How to Hem Multi Layer Hems Evenly, Hem Hack, Quickly, and Accurately, Horsehair Braid Hem

How to Hem Multi Layer Hems Evenly, Hem Hack, Quickly, and Accurately, Horsehair Braid Hem
Do you feel confident hemming gowns when you have a tutorial to go by,
but you don't know the names of the hems to look them up?
Do you know how to hem formal wear,
but sometimes you are stumped on what to call the hems
when you are speaking with clients?
Then, check out this link to get your *FREE*
HEMS IDENTIFICATION GUIDE!
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#diybridaldolldecoration #learntosew #sewinglessons
This video will show you how to hem a multi layer hem neatly and quickly. I also have a quick tip, a story, and an answer to an email. Comment down below if you have questions.
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[@francesa.millered.d.6792]

Thank you for this video! I love the horsehair braid hack! I'll have to try it. As for the bra cup debacle... first, I rarely use the bra cups they sell at the fabric store. They are just awful. Instead, I ask the bride (or I go myself) to provide me with a bra that fits them has some nice underwire in it. That way I can use the cups that fit their "girls." Then, I tack those babies in right where they belong. I have also seen videos where they are tacked in rather loosely (using a chain stitch about 1/4" long) so by the time the dress is zipped the pad sort of settle into the right place against the bride's chest. This seems to work for those girls who are a bit curvy.

[@BridalSewing]

Yes, I agree to everything you said. Also, tacking loosely works very well so that the bride can wiggle, nudge, fluff, and shove... everything just where it needs to be! 🤣

[@evajankowski4055]

Thank you so much for sharing all your talent, instructions and thoughts. I’ve been sewing for a long time and I’m so pleased to be learning all new things. Thank you again.

[@faithsewmore]

Thank you for this video! The cup placement explanation is what I have been trying to find info on recently. Thank you for that!

[@sharont5458]

I always place the pads against the skin, tacking it loosely so it finds its proper place. As someone else mentioned, I almost always use larger D/DD pads - mostly for the better coverage. Great video! You’re wonderful for sharing your craft!

[@iheartbridalcouture5989]

I tack them in right next to the skin. And I use a swing tack so they can adjust if they need to. 😊 I also buy double Ds and use them for everybody. They cover a larger area and its not as evident you are using them on gowns that are made with finer fabrics.

[@sarabruce7386]

Thank you for this hem hack!!! This makes hemming with horsehair braid so much easier. I place my bust pads against the skin for the same reason you mentioned. It's also easier to place them correctly when altering the dress.

[@tonyamillard4639]

Thank you again for the helpful techniques!

[@timtimleisan2312]

Aww this is so great !!👍😍❤️ So neatly hemmed. Definitely will do the same technique as yours this is easy yet awesome finished. Loving it. Thank you 🤗

[@deborahnelson4608]

Great tips as always....

[@melanieshelton7566]

This is an ingenuous technique for these multi-layer hems. Thank you for sharing!

[@BridalSewing]

Thank you for watching

[@karenramnath9993]

I normally put the pads between the layers, to give a more finished appearance, and to soften the line of the boning. But good, thick pads like you probably use are not available here, and I imagine a very thick pad would distort the boning. You are right, Sue Iverson in the comments, a circle of batting would prevent the boning from prominently declaring itself, but Batting isn’t available here either. The tip on suspending the pads on the single layer garment is genius!

[@charlesannoh8414]

Am speechless here.all that i will say is God bless you

[@ruthcline5465]

As always, super helpful sewing methods! Your sewing has improved my sewing! Thanks BST😘

[@BridalSewing]

Yay!!!!

[@yurixyooj]

I also keep the pad against the skin. Thank you for sharing your techniques.

[@mariacabral8271]

You are wonderful! ❤❤

[@moniquitagm]

I graduated a fashion designer but ended up in another busines, so now i´m looking to go over everything sewing wise speacially bridal because i´ll be getting married next year and i want to make my own dress, so i´m loving all your videos, i´m sooooo gonna use this tecnique with the crinoline tull under the linning and the horsehair hem which i think its just genious, also about the bra cups discution, when i used to make dresses i used to use 3 layer, 1 the outer fabric, 2 the structure which usually was a really stiff raw cotton where i put the bonning and the bra cups, and 3 finally against the skin i will use a really soft silk or satin, so the idea was to have the cups support the bust but not to show speacilly when bra cups just come in three colors: white, black and flesh...

[@BridalSewing]

I wish they were all that way- with a "slip" closest to the skin.

[@dianneedwards4978]

Another great video! Thank you

[@josephtomasello5938]

Hi Katie here… on my honey’s tablet again! As usual, you nailed it again. I use The same method for horsehair braid … saves time & looks great! If you are nervous about it, give it a shot on some scraps. And so true on bust pads. I do mine the same way. It’s especially noticeable when your bride/ client is a bigger gal &/or very busty… several G Cups last season. I love this channel… always Informative & fun too! It would be difficult to determine if you are a better dress designer/ seamstress/ business woman /teacher. I’ve been doing this a really long time, and I know winner when I see one.😊

[@BridalSewing]

Thank you so much for watching. It's great to have you.

[@ickonbeauty9549]

New subbie here..so glad I found you

[@houseofclayja]

I agree with you on the cup working better against the skin rather than between the outer layer and the boning layer. My other reason for favouring the cup that way is that alot of times you can see the impression or outline of the cup printing through the dress and I don't like seeing that.

[@emilybuckshaw6443]

any tips for using the 4-5" horsehair that is used in hems in 2023??? thank you

[@kraftsandkats2194]

Just recently found your channel wish I had a few weeks ago when I was altering a gown for myself for a ball, oh well live and learn. This video is great because my cousin just asked me to hem my baby cousin multi layer prom dress. fingers crossed I can.

[@sairascreations333]

I'm your subscriber and you are the best . Thank you for putting effort to made these beautiful videos. As a seamstress I do really appreciate you.

[@shelleyellis4329]

Me too!

[@BridalSewing]

Thanks, guys!

[@sueiverson258]

Sometimes the bones show too much over the bust, though I like the cups next to the skin. When I can't put the cups over the bones I will cut a circle of batting and place it between the layers so the bones don't show as much. Works like a charm. But you haven't lived unless you have had to harvest the horsehair to re use it. Sometimes it is necessary but what a pain!

[@BridalSewing]

I actually have a video on that! It really does help to add batting, or sometimes tulle or horsehair in there. I pulled the video because I wanted to add a little to it. It will show up here someday. Lol

[@sueiverson258]

Where do you work? I would love to work for you. Lol actually am opening my own shop soon...

[@BridalSewing]

Congrats on opening your own shop! I'm def not hiring, tho. Lol For more location info, etc email me. :)

[@terrimartin3034]

Thank you for producing the BST channel. I wonder if using OTT lighting might be a beneficial addition to your videography? do you cover the bust cups with custom poly satin ?

[@BridalSewing]

I actually have been using that lately! Thst footage hasnt been edited & released yet, but, yes a tremendous improvement for the detail in the video. I actually don't personally care for the ott lights. They kinda make my eyes feel wonky, but they do introduce more definition. I prefer real daylight & my studio is absolutely bathed with it, but the camera exposes darker than it appears so that it doesn't blow out the highlights. Stay tuned! :) -I don't custom cover them. My brides dont really care.

[@iheartbridalcouture5989]

On hhair braid I take it all apart first. Then I pin it to death at the pinned hemline. If it hangs right I usually hand tailor it into place. If it doesn't I put it on a manny. And redo it. I'm OCD about bridal hems lol. I'm the exact same way about pick ups. The bride has to pick up or call me from the same number she gave me to ok someone else to pick up. I've had friends of the bride come in asking to see the dress when they know she wants to have that reveal moment. So its a no show for anyone.

[@BridalSewing]

Oh, wow, Rita!! You go all-in on the horsehair braid. Great day! Yes, I'm always super careful about pick ups. I knew an event venue manager once that had the mother of the bride call to move the wedding date. The venue manager called the bride to confirm, and sure enough, the rotten mom was trying to sabotage the wedding. I should tell that story in a video sometime, too!

[@iheartbridalcouture5989]

@@BridalSewing Wow. I have so many stories too. Bridesmaid-zillas Mom-zillas etc. Brides in tears who wonder if they should get married. You have to be a counselor too. I always tell them, its not a problem if you want to call it off. Never offended if someone comes gets their dress and has someone else do it either. I'm pretty secure in my gifting. What I don't like is when they bring it back and it needs saved from someone else's mistakes. Lol

[@jennahowell4610]

You have the best hacks! Do you get all of your horsehair on rolls? I have looked to see if the larger 2”-4” comes on rolls vs just folded over the way I have been getting them. It looks like Wawak has the 1” on a roll. But the also don’t have the smaller sizes and it doesn’t look like the larger sizes come on the roll like you have here. I need more so I was hoping to find them all on the roll Thank you as always !!!

[@BridalSewing]

I think the wider ones are usually folded in this kind of flat roll

[@rileymcmillan6206]

I am attempting to shorten my granddaugter's wedding gown and ADD horsehair braid to it. the underlayer is two layers of lightweight satin that has no stiffening and a boxed hem with train. I have ripped out the 1" horsehair multiple times and can't quite get it right. I ripped out the boxed hem in the train and pinned it to be sure it stayed in place and also because if I left it closed, I would have had the seam allowance fabric enclosed in the stitched horsehair and was afraid it would not look good (too bulky). I appreciated your showing how to taper the shortened front of the gown into the train, and that wasn't too difficult to do. However, when you transitioned from the shortened front of the gown to the train where there was already horsehair braid, I can't seem to get that looking good. Have you done a video on placing the stiffened horsehair braid in an altered length wedding gown? Hoping you can help! This is the first wedding dress I've tried to hem and it's overwhelmed! Thanks for any help you can give me!

[@BridalSewing]

I can't remember if I do- I can say this-- I do it differently almost every time. The amount of taper, the stiffness & width of the braid, etc all play factors. Just do what looks good and works. Try not to overthink it.

[@archerpren]

You’re a genius. I have been wasting SO much time.

[@BridalSewing]

Lol Glad to help!! :)

[@Curandera99]

Awesome! Another great video! I sew the cups as you do but had no idea why. It just felt right. Good to have reasons to support why I do what I do! LOL I have a question. Do you make wedding dresses? It seems to me to be an incredibly expensive undertaking. I just don't see any possible way to get the discounts on the yards of different fabrics to make it feasible. I have found some beautiful fabric for the exterior at good prices but there just is so much more that's needed for the miles of fabric, lining, tulle, crinoline that goes underneath it. I'm playing around with the idea of just buying a plain one with solid construction and then build onto it from there. Thanks again for these amazing videos!

[@BridalSewing]

Thanks! Glad I could help! No, I don't make gowns. Same reasons. I only alter them.

[@gregpeyton7449]

Hello fellow seamsters! I do make gowns from scratch and have been for more than 20 years. First off let me start by saying that no, you can not make a gown cheaper than you can buy off the rack! OTR gowns are usually produced somewhere that the pay rate is around $1 an hour. There is not a professional seamster that I know who will work for that. And if there is one, I don’t want them sewing for me. What clients usually fail to realize is that not only are you working when you are actually sewing the gown but, also when you are meeting with them to decide style, design, taking their measurements, selecting fabrics, purchasing fabrics, drafting the pattern, etc. Not to mention the fact the the alterations fees are included in there too. Which, as we all know, can run into the hundreds of dollars range. So when I have a potential client complain about the cost, instead of going into all of that, I simply ask them what they do for a living and then what do they make an hour? I then politely remind them that I am a highly skilled person with a specialized knowledge base and that I don’t work for less than a certain amount per hour. And that the are getting a completely custom garment. That usually squashes any question of price. If not, they do not have to be one of my clients. Back in the day, I used to take jobs for fractions of what they were worth just to get clients. Those days are long gone. Not everyone who reaches out to me is meant to be my client. But I digress, to answer the question about fabric costs. You CAN NOT buy fabrics retail and be able to make a profit making gowns!! PERIOD! You have to seek out the fabric through wholesale sources. Yes you must buy by the bolt. But, for basics like linings, crinoline, underlinings, notions etc. you will need to stock these things and will use them eventually. Source when there is going to be a regional wholesale fabric market in your area, they happen about four times a year usually, go and set up accounts with the fabric manufacturers and distributors. Be aware that you must have a legitimate business to attend these markets. Prime example, invisible zippers, I just priced them at a major fabric retailer, the one we all love to hate. A 22” zipper was $4.99. I buy the same exact zipper in quantity for less than $1. Bust pads at the same store &9.99 a pair. My cost $2.00. If you are going to make custom gowns you must go into it full throttle if you expect to make a profit. If you do one or two here and there you will not profit. You make think you are but divide the profit you think you made by the number of hours you invested in it. Then decide if want to make, or can live on, $1.50 an hour. I apologize if I sound a bit “preachy” but, these are the basics that I wish someone had told me way back when I started. Good luck!

[@Curandera99]

@@gregpeyton7449 Thanks! Good stuff. I feel like making a dress from scratch just to work out the kinks and then when anyone asks, my answer will be "Yes! I do make wedding dresses! But you should know, costs start at $10,000." That should take care of that in my neighbhood. Honestly, I think making one from scratch should end this particular day dream in the bud. I think I better try. My daughter is getting close to marriage age/relationship and she has a lot of friends who will follow behind her. I don't want to be tempted.

[@BridalSewing]

I think we all agree here. Lol

[@shelleyellis4329]

Agree with all the above but still love making and designing wedding gowns and evening wear, together with all the 'everyday wear'. Super busy but it is very rewarding, though I'll never be rich just very fulfilled!

[@nonanormie5427]

Show us next how to have clean finish sewing

[@AnikaRae10]

What kind of seam allowance do you allow for the roll? Also is there a reason you don’t iron before you stitch that roll down to keep it tight?

[@BridalSewing]

Like I mentioned in the video, we usually try to match the roll to whatever else is on the hem. Sometimes we switch to a larger roll if they want to retain hem allowance in case a slightly taller bride wants to wear it some day. I'm showing commercial alteration techniques which definitely err on the side of speed pretty often. So, if pressing between steps doesn't make a huge difference, we are likely to skip it. This allows our prices to be more affordable for the bride.

[@cathyscookbook3635]

Is the hem doubled over burying the raw edge or just folded once with the raw edge out stabilized by the horsehair tape?

[@BridalSewing]

Doubled over so no raw exposed

[@creativecheersoffashionlau7364]

I certainly place the pads to the skin. It gives such a better look! Onlh thing: I can never find push up pads. Just normal pads anx I think they are not doing the job if the bride is not wearing a bra. Where can I buy pushup pads? (I already looked at your site but also couldnt find it )

[@BridalSewing]

amzn.to/2T4e8Ib. Here ya go! & thank you for pointing that out! I added it to my site. :)

[@mrsmole8876]

I use Wawak bust pads, push up and tear drop etc. Every couple months they have a sale buy two-get one free. Mine are sewn next to the skin for maximum lift as none of my brides want to wear bras.

[@daochloedao]

Great video, buy wholesale bra pad at www. Coastpad.com. Seriously amazing price if you used a lot of it like me for my clients. The amazing selection of bra cups range. Hopes this helps y’all.

[@3whitehens]

@@daochloedao OOOOH thank you for this wonderful vendor! You know, you do a search on the googles for "cup inserts" (or anything) and so many wonderful vendors don't show up, just two dozen Amazon and Etsy listings...thanks for sharing another great source.

[@BridalSewing]

So true! I wish google thought more of businesses purchasing rather than individuals only wanting 1 item.

[@sandracrowe4082]

A clarification about the pad placement, please: if the gown originally has the bust pads sewn in between the layers, do you leave those and then add a second set as described? Or do you (re)move the original set and start over? I can't thank you enough for BST!

[@BridalSewing]

Leave 'em & stack 'em :)

[@jessicabucklew4422]

I was wondering how would I hem a dress that has a trail. Do I take it up only in the front and meet at the seems like you did in this video? Or would you cut off a few inches all around the bottom of the dress?

[@BridalSewing]

Just the front. Taper into the side seams. :)

[@BridalSewing]

Yes sometimes the taper occurs before, at, or slightly after the side seam, depending on how much is being hemmed off. But, I consider anything that is hemmed behind the side seams with the goal being *to change the shape or length of the train* to be a separate alteration. The discussion about how much and where to taper is individual to the gown and the bride and is definitely more than I can go into in the comments section here. So, for brevity's sake, I focused on the heart of Jessica's question. It is a common one: Is the hem project usually/mostly just the front or all the way around?

[@sandybalsters9283]

I agree with you. Maybe you could do a video showing how you hem a gown that needs to be shortened beyond the side. Maybe I've been doing it wrong. It can be hard to blend the hem into the train.

[@BridalSewing]

Oh, I doubt you have been doing it wrong. Brides wouldn't let you! Lol a bad taper can't be overlooked! :) I may can roll in some illustrations of the choices in a hemming video sometime. :)

[@valentinaufimzeff3527]

About the story.... if you’ve done a fitting on a dress and they want to cancel the order, do you charge for your time or just let it go? And I always sew pads next to the skin and always tilt them in a different way, depending on an issue I need to fix. Quite often I place up padding up instead down, that eliminates the little muffin top better

[@BridalSewing]

They pay as they go. So there's never a balance due.

[@valentinaufimzeff3527]

I need to start doing that. Hasn’t happen a lot but it did a few times and I was wondering about that

[@BridalSewing]

You are in charge.

[@ladybird8375]

I noticed that the hemline was more narrow towards the end. So the hemline is not the same around the dress.

[@susannea142]

The horsehair drives me crazy. I find that a ballpoint needle helps and I force myself to stitch it slowly. It doesn’t snag when I follow those two rules.

[@quynhantran7385]

Thank you so much for sharing your opinions. But one thing could you speak a bit slowly because my English not good enough for understand what you say,it’s will help me a lot. Thank you

[@BridalSewing]

Thank you for watching. Click the settings cog icon and go in and adjust the speed. You can slow this down to the speed that works for you. :)

[@doreenjackman6196]

U⁸