How to Install a D16Y7 Head on D16Z6 (1992-95 Honda Civic)

[@zachburkett2615]

Man! I am doing the exact opposite swap but this video gave more info than anything out there. I am super happy to find out that z6 and y7 belts are the same. Great vid thank you!!

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

I'm glad you found this video! Thanks for the complement. I couldn't really find anything either when I was having to do the Z6 to Y7 head swap out of necessity myself and had to just figure it out after observing part numbers, applications, and just trying one step at a time. Keep me posted on your project and I'll do what I can to help.

[@zachburkett2615]

Thank you, I really appreciate it!

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

@@zachburkett2615 No problem!

[@cocokidd53]

Question I have 1992 eg hatch and I'm try to swap a d16y7 into it do I use the the original ecu from the 1992 or the 1996 and the same for the engine harness

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

You can use the harness and ecu from the stock 1992. Ignore the crankshaft position sensor that comes on the D16Y7 it can be ignored. You'll have to deal with the distributor situation since the wiring will be different and your '92 used the distributor for crank position instead of the D16y7 that used a sensor on the front of the oil pump. There's several ways to deal with that. For example you can gut the obd2 distributor and put the insides from the '92 Obd1 distributor inside it or you can use a different obd1 distributor like I did with the one I used in this video. To keep things simple depending on what your '92's original engine is you could keep your stock intake manifold with everything on it so you don't have to convert or modify any wiring for your Idle air control valve or intake air temp sensor. If it's an automatic You will absolutely want to use the transmission and throttle body / throttle brackets from your '92 because '92-95 used a cable operated system instead of electronic like the transmission that came bolted to that D16Y7 in '96-2000. Make sure to match your fuel injectors. You'll want the flowrate that matches as close as possible to the d16y7 (180cc) but obd1 to fit your factory harness and ecu. We used D15B8 injectors to match our D16Y7 head in this video. The TLDR: Ultimately your build will hook up and be done the exact same way we did with this car. Ignoring things on the D16y7 block like the crank position sensor and knock sensor (if it has one some Y7's actually did). Most things will depend on which intake you will be using. Things are simpler if you use your '92 intake manifold. If automatic use the '92 transmission because it's cable operated. Let me know if you need any more help or have more questions :)

[@dylanpeyton2820]

What would u have so do to put a y8 head on? I’m curious about the distributer

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

Great question! The Y8 Head is the exact same process but with a few things changed. The distributor would be the same as with the Y7 head in this video since the goal is to have a ODB1 compatible distributor that will bolt onto a head that's normally ran with an OBD2 system. For the ECU you'd use a P28 ecu so you could use the Vtec on the Y8 head. The 235cc flowrate injectors I used in the video would be 5cc's leaner from the stock 240cc that are used for D16Y8. I've seen some Keihin 240cc flow injectors online part number Jc585 listed for OBD1 92-95 d16z6 that would work out of the box for your application with no mods to the fuel system. If you wanted to get creative you could go to the junkyard and get some OBD2 D16Y8 fuel injectors along with their harness plugs. You can use the OBD2 connectors with your OBD1 wiring to use the D16Y8 injectors. BE CAREFUL One thing to look out for is look into "Peak and Hold" VS "Saturated fuel injectors". If you go to mix and match OBD2 injectors on OBD1 Hondas make sure to know if you need to bypass your injector resistor on the drivers side next to the strut tower that way you don't fry your ecu because the newer ones are different ohms of resistance. As a side note I've seen people use D16Y8 Head bolts sets as well to install y8 Heads. The Z6 Head bolt set can be used like I did in the video as well but will require the addition of 2 washers like I mentioned. Just depends on what you can find on sale or have around :)

[@zachburkett2615]

Also did you have any issues with timing or everything was good?

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

Using the Y7 head with Z6 block timing was perfectly fine. Just line up the dots on the crank gear with the arrow on the oil pump and line up your camgear with the engine head surface (valve cover off). I use a flatter 10mm wrench rested on the surface of the head to quickly gauge the camshaft gear alignment along with the tick marks on the cam gear. What ecu are you going to be using? Scroll down and find @mostwantedej6157's comment one of my responses explains the process that I took to safely set tdc when you are working with something you are paranoid about working or unfamiliar with. In @dylanpeytons2820's comment reply I went into what could be considered when putting a Y8 head on as well as fuel system concerns if that would help as well. I've got manuals on all these things too so if you need any technical info or anything else just ask.

[@zachburkett2615]

Thank you for the response! I will be using a p28 with neptune/demon 2 set up. I have a tune for a z6 with intake, header ect. that I can upload. Your advice is very much appreciated!

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

@@zachburkett2615 Ah perfect! You'll have an advantage with the P28. If I remember correctly the ignition mapping is slightly different between the Y8 and Z6. This normally isn't an issue with a daily driver or normal street/hwy use. If you go to doing drags or track with it and you want the most power then you'll have the ability to really dial it in with the P28.

[@mostwantedej6157]

What about timing i heard it would b off slight i know this video is old try to get back to me

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

Not old at all man. It actually worked out to be the magic combo. Specifically for the D16Y7 & D16Z6 they work the same. Didn't have to do anything funky. Just line the Y7 Head Cam gear up like you normally would for a Y7 or Y8 (same cam gear). Line the D16Z6 crank gear like you normally would for a D16Z6. The timing marks on the Harmonic Balancer pulleys even have the same tick marks as well. We used the D16Z6 Harmonic Bal. pulley with it. Can't say much for the timing covers however. I didn't have any covers to use and Z6 lower covers are almost impossible to find at wreckers. For timing belt the Z6,Y7,&Y8 all take the same exact belt. If you have any more questions just let me know. I can always make another video in the guts of it.

[@mostwantedej6157]

I going z6 block with y8 head on a p28 chipped everyone said i need adjustable cam gear I ordered one but it didnt come with a woodruff key now im stuck will the stock cam gear work? If yes then how im lost i dont want to bend a valve

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

@@mostwantedej6157 You should be perfectly fine. The stock cam gears for the Y7 and Y8 are the exact same. You have a great advantage running a chipped P28 since ignition mappings are different Z6 to Y8. I have 2 strats If you get paranoid (I do this stuff when I do something I'm nervous about or uncertain) Option 1 Best way: Take engine head and put it on some jeans on top of a flat table or toolbox. Take a spare timing belt and turn it until its lined up with its tdc marks. I take a 10mm wrench and lay it flat on the surface of where the valve cover gasket sits across where the cam gear is. The wrench will line the flat surface with the marks on the gear. Set the crank of the engine to its TDC marks. Bolt head to block. Put your timing together and then when you have your belt on and tensioned slowly turn the engine by hand in the direction of rotation with the sparkplugs out. Should be fairly easy to turn. If you keep turning and feel no interference perfect. If you are turning it and something gives you major resistance (like stops you in your tracks) or clacks together inside the engine it wasn't hard enough to bend anything and then you know it wont work or your timings off. This combo with stock gear should work fine just be sure if there's an oil restrictor on top of the block to remove it since the d16y8 head has a restrictor built into it instead. Option 2 Lazy way: Turn the crank of the engine with the head off until all the pistons are half way in each cylinder so they are totally clear of where the valves are. Put your head on and then turn your head with a spare belt to it's tdc marks none of the valves will hit because the pistons are so far down. Then turn your crank slowly to its tdc mark. Put your timing together and then when you have your belt on and tensioned slowly turn the engine by hand in the direction of rotation with the sparkplugs out. Should be fairly easy to turn. If you keep turning and feel no interference perfect. If you are turning it and something clacks together it wasn't hard enough to bend anything and then you know it wont work or your timings off. This combo with stock gear should work fine just be sure if there's an oil restrictor on top of the block to remove it since the d16y8 head has a restrictor built into it instead.

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

@@mostwantedej6157 After looking into it I found that Z6 & Y8 TDC lines up perfectly for sure. You can set it up that way set a distributor in the middle, start it, advance the distributor where the throttle responds the best when you flick it by hand, and drive the hell out of it as a daily. For super dialing it in for best results or serious racing applications the whole reason for the adjustable cam gear is to clear up any difference in crank pulley markings. There's a pretty wide margin for timing degree with D16 engines. It just depends on application and what fuel you are using.

[@mostwantedej6157]

@@foxisretrofitting4556 i appreciate you responding im going to time it crank by hand if i dont hear or feel anything I’ll run it

[@axelmoiseslaham452]

The z6 head is better than Y7 because vtec

[@foxisretrofitting4556]

You are mostly correct. We only had a non vtec ecu and a non vtec head at home when I had to get my wife's car going that way she could go to work. The factory Z6 head that came with the car the previous owner was an idiot who cranked down on it with an impact and cracked the hell out of the rocker assembly and ruined alot of the head.