HOW TO INSTALL A METAL ROOF (PART 1)

This is part 1 of a 6 part video series explaining how I installed a metal roof on my house. In this video I cover measuring the roof, figuring the metal, the tools I use, and the different methods of cutting metal.
The metal I'm using is called "crinkle black"
I purchased all my materials at buckeyemetalroofing.com/
They are a local company. Google "metal roofing supplier" to find one in your area.
The buble-wrap underlayment I used is Rfoil 2500. It can be found here rfoil.com/insulation-product/...
The dektite roof boot can be found here www.ebay.com/i/152760533811?r...
The Fabral vented foam closure can be found here www.homedepot.com/p/Fabral-36...
FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY

[@jackscenic]

This is a fantastic Series..Very well done..Perfect for the newbie because this Man explains the finer little tips that a contractor accumulates over many years. Watch them all.

[@i12bgood2u]

Thank you for your time

[@michelleamidon2083]

I have watch many "how to install metal roofs" and this by far is the best I have seen for a "Part 1". You using part one to detail the tools you use, why you use them and how to use is FABULOUS! I plan to watch the rest of this series with high hopes the videos are as great as this first one. Well Done!!

[@MT_Homes]

Thank you Michelle! Appreciate your support!

[@armymobilityofficer9099]

So many videos on metal roof installation just tell part of the process. Some are jacked up. I recommend this series to everyone. Great job.

[@mightye342]

Your videos are fantastic......down home, yet instructional. Unlike some of the people that post to the web, your videos provide quality information that makes the job much easier. Great job.

[@MT_Homes]

Thank you for your support!

[@brucemunro7257]

Very good instruction. Thank you very much for taking the time to show us novices how to do this ourselves. You are appreciated...

[@MT_Homes]

I appreciate the appreciation! Thanks for watching!

[@masshultzy6449]

I bought an angle grinder and used a cutoff wheel to cut the metal...Fast and clean cut...Thanks for the series.

[@tegan71969]

Awesome video! I've installed a couple of metal roofs so far but I learned a lot just from this first video. Looking forward to the rest of the series!

[@MT_Homes]

Thank you! Check out the playlist. The whole series should be in there. Thanks for watching!

[@ericparent7794]

I scored a great deal on metal roofing to re-roof my house myself, but I lacked the knowledge and experience in metal roof installation. This series of videos explains every single step in detail, step-by-step, and is exactly what I need to confidently install my new roof. Truly an excellent series of videos, thank you for the excellent work!

[@MT_Homes]

Thank you Eric! I really appreciate the nice words. Good luck with your roof, and thanks for watching!

[@kenworthNH]

How did it go? I'm about in the same boat as you. Getting ready to start.

[@MT_Homes]

It went very well. Did you watch all 6 parts? kzbin.info/aero/PLcoTb0qwRA6kpakHRV6n4K5MXjIleiDyP

[@trivalentclan-mizar9591]

My contractor didn’t put a boot on the plumbing vent, just lots of tar, years later it leaks, going to be a lot of work to repair. Chimney is just a bad, but with a ridge on either side of the chimney creating a nice lake up hill from the chimney.

[@bobwalter6382]

Thank you VERY MUCH your video was very helpful. I watched it several times!

[@MT_Homes]

Appreciate the support Bob! Thanks for watching!

[@curtisbarnett2831]

Gary well-detailed I really like what you have to say and how you do it very clean thanks a lot retired union carpenter

[@MT_Homes]

Thanks Curtis!

[@enderwiggin9091]

Here here! USW up in Northern BC. Thanks Gary! And thank you for you for stating your brotherhood Curtis

[@TheMcThirstyBrothers]

Thanks for the video. You are a great teacher my friend!

[@MT_Homes]

Thank you McThirsty!

[@briankrouch430]

Your really great at explaining what you are doing. Keep up the excellent work.

[@MT_Homes]

Thanks Brian! I appreciate it!

[@kyleboland2625]

You are my sherpa on my metal roof project.

[@rosslushbough4962]

Great series! Thank you! You guys are real craftsmen! No offense to your wife!

[@tomasvillareal3059]

I really enjoyed the breakdown only thing I need help with is how do you know how much eave trim you need and what is eave trim also the end wall and sidewall . Thank you great video btw

[@jamesritchey3789]

Nike Cortez are the absolute best roofing shoe there is outside of cougar paws. I have walked 10/12 in torrential rainfall with them on.

[@MT_Homes]

I’ll look into them, thank you for the info!

[@tonysierravista2280]

Well done

[@rassy440]

This really is a very informative vid

[@MT_Homes]

Thanks for watching!

[@marcussullivan8967]

Great video and information! What brand of roofing you used? It looked like it had some texture and was curious where to find it. Thank you.

[@BriansFarmingVideos]

Great video buddy I’m ready to climb up my roof

[@MT_Homes]

Thanks! My wife said she knows how to do a metal roof now too. Guess if something happens to me she will be able to do it herself now, haha.

[@AndrewPantshirt]

*ruuf

[@jessejames1590]

i've noticed the same thing with those dewalt bit drivers.

[@gpabui5256]

True PRO ❤

[@powell1333]

They make the snips the same color as boat/aircraft navigation lights left cut is red, right cut is green . Port and starboard

[@joemamma4324]

wow...great vid..thank you

[@tomasmaldonado9032]

I like you project video

[@magicone9327]

Confusing about the right hand cutting to the left? Red cut to the left, counter clockwise. Green cut to the right, clockwise. There are right and left snips that are not like the ones you are using. They cut left and right but do not have the up lifted handle like yours which are called aviation snips? Great cutting on your part. Good vid! Have you ever used or seen rotary bipass shears? Not the straight bipass type. Black and Decker originally made them using their jig saw frame. It had two cutter wheels, one floater and one driven with serrated edge for traction. I found a Makita brand from a Japan only sales and still use it.

[@MT_Homes]

There is some confusion about what are right and what are left handed snips. I’ve always been told that the red snips are right handed because you hold them in your right hand and hold the metal that’s being pushed up by the snips (typically the scrap piece) with your left hand. And yes there are multiple jaw angles of right, left, and straight snips. I have not heard of the cutter you mentioned. I mostly use hand snips and have on occasion used a power snips which are okay as well. Thanks for watching!

[@lazarohernandez6186]

Hi, thank you for you information I appreciate 👍

[@MT_Homes]

You're welcome! Thank you for watching!

[@MrFreshchico]

Thumbs up!

[@vintageservices1]

I’ve been thinking of installing a metal roof over my current asphalt shingles. I’ve done a lot of research on the topic including watching your videos. Every roofing supplier I have talked to have told me that the rib pro type of roofing, like you installed on your video, is meant only for non heated structures like poll barns and garages. I would be skeptical if one or two suppliers said that but everyone of them told me not to use the ribbed metal roofing on my house. I’m not criticizing you or saying that your wrong. I’m just wondering what your thoughts are concerning what they said and if your having any issues with your roof. Thanks for the videos. I watched them all and they were very informative.

[@MT_Homes]

Well,, I have never heard of a supplier saying the pro-rib is not suitable for house roofs. Did they give a reason why? The only reason I’ve heard of for not using it on a house is from folks who don’t like the way it looks compared to shingles. They say it looks like a barn. Are they trying to sell you standing seam? That’s a better looking option and has hidden fasteners but is 2-3 times the price of pro-rib. I’ve been installing or helping install metal roofs ever since I could climb a ladder, (At least 100 roofs) and I don’t recall having any issues. Also don’t recall anybody regretting going from shingles to metal. Check out this brochure from Midwest Manufacturing www.midwestmanufacturing.com/MidwestWebsite/web/cms/docs/SteelRoofingBrochureTrifold.pdf Hope this answers your question.

[@MT_Homes]

I plan on building a house for myself in the near future. I will absolutely use metal. If finances allow I will use “standing seam” metal which is way more expensive but has hidden fasteners and looks better in my opinion. I would never consider using shingles for my own home.

[@acla276]

Great videos! Do you think its possible to use this method over architectural shingles. Or would the roofing surface be to rough for this to work?

[@MT_Homes]

If you are talking about asphalt “dimensional” shingles then yes, it can be done. I’d be careful to not over-tighten the screws.

[@acla276]

@@MT_Homes Thank You

[@trinifirst6702]

I would welcome some advice. I want to install a metal roof on my house in Florida. I have a gable roof. It has a slope - not sure of the exact pitch. Any one knows the minimum pitch?

[@MT_Homes]

Are you wanting to know what the minimum pitch you can install metal on? You can install it on a flat roof if you screw on the rib like I did and have room for water runoff on both ends. At least a 1/12 pitch is ideal though. Good luck!

[@stevetruman2111]

Any vid on flashing around chimney for metal roof

[@MT_Homes]

Not yet. Hopefully someday. See if your supplier has a chimney flashing kit. Makes the job much easier.

[@randyswihart2268]

What is the name of the underlayment you are using and where can it be bought? great videos

[@MT_Homes]

Thank you! My local metal supplier carries the underlayment. It’s called rFOIL. Here is the link to the website. Maybe you can find a local supplier. Lowe’S and Menards carries something similar. Thanks for watching! rfoil.com/insulation-product/2500-metal-post-frame-building-insulation/

[@idontwantcorporateretaliat6301]

my bubble wrap and metal panels got awfully slippery (i think dust from the last week or so) do you just hose everything to get grip back?

[@MT_Homes]

You’re right. Dust is your worst enemy on bubble wrap and metal. I usually try to keep it clean as possible and install it as quickly as possible to avoid dust. I would recommend a leaf blower and blow it off because water also makes either surface slippery.

[@idontwantcorporateretaliat6301]

@@MT_Homes I literally can't stand on it as I did when I first installed the bubble wrap. Makes your "stepping" on metal panels to "walk them" in place nearly impossible. Any recommendations to get some grip?

[@gloriahernandez7107]

hello..so the metal company cutted the length of the metal to your needs,the wide always is going to be 3feet correct?

[@MT_Homes]

That is correct.

[@stevenmyers6076]

How long do the screws typically last? How much does replacement for screws usually cost. Very interested in steel just concerned about fasteners going bad.

[@MT_Homes]

That all depends on your metal supplier. My supplier does not warranty the screw washers but I would check them every 20 years. The metal has a 45 year paint warranty and I would almost bet the screws will last as long. I would say in 40-45 years you might have to replace the screws an repaint the roof. On a roof this size you’re looking at around $150 to replace all the screws. Also, that’s why I screw on the rib. If the washers go bad its up away from the water running down the roof.

[@BrettTracyRealtor]

Use 303 aerospace protectant for screws, rubber grommet preferably, then spray every cpl of years and will last quite along time

[@Btu555]

Does the gavalume roof from Lowes or home Depot have similar quality with the ones you are using?

[@MT_Homes]

I’ve never used their metals so it’s hard to tell. I doubt it’s as good as a dedicated metal supplier’s metal but I wouldn’t be afraid to use it.

[@gatormomlol]

Do you need the foil insulator if you use 1x4 with styroform in between? Also i have no attic/vent what closer should i use at ridge if any? Thank you NICE JOB!

[@MT_Homes]

Thanks Bill! If you use 1x4 with styrofoam in between you don’t have to use the bubble wrap. But I would still recommend using some sort of vapor barrier. Synthetic felt would do the job. If you don’t want to vent your ridge, just use regular solid foam closures like I did for the endwall trim. They usually come in a pack of 4. Thanks for watching!

[@user-kj6qk9gy8b]

Hey great video series, I’m gonna get some of those sketcher shoes, any particular type?

[@MT_Homes]

Thank you! This is my favorite shoe > www.skechers.com/en-us/style/51268/vigor-2-0-the-beard/camo#/ Although I haven’t tried their other shoes I would say that any of their “sport” shoes would work as long as they have the “high traction outsole”. Thanks for watching!

[@boondock6055]

major the ruff

[@scotty362100]

Left hand, and right hand snips have nothing to do with the way it can turn, although that is an unintended benefit. They are labeled left, or right because a left hand snip means the WASTE is to the left of the cut. Right hand the WASTE is to the right of the cut. the waste side is the one that deforms (distorts), and curls, the good side remaining straight (not distorted).

[@jerrycannonjr.7492]

Sketchers cut the man his check!!!

[@martindekom4150]

Howdy. People seem quite concerned about heat expansion/contraction. But wouldn't covering the metal with a true white elastomeric compound answer a lot of that? I'm in FL, so white would blu t the heat effect, and elastomeric's insulating nature (MUCH thicker than paint) would mitigate even further. This is kind of like high school science, but I'm wondering why it isn't commonly done- what am I missing?

[@martindekom4150]

"blunt" the heat effect

[@MT_Homes]

I know metal expands and contracts with heat/cold. But it moves very little and has never caused any issues for me. I’ve installed 40’ sheets before with no issues. Also, the factory paint has a 45 year warranty. Not sure I would want to void that warranty by painting over to prevent something that is not causing any problems anyways.

[@boondock6055]

good vid thanks!

[@irietropicals4255]

I’ve seen some people put wood slats down after drying in. What’s the difference if you do or don’t?

[@MT_Homes]

There are several reasons for using wood slats (perlins). I’d say the number one reason is if the roof has pretty major dips in it you can lay perlins down and shim up the low areas to keep the roof even. We used to to that on old barns a lot. Second reason is if your roof sheathing is not solid enough to screw metal to you can lay down perlins and be sure to nail into each rafter to achieve a more solid roof structure. Third reason is you never want to screw your metal directly on top of your shingles as the stones in the shingles will scratch the back side of the metal as it expands/contracts with cold/heat. We used to lay perlins on all roofs until the metal company came out with the bubble wrap you see me using on this roof. The bubble wrap not only keeps the metal off the shingles, it also has an r-value of 10 along with a reflective facing to reflect summer heat and keep your attic cooler. Here’s an example of a roof that had some major dips and structure issues > kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4nQoZWplKqbj7M

[@irietropicals4255]

I’ve heard the wood slats hold moisture and can sweat creating the metal to rust. Have you ever experienced any leaking or anything like that in your experience? Reason I ask is because I just got a new roof from Hurricane Irma 5 months ago and a hail storm came through land damaged my shingles last week. My insurance says I need a a new roof and I’m thinking of doing metal over shingle. What would you recommend?

[@MT_Homes]

I have never heard of the wood holding moisture and rusting the metal from the backside. Although if you were to do the wood slats I would recommend installing a vapor barrier on top of the slats prior to installing metal to prevent condensation. Personally, I would go with a metal roof with the bubble wrap underlayment. The metal I purchase locally has a 45 year paint warranty and you won’t have to worry about losing it in a windstorm as long as it’s fastened properly. Check with your local metal retailers for recommended vapor barriers and fastening recommendation for your area.

[@1958indyfan]

Red is left, Green is right.

[@martincorona2279]

Where are your safety goggles buddy

[@andrebrowning5195]

I mean no disrespect to the builder or this work but please do your research before using this type of metal roof. While yes it is technically “metal” - in this case probably steel galvalume - this through-fastened type of roof WILL FAIL much faster than you think. I know because I’m replacing mine right now on my house that is 8 years old. This is NOT a standing seam metal roof which is far superior to this type of system. The fasteners will back out over time due to heat expansion and will leak - it’s inevitable. This type of corrugated panel (rib in this case) is only suitable for agricultural applications like a barn or shed - not a house you live in. You would be better off sticking with asphalt shingles.....or do what I did and pay up the money for a true standing seam metal roof where there are no exposed fasteners and the panels can flex with heat expansion. Just sharing my own knowledge on this since it cost me pretty dearly to fix this type of roof system.....

[@MT_Homes]

I’ve been around metal roofing pretty much all my life. And know people that have been doing it longer than me. 30+ years. And I am not aware of a single issue with fasteners backing out or them leaking at all. Either must’ve been a defective material or not installed properly. I agree that standing seam is superior to the ribbed panels but in my opinion the ribbed metal is still far superior to shingles. Hope your new roof holds up better.