How to Install a Transfer Switch for Whole-Home Backup Power | Anker SOLIX F3800

[@in-sovite3446]

One thing that confuses me is that it is only about 25 amps capable. So how is it gonna run an AC when most ACs have an in rush of 25+ amps just to turn on. On top of the other 6 circuits that may be on at the same time? How does this battery handle this?

[@MacSociety]

Great explanation of the wiring after it was completed. Help me see how things are wired. If I ever do this, will for sure higher a pro, but nice to know how it works. I have replaced a circuit breaker before in our main box but will admit if I have to do rewiring for many, I would be more nervous. haha

[@simon359]

Why not just run an interlock switch on your main panel, thereby being able to use all your breakers for choosing the ones you want on and those you want off? You can hook up a 50amp generator connection.

[@AgentOffice]

You can

[@Glocktard]

And interlocks are cheaper too.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

Some jurisdictions do not allow interlocks. Even if they used the 50 amp version, this unit outputs only 6000 watts, which isn't even a full 30 amp 120/240 volt capacity. (7200 watts)

[@84guerciotti]

Interlocks are illegal in many locations as they do not meet regulatory organization requirements.

[@blueline308]

Because they are trying to sale you THIS device. Duh.

[@ronbridegroom8428]

The problem with this product is the 60 volt limit on Solar input. That makes it almost unusable for whole house backup. You will probably have to put all your panels in parallel, with fuses and thus have losses due to high amperage going through the wires at relatively low voltages. That design aspect is YEARS behind the current state of the art even for systems like this one. An unbelievable design choice on what other wise could be a good product

[@AnkerSOLIX]

When used as a portable power station, the SOLIX F3800 utilizes a 60 volt limit on solar input, which is typically more than enough for what you would need for this application. However, when paired with the upcoming Home Panel for use as a whole-home backup solution, you are not limited by 60 volt and you can use whatever flexible or rigid solar panels you'd like. I hope that helps clarify things!

[@charlespaine987]

@@AnkerSOLIXCLEAR AS MUD . What is max solar in put capacity .How many KWH on single charge. How long is warrantee

[@googleuser4434]

​@charlespaine987 the home panel is still vapor ware. Sounds like you can pre order it but there is very little information anywhere on it.

[@stevenr53]

This was informative, but I'd like to see an installation with the SOLIX Home Panel. Also, it will be nice to see how the app works with the panel.

[@AnkerSOLIX]

This video is planned in the works, and we will create it once the Home Panel is available. Stay tuned and make sure you're subscribed! 😀

[@PaulSuholet-lf3lf]

Nice video...but I missed how you handled the fact that the Solix is a floating neutral source and the Reliance switch requires a bonded neutral?!

[@lakorai2]

Will Prowse had it right. Skip this and go with a Lifepo4 battery bank and an EG4 all in one inverter. Way cheaper per KWH

[@Samuel-cp5ib]

Great video. Never realized how basic a transfer install could be. I want to make sure to charge my f3800 with my solar what is the best way to do that? I would actually have my f3800 mounted to a custom tear drop trailer and when home it would be ready for outages and actively charge from and ideally power the house at night.

[@copiedoffme]

How do you keep this ready for an outage? Is there a way for this to stay charged without constant tending?

[@phillipcoplen8051]

8:56 tandem is not double pole. They are different

[@chinwubaamadi]

Can it be automatic? Peradventure the utility goes out I don't have to come down to flip the switch.

[@joenaylor34]

6:56 "keep your hands away from the top" he says as he puts his hands on the top

[@BillKleitz]

I'm about to hook up my Solix 3800 and I'm trying to decide between this transfer switch and the other Reliance Transfer switches that have built-in Breakers. it seems like this transfer switch won't protect the load when running off of the anchor solex power. Is there something I'm not seeing

[@brianbuchanan2414]

Great video

[@davidbailey3289]

Does the f3800 have any way to tell if your running all 120v loads when you have the 30 amp plugged in or is it strictly 240 regardless if you plug it into the 30 or 50 amp plug. I ask because this would be great in my tiny cabin which everything is 120v. Trying to find a way to address the ability to run this off grid and be able to charge it via dc or ac

[@terryp563]

Can you plug this into AC 30amp and then just leave it on the UPS side all the time?

[@neilljones33]

I was glad to see your video on the F3800 and the hookup to the transfer switch. Although I don't have my f3800 yet (ordered through Kickstart) I have the identical transfer switch already wired in to my panel. I have a gas generator to generate the power using the 30watt inlet connection on the transfer switch. All this is well and good for temporary electrical, but I had in mind something more extensive. My question has to do with the 50 amp connection. Is it possible to have BOTH the 50 amp and 30 amp output on the f3800 working at the same time? The 50 amp output would go to another transfer box (?) and then to the panel with the AC.

[@AnkerSOLIX]

Hello, thanks for your question! Yes, both the NEMA 14-50 port and L14-30 port can work simultaneously and each power a transfer switch. Keep in mind though that the total output of the ports combined remains at 6000W.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

The total output of the unit is 6000 watts, which is less than what a 30a 240 volt output is capable of. Why they even put a 50 amp receptacle on this is to hype up it's capabilities and hope the buyer believes this battery pack can power an entire electric kitchen range. To illustrate this, they have a 30 amp 240 volt receptacle, (7,200 watts) a 50 amp, 240 volt, (12,000 watts) and 6 x 20 amp 120 volt receptacles. (14,400 watts) Add those up and ask yourself if a 6000 watt output unit can power all of that?

[@nerkymusselman8843]

if i wanted to charge with a dual fuel generator, what 25-50ft ext cord and/or adapter would i need?

[@gibblespascack1418]

The AC will most likely have an initial draw that could be more than the 6000W available. The 30 amp breaker will max out at 7200 watts, so did you install a soft start on the AC unit. Since this is an emergency, I see that water is a need, but is the AC a need of the house, over the availability to cook food? Also, can you live within the 3000 W draw per leg with the AC running and the water pump starting up? As for the Anker Solix unit, love that it already comes with the L14-30 receptacle. Plug and play out of the box.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

Since no air-handler was mentioned I doubt this AC was a central unit, not that I believe this battery pack could ever power one for any length of time, if at all. A small split system maybe, but best I could read the AC breaker was a 2-pole 20. And I agree, the choice of which circuits would be powered seemed counter intuitive, but then again this video is an advert for the product, not an instruction or informational on how best to go about installing transfer switches. Furnace/boiler... Fridge/kitchen, Common living area, some lighting, well pump. No way will I believe whatever battery is inside this unit can power 6000 watts for any appreciable length of time, even if it's daylight and being trickle charged by the sun.

[@gibblespascack1418]

The strange part is that if he has a central AC he will need to power the furnace too. Without that along with a soft start on the compressor, the 30 amp central AC will not work. However, his test did not start the AC in this video. 365 watts does not include running the well pump or AC and at 365W output, he would have 7.5 hours of batter life, which is not a lot of power. So if the larger units kicked on, he would drain that battery pretty fast. I think that real question should be whether during an emergency, does he need central AC? @@darrendolphdragos9752

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

@@gibblespascack1418 Agreed, like I said, he's trying to sell this solar generator, and some of the questions in the comments indicate that people watching are being mislead. The unit also has 6 x 20 amp receptacles, as well as a 50 amp 120/240 volt receptacle ans a 30 amp 120/240 volt twist lock. One of the comments was would it be possible to power a 30 amp transfer switch AND a 50 amp transfer switch, and his response was "Yes you can use both outputs at the same time." As IF this unit could output 80 amps! It's 6000 watts, not even a full 30 amps at 240. This little unit wouldn't last 4 hours at full load and costs $3000.00.

[@ltjamesd]

Related question; can the newer Solix C1000X 1800W/2400W model be connected in this manner? Thanks.

[@michaelsutton1461]

Dang, Chuck...that doesn't look like a bus.

[@rwstarke]

Just the load wire is being isolated. The neutral is being shared with the other circuits that are connected to the grid? Does that cause any problems?

[@AnkerSOLIX]

All breakers and switches work by usually isolating one side of the power circuit (hot or neutral) to control the flow of energy, with hot being the most common, while leaving the other side of the circuit connected. That is the case here and it is absolutely fine for this application.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

There is no neutral at the grid, it's a combined earth/ neutral and at 0 potential due to it being common to ground.

[@ddstinger8480]

Did you install a 50A or 30A transfer switch?

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

The transfer switch allowed for a 30 amp, 120/240 volt input.

[@mjbates]

I thought the Lever-nuts weren't rated for 30 or 50amp circuits.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

Seems only 20 amp and possibly 15 amp circuits were intercepted.

[@UKCG_2]

Ultimate backup power solution??? Sorry Chuck/Anker, that’s just marketing hype. First, the transfer is NOT automatic, which means if you’re not home, then critical systems like your refrigerator or furnace receive no power. Second, there’s no mention of how long a consumer might expect the charge from the Solix to last. This might be a good choice for short outages, but if the power is out for a few days, then what? A gas/propane backup generator or a full solar battery backup system is, to me, a far better choice for the “ultimate” solution.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

If I'm spending 3K for emergency backup power, darn sure it's going to be a 7200 watt gas generator and some 5 gallon gas cans.

[@steveturcott7482]

@@darrendolphdragos9752 Gas generator is a great idea if you and the neighbors can tolerate the noise of the gas generator! NO THANKS

[@rwalters2347]

I've read that the unit will not charge via solar input while in 240v output. Is that accurate?

[@solarcharging9743]

This Anker Solix is by no means safe. The reason for this is that it uses low cost, (cheap) Chinese made, high frequency, transformerless inverter technology in its design. High frequency inverters are notoriously short lived, low surge products that can set your appliances on fire during a catastrophic failure of its H-Bridge circuit. With no transformer to isolate DC current from the AC output, this unit can cause the primary windings of an appliance's power supply transformer to overheat and start a fire. You should never use a high frequency solar generator for residential purposes. A much better and safer choice is to purchase a hybrid, low frequency, transformer based solar generator.

[@AnkerSOLIX]

We appreciate your (strongly worded) feedback. I will say that Anker takes a lot of pride in producing products that are well made and safe for everyone to use. We put products through a rigorous testing process to ensure safety and reliability, using technology and manufacturing processes that are proven to be dependable for many years of use. To back this up, Anker SOLIX provides a 5-year warranty on its power stations, along with best-in-class customer support. Rest assured, if there is ever a problem with your SOLIX product-especially in regards to safety-Anker will address these concerns. If there is a specific problem you're having with one of your Anker products, I will be happy to provide contact information for support. 🙂

[@solarcharging9743]

@AnkerSOLIX if you took pride in your solar generator products, you would use safer, higher performance, low frequency, transformer based inverter technology in your design instead of the low cost, short lived, high frequency inverter tech that you're using.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

@@AnkerSOLIX These are all industry sales pitches: "We take pride in..." "Well made..." "Safe..." "Rigorous testing process..." "Reliability..." "Technology..." (Used to be "Space-age technology.") "Proven..." "Dependable..." "Best-in-class..." Full stop, it's cold out and snowing, 5pm and dark, and I'm running a furnace, a pellet stove, intermittent refrigerator and some lights, a TV and the the necessary cable box and the occasional water pump... total average 3000 watts evenly distributed across both 120 volt legs of the output. How long throughout the night before the battery is dead? This system's cost is $3000.00, and it's only good for occasional short power outages?