How To Install A Whole House Surge Protector | TL Davis Electric & Design

[@terrydavis5882]

This was a special case to mount the SPD in the panel. Please do not mount the SPD in the panel. I have added some links to show you how to install a SPD flush mount and surface mount. I hope these video will help you to install the SPD safely. Make sure to always turn off the power if you are not an electrician. Surface mount SPD video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j2jIeZanp9SioMk Flush mount SPD video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZSaaaiwh699pZI

[@MikeJones__Who]

How else are you supposed to install the SPD if the load center is flush mounted and surrounded by drywall?

[@Merk985]

@terrydavis Does the placement not matter if your wires aren't long enough to relocate other breakers? Is this because its still the shortest path to ground being at the panel?

[@ericthered9655]

Two types of people remove panel covers. Electricians and idiots.

[@GetOffMyIce]

Why should you not mount the SPD in the panel?

[@ScriptureConsolidated]

@@GetOffMyIce probably due to code standards. it shouldn't matter electrical wise. but an inspector if you sold the house would most likely demand it be removed. so 25 bucks for a drywall patch kit or use some scraps and youre good.

[@ColdWarVet607]

I served on USS Dace SSN 607, a Fast Attack Submarine, I was a Nuc Plant Operator and Electrician. Rarely did we ever work on energized systems, the exceptions being when underway and impossible to secure power on that particular system. Red tagging systems out with multiple signatures and reviews before working on energized gear is a typical operation. When we did operate on energized circuits we removed anything metal, and there would be 1 or 2 shipmates standing by holding ropes that were tied to the person working on on the equipment. I'm not here to lecture you but electricity is an equal opportunity killer, in fact the more experience you have the more comfortable you are in the false belief that you won't be electrocuted. Considering how easy it is for you to secure power to the panel its a very bad choice not to. After 30 years brother the odds are against you, I'd like to see you here 30 years from now. Secure the power, take care brother.

[@lciummo1]

Sound advice. I changed all the wired smoke detectors in our house a few months ago and I thought they were wired on a 24VAC transformer for power so I left the power running. On the last one of 18, I got a shock and almost fell off the ladder - they are wired directly to 12VAC.

[@alainvelasco3303]

Totally agree, especially you are demonstrating it to some people who are not electricians.

[@reymundmacabenta1]

The electrical shock will not recognize if you're an electrician or not, if you can't turn off the main panel you should wear a safety glove. You can also attach the wires first to the breaker before you plug it in to the main panel

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

Several things. It’s always a good idea to turn off the main breaker but a lot of pros don’t. They also get bit sooner or later. I like to put a couple of layers of heat shrink on the screwsdriver shaft because I have a habit of sliding my index finger on it. Ouch! Do the wiggle/rotate thingy right as you finish tightening the terminal screws. Makes a huge difference in wire connection. When you have a panel open, snug up on all the screws. If it hadn’t been done before most will be loose!

[@TheProletariat.]

I got several screwdrivers with the metal wrapped in electrical tape. I'm in hvac... so no I'm not inside yur traditional electrical panels often outside of my own house and more times than not working in hvac control panels we have the power off anyway... but at some point there's only so much you can do with the power off. So ya gotta be safe! I like the idea you mentioned using shrink wrap!! Definitely gonna try that!

[@antilogism]

They make insulated screwdrivers for hot-work. Also, don't neglect the value of NFPA 70-110.14(D) Terminal Connection Torque.

[@wilziam]

As a Canadian Electrician I just kept thinking #2 robby so much safer then Flat blade lol. Good install!

[@calebbarry5601]

As soon as I saw him tying the neutral in I was like " how do they even live down there?"

[@sirnatanielson]

I personally hate doing panel work with a flat head blade! Lol. Robinson #2 all day.

[@JanutoloJon]

One of my biggest pet peeves: panel upside down.

[@pucketts57]

Thanks much Terry I dont have a surge protector for my home yet but lately weve had a lot of wind & rain as well as thunder storms Just happened across your video & watched & enjoyed the information you gave Ill put one in so you dont hear later of my house getting burnt to the ground I appreciate your good work & information

[@lawsonstanley3279]

Great video, just finished installing my own surge protector in my house. Easy to follow instructions. Saved myself around $850-900 dollars doing it myself.

[@royjohnson1173]

Why didn't you turn off the main breaker in the panel? It seems like that is more dangerous than worrying about arcing?

[@laurahall3094]

Even just to set a good example for us kids

[@mja3698]

You've been doing this for thirty years, never once read the torque spec for tightening the connector screws, and have never considered using a torque wrench on 'em. Inspectors love guys like you!

[@marshalldavis7364]

Inspectors are a joke

[@tc1839]

@@marshalldavis7364 Torque spec. what are you building ? You must be just being funny lol.

[@hermancm]

Just tighten down the screws good and tight.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Good video Terry but the one thing I did notice is that directions say to twist your red and black conductors together. I've installed these before myself.

[@erikbogart676]

im thankful for your knowledge and willingness to share it. however watching the ground wire strands fray and a few of them didnt go in the hole is making my ocd flare up to 100!!! but seriously thank you again

[@antilogism]

Ferrules are nice and the NFPA allows them on stranded.

[@TheDannytre]

I love everything on the video besides two things that startle me! One I will always use electrical insulated gloves and I will not wear any type of jewelry whatsoever even if I’m wearing gloves! Above that everything is fine, yes you can still have power into the panel and still do your business and as long as you are being cautious! Any home DIYer should take these matters into consideration to the fullest! Now if you’re a professional electrician I can see different methods of doing this but I also recommend that you take this to the fullest and be cautious because all it takes is one time to get shocked and it may just be one shock but sometimes that can be fatal!

[@terrydavis5882]

If you are not an electrician you should always shut the MCB off before installing the breaker. You should always wear leather gloves and safety glasses when working on electrical equipment. When doing these video's you try and get everything right. I also let them know if they feel uncomfortable they should hire it done by a licensed electrician.

[@TheShospitali]

I'd kill the power before opening the panel box up.

[@Samlol23_drrich]

Can I ask what you meant by do not cross the neutral wires? Great video. Thanks

[@joetarlos]

Thank you, you made the video very self explanatory for anyone that might not have been comfortable in doing it before confidante in doing it now...

[@Mr572u]

I like the way Terry Davis installed this. I would make a peek hole to view the status lights.

[@terrydavis5882]

I only installed it in the panel do to a special situation. Normally they are installed on the outside of the panel, either surface mount or recessed mount.

[@brookskinnison3584]

Eaton sells the breaker type.........

[@robertmoore254]

The only problem I have with this installation is the unit is mounted inside the panel. The homeowner has to remove the cover to check the status of the unit. The suppressor needs to be mounted on the outside of the panel so that the homeowner can check it without being exposed to live components.

[@rossmmac1]

You could mount the spd outside of the panel but you must not exceed the 1 meter wire limits. The shorter the wire used the better.

[@davemick8620]

I agree with installing outside the box to check the status of the lights at a glance.

[@jpenn727]

You could drill a couple of small holes to view the lights.

[@williamtamminga5889]

turn off main power before working in the box

[@rublar75]

​@@williamtamminga5889 there's a lot of wrong w/ this. To turn off the power completely you'd have to pull the meter and in our area you can't do that without a permit. When you turn the main breaker off there is still voltage present on the Line side of the main breaker. So with the main breaker off, it's still considered energized because there is voltage present and pulling a permit for this application isn't practical. Unfortunately most electricians are not trained in electrical safety even though they're electricians. I know, it sounds crazy but I see and hear it all the time.

[@capaudio10]

Might want to clear up some confusion for some beginners and let them know why the ground and neutral are mounted to the same buss bar, and how they are bonded only at the main panel. Also, when tightening down the crimps to copper, to go back and re tighten later as copper is soft and compresses leaving a slightly loose connection after being seated and setting for a day or so.

[@UncleBobIsYourUncle]

Yeah why the ground in the neutral bar??

[@JarlaminTech]

Yes, why on the same bar?

[@wirefeed3419]

Good Tip, I went back to my panel 3 months after new and re-torqued all the breaker conductor connections, found 1/4 turn on many and some took almost a full turn tighter. It is good prevention to nuisance tripping and costly breaker over heating damage.

[@MW3sparrowgunner]

I just want to clarify that it is not always the main panel, but is the first point of disconnect. If your outside service has a breaker that kills power to the pane where the majority of your breakers are housed,l then you need to keep the grounds and neutrals on the correct bars on that panel or mount in the disconnect(if possible) and bond grounds and neutrals

[@eddyparker10]

Thats not the purpose of this video

[@AmitSingh-zn1kz]

I appreciate your thorough explanation of the process of installation of this simple but important protection.

[@williamhoodtn]

Turn the main power off ALWAYS when working in the panel. Remember that the three input lines into the main breaker are STILL LIVE.

[@jordanrodrigues8265]

This is energized work. It's pretty tame by energized work standards but I've done just a little research, enough to get dangerous. This is typically a 240/120V system. (Use 250V when selecting insulated tools.) Meters and probes are CAT IV. 250V has no restricted approach boundary, just work in a way that "avoids" touching energized parts. Class 00 gloves would be sufficient, but even at that lowest possible rating they're expensive. Arc flash took some more research. Here's some testing mostly at ~7,200V and 480V. Those flames are no joke. Oh, and the *lower voltage is more dangerous*. It can strike a decent arc that takes a long time to clear, just keeps blasting flame at you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIuzZWqjoap_icU I eventually found a PG&E policy from 2009 that sets their protection level for pulling or installing 240/120V meters at 8 calories per square centimeter. 8 cal/cm^2 is not great but it's not horrible. Hearing protection and all skin covered with fire-resistant material - think face shield, goggles, firefighter's balaclava. www.pge.com/includes/docs/pdfs/mybusiness/customerservice/startstop/newconstruction/greenbook/servicerequirements/appB-FRletter.pdf The best arc flash protection is minimizing the hazard. I'm looking at the gap between those hot buses and thinking "Jacob's ladder, oh hell no." I'd not be comfortable doing that work with the main breaker in. So what if you have to work by flashlight? De-energize those bus bars! Also, the screwdriver with the uninsulated shaft is an arc hazard if it's dropped into the service feeder. So that's what I'd personally be comfortable with. Balaclava, ear plugs, face shield. Main breaker disconnected, prove the bus bars dead. Non-conductive floor, leather gloves as shock protection. Insulated tools, stay away from the service wires, cover them if possible. I would personally be comfortable with non-rated gear - cotton and wool. A dry chunk of 2x4 and duct-tape to cover the feeder; it's under 250V and tracking isn't a concern.

[@shafiullahmawlavizada778]

williamhoodtn you’re so smart

[@LordRumple]

Don't give advice home owner.

[@electricianron_New_Jersey]

Says the guy who might not have ever worked on an old Murray MB panel or some crappy old FPE. Turning off the main can open up a can of worms. Sometimes the MB cannot be reset so then what?

[@williamhoodtn]

@@electricianron_New_Jersey Nope, never have done that. I'm sure you are right. But since your videos are also seen by non-electricians (like me), safety should be at the top of the list when making a silly mistake can kill you.

[@Imwright720]

I always put the wires in the breaker in my hand first then mount it in the panel, done. Might be wrong but then I’m working away from the box.

[@Voodoolawnmower714]

Not wrong at all. I've been doing that for years.

[@robertbelle8923]

Nice job very clear and. Precise presentation .

[@poltdesigns]

Thank you for the video. Just ordered the protection using your link, hopefully it somehow helps you the way you help me. Have a wonderful day sir!

[@terrydavis5882]

Thanks for ordering the SPD. Please make sure to turn off the main breaker when doing this. Make sure to install it on its own breaker. Good luck

[@elmersmolnisky9814]

Good installation. I personally would wear gloves and use an insulated screwdriver.

[@XX-121]

you must not be an electrician.

[@Chogogo717]

I have a couple screwdrivers I just added heat shrink to the shaft. It was more to prevent shorting components more than me getting zapped when adjusting stuff on aircraft.

[@gh2110]

Great 👍 not too’ long, not too’ short, no big words, made it look so easy.. thank u.. took 10mins: made $400

[@13612]

Nice that you screwed someone.

[@andresmith8693]

@@13612 How is that screwing somebody ? Must be an electrican making that dumb comment

[@rachelacrider]

Thank you so much for the video! I just hope I don't shock myself dead, lol🤩🤩🤩

[@pucketts57]

BTW Love your panel box compared to what I had when since I ve moved in

[@LeifOfWilsonCreek]

How do you size the surge protector, meaning 15 A vs 50 A? Wouldn't it be better to install it outside of the breaker box, so you can see the indicator lights? But if you did, how would you work around the sheetrock?

[@terrydavis3863]

The surge protection will have information telling what size of breaker to use. And if you want to put it on the outside. You can use 1/2” flex and two flex connector and a deep 4 square box. Knock out the 1/2” ko in the box and one in the panel. Do not add wiring to lengthen the wire on the surge protection device. If you need a diagram you can email me at [e-mail]

[@LeifOfWilsonCreek]

@@terrydavis3863 Thanks! I understand. For sizing, I mean, how do you know whether to buy the CHSPT2SURGE (which takes a 20 amp breaker) or CHSPT2ULTRA (which takes a 50 amp breaker)? Looking at specs online I see a kA surge rating, but how does one determine how many kiloamps to protect against?

[@LeifOfWilsonCreek]

Sorry, 15 amp, not 20.

[@billbarrow6059]

If the surge protector does its job and breaks a surge, is it possible to reset that protector or do you need to replace it with a new one?

[@terrydavis5882]

Sorry the long delay. Eaton makes a flush mounting kit to install it in the sheet rock. On residential homes I would not install greater than 50 kva as it is a waste of money. 50 kva, 80 kva, 100 kva, do the exact same thing. Just look at as hits. 50 hits, 80 hits, 100 hits,

[@davidd8435]

After you install this device is it necessary to install other surge protection on things like the AC outside unit or other large appliances?

[@bluelightning0820]

Yes layering surge protection is always recommended!

[@terrydavis5882]

When adding a SPD to any panel. Please verify what type of breaker is needed in the instructions that come with the SPD. The one I had installed requires only a 2 pole 15 amp breaker and not a 50 amp breaker. We should always follow what the manufacture ask for when installing their SPD.

[@0013619511]

Can you put a in line fuse in the surge supressor Hot to protect surge over 15 amps ?

[@troytaylor1913]

Been thinking about getting one of these. This seems like an easy install but I want to watch someone else do it first. I say it looks easy but if you don't know what your doing, 220 volts on the mains can be hostile. The cities records show a transformer blew about 5 miles away knocking out the power on that side of town while creating a huge spike on our side of town. It took out both my 2000 joule surge protectors and both desktop PCs. I ended up spending about a hundred bucks on motherboards, 2 days of looking at specs and screwing them in, and I lost more money in downtime.

[@GalaxyMakesEdits]

So was it your"whole house" surge protector blew and didn't even protect your computers?

[@troytaylor1913]

@@GalaxyMakesEdits I had 1 20k joule surge protector, 2 motherboards that were plugged into the surge protector, 1 modem, and a drop cable amplifier that was taken out. A whole house surge protector probably would have helped me out.

[@troytaylor1913]

The lights flickered then I heard an explosion. Then I notice things not working on my PC like my USB ports. I looked at my surge protector and it was red instead of green.

[@2006klaus]

When he inserted ground wire into bus bar i noticed the stranded wires separated. Therefore not all of the strands went under the screw. I always twist stranded wires together before inserting into breaker or bus bar to prevent this from happening. time 5:35

[@jericasmith8985]

Question; can you piggyback the surge protector on a breaker that is being used for something else or does it have to have its own breaker?

[@laurahall3094]

Each big thing should get its own dedicated breaker, right?

[@edwardsmith4353]

Can I use a one slot 2pole breaker ?

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

Thanks COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...

[@allabouthim03]

Great video! Although I will be turning off the main power.

[@terrydavis5882]

Great. Make sure you do turn off the main breaker when installing. I made additional information before the video that tells everyone to turn off the main breaker (power) Thanks for thinking about being safe. Good luck on your project.

[@Merk985]

Does the placement not matter if your wires aren't long enough to relocate other breakers? Is this because its still the shortest path to ground being at the panel?

[@Robert-pi6vs]

Your a good bloke.

[@joe8421]

Why did the Green bonding wire go to the neutral bus and not the Bonding terminal?

[@dobleanchorecords]

Thks man you' ve been a great help ! Rgds 👍

[@peterjbarclay]

I have a question, why did you connect the ground from the protector to the neutral line and not to a ground?

[@terrydavis5882]

I have explained this to others that have had the same question. In the Main panel the ground and neutral bars are connected. There for they are not separated. In a sub panel they are separated and then they must be connected to the ground bar and not the neutral bar.

[@TheOriginalAndysGarage]

I said the same thing I have an old three wire system coming into my garage but I added the plain copper wires outside to two grounding steak 6 feet apart and I had to install just a grounding bar for the copper grounded line outside so my white was on the power line Ground Bar and my copper was on the ground Rods Bar that's what my electrician this done it for sixty years told me to do

[@mariusneumayer4419]

Great Great Video !!! What should I do if I don't have room for more breakers spaces? Any suggestions, or links? That will be greatly appreciated.

[@lakecityransom]

Your goal will be to attach to a double pole circuit breaker that you know will remain untripped. My suggestion is the dryer circuit. Do not illegally double-tap the existing circuit breaker. Google about this. You need to either pig tail or get a proper tandem double-pole circuit breaker replacement that is designed for double-tapping.

[@philipdipasquale932]

Mine is around 10 yrs old.. can I test it to verify it is still working?

[@BigJnWorldWide]

Would this offer surge protection for my home built in 1952? The circuits in the basement are grounded but the main level circuits are not grounded. All of the main level receptacles are 2 wire.

[@terrydavis5882]

Yes. You are protecting the panel and all device down stream from the panel. You are trying to stop the surge at the panel and not at the device.

[@gregsz1ful]

Funny seeing Mike Holmes. I installed Sycom device like they showed on TV years ago and later found they caused fires.

[@robertlee4172]

I looked the story up. They are no longer in business. But this is an Eaton product, why smear Mike Holmes? He doesn't make the products.

[@gregsz1ful]

@@robertlee4172 I did not smear anyone. Just pointing out fact.

[@robertlee4172]

@@gregsz1ful Did Holmes endorse the Sycom product, or merely used it on an install? Ya, I thought so.

[@gregsz1ful]

@@robertlee4172 His registered electrician installed it. If you watched all of Holmes shows, you have seen it installed several times. Not sure what your problem is.

[@gregsz1ful]

@@robertlee4172 Holmes endorsed installing a surge device many times. after my original Sycom device exploded during a storm, they sent me a replacement. After installing a new one ai learned about the recall.

[@yuchenchan1181]

Hi, if you install the protector behind the panel, how can you observe the green LED lights after you reinstall the panel cover. Thanks

[@TSNEC]

I installed mine on the outside

[@miketayse]

Thanks for showing! Is there a reason you put it to the left and not the right?

[@lesliechow6969]

I have a secondary electrical box next to my primary box due to addition. Can I use only one surge protector for both? Thanks in advance

[@briancnc]

Nice video, thanks for sharing. Does this unit have an alarm if it has been hit and needs to be replaced? Wondering how someone would ever know if it's buried behind the cover?

[@mktina3657]

It’s common to drill a small hole in line with the green lights. If the green lights are on it’s working properly. Once it’s taken too many hits depending on the electric service in that area. The lights go out. They can last 1 year or 10 years depending on the power supply surges.

[@samtx5518]

Best video on this subject! Thank you

[@jimdavidson5208]

That is a type 2 spd. You need a type 1 if you are installing in your panel. Type 2's go on an HVAC compressor unit for example.

[@daleoderkirk8174]

You should mention that all wiles, especially ground and neutral wires are installed without any sharp bends, i.e., sweeping curves is OK. I see that your panel has the neutral bar connected to the panel back, which is essentially bonding the ground bar to the neutral bar. This extremely import for the surge device to operate properly.

[@maximumimpactmediainc.akiv1695]

i have a main panel in the house to which a 60amp line from its breaker was run to an accessory building. there is a panel and subpanel installed in this accessory building. QUESTION: do i install 1, 2, or 3 SPD's? i.e. will just the 1 SPD cover both the house and the accessory building OR do i need to install a SPD in the house and another SPD in the panel in the accessory building? AND would the subpanel in the accessory building also need a SPD? Thank you. (you have EXCELLENT VIDEOS !!!!)

[@leolearn713]

Unless your sub-panel in the accessory building has circuits that exit the building (external lighting /pump/motor) Probably 2. Both building mains. However, if the sub panel feeds expensive equipment (welding machine/saws/motors/computers etc) which are costly to lose/repair - putting one on the sub panel (type 2) is not a bad idea..

[@tomm8775]

I have a CH panel with a knockout at the top for this surge protector. My open breakers are at the bottom near the main shutoff. The wiring will reach, but what’s the deal with the screw holes on the front of the surge protector? If I drill two holes in the panel cover and mount it that way then I won’t be able to get the panel cover off without disconnecting it in the future. Seems odd. I was thinking of just lining up with the knockout and mounting to the panel. Thoughts?

[@tweetyandchirpy]

You seem to connect the white neutral and green ground wires to the same bar? Is that correct as I can see another bar on the right side of the box where there are some green wires connected?

[@coltonschumann8306]

Yes that’s fine.

[@robertmoore254]

In a service entrance panel like this there are usually at least two, and I have seen as many as four, ground/neutral bars. The service entrance panel is the first breaker panel past the meter, whether it's mounted inside or outside.

[@stratslayer51]

@@robertmoore254 Yeah but it appears he's working in the sub-panel, not the main service panel (which normally is outside in new-builds anyway). In the main panel, they're combined so if you're putting an SPD there they go together on the one buss. In the sub-panel they're separated...like this panel. So why wouldn't the green wire not go to the ground buss (with the rest of the green grd. wires) rather than with the white wire on the neutral buss? It appears to me Mr. Davis has contradicted himself on several occasions/comments here.

[@donaldbland9056]

My main panel has the grounds and neutrals on same bar. I have no sub-panel. I was please to learn that this is ok. I've purchased a Square D whole home surge protector HEPD80. With this model I can install either to a breaker or direct bus installation. Since I do NOT have available breaker slots, I'm doing the direct bus install. The instructions show the ground and neutral going to different bars. I have additional unused isolated bars on the panel. Should I connect the ground to one of them and the neutral to the bar that shares the neutrals and grounds. Or should I just install neutral and ground on the same bar with the others ? Thanks

[@petecresswell932]

What about installing it outside, next to the breaker panel, so that the LEDs are visible without pulling the panel. over?

[@ProductsForMen]

So the neutral and the ground were connected on the same terminal board?

[@MichaelSmith-lb7wl]

Yeah, but that is where my generator switch is with the interlock kit. You said anywhere, so it can go on the other side, right?

[@virgilsmith5792]

I would like to see how to install a surge protector at the transfer switch of a 200 amp generac transfer switch

[@enkrypt3d]

You should drill some holes in the cover to show the LED lights so that you can see the health status!

[@MrIslandbowler]

my thoughts exactly!! Much easier to check without opening the panel.

[@terrydavis5882]

Don't drill any hole in the cover, as you void the UL warranty.

[@curtisbme]

@@terrydavis5882 They are talking about drilling a small hole in the metal panel cover, not the device as you hid the status indicators.

[@terrydavis5882]

Do not drill any holes in the cover. The install was for a special need to not show the lights as the person, has a child that likes to pull apart anything that has lights on it. I will be putting out a better video on how to install the SPD. This video will cover existing panels. New panels, surface mount panels.

[@JanutoloJon]

Should do the in wall flush Mount kit so you don’t have to take the panel cover off to monitor the surge protector

[@franciscotavarez4138]

This is 36 k is good for big house ,or 108 kv

[@michaelcorbett176]

Well done only need a quick explanation of how the knock out in the panel cover for the new breaker location is done.

[@sirnatanielson]

Count your spaces in regard to the existing breakers and go from there. Easy way is to also hold the cover back up the way it was before, make note of which spaces need knocked out, and you're all set. Basic math. As for the physical aspect of removing the cover knock outs, take a pair of pliers (or if you have strong fingers and depending on your type of panel) and bend them whichever way the bump on the knockout rises. If it rises up towards you, bend that way. It might take a few back and forth bends before it snaps and breaks off. Some brands (Square D Homeline) can break off in one bend with just my fingers. It's relatively easy overall. (And if you break out the wrong spaces, they make space blanks for panels that can be installed to cover your mistake)

[@wrh7321]

He can't because this is an illegal installation and he knows it (or should, after 30yrs). If it was the proper device for in panel installation, it would plug into the buss and the panel cover would have spaces for it.

[@darrell6179]

My sister just purchased a house that had one of those Eaton surge protectors installed on the outside of the box. Until then, I had never seen one. My concern is that the metal connecters on each side of the device are exposed and could be touched by her grandchildren. I'm wondering if those connecters on the left and right of the Eaton surge protector are "hot" and a potential hazard when the green lights are lit?

[@spuddy_bud]

I have a main panelboard which includes the meter and the main disconnect for 200 amps. This box has room for only 8 breakers but also has pass-thru lugs at the bottom of the box. These pass-thru lugs carry power (200 amps) to a subpanel. The main panelboard as well as the subpanel are Square D. Do I install the whole house surge protector in the main panelboard or the subpanel or both. Please advise.

[@johnbaptist7476]

Hello sir Does it matter where to install in fuses panel or it has to be in a specific area ?

[@PeterDMayr]

Excellent video!

[@bushgnome]

Wait, so you can just mount them inside the case? This whole time, I've been using those in wall cut in style boxes you can get for these, witch can be a pain in the ass depending on space. Or mounting a 4 square, unless using a CH panel. Normally I just use the breaker style if it's a BR

[@josevargas6845]

I just have 1 question did he just connect the ground to the neutral bar can you do that

[@woodywoods5373]

I bought a CHSPT2ULTRA my instructions said to connect the white wire to the neutral bus and the green wire to the ground bus. I saw you connected the neutral wire and the ground wire to the same bus. Is that because there was no ground bar?

[@MegaThepow]

How does it protect the whole home electricity? Let say you have a power surge, how does that device stop all the current from flowing to those remaining breakers? I’m really curious because I want install as well?

[@luisiglesias1483]

It doesn't prevent the flash from entirely happening or damage occurring but what is ment to do is use 50%of its self before it can take another hit but it will always take the hit before distributing current/ark flash to other circuits that have appliances connected on them tvs washer dryer etc.

[@WattWireNet]

I can't drill down on the exact physics behind it, but it will draw and "absorb" the high voltage and prevent the the other circuits from receiving high-voltage current. There are two things to know: 1) The high-voltage surge does not necessary have a high enough ampacity to trip the other conventional circuit breakers. 2) The other breakers only prevent over-amperage; NOT over-voltage. Typically, electronics are destroyed by surges from high voltage; NOT high-amperage. High amperage occurs usually from a short condition (which the surge protector ignores). Hope this helps.

[@richdoughty]

path of least resistance...

[@bobbromm2269]

So once the cover is installed, you won't be able to view the green lights. Do you ever drill viewing holes in the cover to see the lights? How would you know if this is operational after an event without removing the whole cover in your installation example?

[@wisdomwisdom817]

Wonderful job, thank you so much

[@romanczernik9356]

Very nice video Thanks

[@estusflask982]

Great video!

[@expertsniper1811]

Can that surge protector be used on a GE panel

[@ProductsForMen]

My question is, if my heatpump uses a 60amp breaker can I still install one of these considering it asks for 2 15amps pole or the 50amps pole for eaton chspt2ultra?

[@erikbogart676]

also, ive always wired my breakers then snapped them in, just done that because its easier to get the wires in and tightened down. is this wrong?

[@terrydavis5882]

This is nothing wrong with wiring the breaker first and then snapping the breaker into place. I wire them into the breaker to keep the wires nice and clean. But it is up to the installer to do what he feels is right for him.

[@sowhat6442]

Hi Terry. Great video and Thank you! One question: I have noticed it's SPD type 2. I just bought the Square D device similar to the Eaton. However, it's indicated that the Square D Surge protector is the SPD type 1. Can I install Square D similar to what you did with Eaton, and what is the difference between type 1 and type 2 Surge Protective Devices (SPD). Thank you.

[@terrydavis5882]

the type 2 has a higher aic rating than the type 1. Type 1 and type 2 are indoor rated. type 3 is outdoor rated and nema 4x is outdoor rated. you have bought a good Spd. make sure you put the right breaker in for it. Good luck on your project and make sure to turn off the power to the panel if you are not an electrician. Thanks for your comment.

[@xSoupCan]

It's probably too late for this, but those are probably the UL 1449 type ratings. Type 1 is intended as a permanent installation between utility and panel to arrest lightning. Type 2 is intended as just after your distribution panel and may or may not arrest lightning. Type 3 is the point of use protectors you usually find around as power strips. blog.nvent.com/the-applications-and-limitations-of-ul-1449-for-surge-protective-devices-spds/ www.nemasurge.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/SPD-Type-Application-Considerations-Rev-Date-01-31-2013.pdf

[@jimdavidson5208]

He needed a type 1 SPD at that location. Main panel installs = type 1 SPD.

[@sebialex2228]

How does it work? If there is a power surge does it trip the breaker? Or it depends how big is the surge! At my house I had power interruptions like 6 in 30 min, probably I had power surges, it fried the board on my fridge!

[@PeterDMayr]

Why these panels don't use easy x screws?

[@13612]

Average cost for typical install would be? That's what people that view this would like to know and does this last or is it a one/surge wonder or does it keep working for several surges?

[@terrydavis5882]

The average cost should be around $700 dollars and depending on the surge it encounters. A really bad surge 1 time from a lighting strike or on average surges you get from the utilty company. I have heard around 50 or more. You want one that has a high amp rating over 100,000 amps. Make sure it is connected to its own two pole breaker. It cannot share or be tied into the main breaker. If you are not a electrician make sure to turn the main off before doing any work in the panel.

[@bulklogan539]

It protects the main, but will it protect a 100 amp sub panel that is next to the main? I have a sub that powers a 15 amp light, 20 amp micro, and a 30 amp split AC unit with 2 heads. I have 2 spare 15 amp circuits too. This sub connects into the main with a 100 amp breaker so I think the surge protector would protect the sub too.

[@cast1070]

Is the ground and neutral same bar?

[@beyondfossil]

Why do all these installation videos have large circuit breaker panels with spare breaker slots? All the houses I've been in have barely any free room inside *and* all breakers slots are populated!

[@parklander6459]

Great video! Are more than one of those devices required if there are multiple panels in a home?

[@jrc01718]

No, when you install this as close to your home's power's main point of entry as possible, everything 'downstream' is protected. Since a sub panel is fed from the main panel, it is no more than another 2-pole circuit in the main panel, and therefore, protected just like everything else.

[@kellandavis7687]

If you're not an electrician can you just turn off the power at the outside breaker to be extra safe?

[@OldTechSis]

Good video. Question: what if the breaker box is full?

[@ShanPrez]

You would need to upgrade your panel to a larger one

[@lakecityransom]

@@ShanPrez This is not true. I will repeat what I said elsewhere: Your goal will be to attach to a double pole circuit breaker that you know will remain untripped. My suggestion is the dryer circuit. Do not illegally double-tap the existing circuit breaker. Google about this. You need to either pig tail or get a proper tandem double-pole circuit breaker replacement that is designed for double-tapping.

[@APOLLOstackwell]

How do you know where the neutral and the ground go? Are they interchangeable?

[@terrydavis5882]

In the main panel the ground and neutral share the same bar. It does not matter if the ground and neutral are next to each other. In sub panels they are separated and cannot share the same bar. Make sure to turn off the panel when installing the SPD and try and get it next to the main breaker if possible. If you need to add a little wire that is okay and make sure the SPD is on its own 2 pole breaker. Make sure to read the manufactures recommendations on what size to install. Good luck on your project.

[@cfraser650]

Excuse me if this is a stupid question but if you want to protect the whole house how can it only be wired into its own breaker? Wouldn't it have to be wired into the main breaker? How does this work to protect the whole house if it's only wired into its own breaker ?

[@jasonparkinson7621]

Informative. Muchas gracias.

[@MrRerod]

I don't get it. How does this whole house surge protector trip the main breaker if there's a surge of the main power? Or does it reduce the voltage? Thanks

[@MrShwaggins]

can you use this with a generac home generator?

[@peterfalcucci2117]

Is that main breaker the code because it seems a little low

[@zackerr838]

Eaton makes a Breaker style SPD for flush mount applications

[@hermancm]

Can you use any brand of surge protector in any brand of panel box? I would assume you can.

[@terrydavis3863]

Yes you can. Just make sure you get the right breaker size for you SPD

[@richardwild8089]

I just installed my 240V Car charger with 2 50amp breakers can I pop this in there instead of adding another 2? I would get the other model not this one. tyia