How to install and align 1st Gen F-body Firebird and Camaro doors & Front end sheet Metal episode 6

On this video I go over how to install and align completely new Sheetmetal for the entire front end sheet metal on a 1969 Pontiac Firebird. This will be the same process for all 1967 -1969 Pontiac Firebirds and Chevy Camaros. I start with the doors with adding new hinges and then give some tips and tricks when bolting them on the car. We go over inner fender mounting along with how to align the fenders to the doors. Once I am done with that we also add the hood on the project and go over Radiator support tips and tricks getting more adjustment in your parts. We close out the video with a walk around of the project with the panel gaps before we address them after the whole project is assembled.
#projectcars #sheetmetalrepair #autometaldirect #dynacorn #firebird #camaro #restoration #musclecar
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[@roonbooks3227]

The guy in the green tie dye shirt is soakin' it all up.a legend in the making

[@carthageclassiccars]

Haha, yea he is a good helper and I really hope he does absorb some of the stuff we are doing together.

[@jeffallen3382]

Your channel deserves 10x the number of subscribers you have Rick!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much for the feedback and watching!

[@patrickmerriman2952]

Great video. I am building a 69 Camaro resto mod and this video was very helpful! Thanks!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thats great to hear, thank you for watching and the comment!

[@timjohn2810]

Really enjoying this build. I had to slice (pie cut) my reproduction Trans Am hood in two areas for acceptable gaps plus cut and reweld the front center beak (tilt it downward slightly).

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you for the feedback. That is great information to know as I believe I will have to pie cut and pull it in a little bit on two separate corners now. I want to in the future check squareness of the TA hood as I feel it might be out some. Lucky the front of this one I think looks good on the tilt so far but who knows we will see.

[@robertandlinda53]

hi Rick I was watching this video. just wanted to say you are a heck of a teacher and a wonderful dad. Makes me think back to when I was learning how to do bodywork. my dad was doing the same things that you have been doing. I started back in the 70s after I got out of the navy. Just know that your son will remember all you are teaching him. love your videos. God bless you Bobby Davis

[@carthageclassiccars]

Bobby thank you very much for the very kind words. I do feel really lucky when Chase will ask if I need help in the garage and we are able to do these kind of things, god bless you too and thanks for watching!

[@sjd7188]

This is a great channel. I really like how he goes through different ways to do the work and why he does things a certain way. On this build I would be interested to know the rework of something this far gone compares cost wise to buying a repro body. At a young age he is showing his son some skills and work ethic.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much. As for the rework I am tracking everything and at the end of the metal work I am going to try and give an example of this vs a whole body the benefits and the disadvantages along with a somewhat in general cost difference.

[@brianendlich2218]

great video again! i'm glad i didn't start on my cuda before i found your site. i think i would have made a bunch of mistakes... i will keep tuned in before i actually start the sheet metal. thanks!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Awesome to hear that they seem to be helping you out, that's the main idea of the channel as I have also made a lot of mistakes and learned the hard way over the years, Actually still learning everyday.

[@Supanova70]

``The Master``

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks still learning so far from that but I do appreciate the compliment!

[@SWResto]

Glad to see you family members helping out ! I miss those days!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks, I am trying to enjoy these times with them and not rush it too much.

[@thruitallauto2538]

Man that thing is coming out nice

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot!

[@Mark-um7ey]

Lil man was looking like quit talking and tighten the bolt already pops lol Great job, enjoy your videos and much respect working with your family and keeping the next generation interested in the trade

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot ....haha yes most of the time he looks that way on camera because when in time lapse we are usually randomly talking and the "staged" camera is still something to get use too.

[@raystomberski4480]

Thanks awesome videos and info

[@carthageclassiccars]

You're welcome

[@captainrick01]

Such great information on this build! thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!!!!. I share your love for 69 birds as I was lucky enough to purchase an almost rust free one in Australia almost 30 years ago and I am gratefully still its proud owner.

[@carthageclassiccars]

That is awesome! Always great to hear from a fellow 69 Bird owner. Thanks a lot!

[@jackpalczynski7884]

Such nice work!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much!

[@kevinfriend3514]

Dammit man you're really good

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much

[@cliffjamerson3107]

Thanks for sharing

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome!

[@GoGoGarage]

Awesome, haven't seen any videos demonstrating front fender installations. I made some metal tabs to help hold the door during installation and keep a gap over the rockers. Thanks for sharing!

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome thanks for the feedback and great idea on the metal tabs that would really help for sure.

[@eduardorivera2460]

So nice to see you working with your Son too great job guys!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you!

[@markkowalski9693]

Love your videos!!!!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you

[@SubdivisionAuto]

Super freaking cool man wow I am always amazed how large a project you can pull off.... not as easy as it seems and it looks like a walk in the park for you. Nice to see you involve your family too thats awesome.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot these took a lot of trial and error the first time so the second time we assembled it makes it look smoother.

[@ty3095]

Another great video. Thanks for sharing all your tips on how to dial it in for the perfect fit.👍

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome thanks for the feedback!

[@cliftsgarage4974]

Thanks for going into this much detail. Good knowledge to have going in.

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome thanks for watching

[@JK_Nex_Garage]

Very informative. A lot of good tips on the front end install and door adjustment. Thanks for sharing 👍

[@carthageclassiccars]

You're welcome thanks for watching and the feedback

[@Rick-O-Shay60]

Thanks, Just the info. I needed. (Subd.)

[@carthageclassiccars]

Great to hear thanks for subscribing!

[@robertbreland4356]

Excellent video Rick, thanks for sharing..

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot for the feedback and watching!

[@raynyhus2026]

Looking good, it'll make for an easy finish work.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks and yes that's the idea is spend the time now so the fine tuning hopefully goes a little smoother.

[@abutcher2074]

Any word on when part 7 of the series is coming out? I've really been enjoying seeing this project come together. Keep up the good work!

[@carthageclassiccars]

I am hoping part 7 will be within the next two weeks. Things got really busy in the shop but I already started prepping and fitting stuff up for the next video. Thanks a lot for the interest in this series.

[@67NovaJayFoxbodyRestoration]

Thanks for the great video Rick!!

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome thanks for watching!

[@reavisstockard2994]

Great video, you do a really good job explaining the process. RESPECT !

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much!

[@Six4691]

Hey all sorry I’m late, I’ll catch the video!

[@carthageclassiccars]

I appreciate the support!

[@eduardorivera2460]

Which side was the original again sorry I missed that, but they look the same but at a glance little different, sorry. You guys got that front end lined up really nice.

[@carthageclassiccars]

The driver side is original and still has paint on it from the car from back in the day. The dull one on the passenger side is a dynacorn stamping and the side I had to cut. Another reason that I might be looking for a factory passenger side inner fender.

[@firstgenerationgarage2803]

I have done all first generation Firebird 69 is the most difficult one to do I'm finishing up a 68 at First generation garage

[@carthageclassiccars]

I have really been into the older firebirds for a while and have watched some of your build videos very cool stuff very nice work. The 68 your building now looks like a really nice build, thanks for watching!

[@firstgenerationgarage2803]

@carthageclassiccars thanks brother I really appreciate you watching my videos and thanks also for sharing your skills on these old muscle cars

[@neilpickett7534]

Rick could you get me a measurement from the top flat portion of your trunk floor to the upper rear window lip after you install your rear sheet metal? Thank you for your videos on this car. I’m building a 68 Firebird from the same state of cut down.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes that wouldn't be a problem, do me a favor when you see I hit that level remind me. Sometimes I got a lot going on and things can slip my mind. That's awesome about your 68 good luck on your build and keep me updated on how it goes and thanks a lot for watching!

[@neilpickett7534]

Not sure if you are installing the quarters yet, when you get them installed could I get that measurement from you at your convenience? Thank you Rick!

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@neilpickett7534 Yes you can let me know, but saying that with the quarters don't get too stuck on the numbers. I honestly almost never measure these cars off each other but verify side to side is the same. The tail panel, inner bracing, deck filler and trunk will honestly get your measurments centered off the trunk floor.

[@bcwoods360]

Hello Rick thank-you for the video. My 79 Firebird is like yours in respect to disassembly but I left the rear quarters on for now that will be eventually replaced. I left the quarters on so I could gap the doors to the original quarters and use that as a base for the rest of the car. So Im going from the back of the car forward which is opposite to what you are doing. Am I setting myself up for disaster? Does it even matter?

[@carthageclassiccars]

I don't think it would be a disaster but maybe put the front end on the car get the gaps close here and then swap the quarters on the rear with everything else installed. There have been many times I have done car similar to what your doing and it works. I have found this way here in the video a little more work, that has to be done anyway but really makes the final outcome sometimes nicer. Good luck with your build!

[@tracycolorado]

She's a beauty 😍.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you

[@darrelllayton196]

Hi Rick, I'm restoring my 67 Camaro and I'm about to finish/restore the engine bay area. I've been looking for one of your videos where you've done that but can't find one. Can you please tell me how you restore the engine bay on a high end restoration? I know you first spray epoxy primer but what are your next steps and do you spray basecoat over the epoxy primer and then a semi-gloss clearcoat or would a semi-gloss enamel work? Thanks in advance for your help.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Depends on how high end you want to take it. I plan on showing that in a future video but if you want it perfect base and clear on the car I would epoxy, then 2k primer sanded out with 600 or red scotch Brite and then sealer, base and clear. Also saying that if your just looking for a really nice smooth black chassis paint. I have just done epoxy and chassis black.

[@pontiacontap]

Really informative video. I have a '69 bird that the front end has lacked decent alignment since the body shop completed it in 2007. I'm trying to correct it and this helps solidify my thoughts that the core support needs to be moved towards the passenger side. The batwing has little to no left to right adjustment and as a result my passenger fender is inset at the headlight surround while the driver fender is outboard of the headlight surround. The valence appears to be offset to the drivers side between 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I'm hoping you can answer a question for me however. On my car the passenger fender's lower front section where it meets the valence and wheelhouse shelf is on top of the shelf when viewed from under the car. On the driver's side it's reverse of that. Do you happen to know which side is correct?

[@carthageclassiccars]

Ok well without being in front of the car trying stuff myself I have run into the front "batwing" piece being off especially with the aftermarket ones. The last one I slotted the holes where it bolts too and actually have stuck tiny washers to shim it up and down for a nice fitment. What else before you start moving stuff all around is take two points on the back firewall that are the same and cross measure them to make sure the front end is square. If the Radiator support is not square that has also misaligned everything. At that point you are going to have to play with the metal nose piece adjustments shifting it back and forth then work with the batwing piece last. Looking at the firebird the valance / front fender section the valance and fender should go outside under the inner fender. You can tell this as the body clips are indented inward on the inner fender showing that would be the bottom piece. Usually also the painted body color piece shouldn't tuck behind something. Hope that helps a bid and good luck .

[@pontiacontap]

@@carthageclassiccars Thanks for the information. I'm fairly certain the fenders are canted towards the driver's side. The hood to fender and hood to cowl gaps are all even. However the body line on the cowl where it runs under the window trim and meets the body lines on the upper fenders, do not match. The cowl panel is crooked by about a 1/4 inch too deep on the driver's side. Otherwise all body gaps are very good. The fenders are repops, but everything else is OEM pieces. I think my plan is to loosen up everything forward of the firewall, remove the hood and valence and try to shift the core towards the passenger side, then try to get a better alignment to the headlight bezels from there.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@pontiacontap That sounds like a great plan leave everything you can loose and start pushing and don't worry about making some adjustment holes a little larger.

[@SixBarrel]

🍻 like always a Great job .

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot for the support!

[@kevinbaker9352]

How did you pull the center of the passenger fender in I am having the same problem

[@carthageclassiccars]

I put a slice in the back bracket removing some material so it bends over more on itself and used a strap to pull it until I tack welded it in place

[@kevinbaker9352]

thank you .

[@johnkelly6942]

Are you painting the car?

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes I will also paint this car

[@richardchristianson2823]

It's too bad aftermarket parts are so incorrectly made. Just gives the body man a lot of unnecessary work. I'm glad I've got original parts for my 69.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes I agree if you have the usable originals count yourself lucky. I look at it as the glass half full as if they did spend a lot more time with the stampings they would probably be completely unreasonably priced.

[@richardchristianson2823]

​@@carthageclassiccars but many of the issues are minor, and could have been addressed initially and there have been cases of retooling because the parts were unacceptable by restorers. I think the 69 hood was one of those.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@richardchristianson2823 I would agree especially it seems the more popular the vehicle is usually the better the stampings, probably from exactly what you described.