Thank you. Very informative video.

Well Done and thanks..,,,picking up a 2013 GS Friday

You set initial and then total but never went back and showed the initial again. why didn't the initial change when you moved the distributer for the total adjustment?

Mine went inside and can’t get it out 😢

I think I have watched almost all of your videos, but this one is probably the best. I have struggled with the hood on my 72 since I took it off to replace the engine. I could get it to close but it was really hard to get open. I have an alignment tool like the one you showed except it was 3D printed. Your explanation of how the hood aligns was excellent and really shows this is a 3D problem. Even if you get the lines correct down the sides and front of the hood by getting the hinges in the correct position that is no guarantee that the hood latches are correct. My big question was the taller intake on the new engine impinging on the hood , was the new thicker weatherstripping on the hood holding it open or was there a problem with latch alignment. Your idea of removing the latches to see where the hood would be in a closed position really helped. I could easily push the hood down fully with the latches out of the way, therefore it had to be malalignment of the latches. Even using the alignment tool it “looked “ like everything was correct, but on further close inspection it turned out that the passenger side latch was off by less than an eighth of an inch. The cause was the mount for the electric windshield door motor I had previously installed to get rid of the vacuum system was not allowing the latch to come over completely. Grinding off less than an eighth of an inch on the hood latch solved the problem. Now the hood works perfectly. I have been driving around for the last two months trying to solve the problem, but with your help all is well. My big fear was that it took so much force to open the hood previously that I would break the release cable. After having the hood stick shut once and having to use the technique that Corvette Ben described to release it, I would rather get poked in the eye with a sharp stick than go through that again. Thanks again, your videos are well done and much appreciated.

Meh

didn't work for me

Thank you from Germany👍

Nice video, nice car.. I wish to share my years of experience with Chevy V8.. These comments are not meant to criticize anyone elses methods or procedures. This is just what I have learned over the years.. - Many comments here are confused that first it is set for initial timing, then changes it again for the total timing. I think he is setting the initial timing for a first start up after the distributor has been removed or disturbed. The most important timing is total timing as he demonstrated. For me, when starting an engine for the first time, I just rotate the distributor as someone is cranking it with the key to get it to fire up, then warm it up and move on to adjust the total timing somewhere in the mid to high 30s. Skipping the initial timing adjustment is just a preference. - Its best to clamp the inductive pickup clamp of the timing light closest to the spark plug and not near the distributor cap. Closer to the plug gives more realistic spark arrival at the cylinder as it does take time for the spark to travel through the plug wire. - I don't trust those adjustable timing lights. Many have given false or distorted readings. You are better off using timing tape or preferably a balancer with the scale stamped in it. Summit Racing has a selection of timing tape and balancers. - I made a pre-fabricated piece of metal to wedge into the idle screw stop to create a fast-idle. Fabricate the wedge to hold the fast idle at around 3000 RPM. This will free up one hand and allow you to focus on the task at hand. With the engine noise, heat and fan air blowing at you, you need both hands and brain free from distractions. - The total timing is different for many, but should be somewhere in the mid-high 30s. The variables include cam shaft, fuel delivery, octane and fuel type which may contain ethanol.. - I found the best way to find the optimum total timing is to start with it into the high 30s until it pings under load while driving under acceleration. Back down the total timing a degree at a time until the ping goes away. This will be the sweet spot. My big-block 454 likes it at 37 degrees.. Small block chevys with the smaller bore piston will come in around the mid 30s. - Because of ethanol fuel which burns hotter, I use a 160 degree thermostat. The lower temp reduces ping and allows more total timing. Also, to keep it cooler, I use as much aluminum components on the engine... ie radiator, water pump, intake etc... Ethanol fuel has really challenged these engines to run properly. The old Chiltons manuals give initial timing setting at idle which is essentially useless with todays fuel and any engine mods that it may have as described above. Total timing should be the focus. I hope this helps someone.. Again, not to criticize or claim 100 percent. Just from years of experience. 👍✌

It did not work for us nooo

I don't have a Vette but I'm helping a friend replace her bulb and this video is incredibly well done! Thank you for putting the time and effort into it. It is much appreciated!

York pa

Great video buddy thanks for onfo

Appreciate your thorough videos and explanations. THANKS ! ! !

Darn you chipped off the paint! Other than now having to repaint everything. Great job.

Great Video. Thank you!!

Timing advanced 20degree with vacuum advance takes it35to 38advanced with foot in it

36degrees without vacuum advance.thats the way i did it.am i wrong do tell

Seating timing at 36degree with out vacuum advance.to me seams to much.vacuum ad Vance pulls it 15to18dregees is that not to much that would be 50plus advanced with foot in it.right or not

That steering column components are not even close to a 69 column to should say this video is for a mid 70s car .huge difference

please review the terms you're using. TDC is not the perfect combustion position.. It merely is the location of the crankshaft and other components attached to it. Camshaft via gear or chain, and the valve train and the position of the valves (Closed), and finally the distributor and rotor/cap pointing directly at #1 cylinder. 36 is not optimal for every engine, as detonation could occur if too much advance timing is used and possibly damage your engine. just saying...This video will confuse the hell out of someone who knows a little, but those who don't know anything at all will find it very helpful. An engine tuner will laugh out loud, seriously it is that bad.

I performed your method as described. after dropping idle back down. checked the initial timing- w/o vacuum advance`. found initial now to be at 20 degree. Reconnected vacuum and attempted starting- found hard cranking. If I readjust base to start easy- the total will be out. HMmmm???

Mine don’t work doing it this way smh

Do you have the Russell balled valves on your car.

How much did you pay for the upgrade? I’m wanting to know if I can upgrade the module for the navigation on our 2014 Corvette. Any 15 and newer has the optional PDR as long as you have GPS. Which are 2014 has GPS but no PDR.

Very informative great job sir

Having the same problem and that simple fix works but i have to reset it each time. Looks like I'll be changing a circuit board!

Thanks, but didn't work for me. Tried the hairdryer trick too. Still no. It turns on, but beeps funny and doesn't start.

Do you know how the Wiper Door Actuator Vacuum Relay is supposed to function correctly? I believe I have a good wiper arm vacuum valve and actuator. When I turn the car on, the wiper cowling opens up. Thanks.

It works but I have to do this every time

Worked awsome! Thank you!

Thank you this video was very helpful!

You have to have Tru tdc marks or non of this will work

Solid, simple, straightforward tutorial. You simplified a process i was hating... having someone sit INSIDE the car and pump the brakes. Gravity bleeding is the way to go.

Thank you for a very detailed and informative video. Beautiful car by the way.

Dont understand why initial is just on TDC while it should be on 10-12 degrees in my case?

Great video !!! Step by step exactly what needed 👌🏽

Awesome video. Used it as a guide to change out both headlight lamps in my 2014 Stingray!

When bleeding the REAR brake calipers, do you only need to do the outside bleeder valve or should you do both top valves? Thanks.

its the same for an 81 but the 81 has high beams in the turn signal switch. some idiot broke off the turn signal lever. now i dont have turn signal nor high beams.

That was a very poor example,terrible explanation.

Excellent video as well as step by step instructions. Thanks for sharing.

Excellent appreciate the string clarification

Thank you,thank you,thank you. You saved me a lot of money 🎉

Did not work for me.

6 second unplugged 2 button push trick reset my Kenmore washer to working condition👍

thank you for this video. by far the most complete instructions. used this on changing my tensioner and belt on my 2014 stingray. very helpful!!!! again thanks!

I've watched many of your videos and found them very helpful. What I like about your videos is you show every detail on what you are doing. I need to replace the turn signal switch on my 1972 as one side doesn't cancel and the horn is not working. Keep up the great work.

Hi! Which manufacturer windshield did you use? What was a thickness of it? Oem is 9/32. That's importent to sit it corretly using a foam tape thinkness you had used. Thanks

Great video - Did you tuck the harness behind the wiper motor or under, along top of where the engine meets the trans?