How to rebuild your C3 Corvette headlight actuators

This video shows step by step how to rebuild your headlight actuators on your C3 Corvette. Feel free to share this with every C3 owner that you know!

[@gizzmo5952]

I watched this video 2 or 3 times. Then, I went out and replaced my 74 vettes relays and rebuilt the actuators. I also replaced the switch. Switch didn't have the vacume lines. Works like a charm now, thanks Ben!

[@rsWez2000]

Would just like to say thank you for making this video, just repaired my actuator seals by follows this video, it was great help and saved me the extra cost of buying new actuators. thanks from Wes in the UK cheers

[@michaeltaylor5112]

Excellent job. This is a problem for almost all of us C3 owners. I was looking at new actuators. Forget that! I can rebuild mine. Thank you very much!

[@lindley345]

great video. now I can rebuild my 81 corvette headlights.

[@jdeal42460]

Thank you for sharing how to fix the lights. When I purchased my 79 Vette. I knew things would stop working ( 40 + yr old car) I didn't know how hard it was going to be to find a garage to work on my car. I was forced to start doing repairs myself. Again many thanks Jim Deal Fort Wayne IN

[@BadHammers]

Rebuilt mine today. Not having to get out and help the left light up anymore is going to be great. Thanks for the video!

[@jonsegasture7578]

I followed this guide for rebuilding the actuator on my ‘79 and it went really smooth. The only Bubba was the the shaft had been broke at one time and someone tackwelded a bolt to the end of it so we had to get the seal and the boot over the bolt head with soapy water.

[@rogerlee3941]

I have a '75 Vette and have had to do this same repair. I found that the actuators are easily removed by removing the grill and pulling them out through there. That way you don't run the risk of scratching the hood.

[@TheCorvetteBen]

+Roger Lee Another good tip!

[@mwdunn3]

Thanks for the video. The lights on my 75 were always lazy but finally gave it up. You saved me about $75 compared to total actuator replacement. I did figure out that there are indentations on both sides of the actuators that allow that last hair of clearance needed to remove & install. I also used blue painter's tape on the hood for scratch insurance. They're still a little on the lazy side so I'll be replacing the inline filter & check valve when they arrive.

[@zipperhead70]

Thank you. Just did this on my 71' Stingray. Great job on the video!

[@spdlee]

Thanks for the video.. I just rebuilt my actuators and both head lights are working fine. If I may add one thing, it's easier to remove and put the actuators back if you close the hood and use the front grill hole. ^^

[@houseofno]

A couple of other options is to use 3rd or 4th gen Fbody Firebird headlight actuators or use C5 Corvette actuators. On some older systems, chasing vacuum leaks via leaky hoses can be a hair-wrenching nightmare. Thanks for a grear video!

[@marioiacolucci]

There is a show called classic car rescue that did this Corvette

[@superstarmj1]

You just saved me $100!! Just replaced my rubber boot....Headlights up and strong! Thanks Much!!

[@marccaruso9789]

Cool...I need to check if that's the issue with mine...

[@russellmcelreath7918]

Nicely done Ben, very helpful as I’m body-off my 78 silver anniversary.

[@hernanmendoza8631]

Thanks for the video. Gave me the info I needed to get started on my 81. Will be starting the project soon.

[@ssdtrain1]

Brah !! I don't even know if I need these yet, but I ordered some because you made it look so easy, and I was thinking about buying the whole thing until this video !! nice work !!

[@TherealDeltaEcho]

Thank you very much, It is videos like these than make owning a Corvette so much more enjoyable. So let me just add one more bit of advice. After disconnecting the hood support and propping the hood up, place a large box or inner tube or something along the wiper trough to stop the fall of the hood if the stick breaks or kicks out (like it did to me on another project). The weight of that hood falling could do considerable damage to fingers.

[@sondabrown7373]

Love all of your videos, Ben!!!

[@tommyblevens3637]

Great vid man! This is what I needed!! Appreciate it very much!

[@bstew4841]

Awesome Video, my headlights are working great now.

[@Skipsul]

You ought to mention that a Mityvac pump can diagnose your issue before you go taking things apart. The vacuum relays are the other usual big culprit, and while one of my actuators was definitely leaky, the relays (both in my case) were the major fault source. One would stick in the pull up position, the other in the pull down. Replaced both, resealed one actuator, and all is working like new.

[@TheCorvetteBen]

+James Sullivan That is how I diagnosed my headlights, those were just the last part. I did use a vacuum pump and plan on making a whole video on trouble shooting everything

[@MrFang333333]

TheCorvetteBen I hope you do this. Working on vacuum issues now

[@MetaphysicalChris]

hey buddy... good video, Great car I am a technician and I appreciate your video. Well filmed and clear. Thank You.

[@davidphillips7431]

Thanks Ben, exactly what I needed to know…👍🏻

[@droidb5464]

Just bought a c3 and it's in excellent condtion except for the headlights not poping up, so this will help a lot thanks

[@sterlingdavis6096]

Thanks for the video. Very helpful

[@jasonmendonca6061]

Thanks for the video, I just fixed mine last night

[@TheWhatisright]

Nice job on the video. Thank you.

[@mijohnst]

Thanks for taking the time. :)

[@swann747]

Worked well for me, took my time and split seal was the problem. Was advised not to use any kind of lubricant to install the new seal as this allows the seal to come out by itself later. Reused the retaining ring.

[@davidphillips7431]

Thanks Ben, exactly what I needed to know….

[@charlesdyer2376]

Engine sounds great Ben.

[@TheCorvetteBen]

+Charles Dyer I am glad someone watched it all the way through!

[@rea8755]

Outstanding! Thank you.

[@tracktoys9269]

This is great! thx for this!

[@dtmcarpetcleaningmachinetr2998]

good video .i just bought 1977 c3 corvette and my has these problem too..i will get fixed, thanks

[@streetmachinehead]

Very helpful video, convinced me to take a stab at rebuilding as opposed to replacing the actuator....Success!!!! And now that they are working, i'll probably even forget about converting to one of the electric kits.....for a while atleast. One thing i will add, and noticed some others have even already mentioned......If you have nice paint on your hood, and a factory ac condensor...get a buddy to help and spend the extra 15 mins. to R&I the hood. Can't tell if your car in the vid has a condesor or not, but my car has both nice paint and the condensor, and the actuator was NOT gonna come out without doing damage. Thanks for the video.

[@TheCorvetteBen]

+streetmachinehead you can also remove the actuator out through the grill openings

[@streetmachinehead]

+TheCorvetteBen may try that if i ever need to rebuild the other side in the future.....probably just a matter of time, right? haha

[@TheCorvetteBen]

Usually is only a matter of time for sure. Also if they do not come up together than try replacing the vacuum relays and that should fix that problem

[@laikeo5437]

thank you so much I need to chenge my corvette 79 head light actuators soon

[@baggins1]

Great DIY vid! Thanks

[@johnsecreto6651]

Thanks very helpful.

[@srad-eq4ut]

you are creative bro I learned a lot in easy way. I used to have 1973 corvette that made me sick at that time. Well, basically I tried all replacement things to make the headlight works, but nothing help me at all because I have a cam shift that cause that problem. Till I and my cousin find out a solution which is electric vacuum that work via swish inside the car, it's a long story :) any way I need the parts name if you do not mind or a link to buy them :) I wanna do this on my new 1970 vette thanks again for this video

[@regmartin688]

Great video.

[@MrKrazybean]

Awesome… I will do this. Great video thank you!!!! Lastly, where did you order the kit? Thanks!

[@bkuker]

We just did this the other day. We found that it was impossible to move the actuator to the center of the space, I think the radiator for the AC takes up too much space. Here is the trick: Unbolt the actuator with the hood CLOSED, and reach up from underneath and move it into that central lower area before opening the hood. Be vary careful opening the hood that it clears the actuator, but there is plenty of room. Remove it from above, rebuild it, put it back in the center, close the hood, and then reach up and maneuver it back into place. First one took us half an hour to figure this out, second one was out rebuilt and back in, in 5 minutes.

[@gok_alp6344]

Good job, thanks much.

[@fleetwin1]

Great to say you spending time with my favorite vette that you own! I was confused at first, but think I understand now. There must be TWO vacuum lines on each actuator, one line lifts the headlights, the other one pulls them back down. Needless to say, you are SOL if the inner diaphragm is broken, correct?

[@Skipsul]

Yes, if the inner diaphragm is bad, you will have to replace the thing, though I know some who have cut them open, replaced the innards, and soldered it all back together. The relay feeding the actuator is what actually directs the vacuum to the lift or lower ports, so if that is clogged or rotted, then that may have to go too. If your lights go up, even when not on, you could have a bad relay.

[@fleetwin1]

+James Sullivan OK, thanks for that info! I noticed that Ben's light popped up when he started the car, perhaps his relay is funky as well. One more question- Doesn't seem like the headlights can be raised/lowered unless the engine is running due to lack of vacuum, is this correct?

[@donsmith3167]

@@fleetwin1 The reservoir should hold enough vacuum to raise and lower lights with out engine supplying vacuum, but that said quite often the reservoir has leaks(Rust Holes) or the relay has gone bad. Simple system but lots of places that cause headaches..

[@christopherloureiro6197]

Nice video, even though your head was in the way a few time - lol - I followed it no problem and completed the repair in less than an hour - no painting. Thank you very much, looking forward to seeing your trouble shooting next.

[@mskmsk7174]

Thank you very much.

[@MrSteveCasper]

Thank You! I just bought a 77 today and the headlights wont go up but they will go down when you turn the lights off.

[@roadrunner1911]

YOURE AWESOME

[@sqr2024]

I found removing my headlights very easy on my 71 by removing the grills and completely dismantling the assembly. The frame and the stripped door will pull right out through the front of the grill opening. No chips in the paint was experienced.

[@TheTonysaavedrA]

Awesome super helpful :)

[@sabufinisher]

man c3s are pain in the ass to work with but entertainment at the same time

[@michaelmaravigli3871]

Love it...I'm doing it

[@that_thing_I_do]

So on my first vette,the right hand light would pop up when I turned the engine off. So I'd restart the car and the light would reset (closed).Was that bad seals in that case? Left hand side was fine.

[@johnmangrum8910]

How do you stretch the springs to get them back on the bracket after you install your actuators?

[@zimo1978]

thank you for the great explanation and the Video which you shared. is it possible to share us where you have bought these rubber units? thank you Zimo

[@TheCorvetteBen]

ebay

[@kennyd7748]

Hate to be the party spoiler, can you tell me how to make them stay down ?

[@donsmith3167]

@@kennyd7748 If they won't go down but go up then the diaphragm may be blown or the reservoir may be leaking and no vacuum is held.

[@shanepowers7566]

Thanks

[@Creed4222]

Recently got a 76 Stingray and my passenger side headlight was coming up really slow, so my father pulled up on the headlight and now it wont go down. What could cause this?

[@TheHamlinHooker1]

Thank you

[@noneoyabeesneez]

hopfully one of you in the comments might know, but i have a 80 corvette and the last owner managed to bend both rear bumper impact absorber. is there any other car/truck that uses the same one?

[@ColonelJohnmatrix1000]

Hello, my pop up headlights on my c3 are stuck. One is a stuck halfway down, the other fully up. How man turns on the rods do you start with?

[@johnkizzlr9071]

Is there a trick to getting the pin out?

[@eduardoperez7797]

I’d like to see all the hose system I just purchase a 79 and lights are just stuck in the up position have no idea where to start need help thanks for the video

[@benbencorvair9071]

My 76 had the headlights in the up position too, what I did is I went under the head lights and with a screw driver I pulled down on the elbow. Hoped this help, if you need more info just let me know

[@circleh5173]

My light on dash stays on it’s red they say I need to adjust head light how

[@bobo6263]

great video ! i have an 1980 vette and the car horn does not work. any videos on this problem ?

[@TheCorvetteBen]

Usually it is the parts underneath the horn button. 9 times out of ten something under there has broken.

[@bobo6263]

Thanks Ben, your videos are a great learning tool. Whats next in the Vette series ?

[@71plymouth.]

Hmm,I uploaded a C3 Corvette wipeout video and saw this in the suggestions... I hope my headlight doors on my 70 Charger are still in good operation.

[@discerningmind]

Good vid! Thank you. Will a vacuum leak at the actuator system cause the engine to run bad?

[@TheCorvetteBen]

+discerningmind I guess that it would, but it wouldn't be anything too crazy

[@goodboyringo9716]

+discerningmind wiper door and headlight doors work on intake manifold vacuum and if there is a leak it does affect idle and engine performance.

[@GarthThomson]

It shouldn’t cause a vacuum leak at engine if the small metal check valve (one way valve) with two up near the filter off the left side of the Carby is working. It has one vacuum hose in and two out off it.

[@donsmith3167]

@@TheCorvetteBen can cause lots of problems, worse burnt valves from to lean of gas/air mixture. "SHOULD BE NO LEAKS IN ANY VACUUM LINES PERIOD"

[@carmont9597]

need a link to place were to buy this staff for rebuild

[@curtbrowning1390]

Would have been good to see how you removed and then reconnected the springs but the rest was very good.

[@eduardodoilin8951]

Where are you able to find the pieces you used on this video tutorial? what pieces does it need?

[@TheCorvetteBen]

+Eduardo Doilin ebay is where I bought mine. Just search " c3 corvette actuator rebuild kit"

[@justinshay5798]

My light's don't go up or down and after searching for a vacuum leak I haven't found anything on the lines. So I was just dealing with lifting them up manually but now the light on the passenger side won't go down all the way?? Its stuck up about 2" I can't figure out how to fix it. Any Idea what could be going on?

[@pistoncarsandparts]

Hello, where from to buy new rubber seals?

[@kiesha104]

I just inherited a 1977 .... gotta track down a title,...ugh. How avaliable are parts at this point? I need a rear bumper and misc stuff.....

[@jeremymcnicol9585]

👍

[@v84u2nv]

On a side note...removal is a bit tighter on C3 with A/C.

[@HeyTheirStranger]

Do you have ac in this car? Couldn’t really tell from the video. I just tried doing it this way and it seems to be impossible do to the ac condenser.

[@TheCorvetteBen]

I have done it with a condenser in place. A tip is to shut the hood and then take the actuator out the bottom.

[@HeyTheirStranger]

TheCorvetteBen wow thanks for the speedy reply. I was pretty much convinced I’d need to pull more stuff off to get the actuator out. With the hood shut I could push it all the way out. I then rolled it towards the middle of the car. I used a pole to lift the hood slightly more but didn’t unbolt it. From the middle of the car it clears.

[@rebelrobz]

great video. I am sure I will need to do this one day. So did this resolve your issue?

[@TheCorvetteBen]

Gotta watch until the end of the video to know!!

[@rebelrobz]

+TheCorvetteBen Haa, awesome. I swore I did watch the entire video. I was not sure how you were going to install that new boot/seal until you removed that lug with the vice. Good job CorvetteBen.

[@GarthThomson]

Ben or anyone here know why my right headlight doesn’t want to go down when I turn them off? It will after a while.... sometimes 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@juanmacareno408]

How can I find out what's the problem on my corvette they don't lift at all it's a 1980

[@Diamond_Fever]

So basically I have to push up my headlights manually. But when I hit the switch the lights themselves turn on and when I turn the switch off they don’t go back down. Is that simply the actuators?

[@michaelstratton6701]

That's what mine do, I have a 1980,just wondering also

[@donsmith3167]

@@michaelstratton6701 yes or massive vacuum leaks.

[@SH-rm4gw]

Im guessing there is an internal diaphram that you are not changing, and likely cant be changed. do you ever find that the interna diaphram has failed

[@TheCorvetteBen]

I always test them, but have yet to find a bad one. I'm sure someone somewhere has found one

[@donsmith3167]

Had Two bad ones for the diaphrams on my 79.

[@obbzerver]

Good video - however.... others have probably already mentioned it - WD40 is not penetrating oil! It sucks for that use. Get PB Blaster or Kroil. PB is available at any auto parts store and Walmart, you might have to order Kroil.

[@Ryukachoo]

Are electric actuator conversions work it? Seems to make them unbreakable and pop up/down much faster

[@tictocpops1_276]

Where did you purchase the rubber boots from

[@TheCorvetteBen]

Ebay

[@donsmith3167]

www.zip-corvette.com/68-82-headlight-actuator-repair-kit.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw64eJBhAGEiwABr9o2EL1vG71WILKIg7UK-DWVb3SKj3D16mziKMbRv_KDzIKzTDjxYhIthoCEk0QAvD_BwE

[@alex9654m]

where do you find parts?

[@TheCorvetteBen]

for this specific video? ebay

[@layneh4919]

On my 73 corvette, the left headlight makes a loud bang sound about 2 seconds after the headlights go up. It sounds like someone hitting a brake rotor with a hammer, it’s so loud and I have no idea what the culprit could be. And as soon as the bang happens, the light inside the car telling me that the head lamps are on turns off, yet the lights stay on. I have absolutely zero idea what it could be or what is making that sound

[@TheCorvetteBen]

Lid is catching on the surround

[@MrFang333333]

HUGE TIP AND SAFETY HELP!!!!!!!!: Guys I am undertaking this job now and first off I must say it is horrid. Absolute hell. You will find that the springs will be your worst enemy. I know why Ben here is missing a spring, most likely because the thing shot off to nowhere. If your C3 is anything like mine you will find these springs to be absolutely impossible. SO BIG TIP. Ties your springs down with strong heavy string (I'm using weed wacker string). The first 2 shot off and created several hours of lost time searching for them. THEY CAN GO ANYWHERE. The velocity on these things are astounding. They are rusty and SHARP like everything in this job, not a good idea to let flying around your face. It will become apparent that Chevy clearly had little or no intention for people to work on these things. This job is pure hell and I just got done rebuilding and ultra-sonically cleaning the Rochester. I'm not sure this job will get completed as I am replacing the relays as well (ANOTHER MAJOR CULPRIT IN HEADLIGHT ENGINE PROBLEMS). The relay holder bolt head broke so now this has vastly more complications. A lot of this hardware I found to be lacking in either quality or forethought for future maintenance. If your like me, be prepared to have your car inactive for a week.

[@MrFang333333]

People I retract my statement. AVOID this job completely. I am now 3 days in and gave still not bolted in the actuators, nor fixed the broken head on the relays. Now the "bars" that bolt in to the actuators no longer line up. I have 0 clue at this point how this is going to be fixed. There is no reason for theses bars not to not line up but they don't. I haven't even gotten to the hard part of dealing with the Tetanus springs. It is worth $1000 dollars to avoid this job. Seriously, you get lucky and have 0 problems but if you run into ANY snags, you are REALLY gonna be in a world of hurt. If it wasn't for a major vacuum leak I would have never done this. Also plan on getting another mechanic after you give him this job. I guarantee he/she will refuse to work on your car after this.

[@MrFang333333]

Day 4: The 20th time trying to reseat the actuator has finally done a number on the paint job. Ben's recommendation on undoing the hood bolts is Very much neccessary, however even with the added room the paint and fiberglass has STILL taken a hit. (The first 10 times I tried install it was unmarred now its scratch fest). As it turns out, those thread bolts on the actuator itself are not solid and somehow the thread-bolt bent...then when trying to straighten it BROKE! OMG those 4 threads on the actuator are actually held on to the housing by 3 TINY CIRCUIT LIKE WELDS (could even be glue). Luckily I have some JB Weld metal stick left over. I JB Welded the **** the out of that mother. I hope it holds, however compared to what Chevy had holding those bolt threads on ANYTHING would be stronger. As for the bars that thread onto the bolts I was forced to buy a Dremel and SLOWLY widen the thread holes at very uncomfortable angles. Did I mention I'm getting back surgery? For real. Anyway even with the car jacked up the working room is crap. Finally we come to the broken relay bolt. I have no idea how thats going to come out. Being upside down and tiny it makes drilling accurately nearly if not entirely impossible. I refuse to have the Relay just being held on by vacuum hoses. No to mention those cheap relays are hella expensive. I am fairly certain my issues were always with the relays. Which should have been a really easy job except Chevy in no way used parts meant to hold up for 50 years without becoming rust buckets...Especially if your car was in a car rusting state like ARIZONA most its life. I could only imagine what a Michigan Vette looks like...

[@MrFang333333]

Day 5: Well all is back in except the relays....They are zip tied in there until I can find a shop to remove 2 simple but rusted in mounting bolts. So...for the first time since I owned the car the lights open and close! For over a decade they were stuck open. I would be lying if I didn't say I haven't spent at least an hour opening and closing the lights. Its a whole new car...So the final verdict: First DO NOT slack on this! BUY the RELAYS as well!!! $80-$100 for both. Buy the OVERHAUL hose kit from Zip's $100 and DON'T stop there BUY heat shielding from Heat shield products FOR EVERY hose $50??. Listen. You CAN do just the actuators but I could not imagine doing all this work and having them not work properly due to hoses or relays...I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH RELAYS MAY CAUSE THE SAME ISSUES! In fact my actuators seemed to be OK despite the holes and rubber hanging on by a thread and odds are you will have to replace the relays and hoses anyway not too far down the road. Just get it ALL done and over with!! The relays were literally falling apart rusted like a shipwreck. I rather just spend my hours replacing instead of diagnosing, especially when after 40-50 years these things are all hanging by a thread. So there you have it, its possible...They sure are SO cool when they work!!!

[@TheCorvetteBen]

great job!

[@LukeAshlocke]

whats the psart number or whwere did you get it?

[@donsmith3167]

www.zip-corvette.com/68-82-headlight-actuator-repair-kit.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw64eJBhAGEiwABr9o2EL1vG71WILKIg7UK-DWVb3SKj3D16mziKMbRv_KDzIKzTDjxYhIthoCEk0QAvD_BwE

[@marissejans6247]

Hi Ben , can I call you? I am in Europe - England and Latvia. C3 1981 and 1979. Many thanks. Maris

[@TheCorvetteBen]

feel free to email me at [e-mail]

[@ToriL97]

why not take the hood off so you don't have to worry about scratching it?

[@TheCorvetteBen]

+SuperDjguy That is a good idea, but I was by myself for this repair. That is much easier to do with two people!

[@DavidPlass]

+SuperDjguy +1. I'd be afraid to get my hand chopped off if that painter's pole slipped...

[@JerryFowlerTV]

+David Plass haha, i don't think you'd have to worry about that c3 hoods are really light.

[@TriodeLuvr]

I appreciate your effort in publishing this, but boogering the shaft surface with the vise jaws was a Bubba move. A couple short strips of 1/8" aluminum angle hung over the jaws would have prevented the damage. Also, it doesn't make sense to risk an expensive paint job for this. A few minutes spent applying blue masking tape to the hood will eliminate that "Oh F***" moment.

[@bonnivilleblackcherry9745]

aluminum woud mar the surface as well or would not have the holding force needed in a lot of cases with these older cars. Been there done that. But a set of smooth steel jaws wood work wonders. As for his paint. He more or less said his car hood was not painted so not a worry but he did warn others if it was a concern for them.

[@chevyheavy]

You do realize there is a larger diaphragm in the canister that why you replace them

[@TheCorvetteBen]

Incorrect. The larger diaphragm is there but is almost never the reason why the pods go bad. I’ve rebuild more than 50 and never have seen one needing replaced

[@donsmith3167]

@@TheCorvetteBen I had 2 but then that's been my luck on this Beast. lol

[@davidkornblatt991]

Go Electric