh needle with chiffon. Or at least I don’t get far before I realize that I need a new needle. The slightest snag on the needle causes it to snag. I save those needles in a pin cushion for when I’m sewing lace hems. Especially with beadwork. The other info I can tell you off the top of my head is I use Microtex (Sharp) Needles. It really doesn’t matter which size I use but I will get you those numbers. Mainly, it’s most important that they are Sharp and a fresh new one. I hope that helps. God bless! Happy Sewing! -Christa

[@christasdressshoppe]

The needle sizes for the Microtex (Sharp) needles I have on hand and use often are 70/10 and 80/12

[@Modylolly]

Hej Christa. Great video and best I have found. Question: I am making my dress with stretch satin and a bridal tulle. Would the rolled hem be the best option?

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello! Thank you so much for the kind words. On the stretch satin a rolled hem should work great. Some stretch fabrics are a little more difficult to master, so practice lower on the hem in a place you will cut off anyways. Or even better, on a scrap piece of the fabric. Most tulle fabrics just need to be cut. Raw edges are fine on tulle. Just be sure to make your cut smooth. I hope that helps! Happy sewing! -Christa

[@velvetstitching3631]

Have you seen the Ban Roll hemming?

[@christasdressshoppe]

I hadn’t heard that term before. But looked it up. I guess I have done it when there is horse hair involved, but not on regular rolled hems. I’ll have to look more into that. Thank you so much for the suggestion!! I always love learning new things. Happy Sewing! -Christa

[@zxwytr650]

Great video!

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you so much!

[@kristiyourweddingdresser6716]

Duckbilled scissors are so much easier for cutting close to the threads and you don’t have to worry as much that you’ll snip the under layer

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you sooooo much! I will check those out! I had been using my little bird scissors for years but they desperately need to be sharpened. In fact all my scissors need a good sharpening. It’s driving me crazy but I don’t have time to take them in. 🥲

[@hellybelle5]

@@kristiyourweddingdresser6716 I'm off to look for them ❤️

[@mariecaroniaplotkin5268]

I really have been enjoying your videos . I dint understand how you did this rolled hem though . The light is very bright and it obliterates the detail . And they’re little talking so I still don’t know how you did the rolled hem .

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello 🩷 This is one of my first videos. I need to redo this one. I am slowly learning more and more about videoing. Hopefully the next one will be much more clear. Thank you so so much!! I’m so glad you found the channel and are hanging out with me. Starting next week I will be making videos again. I will try to do some to help you with your flower girl dresses. 🩷🩷🩷 God Bless! And Happy Sewing 🧵 🪡 -Christa

[@curtainsup9]

get yourself a present: /e c cutter electric/battery op scissors...you will be so glad you did Get a set of bed risers and put under your folding table legs...it will be much easier on your back.

[@christasdressshoppe]

♥️♥️♥️ That sounds wonderful! I need to look into that. 🤗 Thank you for the suggestion.

[@amberadkins9951]

Are you sewing the dress inside out?

[@christasdressshoppe]

Yes. I usually work with it inside-out.

[@emilychadwick3857]

What size needle do you use for chiffon? Is 80/12 ok

[@christasdressshoppe]

I don’t switch needles when changing to chiffon. So, many times I’m using 80/12. The most important thing with chiffon is a sharp needle. I often have to put a new needle in because it snags. I put my “snaggy” needles in a pincushion and use them for other projects like sewing on a lace border. You can also use a little sandpaper, or a nail file to get the needle smooth again. But chiffon is picky so you just might need a new needle anyways. Whatever size. 🥰

[@terryjanisch905]

Christa I’ll never repeat a serged hemline on a wedding gown that full. I’ll always do a two step. Most cases it’s looks better and behaves better. Serving on the bias of these gowns look aweful no matter how I try. I’m most cases it was done cause it was the easiest for manufacturers. The secret is in the after pressing. Need a pressing video of these hemline. Most don’t realize you need to press into the curve. Great videos as always. Thank you so much

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello Terry 🩷 Yes, I agree. I like the two step rolled hem sooo much better than surging. That’s a great idea about a pressing video. It is critical to a hem looking amazing, especially with the bias. I’m not sure what you mean by pressing into the curve. I probably do that when pressing but don’t realize. How I would love to sit down with a cup of tea with you and you could show me in person. Wouldn’t that be amazing. Get all these amazing seamstress together to exchange tricks in person. Have a wonderful weekend! -Christa

[@maryjacobs8553]

I have a question about measuring for the length. When the client has on the dress and you pin the length, do you add 1/2 an inch to be able to hem. My granddaughter-in-law wants me to hem a bridesmaid dress for her. I have it basted it to the exact length, so do I start sewing 1/2 inch below that? Hope that makes sense. Thanks.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Not quite a half an inch. I usually do go just a tad longer than the pins I measured to the floor. (I think it’s about 1/4 inch) The roll up helps it not drag on the floor or get tripped on. The finished hem should float above the floor slightly, but not touch. I hope that helps. Thanks so much for a great question!! It took me a while to perfect the exact length I wanted. I hope yours comes out amazing.

[@kristacalvino5660]

It was fun to find you as we share our name! I do so wish you had better calmer background music as I found it quite irritating

[@christasdressshoppe]

Hello Krista 😃 That’s awesome that we have the same name. This is an older video, I don’t do a lot of background music these days in my new videos. I am a work in progress. 😅 always trying to get better. So grateful that you let me know so that I can improve things. Thank you for watching! I am hoping to get going on some new videos here in a few weeks. I’m excited for this new season. Have a beautiful day! - Christa

[@lidabard2121]

Just discovered your channel. Love the content. The sewing video is hard for me to see. The lighting is very bright and it's not close enough to see what you are sewing. I don't care for the guitar and percussion it is distracting. Subscribing, thank you.

[@christasdressshoppe]

Thank you so much for subscribing. Yes, I’m slowly getting better at videoing. Better with each video. Thanks so much for the feedback. ❤️ -Christa

[@sunshinesuzi5324]

We could do without the dramatic music ! Lol

[@christasdressshoppe]

lol 😂 as a bridal seamstress you don’t need anymore drama in your life? lol JK Thanks for letting me know though. I do appreciate it. I want to make videos that are easy and peaceful to watch. Thanks so so much! -Christa