How To Install Car/Auto Body Mounts On A C3 Corvette By Corvette Hop

Video Demonstrates How To Replace Body Mounts on a car. This Body Mount replacement process is demonstrated on a 1969 Corvette. Some great tips in the video with a few do's and don'ts.

[@randywatsonii3173]

Thanks man! I’m gonna do this while everything else is off and out. Damn fine presentation.

[@AO-xr8mk]

I just completed replacing the body mounts on my 70 vet following your instructions. I have to say that I love your videos but sometimes I wish I wouldn't run out to my car and start doing the work. Changing the body mounts by myself was a bear of a job but I'm glad I did it. The only recommendation I would make is to use 3" bolts as opposed to 2 1/2". Location one and four were nearly impossible for me to reach with 2 1/2" bolts. This may just be the case with my vehicle, but an extra 1/2" isn't going to hurt anything. That was the only minor deviation I had to take from your video, otherwise, it was right on the money -- Thank you!

[@TheWhatisright]

Great input. Thank you so much. How does it ride? Also, how did you get the #4 body mount bolt in?

[@TimeToBeKind]

“An extra 1/2” isn’t going to hurt anything” Shaq’s wife has to disagree with you.

[@tonyinacay3652]

lock washer on nuts, not needed on bolt head side.

[@pellerinphilippe8872]

Is there play to adjust the body on the frame, (left to right) once all the body mounts are removed?

[@georgeminnich3305]

Watched the video up until the Biden 2020- commercial popped up early in the video. I immediately stopped there.

[@skyeking1]

Thanks for the quick reply... I'm getting ready to pull the engine and transmission. I plan on cleaning up the engine compartment and replacing the Muncie with a Tremec 5 speed. This may be the time to do the mounts I thought.

[@bonnivilleblackcherry9745]

Those bolt heads are corroded. Not stripped. I have a resto shop in which we do our own sand blasting (also side work). Bolts that old look stripped. Speaking of sand blasting. I would suggest you get your frame blasted as it looks like its been covering in rockerguard/undercoating and fuck knows what thats hiding that could end up being the cause of your death. A few mths back I blasted the frame of a monte carlo. If you know cars, they were infamous for rot in the wheel arch of the back frame. Well this guy swore the frame was solid but he wanted the undercoating off and epoxy coated. Well he was in for a surprise when he showed up at the end of the day. Driver side was patched with 22 or 20 ga tin at best. Riveted in and then covered up with the undercoating. With the millage of your undercoating I suspect it was sprayed on thick for a reason as well.

[@jharlan8976]

I would love to know what color that C3 corvette is that you’re changing the body mounts on

[@TheWhatisright]

That is Monza Red 974 2089. One of the colors offered in 1969.

[@jharlan8976]

@@TheWhatisright Thank you l appreciate the information

[@goodboyringo9716]

I'm just wondering if the body mounts are all loose would rear of the body shift side to side any ?

[@charlesclemons741]

I've watched this video a few times and now I feel confident enough to tackle the job. Excellent work! By the way, what monoleaf are you using in the rear??

[@gabefoster8620]

Amazing video man much appreciated 👏

[@gldf111]

Hi. I noticed that you have the composite spring. What's the spring rate? How's the ride? And which bilstein shock do you have? I'm planning to get one of these too. Thx.

[@TheWhatisright]

I have the 330 lbs composite springs leaf springs on the rear with Bilstein Sport shocks. It drives very nice. I also have the Bilsteins shocks on the front. It took almost 10 weeks to receive the rear shock because Bilstein had a low production at the time I ordered them.

[@AO-xr8mk]

I haven't had a chance to drive it much but the one trip I took around the block seemed significantly smoother. The #4 body mount was installed using a three inch bolt and holding it in place with good old fashion duck tape. This very technical method held the bolt while I climbed my way in the car to install the washer and nut. I held the nut with a ratchet and an extended 5/8 socket. As you know, I was working alone so I had to move quickly before the duck tape gave way. Fortunately, it held and I was able to torque it down. It was all a bit of a juggling act but in the end it worked.

[@TheWhatisright]

Great job. Thank you for the input.

[@ssdtrain1]

Hi I have a 68 corvette, and in the back the body seems to sit higher on the passenger side verses the driver. You can see that the right rear bumper is tilted up at an angle a little, is that a sign of bad rear or broken mounts?? thanks, love the vids..

[@TheWhatisright]

It could be, or a bad front springs, shocks, body mounts or even a prior accident. Some of the old C3 Corvettes are a little off from the manufacture. It could be many things. My right side fender is about 1 1/2 higher than the left side but the car drives great and very straight.

[@ssdtrain1]

@@TheWhatisright hmmm, your right rear or front right fender..?

[@TheWhatisright]

@@ssdtrain1 Right rear. I changed and check everything. Mine was in an accident from a previous owner. Everthing else checked out. I did change the body mounts (much needed) and springs/shocks. It drives amazing.

[@ssdtrain1]

@@TheWhatisright ok, last thing,, is your frame bent? is that the cause?

[@TheWhatisright]

@@ssdtrain1 No, frame is in very good shape.

[@renevantol4022]

Good demo but where can I get the rubber parts

[@TheWhatisright]

Look on Ecklers corvette.com

[@thedrivewayC3]

Thanks for this. That’s a lot of work! Appreciate it

[@TheWhatisright]

You bet!

[@bicycle697]

Very helpful info!! Do you have vids of the frame being lifted off?

[@TheWhatisright]

Rob, I do not have a video with the full body lifted off. However, not much more to do than I did in this video. The steering box would need to be fully disconnected and all wires.

[@bicycle697]

@@TheWhatisright Ok, good to know! Thanks!!

[@vinny2060]

Thanks I’m tryin to help my dad with his 70 where are u from?

[@TheWhatisright]

Vinny, I am in Texas

[@Steven-mj5mo]

They are called gills homie. Just like the fish

[@davejalenderki]

Excellent video as well as step by step instructions. Thanks for sharing.

[@phillipchidester5739]

I love your video… do you know if the there is a connection of the body to the frame at the rear end of a 1980 C3 corvette that needs to be disconnected?

[@keiths9483]

Nice job. Thank you. Did the new mounts/shims correct the doors gaps?

[@AO-xr8mk]

Did you have any issues with mount #4? I was able to remove all of mine except both rear mounts, they just spin.

[@TheWhatisright]

Yes, I cut mine off and pulled it out with a magnet. Mine was very hard to get at. When I installed it, I put some fast drying silicon on the new nut and put the bolt in.

[@TheWhatisright]

The Nut Plate almost always breaks on #4. If it is spining the nut plate is broken. The only way to get it out is to cut the bolt from the bottom side and pull off the nut plate from the top side once cut with a magnet tool or something. I good dremel tool will cut the bolt with some work.

[@clima]

im planning to lift the body of my 1980 corvette in order to do a chasis and suspension restoration and this was a really helpful video. I have a couple of questions for you, if you don't mind: 1. Once you remove front frame bolts and the front body mounts attaching the front clip to the chasis, how is the front clip attached to the rest of the cage/body? 2. I noticed you have BILSTEIN shock absorbers, can you provide feedback and/ or comparison to other absorbers? Thanks for your video.

[@TheWhatisright]

+clima Clima, Thank you for taking time to view the video. Leave one side of the Body mounts installed. Just loosen the opposite side and but leave them attached. That way your clip does not sag. Support the front clip with a jack and some wood. I love the Bilstein shocks. The car ride is much smoother. At first I only ordered the rear Bilstein shocks. I liked them so much that I ordered and installed the front also. In additions, I tried to lift the body a few inches with the steering column installed but that did not work. That is why I showed removing the steering column blots in the video. In my view, the most difficult part was removing all the Body mounts. Mine were really rusted and had to take my time soaking them in penetrating oil. Good luck. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

[@clima]

Thank you for your response about the front clip and absorbers, really appreciate your time. I bought my corvette in Albuquerque NM, so my body mount bolts were extremely easy to remove and almost had no rust, with the exception of the LH front - that one was stripped but with no consequences. I have one more question: if I want to completely remove/lift off the front clip, I have already unbolted steering wheel, front frame bolts and the 2 front (LH & RH) body mounts. Is there any other bolt between front clip and cars cage and chasis so I can freely remove it? .

[@TheWhatisright]

+clima Keep in mind the front clip is clued/bonded. I think most people use a heat gun to soften the clue for removal. I have never removed a front clip. However, I would think the headlights need to be disconnected and fender well. On a 1969 - 1974 the crome bumber also need to be removed. In addition, and wiring of tubing the has a bricket connected to the front clip. Hear is a small video I found on KZbin. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4PMqmeEeaybodk

[@clima]

+TheWhatisright Hopcorvetteman once again, thank you ,really helpful information.

[@TheWhatisright]

You are welcome. My pleasure.

[@armonp7706]

Did you have to remove radiator/ radiator support entirely? And hood too?

[@ozzstars_cars]

nice job

[@benthleydorcin6160]

Looks great

[@1159Ironman]

I love your car. Last year I bought my dream car which is a 72 corvette convertible that I've wanted since I was 13. I would love to get advice from you on restoration as we don't have many decent corvette mechanics and painters in my area. Ive already dressed my engine up similar to yours. Is there anyway I could contact you?

[@TheWhatisright]

Sure, you can contact me at [e-mail]

[@jtssf1234]

Thanks for all your videos, they are helping me in so many ways. I am in the middle of a 1978 C3 restoration that had been sitting for 20+ years. ( it was in a very minor accident and just left alone in a garage) Everything is original including all the bushings and body mounts. Just wondering if there is enough "give" in the body to replace the body bushings without disconnecting all the components that you did in the video? Thanks, Jim

[@TheWhatisright]

Yes, but when I replaced each body mount I did it one at a time. I loosened all of them but would pull one completely out and replace it then move to the next.

[@jtssf1234]

@@TheWhatisright Thanks so much--will start them soon--Cheers, Jim

[@musclefactory8044]

Great tutorial. On my 68 Vette, the left (driver) side wheels (tires) appear to stick out of the fenders by an inch (both front and rear). On the right side the wheels are nicely tucked in and don't come out of the body. Is this a body alignment issue? Could the body be offset (parallel) to the left side that much? Should i verify the alignment holes position to be sure? Could it be something else? Thanks for answering..

[@TheWhatisright]

I would sure check the alignement. You should know that by just driving it and if it stays straight. Check your shims in your trailing arms. Also, see if you have an offset trailing arm. Strange the front and rear are off. Same size tires all around?

[@musclefactory8044]

@@TheWhatisright The car drives straight and has shims on the right rear trailing arm only. Same size tires and standard trailing arms.. I guess my question is, could i just check the alignment holes (body/frame) to see if it is a body alignment issue? Meaning, if the alignment holes match 100% it must be a different origin causing this offset, right? ..

[@PUMPKINMAN63]

Should never use cheep no grade bolts for a body they should be grade 8 bolts.. with the ones you used the body could snap off in an accident.

[@TheWhatisright]

Thank you friend for the input. I did use grade 8 bolts. It was a mean job do to the old rusted bolts and nuts.

[@roncarey1222]

I need to replace my fuel lines and I believe I have to lift the body to replace the lines. This would be an excellent time to also replace the body bushings. Do you have a video on replacing the fuel lines thank you.

[@scottwilson4079]

I just have a quick question, do you have a different suspension on the rear? It looks like one big spring instead of a pack of leaf springs. Beautiful car BTW!!!

[@TheWhatisright]

I changed out the rear leaf spring with Monosprings Composite several years ago. I got them from Eckler's Corvette part number 25-122865-1 for $358. I also have Bilstein Shocks on the rear and front. The rear Bilstein Shocks are part number is 25-122793-1 also from Eckler's Corvette for $134.99.

[@scottwilson4079]

CorvetteHop Do you find it’s a nicer ride now with the new spring and shocks?

[@Xantylon74]

Your Corvette looks really nice!

[@TheWhatisright]

Thank you.

[@hoytswinderman6295]

Hi there, I watched your body mount video. I broke the bolt on number 4 mount behind the right rear wheel on my 1978 Corvette. Did you have that problem? Fortunately the other side can be accessed from the inside under the rear stereo speaker. I might have to saw the nut mount.Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again

[@TheWhatisright]

+Hoyt Swinderman Hoyt, I cut one off with my drimmel. Use a magnet to pull from the top side once it is cut. I used some silicon to hold the nut in place and installed the bolt from the bottom up. I sure could tell the differance in the ride. Let me know if this helps.

[@myronnorth4878]

@@TheWhatisright u

[@AO-xr8mk]

Thanks for the help. I found the bolt from hell and it's no fun to reach. Especially since on the driver side it's just a square nut but on the passenger side the square nut is contained in a box that is fastened to the body. I guess I'll have to somehow cut the top of the metal box to get the nut out. The interesting thing is that I have yet to find a single shim on this car. Anyway, thanks again -- you've been a great help!

[@TheWhatisright]

Take your time with it and keep applying the liquid wrench fluid. I put it on my bolts for almost a week (twice a day).

[@AO-xr8mk]

How did you access the nut from the top side? I didn't think their was a way to reach that area.

[@TheWhatisright]

I pulled it out with a magnet. when I put it back in, I put a nail with of string (string tied to the middle of the nail) through the hole on the bottom side. Then I put a magnet tool from the top side and pulled the nail up (leave string long enough and accessible through the hole to pull the nut in place. Once I got the nail on the top side, I feed to through the nut (put a little silicon on the bottom on the Nut) then I pulled the string with the nut until it covered the hole. I could see the thread of the nut with a flash light looking up from the bottom side were the bolt will go). Once the silicon dried, I easy put the mounts and bolt in from the bottom side.

[@skyeking1]

You've put together a great video, great detail and visuals. I too have a 69 ragtop and have owned it since 1972. It's long overdue for some upgrades and maintenance and my questions in this regard are as follows: - I noticed you have a fiberglass rear spring, do you like it ? Any improvement on ride and handling? -Has the body mount replacement resulted in any change in height from the old mounts ? Has the ride improved using the poly vs rubber ?

[@TheWhatisright]

+skye king Skye, Great questions. Yes, the fiberglass leaf rear spring made a big difference to driving. I love them, plus it took about 10 pounds off the car weight. If you do decide on fiberglass leaf springs, do your research because some offer a stiffer ride than others. The old body mounts that where on the car were made of steel. I know that sounds strange, but that is how it was made in 1969 (steel body mounts). Not good for a comfort ride. I selected poly because poly was advertised as lasting longer than rubber. It does make for a very good ride with the new body mounts and fiberglass leaf springs. I do caution you on lifting the body (as mentioned several times in the video), be very careful that you do not put your fingers between the body and the frame when installing the body mounts. The wood or jack may fail and crush your fingers/hand. Use a long screw driver or something to put the mounts in place. Also, the most difficult body mount was the #4 body mounts (in the back). The bolts and nuts/washers are very difficult to get at with a convertible on the top end of the bolt. Also, very difficult to install. Best to take your time on the entire job and do it right.

[@TheWhatisright]

+TheWhatisright Hopcorvetteman Also, no difference in height from the old mounts. I made sure to put the exact shims in place when reinstalling (I drew a diagram on paper when I pulled the bolts and shims out). I also only did one side at a time so the body side back in the exact place when lowers. On the opposite side I only loosened the bolt heads to ensure flexibility. I also measured the thickness of the body mounts and shims. You are welcome to call me if you get in a bind or critical situation.

[@AO-xr8mk]

I'm assuming your windshield didn't crack when you lifted one of the sides?

[@TheWhatisright]

No, my windshield did not crack. I was very careful pulling the windshield out and installing it.

[@styga1969]

How high did you get the body off the frame. I have a 77 that needs a little frame work. Wondering if I can get the body high enough to repair. Thanks.

[@TheWhatisright]

No, I was only able to lift the body a few inches. Just high enough to change the body mounts. If you do frame work I would recommend lifting the body high enough and secure it. This is not a good method for doing frame work.

[@frankargain5792]

Corvette-restoration.com should have some plans for making a body lifting rig out of 2x4's. I've never done it and I don't know anything about it but I ran across one of their videos here on KZbin last week and thought you might be interested.

[@TheWhatisright]

Frank, are you planning on lifting the entire body off the car and pulling the frame away from it? I have seen a few body lifting rigs on KZbin with a hoist/chain. Very few lifting a corvette body. Corvette Hop

[@sbg5614]

Dommage que ce n'est pas en français , mais je devrais y arriver avec le sous titrage et google traduction sa devrait pouvoir marcher .

[@jfkdotcom]

Did you use the body mount shims to align your door gaps?

[@TheWhatisright]

I replaced the body mount shims with the same size and amount as the ones that I took off.

[@AO-xr8mk]

I'm planning on doing the same on my 70. On mine I have metal spacers -- no shims that I can see. Should I keep the spacers in place when I install the new mounts?

[@TheWhatisright]

Mine had metal body mounts. But it still had shims. I would keep the spacers in place. Maybe the spacers are in place as shims. If you do discover there are shims make sure you replace them with the exact size. The shims are hard to see and most can not be seem until the car is in the air.

[@TheWhatisright]

I was just thinking. Does any of your spacers look like the hardware in the video at location 3:46 in the video?

[@AO-xr8mk]

Yes, did you reuse yours?

[@TheWhatisright]

I think what you are seeing is part of the body mounts (not spacers). Those are metal body mounts with shims in the video.

[@bentaddeo7543]

Thanks for the video Dwayne-- Did you use a particular torque spec to tighten the body mounts?

[@TheWhatisright]

Trust Me I'm a Lawyer You are welcome. I enjoy helping others when I can. Now that is a great question. The tech data (AIM) mentioned 25 Ft Lbs after roll test. So what I did was, torque at 25 Ft Lbs (with a standard Ft Lbs Torque Wrench), drive the car some so the mounts can seat into position. I then rechecked the tourque values (all 8 body mounts) to make sure it is still 25 Ft Lbs. Does this answer your question to satisfaction?

[@bentaddeo7543]

It sure does--thanks!

[@TheWhatisright]

Trust Me I'm a Lawyer I will see if I can add the torque value information to the video. Thank you for the comments.

[@johncarlson9999]

I just came across your videos. Love them. I have a 1980 L82. Been in the family since brand new. Car has been cared for over the years. This video of yours briefly scans the kick panel at 2:05 and a little later. I have a question about the kick panel (I can't really find much discussion on the purpose of this compartment)... I decided to redo all interior carpet. I was expecting some rust on the floor pan - and to my surprise, only minor rust there but I think I will have a body shop replace both floor pans before I put in the new carpet. BUT to my shock, I found significant rust and collapse of what I will call the forward panel within the kick panel compartment. Basically, the forward part of that box is gone - on both passenger and driver's side!! I don't know the extent to which I need this to be fixed. Of course, I need all the adjacent rust cut out - but not sure how much of that interior kick panel compartment really matters to the integrity of the body. The body mount in there looks ok. The upper part of that compartment (that connects to the door) looks unaffected by the rust. The kick panel box area is obviously built in such a way that it is a self contained compartment - but why? If I have the forward panel, and other affected rusted areas, cut out and NOT replaced, will that have any material effect on the integrity of the body? I am wondering if the doors should be removed and that whole compartment be rebuilt (not sure if one can buy an aftermarket compartment). Hope this makes sense. Happy to send pics if that helps your visualization of the issue. Appreciate any direction or comments you might have. I just want to be better informed before directing the body shop do their work - as I am not expecting to find anyone with experience directly with older Corvettes. Thanks!

[@TheWhatisright]

John, have the body shop look at the birdcage area. Normally, major rust forward of the front body mounts (in the kick panel area) are signals of birdcage rust. Yes, please send me photos. This video shows some of the rust in the bird cage area. If you do have large amounts of rust in the bird cage area I recommend you get it repaired which can be a significant repair and costly.

[@johncarlson9999]

It's been a couple of months and the car is now finally in the shop. Of course, found even more rust when they hoisted it up. Here I am trying to figure out how to send you the pictures and possibly video of the severity of the rust. Can't find an email address for you...or figure out how to post it for you to access...How can I get these to you?

[@TheWhatisright]

John, you can send it to [e-mail]. I will look for the pics in the email.

[@johncarlson9999]

Thanks! Just sent it. CorvetteHop

[@TheWhatisright]

I will look at it now.

[@wilbertbenjamin]

great vid, but will this put enough pressure to push my brake pedal up to the place it was before

[@TheWhatisright]

Wilbert, I am not sure what you mean. Can you please clarify.

[@wilbertbenjamin]

1972 corvette, I put on new pads and rotors and pumped my brake but my pedal doesn't come all the way back up, I like the way you breed it, but will my pedal rise back to it's orig location

[@wilbertbenjamin]

Ps: make more corvette repair vids!!!

[@TheWhatisright]

wilbert williams Wilbert, it should rise to the original location. Do you have any play from the top end of the pedal and when it engages? It should be hard with very little play in the pedal. Sorry I was a little confused, because your question was listed under the Corvette body mounts video. Not sure how that happened. LOL

[@wilbertbenjamin]

No I just have to push the brake all the way down and it hits the floor, could you also do vids on my driving lights that come up when the want to now and my wind shield wiper vent doesn't come up anymore the car sat in a heated garage for nine yrs before i bought it and everything worked great before i bought it, I love this car it's my mid life crisis dream

[@Ledberg]

you need to put some effort in camera focus.

[@TheWhatisright]

Thank for the input.

[@Ledberg]

otherwise, good and informative. I wish you could inform about how to align with shims too

[@TheWhatisright]

Thank you. I have a video on the rear wheel alignment with shims. But not on body shims because I just removed and replaced with the same shims. The rear wheel alignment is not an easy job but I have one of the only videos on how to do it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4qwaoWtmM2am5Y Enjoy.

[@Ledberg]

Thank you. Here is my 69: www.stingray.nu

[@TheWhatisright]

OMG, I love that. I was on one of the first C-130 Aircraft into Afghan after 911 and received two bronze stars during tours. Love the red/white and blue. Very nice car. Thanks for sharing. I would love to post a few photos of your car after my next video if you would not mined. Thanks for sharing. If you do not mind me posting a few pics of your car please send the photos you like to [e-mail].