How to Install Braided Brake Lines

[@RianEffendi]

Btw guys, when bleeding the brakes a general rule is to start on the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the nearest, small but vital tip. Cheers

[@barkskindog]

Depends on the vehicles manual specification, some cars have different bleed sequences.

[@vermontvermont9292]

​@@barkskindog like later gen honda civics. You actually start with drivers side front (left hand drive) then pass front, rear pass, rear drivers. Then hit electric parking brake 5 x and do the process one more time.

[@jetjazz05]

I've done sway bars, stainless brake lines, thinner/wider/stickier tires (kept the correct tire diameter of course), a short shifter, and poly bushings on my suspension to my Saab. I don't race my car on a track or drive it very hard, but the difference in just every day driving on my car compared to stock is so much tighter and more stable. These mods you've done will definitely make your lap times faster just from the confidence you'll have in the car's ability.

[@MerpSquirrel]

One thing they didn't mention(likely since they do not have to worry about it) is that you need to beware that in colder climates where it snows as well as where they put down salt for ice covered roads Stainless lines will corrode more than rubber lines so you need to either get coated lines, or check them often to make sure there is not damage to the lines or they might fail you just like Mecha Stig's line.

[@bgd73]

good point. I am on 27 year old "rubber" (why did moog call it that?). The other thing is the stainless knows how to move the static pressure. Might be good or bad on the miata, can only try.

[@seregarn]

I sprayed mine with rust check (the oily kid not the kind that hardens) 1ce a week in the winter time

[@KSenhor]

Very useful episode for Portuguese viewers. One of the few mods we can make in Portugal due to the restrictions in cars modifications. Thanks MCM

[@OrbiterElectronics]

Just in case ya don't know guys... Don't get brake fluid anywhere near ya paintwork! If ya do manage to spill some... Wash it off with loads of water IMMEDIATELY!!!

[@arthurstein-tarnowski4732]

John - Orbiter thanks bro didn’t know about that

[@Aaron-ot1xs]

See also: RB 26 into Fairlady/Z. The only trace of a brake system in the car after clearing customs was the rust below the master cylinder.

[@frankcollins6189]

@@Aaron-ot1xs this is common on any older car.. usually eats the frame rail away

[@j4ckGamez97]

Moog actually is really good at narrating/voice over. very clear and natural

[@kTSWaynos]

great video again guys, my Dad passed away in Jan and I'm doing his old Astra up as a tribute to him, I have a project running on my car review blog your videos are a great source of info and an inspiration for me. Since my blog is non profit and I have a very limited budget I will using some of your ideas to mod it.

[@TheAngryDuckman]

Just a helpful tip for you guys. Use gloves when doing this procedure as the brake fluid has chemicals that get absorbed by the skin. The absorbed chemicals can hurt your liver. This is applicable for certain brake fluids, though.

[@mightycarmods]

Good tip, thanks!

[@adamvince]

+TheAngryDuckman There Australians they don't need gloves

[@marinusgouw]

+adamvince "there" Really.

[@adamvince]

yep really dem auzies way more man that you soft things Marinus Gouw

[@Ojgville4l]

+Seanzky Australians?

[@MisterNBG]

I don't like Miata's... or most Mazdas for that matter... But what I do like are cars purpose built. Cars that have had a lot of time and effort put into for them to accomplish certain things. This little MX5... I respect. I Fucking love track cars! I hope they stick to this build and keep chasing the .10's of seconds on tracks!

[@uncleputes]

What He said

[@Beer_Dad1975]

I think they are awesome little cars - but I wouldn't be caught dead driving one, because fantastic as they are, they are definitely a girls car.

[@michaell9974]

Matthew Sharpe Not a girl's car. You must be a dummy.

[@FXloaphy]

Matthew Sharpe hahahah nah, im not into them either but definitely not a girls car. they were built to do shit like this to, and are made to have fun driving around twisties.so not a girls car

[@roddydykes7053]

10 years later they are definitely a highly desirable car. Especially the NA and NB

[@DocumentaryHub]

Also a good tip is: Put something on your brake pedal that holds the brake before you do this job. It will stop the brake fluid from leaking out while changing the brake lines.

[@DocumentaryHub]

Alari Avila No it won't. When the brake pedal stays pressed down it won't leak at all. Just a little bit of course, the few drops in the lines.. If you knew how a master brake cylinder works you would know why. Don't be a smart ass if you do not know what you are talking about... I do this for a living.

[@jagerbomb7810]

That is the worst idea anyone has ever had. I hope you're trolling. LOL

[@DocumentaryHub]

jagerbomb7810 No its not. It works! Every real car mechanic knows this...

[@jagerbomb7810]

Patrick Carta If you press the brake pedal the fluid is under pressure. If you crack open a brake line while its under pressure, its just going to squirt everywhere.,

[@DocumentaryHub]

jagerbomb7810 Just a little bit, after that it stops! You are just wrong.. I do this almost everyday...

[@briguy91931]

Marty- get an LSD!!! It makes a HUGE difference. Definitely worth the money! Look around and find one used. Totaled track cars abound for parts!

[@FuCaneNdaClique]

cheapest thing would be getting a torsen lsd from a 1.9l NB, It would even have a better ratio for a turbod miata. the stock 1.6 NA one has a ratio of 4.3, and the 1.9l NB one has a 4.1.

[@DanielB-py1yi]

Just watched this 10 yrs later and Marty says "In the Bin" at 8:52. Start of something he never knew.

[@andyfitz1992]

Reporting in today, can't believe I missed this one!

[@mitchellmortenson2481]

The rear, Marty's favorite

[@Zsolti000]

+Mitchell Mortenson and the qestion is: does he prefer give or get?

[@theolliproductions]

ask cheryl about that

[@ODPTV1]

the callipers are not red -_- what happned to the classic mighty car mod style

[@promethbastard]

They're holding off on the extra kW until the rest of the car can support it of course.

[@bernardlim2888]

6:50 Wheel off and vehicle on stand, for safety don't put your legs under the vehicle. it remind me of some accident occurs. Don't take things for granted,those stand are not perfectly safe.

[@timtheaussie6980]

um, then how else to you work under a car? please enlighten me! if you buy good quality ones and PLACE them right then there should be no problem? i have sometimes in the past put some tires and rims under the car just for extra stability from swaying side to side but otherwise i see no point.

[@bernardlim2888]

***** I've being using 4 post hoist system for many years now. I only use those axle stand for smaller jobs.Even I was require to use one of those stands, I always work in a position i can easily get out of the way in-case the stand slip off. you can also lay worn tire under the front and rear of the vehicle for extra support instead of vehicle crashing down to the floor and it also made recovery easier. Don't use those stand at it's maximum extended height,as a guide when your vehicle is resting on the stand and your tire should be 1 -1.5 inches away from the ground , just enough room to remove the wheel and work on your vehicle, and stands are more rigid and don't sway much. Have fun and stay safe.

[@timtheaussie6980]

i put tires on the sides and its pretty hard not going pretty high when you don't have a 4 point hoist trying to change a transmission! i had to have the car at least 8-9 inches from the ground but i had old 265 4x4 wheels laying around worked well!

[@jayflow1150]

***** Yep! When I take the wheel off, i slide it straight under the sil of the car. Denting the lip on a wheel is better than crushing my leg.

[@timtheaussie6980]

i rest the pinch weld on the tire?

[@solesearched]

Flare nut wrenches are the absolute BEST investment you could ever make if you do brake jobs frequently. Love them. Fantastic as usual guys!

[@childlover39657]

Hello from Canada. i have recently turbo'd my 2001 mx5 at 12psi and i totally understand your love for these cars. tones of power mixed with low weight and excellent handling make for a decent sized grin for every time that i drive it. Thanks for putting up these videos.

[@Mega6pak]

there should be a skit called "Moog's fact of the day" and he always ends it with "That's a fact!"

[@metroswiftman]

Quick tip clamp the rubber hose close to the caliper. remove banjo bolt. install new hose/ braided brake line on caliper with new copper or aluminum washers. then crack loose the hose from the hard line remove the clip, unscrew the old hose and screw in new hose/ braided line. minimal fluid will spill as little as a drop or two. ton's of ways to do it that's just my way.

[@MrVegardhs]

you could altso use a airbleeder tool with no compressed air, connect it to a bleedplug on a caliper. Then slowly press your brakepedal all the way to the bottom. Use something to hold it there and the brakefluid will usualy not drain from the pipes:-) just like holding a finger over a straw and raise it up from a glass of wather, the wather/brakefluid wil stay in the staw/brakelines

[@derekhobbs1102]

Tyler Buck I also have a stash of the bungs that come with new cylinders, slip them over open end of line to give more working time.

[@raymondlau3]

It is also handy to have some brakekleen or a similar product. If you spill any fluid, clean it up straight away - if left it can eat away at paint and metal etc. If your brake fluid container isn't easy to pour into, use a funnel or wrap a rag around the little bottle. The old tip it from a height and hope it all goes in is a bit risky!

[@AutoYoung]

They're not getting boring they're just being more technical and not as goofy. They're giving us more mature straight to the point content with sum of they're usual humor sprinkled in. Plus they do other things. I know for a fact Moog is busy with his first love, his music.

[@thaik56]

Should have made a hole in the balloon to make it more scientific!

[@SeattleGooby]

Love your videos guys, keep up the great work! For the demo, what would be better is putting a hole in the balloon. Essentially the problems occur when pressure applied is not quite enough to slow the car down, the line expands prior to supplying the additional pressure. High heat brake fluid may also prove to be substantially beneficial in this aspect to prevent the brakes from boiling over. For those thinking of purchasing braided lines, be really careful, buy quality as suggested, and inspect them regularly, you have to keep in mind there is a reason they don't use them in high performance cars from the factory, where cost isn't an issue.

[@RWoody1995]

video uploaded an hour ago and people complaining about errors... come on guys, never uploaded a video to youtube before? its called processing --_--

[@pauliusguzas8063]

8:50 is where the original IN THE BIN was born

[@whatscrakn101]

Hahaha the ending 😂

[@SoLSamuraibloodblade]

I have a tip for anyone who wants to do this mod or has to service the hydraulic side of a brake system. 1 Get a 2x4 2 cut 2x4 to length so that it can be wedged on the brake petal to the drivers seat(cover seat with a rag to prevent damage) You want to get the petal to be far enough down to lightly hold the brakes on. Use caution when opening the lines or use the bleeder to release the slight pressure in the lines. Doing this pushes the seals in the master cylinder past the ports that allow the fluid to replenish the master cylinder, and if done correctly will hold the fluid in the lines(except for the original pressure from 2x4). This keeps wasted fluid and potential mess to a minimum and also keeps air from traveling up lines. This could also be done to help bleed a brake system by yourself by pump brakes, hold with 2x4, open bleeder, close bleeder and repeat until all air is out,

[@Dsing1985]

I think you guys need to sort out this error that most of us are having, it works on my phone but I much prefer to watch it on my desktop. Enjoying all your videos guys keep it up cant wait for more!!!

[@Lambbeast99]

you guys are sick i watch all the vids you guys actually changed my mind i wanted to go to school to learn to fix and build motorcycle's but now i wanna go to learn how to build and fix cars it actually looks fun

[@siralexu]

put a plastic bag inside the master cylinder cap and screw it on tight is should create a vaccum which should keep the fluid from dripping

[@BigAdam2050]

Note for folks, you might want to crack the caliper bleed nipples BEFORE you start taking everything apart. They have a tendency to rust in place.

[@m4x_b00st7]

heat them up, if they don't move

[@BigAdam2050]

Max Power Always get worried about the seals in them when I do that.

[@m4x_b00st7]

well, just heat the nippel and not the whole caliper

[@Bhong666]

Good tip for cooling on MXs is to get an A/C fan for the radiator and wire it up to a switch on the dash. Cheap, simple and works well! Of course if you have A/C already then just remove it and use the fan to cool the engine. Why convertibles need A/C I will never know... Great vid as usual!

[@CelesteVivid]

Why it needs A/C is due to the fact roof down still equals hot air in your face drying you out like a dusty old mummy, and roof down doesn't help in traffic jams or other times you go slow to catch a tan or sunburn. Also Dehumidifies so you don't stick like a dirty old bandaid to leather or composite covered seats.

[@harveyhandbanana]

"I wanna be a bush rat" Marty's shining moment of the video

[@thumper124cc]

I don't mean to be a ball breaker but an easy way to explain the difference between rubber and braided lines is that rubber expands under pressure and gets worse with age. It also expands from the heat generated while braking and can become very dangerous. Braided lines expand quite minimally and provide consistent braking and greatly reduce the chance of brake failure.

[@BMWLyrre]

Heres a tip! When you doing some brake work like changing brakelines or caliper. Press your brakepedal and lock it in the bottom with a wooden plank or something against the seat. Then open the bleed valve on the caliper (watch out so you dont get the fluid on you its under pressure so use a hose that goes in to a can or something). It will just empty the fluid in the line. That way the master cylinder will not get empty on fluid! But like always you must bleed the brake lines afterwards

[@jameshaskell1073]

That was a brilliant explanation of the difference between rubber and braided lines!!!

[@fsewerewolf]

I'm sure someone already said this, but to avoid soaking the floor and parts in brake fluid, use a piece of wood or pipe to engage the brake pedal against the driver seat. That way, the master cylinder blocks any more fluid from draining out, and the back pressure means that the fluid in the pipes stays in the pipes, making the switch less of a mess. :)

[@lienee22]

GOOD TIP!!! Open one brake pipe. Then fix your brake pedal in the floor. That will stop fluid leak while you change your brake lines. Clean job!

[@offspringy]

Tip: before removing the banjo bolts, push the brake pedal down and hold it there with a broom wedged in place with the car seat and you wont lose nearly as much fluid :)

[@bassbeater2k3]

Also be aware braided lines are not as robust as OEM. My ST205 GT-Four came with after market braided lines. Due to the nature of the super strut suspension means the front brake lines come in two parts and are under a lot of load. Luckily for me the brake line went at a set of traffic lights after a heavy track day session in the middle of summer. Turned out the hose fatigued at the joint due to the constant suspension changes and being less flexible than rubber. Replaced them with OEM Toyota items which ironically turned out to be both braided and rubber so the best of both worlds.

[@attackrus3852]

I've been refreshing your video page for hours.

[@MrCbike]

ahhhh the anticipation for the cars is crazy!!!

[@someusername121]

Pro tip on removing the hose clip at 4:40....pinch it flat on each side using pliers before pulling it out....makes it enormously easier to remove. Obviously you'll need new clips, but they're cheap.

[@Atergia]

Its December LETS SEE THOSE NEW CARS FELLAS

[@technewsfortechnoobs]

"something out of Willie Wonka's sex dungeon"...OMG, I swear I just shot coffee out of my nose at that comment!!! Best. Comment. EVER!!!!

[@DaBurntchip]

If you put a bar on the brake pedal before starting it will prevent loss of fluid. also bleed the furthest caliper away from the master cylinder first. This prevents any air being trapped in the system.

[@FroztiProductions]

The banjo bolt doesn't swivel so it should be clocked. Attach it but leave it loose, see where it rests then rotate to where you think it would be if suspension is at resting position. Always make sure your line isn't rubbing, and turn the wheels to check. If the car is too low to look just rest all lower control arms on a jack stand.

[@estewar03]

I disagree that mcm is now boring, I still love every episode. My only complaint is they are just not long enough. Even the 10+ min vids seem like only 5 or less, because it's actually interesting shit to watch so everyone needs to stop bitching, shut up and enjoy what they get for free.

[@wag8912]

I've come across some stainless braided kits for the roadster that utilize a plastic sheath covering the length of the braided section, which I presume should mostly nullify the effects of salty winter-road driving. Also, if I'm not mistaken, the stainless braiding of the line covers the actual (teflon?) fluid line. Thus, whether or not the stainless braid is absolutely required for the functionality or if it's solely for physical protection from the elements I do not know.. maybe someone can clarify? Also, I love the series guys, keep it up!! You've gained another subscriber!!

[@BlueXonar]

If you don't have a flare nut spanner, you can hack up an old ring spanner. Which is what I use. :)

[@prospeedracing]

Brakes are one of the most important parts of a vehicle. To ensure you enjoy a safe ride it is vital to keep your brakes working in top condition and the best way you can do that is by keeping the brakes well-oiled and change the fluids periodically. Changing the brake fluids regularly not only ensures safety but also increases the life of the braking system.

[@AKhellbindeR]

Guys, you should really use rubber gloves. Brake fluid is extremely harsh on your hands.

[@mechanicadam2011]

also is a good way of starting a huge fire,m but stand back :-D

[@sclark1701]

So glad I wasn't the only one thinking this!! Also believe it has been linked to causing cancer...like everything else, but still worth a $10 box of nitrile gloves :)

[@Cendius]

I'm doing this mod on my 2004 Land Rover Freelander at the weekend. Cheers for the guide.

[@Melonmadman]

"Make sure everything is clean, pull up your shorts and then install the new braided line" I grinned like a school boy hearing that haha

[@pepperfish_]

another reason why it may be overheating is that with a water cooled turbo the cooling system has the added demand of cooling down the turbo. it is a good idea with small displacement turbo engines to add and seperate cooler in the return coolant line to prevent super heated coolant from entering the engine.

[@BioHazardRIOT]

I replaced all my rubber flexis with goodridge braided brake pipes a few weeks ago, as they were starting to perish and rub on my coilovers but it was well worth the money and having to replace nearly all the brake pipes as they twisted when taking off the unions

[@IlDeimos]

This is a good mod to do on your car, I agree. And not to mention, it also looks good with the metal braided line. It gives the car a small unique look. Thanks guys!

[@mk3supersupra]

also good to check what brake fluid type your car takes as there are different grades eg; DOT 3, DOT 4. another trick if you can is to clamp the line further up if the car has soft lines other wise clamp the old line until its ready to come off, you avoid losing more fluid.

[@bennoodles1993]

moog: I didn't like the music you had on the shows earlier but I can really tell that you have perfected your craft and I would like to say the music on this vid was MAAAAAAD

[@BrownStig95]

Love your videos and Moog's random facts are just the thing to top it all off

[@mjdmzn]

10:50 don't worry mate, that cat is giving you a free tire shine :)

[@TrueBlueEG8]

Good tip for any one doing this job, use a piece of wood between the driver seat and brake pedal, to keep the pedal pressed slightly, and you will loose very little fluid.

[@1991Aslak]

if you are going to take off the brakelines after the mastersylinder. a way of not making a mess is to take something long an fit it on your brakepedal and onto your seat, so the pedal is half way in. this prevents the brakefluid to come uot when the system is now under vacum ;-) words from a mechanic. great vids btw

[@GhoulH8r]

You guys need to swap the rear diff out with a 8.8 ford thunderbird center. I know it's American and might be hard to find, but will allow you to support more power cheaply; or at least it would here. It's a fairly common swap over here in the states., especially with V8 swapped Miata's.

[@wrcgt4]

Bigger calipers , 5.1 fluid , some decent pads ( ebc , project mu ) and a set if fresh slotted rotors and this little beast will pull up heaps better !

[@RianEffendi]

True... From personal experience I think rubber lines are better for daily use as they give the pedal some give so you can feather the brakes better compared to fully braided lines that remove any give and make it feel either too touchy either a on or off deal or feels dead like no vacuum. Still a good mod racecar or not.

[@MrJimbobDP]

hygroscopic would of been worth a mention tho guys...if some people use old fluid they maybe in trouble lol,,..still a great vid :)

[@TheTardis157]

I'm so glad my car's brake setup has two semi separate circuits so that if a line does break you can still stop the car with two wheels.

[@ΜΟΛΩΝΛΑΒΕ-θ1σ]

I've got to brake lines in my car soon. awesome, guys

[@devolutionrc8016]

The bush rat has been marked. Lol. Please take the mud flaps off, it was the first thing I did to my 3 series 14 years ago. The stone chips are worth it.

[@barryhansen1111]

Noticed you guys didn't say to use new banjo washers. I would highly recommend using new banjo washers every time you replace your brake hoses. The washers actually gets squished to make a air tight seal. When you reuse the washers, they usually will leak.

[@ChristmasCrustacean1]

I have a WA festiva, the stud pattern is 4x114.3 and the brakes suck 219mmx13mm solid fronts which bolt to the back of the front hubs making the discs hard to change and the rear drums are 170x60mm the fortunate thing is the later model festiva WB-WF front stubs and rear drum(with a little modification) assemblys both fit, which not only means I am able to use the more common 4x100 wheel pattern but I am also able to run the larger later model 235x22 vented fronts and 200x70 rear drums... but the thing is the late model lasers also ran the same 235x22 rotors in the base model and 257x22mm front discs. while I am in here I am also upgrading to braided brake lines, I couldn't find any for the Festiva until I remembered that it was also known as the kia pride in Europe and Asia I'm just waiting on the set of bearings for the drum rebuild and one of the front lower control arms and I can get to work. combined with the 15" steelies from a corolla and 195x45r15 kuhmo ku31s on the front its going to be able to stop on a 5c piece

[@AutomotivEivind]

Love your vids! Keep it up guys!!:) One tip for next time: Put something between the drivers seat and the brake pedal to press it down partially. That will block the outlet from the reservoar, and less fluid will spill.

[@bompyride]

finally some descent mods again! thanks guys!

[@timramich]

You should do the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work you way closer. In a RHD isntance, it would be left rear, right rear, left front, right front. For LHD, right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

[@ryanbox30]

Just a tip for the next time you guys do work on brakes. Place a broken broomstick between the driver seat and the brakepedal. This will prevent the brake fluid from passing trough the master cilinder and save you guys a lot of stress having to work quickly.

[@g6qwerty]

Don't get the cheep line wrenches I've have to hammer them back together after putting some force on them. Also sometimes you may need some rust penitent like PB blaster and or a propane torch if their rusted bad.

[@ericsson_motorsports]

8:51 IN THE BIN!

[@brettgeorge2987]

Love the videos guys, but I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say, let's at least the new cars. Nice videos guys.

[@boozobug]

You can glad wrap the top of the master cylinder reservoir to stop or slow down the fluid lose while working on it :)

[@SSRT1000]

you need to glow or replace the copper rings, or else they might leak!

[@1991Aslak]

and also when you are bleeding your brakes, you have to begin longest away from the mastersylinder, in this case left rear, then right rear, left front, right front.

[@JbirdAndTaterBug]

Got a suggestions for you guys. Block the brake pedal down with something aginst the seat. It really helps on not losing fluid.

[@Justus_Justice]

How about using (rubber) gloves when handling mean stuff like brake fluid? Using a bigger master cylinder also gives some additional stopping power, particularly if you're thinking about upgrading the calipers.

[@halotruckofficial1307]

Good news for you Moog, bush rats are incredibly cute and not as creepy or off-putting as mice or the new-york sewer rat! Had one in the bath tub the other day and had to get him outside. Put a box in the tub and he climbed straight in. They must be quite inquisitive aswell.

[@shodanxx]

Yeah, well braided brake lines don't expand that much less compare to new original lines. Maybe a few thousands of inches less pedal travel, it's nothing compared to the difference between old worn original lines and new ones.

[@akkudakkupl]

True, but also the braided lines are less prone to mechanical damage.

[@shodanxx]

hmm I'll take oem brake lines over exposed braid any day.

[@jaybestcole]

shodanxx Exposed braid?

[@shodanxx]

The outermost part of the line is a fine mesh of wire, that can easy get damaged compared to rubber hoses, especially by abrasion.

[@jaybestcole]

shodanxx Purpose of the braided mesh is to protect the hose inside and reduce expanding of the hose

[@guy990]

MAD! Love these videos, and keep doing what you guys are doing.

[@RedneckMechanics]

I replaced the thermostat on a friend of mine Mazda Tribute today. One bolt was soo tight that i snapped a small bone in my hand because of the tork i made with the wrench... It made a big noise when it snapped. My friend heard it from the other side of the garage! Actually the bolt was holding stronger then my bone!

[@nobodyspecial313]

Sounds like you need more milk in your diet!

[@MrUltraworld]

While you're at it, maybe a set of hi po brake pads? Synthetic fluid? A cheap upgrade that will make a big difference until you can replace the stock calipers & rotors.

[@gustavo66bueno]

i got a 90's nissan z32 and ima do this mod this weekend!

[@mbp9tf]

So, I'm actually (conveniently) looking at doing a full braking system upgrade on my car, soon (just a VW Passat, but I want better brake reaction, and it's about time to replace the brakes, anyway). SO - I've done brake pads and rotors, in the past, but this will be my first time doing the lines. The video makes it look simple enough (and I know there will likely be a few hiccups, when put into practice), but I did have one major question: Any time I've done brake work, in the past (none of which has ever had any problems down the line, mind you), I've simply refilled the master cylinder during the final bleeding/after all of the work is done. However, we're told and shown a couple times throughout this tutorial to be sure to top off the fluid after each wheel well's work is finished, at the very least. As I'm not the most mechanically knowledgeable person, can anyone explain to me why I ought to top off the fluid repeatedly throughout the operation, rather than waiting until done?

[@adamfreeman1219]

Matthew Poposky basically saying keep an eye on the master cylinder to make sure it stays full enough to prevent air getting into the system and creating more work for yourself.

[@briguy91931]

BittererWesley- the 7.5" out of a V6 mustang is independent irs and so is the 8.8" out of any 90s tbird as well as the irs cobra 8.8. Lol. If I do swap out i'll be putting in an irs (most likely the 7.5" for clearance) with 3.27 or 3.55 gears

[@catch22678]

there has never been a v6 mustang with irs. the only mustang with irs is the cobra you spoke of.

[@lucaspaulina9727]

8:52 IN THE BIN

[@BeeBeefy]

Ikea table lamp! Super nice to use! Flexibleee

[@TacTorsion]

Thanks for the video guys! I'll be installing my Goodridge Phantom lines to my STI very soon!

[@UCs6ktlulE5BEeb3vBBOu6DQ]

I'd like to point out that EVERY flexible brake lines ever made were braided. The ones called braided as performance upgrades are just braided line without the protective rubber on top. And some may have a bit more braiding.

[@McTw1st]

Quick tip, put the breaks on and you wont loose as much fluid

[@freakyflow]

How i did my upgrade : Newer Higher temp brake fluid 2 bottles, 4 slotted and crossdrilled rotors. 8 ceramic brake pads 5 Goodridge stainless steel lines..Total fluid flush (old fluid was from 2005) whole idea is getting rid of heat and quicker stopping and longer wear times Not for racing but hauling a trailer and a boat and other equipment ..really no point of changing lines first then going out and getting rotors and pads It's like buying a gas then shopping for a car

[@dantesparda6819]

well done boys, good video!! funny, informative and backyard diy style!! please bring your episode seasons out on blu ray I would totes buy that!!

[@mightycarmods]

We may do just that! thanks for the kind words

[@dantesparda6819]

no problems, such a massive fan! it is painful to see all the negative comments directed towards you guys by ppl who prob don't even own/modify cars but are still experts! considering the massive budget you guys DONT have, your show rubs unicorn balls over motortrend and top gear etc! im proud to say that I'm from the same country as u guys!

[@thomisonnnnn]

FINALLY IT"S WORKING! THANK YOU!