How to Install Gears in a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Dana 44 (Detailed!)

Another gear setting video. This provides a little more detail than past videos.
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Last updated: May 11, 2023

[@kpfalconi]

Hey Mike, Just wanted to take a minute to say thank you for all your content you put out. After about 80 hours of studying, reading and watching videos (like yours) I took the plunge and successfully regeared my jeep myself. Your videos and break-downs were extremely helpful. Just wanted to tip my hat to you, you’re a great teacher and I love your videos.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Thank you for the kind words! I enjoy doing it.

[@ChrisLawley43]

@@TheBFHGarage why didn’t you use pinion depth shims on the pinion it self like the factory instead of using them behind the pinion race? I’ve heard people going either way but I want to hear why you did it this way? Thanks

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@ChrisLawley43 it all depends on the master install kit you get and whether or not you have a clamshell bearing puller. Some kits come with shims for behind the bearing and some come with shims for behind the race. If you have a setup bearing and race then you can do either.

[@dad3562]

Well said Keith! Thank you so much BFH Garage!

[@dad3562]

Such an art! I feel confident in doing this task because of these videos, I truly appreciate your time in making these!

[@TheBFHGarage]

Glad they help!

[@jimilesaint]

What an concise and unambiguous demonstration. Well done sir 🫡

[@velixzeen]

This is superbly edited and shot. The content is clear, complete, and demonstrated expertly. Wow!

[@Live4alpine]

You aren't just a master mechanic... you are a Jeep wizard! That slick carrier removal trick you demonstrated was the highlight of how screwed I would have been without your video. That thing wasn't budging until I tried what you said and then it just popped right out like nothing was holding it in. I feel a little dirty that I didn't at least buy you a beer for this incredible instruction. First timer full rebuild and re-gear (yeah without a lift). Everything seems golden except my back. Thank you!

[@TheBFHGarage]

Glad the video helped you out!

[@billymills7944]

Hey Mike wanted to thanks watched your videos and took plunge and regeared my tjr nobody died everything worked and wife only yelled at me twice...winning

[@TheBFHGarage]

🤣😂👍👍👍👍

[@travisbuck3643]

This video allowed me to confidently regear my rubi axles myself. Can't thank you enough Mike.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Glad to hear!

[@ej9147]

Finished it up yesterday, no gear noise, no excessive heat (drove for 20 miles per Yukon recommendation, then let it cool) as soon as we stopped the cover was luke warm at best Thanks again for all the info and the excellent video

[@TheBFHGarage]

I love hearing success stories like this!

[@stevezickefoose8563]

Ty KZbin algorithms for bringing your channel to my attention. Also as a reasonably accomplished shade tree mechanic with a driveway that looks like a Jeep dealership, I complement you on your technical expertise and on the excellent quality of your instruction. Sincerely yours, New Subscriber from Southern California.

[@Chasitek]

Even though everyone else has said it. Great job. I’m ready to regear my diff. You’ve given me all the confidence and legit answered every question I had. Thank you.

[@spelunkerd]

You answered some of the questions that came to mind in the first few videos of yours I watched. You put a lot of effort into these videos, with excellent lighting, intelligent commentary, and some tips that I never even thought about. Thanks again for your effort, it raises the bar for everybody else.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Glad it helped out!

[@MrCarloj84]

Thank you for this very informative video! Feeling confident to regear my dana 44 that is going on my 3rd gen 4runner.

[@carledelblute7723]

Thank you! Great job educating me and more importantly I can do this! Ring and pinion here we go.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Good luck and be patient!

[@jaymehm3544]

Thank you so much!! Great video! I'm going to try and tackle it this weekend and save close to $1500. Mahalos from Hawaii!

[@richjames5309]

Thanks man, I was just watching your other videos the other day on re-gearing and Thought, “I wish he did a more detailed video”. Lo and behold.. much appreciated, I’m about to re-gear this weekend. Dana 30 and 44, ARB rear, LSD upfront.

[@TheBFHGarage]

I just posted an ARB install not too long ago. Since you're doing the rear, be sure to cut in your drainage slots 👍

[@richjames5309]

@@TheBFHGarage will do! Thank you sir.

[@Chasitek]

How did your regear go? I’m about to do the exact same as you.

[@richjames5309]

It went ok, it was a pain to do it on the floor though. I would take BFH’s recommendation and remove the entire axle, unless you have a lift. I just got done with the 500 mile break in and took it apart this weekend. I realized that there was too much movement in the seal housing, so I removed the diff and added more shims (mine did not come with Dana master shims, so It was a guess with how many was needed initially). Of course, that messed with the backlash again, so I adjusted it, and now I think my pinion depth needs to be adjusted a bit more. I’m getting a pattern that I’m not super happy with, maybe BFH can help me with that.

[@joshl891]

Thanks for the awesome instructions, I may not tackle my own regearing but now I know that I can if I really decide it's time!

[@robertlinsley7259]

Thank you for a very well put together tutorial video! I am now feeling confident in resetting the gears in my 06 rubicon.

[@gregchiropolos9885]

Thanks for the video I’m just starting the process of replacing my 373 gears in my old CJ Dana 44. I have a Truetrac so it will be a little different but this will be very helpful.

[@TheBFHGarage]

I miss my old CJ's!

[@larrychristopher9147]

Good video. Probably would fabricate housing spreader as i dont like to fight/beat carrier. Was not aware that no crush sleeve was used. Great job.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Housing spreaders are cheap now.

[@ColinDies]

This was a fantastic video. Also, I've seen in other videos that you can basically heat the bearings up with a heat gun for a few minutes, and they should drop right onto their respective shafts, for those that don't have a press.

[@ColinDies]

Finally took the plunge and did it this last weekend. **** - doing that on the ground led to my back feeling like a tenderized piece of meat and a sliced up wrist (from taking the pinion gear in/out repeatedly). Also, as an update to my previous comment - it still took a bit of precision bashing to work those bearings onto the carrier even after heating them. But using the old cones to assist in that prevented any damage to the new bearings. I also ended up using your axle bearing video to replace both axle bearings, seals and retainers. Again - spot on. Wouldn't have been able to do it without them. Thanks again!!

[@ej9147]

Started today, got everything in the rear axle disassembled and mic'd. Really did not like cutting the inner bearing cones off....was worried I was gonna scar something. If I do any more of these I may opt for the clam shell bearing puller......surprised you do not have one😉 Thanks for the great tutorial, will keep you posted on how it goes.....

[@TheBFHGarage]

Yeah it can be nerve racking the first time🤣😂 I have a clamshell puller now👍

[@daviddawkins9669]

you area life saver. i had 3 sets of gears all mixed up now theyre all identified

[@hotroddude6551]

I've been watching many of these gear install vids out of curiosity. FYI, the pinion depth numbers on the head of the pinion is the measurement from the bearing cap face. Use a piece of flatstock, drill a hole in middle for dial caliper. Subtract thickness of flatstock. Pinion depth will be 99.9% on. The gear manufacturers dont engrave numbers for nothing. Been doing it this way 40 years and haven't been wrong yet. Only slight changes if it's an after market housing...Moser is the worst.

[@jeepsolo7218]

This is the video I needed to get me through my first axle rebuild. THANK YOU! Just trussed and rebuilt a JL axle for my ZJ. Put 5.13 with the stock rubicon elocker. I used a spicer FAD delete, will eventually put in a solid passenger axle. Jeepsolo on youtube. Thanks again.

[@jonarment1229]

Outstanding and comprehensive video, sir. Thank you! New subscriber.

[@chash7335]

Ring and pinion gears are set up on a machine that determines the deviation from the design figure. They are not "lapped". A new pinion from another set could be used but the pinion depth number might not be accurate. Other than that this an excellent tutorial.

[@saltydawgcebreros6066]

Great Video. I've done this a while back on my jeep with the help[ of other videos but, this video was way better. Top notch. Thank You!

[@TheBFHGarage]

Thanks! Glad it helped you out.

[@kewl1239]

Great! Thanks! I just learned some of this the hard way and also much more.

[@cotilla1984]

Please what gear al locker do you recommend for tj 1997. R20 /tire 37. Please recommend something 🙏. Thanks for share your video and your comments, great great side by side

[@TheBFHGarage]

My locker of choice is ARB. I don't recommend 37's on stock TJ axles for a variety of reasons.

[@lloydrobles]

Thank you for making and sharing this video. love it. It is exactly what I was looking for.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Glad it helped!

[@d.a.veneziano9651]

Do you like using a clamshell puller ? Also how do you hold it to tighten ring gear bolts ? FYI excellent video

[@TheBFHGarage]

Yes, clamshell puller makes short work but probably not with the cost to do one or two jobs. You can either put the carrier in a vise or use a shop press with a block of wood to hold it.

[@d.a.veneziano9651]

Awesome thanks

[@ej9147]

So, two days later finally got the rear back together...... kinda mauled up the first two threads on the new pinion driving it in and out to get the shim stack right for the preload.....local machinist fixed it up though, thank God!!!!!! Disassembled the front and mic's everything out, but there was something different....the shim for the pinion depth was huge (in diameter), it was the same diameter as the pinion gear itself....what is up with this? Can I still do the pinion depth the same way, putting the shims behind the race instead of between the bearing and the pinion head? Also, on the rear axle the yoke was crazy tight, it was a bear to get on, the splines looked fine. Thinking the Yukon splines are just a bit tighter?........ Thanks again for the great video, I never would have attempted this without it......

[@TheBFHGarage]

So the shim behind the pinion head is larger because they can also use them as a slinger although it's not necessary. If your Yukon kit came with shims that fit behind the race, then yes, set it up using those. Measure that large shim you pulled and use that as your starting point.

[@TheBFHGarage]

As far as the yoke, it is what it is. Some are tighter than others for whatever reason.

[@norbertramirez7894]

could you use the clam-shell bearing puller instead of cutting? I think its a great tool.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Absolutely. The cutting method is for those that don't have a clamshell puller.

[@briannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn]

Favourite mechanic; especially on differentials. The dana 44 has a well-made air-delivery system. ARBs have to be handled like eggs and you are always living with anxiety on the trails. What do you think?

[@TheBFHGarage]

I think you are backwards in your thinking. The stock locker is prone to failure of time. There are no serviceable parts for it when it fails. The ARB is the opposite. You can beat on them all day with no worries. They do have parts that wear, but they are replaceable. The only part of the ARB you need to be careful with is when installing the seal housing with the copper line. If you pay attention and are careful, then there are no worries.

[@briannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn]

​@@TheBFHGarage i guess. you are the expert here. But that is just bad R&D on their part [ARB] or they are just building in some planned obsolescence. The second generation was more forgiving. i acknowledge that they might have a reason why they swapped the seal housing to the opposite side, leaving the copper tube running across the locker and ring gear, without designing a better air line.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@briannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn Why are there several generations of anything? Because products can be improved as technology and use changes. I don't have a problem with where the put the air line. It actually gives you room to put the extra line during installation. Why is there an iphone 13 and not just an iphone? Things get better with technology and use.

[@briannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn]

@@TheBFHGarage I hope the next generation will resolve the egg-shell air line then....

[@vanarchy8037]

Brian Nyamweya Copper tubing will last decades. I routinely operate equipment with copper air lines that were installed in the 1940’s. The only problem is if it’s manipulated too much then copper fatigues quickly. If you broke your line inside the housing it was 100% user error.

[@robertfrancisco1193]

i have a 2015 jeep wrangler willy wheeler with the Dana 44 in the rear 373 gear and found something failing stuck on magnet. i have limited slip if i need to rebuild who makes good replacement parts i was thinking about a locker maybe a gear driven can you give me some input on some options thanks good video !

[@TheBFHGarage]

If you off road frequently, I would consider getting a locker instead of rebuilding the limited slip. There are lots of options out there with ARB being my #1 choice.

[@PranavcheruvathurTRI3P]

Thank you so much for this video ❤

[@tonybrager8709]

Great videos!! Just one question though. Where did you get the shims to put between the case and the inner bearing race for the pinion? My shims are either too small or too big to fit in there correctly.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Depends on what master install kit you order. If the shims are just slightly big, I've had success using a dremel to bring them down a little. Big pain in the butt, but it is an option 👍

[@JamesBrown-rm2rd]

i have never seen what looks like to change rear end gears, two questions first this might sound stupid but does the bearings come prepacked, or do they not need to be packed, second on average what a pretty good

[@TheBFHGarage]

No need to pack bearing.

[@andrewgrove9548]

Nicely done. Thank you helped me out.

[@maxellis950]

Mike, i have watched this video hundreds of times, in the middle of installing 4.56 gears right now. I noticed you didnt use a crush sleave. My rebuild kit came with one. Is it the same process or should i go buy shims to continue on with your install video. Thank you for the aswome video!

[@TheBFHGarage]

Double check you have the right install kit. The TJ D44 uses shims for pinion pre-load, not a crush sleeve. If you're working on a JK, then go to my JK video 😁.

[@maxellis950]

Oh crap! I thought this was it, and it shows I missed the most important part.

[@maxellis950]

Mike, thanks again, I was wondering why I was struggling to keep up and remove driveshaft and other small components.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@maxellis950 😁

[@ddbrocato]

If I have a clamshell puller, is there any downside to putting the pinion shims between the pinion head and bearing, opposed to making a setup race. Seems like I could just seat the new race from the get-go.

[@TheBFHGarage]

That's the point of the clamshell puller. It allows you to do exactly that. Once your pinion depth is established, you're good to go. The only issue you may run into is that a lot of aftermarket master install kits provide shims to go behind the race and not the pinion head. Make sure your kit has them.

[@renegadegarage1820]

I was honestly confused for a bit at the end when you used the torque wrench to tighten the pinion nut because you said at around the 5 minute mark to NOT use the click style torque wrench.

[@TheBFHGarage]

DON'T use a click style torque wrench to check pinion preload (use a beam or dial style). DO use a click style torque wrench when tightening the pinion nut IF the pinion uses shims. If the pinion uses a crush sleeve, then tighten it with a socket until you get the desired pinion preload (checked with a non click style torque wrench).

[@mikechen9428]

Hi Mike, I tried using carriers shims behind the inner bearing race but they are slightly too big. Did you grind yours down to fit or can you buy those separately (part number)? Thank you for inspiring me to take this on!

[@TheBFHGarage]

Depending on which master install kit you use, that may happen on rare occasion. Yes you can take some off the outer edge but make sure there are no burrs sticking up that can affect the thickness.

[@mikechen9428]

@@TheBFHGarage got it. Which master install kit do you use? I have motive gear. Thanks!

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@mikechen9428 depends on what is available nowadays. I like Revolution Gear and Axle.

[@mikechen9428]

@@TheBFHGarage so true waited 3 months for everything to arrive for this job. I’ll give revolution a call tomorrow to see if they got some shims! Have you tried Yukon shims behind the pinion brace by any chance, I messed up the current set and I’ll mihht need to order some depending on luck. Ty and thanks for the awesome video again.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@mikechen9428 yes. You can use whatever shims you want. No need to buy same brand as they are all made for the same axle specs.

[@jeremyreynolds3231]

question. when you pull the carrier / ring gear in and out do you have to do that stick & wire on the locker plunger every time?

[@TheBFHGarage]

No, only for final assembly.

[@starvingartist6754]

Which would you rather do , install new gears or swap the whole rearend with another one,,,which is easier ?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Swapping an axle is way easier and less time consuming!

[@SELCOMSERGIO]

is a excelent show! so good for me..!

[@TheReiby]

thanks for this video! Great man!!

[@ericdarby5350]

So I am trying to get my rings in with the locker and tips .. the ones on the outside of the race

[@TheBFHGarage]

Is that a statement or a question because I'm not sure what you are looking for....

[@ericdarby5350]

@TheBFHGarage I am asking do you have any tips how to get the rings in after the race .. the part in your video you described where you Bent them a couple times.. I bent one of mine I am wondering is there any easy way

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@ericdarby5350 ok gotcha. I put them in with the race. I slowly tap each side in ensuring the shims move with the race. If the shims fall behind or get out of position, then I pull everything back out and start over. Welcome to setting gears! 😎😂

[@ericdarby5350]

@TheBFHGarage I got it, thank you . I am using oem everything, so everything should go back into place, i assume, correct ? And is it easier to just do it with it out ?

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@ericdarby5350 I'm still not following you on what you are doing..... Did you do a full regear? Just change bearings? Not sure what you mean baby you do it with the carrier out.... Explain what you are doing

[@starvingartist6754]

Is it OK to use the old bearings if they're in good shape, I mean they're not hurt at all ?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Sure it is, but my thought is if you're in there and re-gearing why not install fresh bearings too.

[@LaNiceguy]

Mike. Yukon gears install kit does not include shims that will fit behind set up race. I’m stuck. Any advice on who to buy these from? Thanks! If not, guess I’ll be a bearing pulling fool

[@TheBFHGarage]

Might try Amazon at this point for whatever axle you are re-gearing. They sell separate shim packs. I would send you some but I'm out for a few days.

[@LaNiceguy]

Thank! I located some shims at a friends shop that are slightly smaller OD than the race opening. - but don’t fall through. I can do my best to center them when I install final race. Do you think this will be an issue? They clear pinion fine and do mate with race opening lips, but are a little short, or sloppy fit. Again, I can center on final assembly. Any concerns?

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@LaNiceguy I would find the correct shims if it were me. It "might" work, and then again it might not. It's up to you.

[@tedpitts3859]

@@LaNiceguy like in the video, instead of a “stage” race that is easy to remove for set up. Use an over sized pinion bearing that will slide on and off easy. Then you can use the Yukon shims

[@aaronrugh9951]

In the Dana book I have, it says that the pinion pre load should be between 20 to 40 inch pounds. When I got mine back together I was measuring about 35. Do ya think she’ll be alright?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Time will tell, and it'll probably be fine.

[@MercilessJah]

Hey Mike having trouble finding a master install kit for my jeep can u send me the link to where u got urs?

[@TheBFHGarage]

I use Revolution Gear and Axle. If they are back ordered then I would just keep searching other sites.

[@downtowndrewbrown7129]

I have seen, read and actually replaced a pinion seal myself with the axle all together with just marking the nut, housing and flange and tightening back to my mark after replacement. Do you think that gets pinion set back close enough spec in most cases?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Well, first off, if you have an axle that uses shims instead of a crush sleeve then you would just tighten it back to spec. If you have an axle that uses a crush sleeve, then that's a different story. There is so much controversy with that method. When it works for people, they swear by it. When it doesn't work they curse the world and pay for a new gear setup after they discover all the damage from a loose pinon. I have tried it just to see how close I could get and the mark on the nut wasn't even close. Things like temperature when the nut was installed vs. the temp when you reinstall it can affect it greatly due to metal expanding and contracting bsaed on temperature. Sure, people have had success, but if you're wrong, it'll cost you a lot to make it right.

[@downtowndrewbrown7129]

@@TheBFHGarage I know this has nothing to do with my initial question but I just removed the carrier on my dana 30 and there were zero shims. The backlash felt fine before I removed it and the carrier was a pain in the butt to get out. Could they have lucked out at the factory and not needed shims?

[@alushalblushi5216]

Hi Mike thanks for your video . i have question. can i change a rear differential from lock to none lock on jl jeep wrangler can that work or its not ? thank you

[@TheBFHGarage]

Yes, but why would you do that? Maybe I don't understand the question...?

[@iliascharis5668]

Sir I noticed that u may use the brand revolution for pinion and gear replacements......how is that brand compare to original dana ??? Is it stronger ?

[@TheBFHGarage]

I cannot comment on the strength or how Revolution compares to Dana Spicer as I have no idea how they compare. I like Revolution because they set up easy and run quiet. They are Circle K and are very consistent.

[@douglasdownor7723]

Mike, how did you make your set up race? I’m thinking bench grinder or some type of device that centers it in a drill while holding sandpaper against it while it turns. Any tips?

[@TheBFHGarage]

I just use a Dremel with a sanding drum.

[@douglasdownor7723]

Awesome thanks!

[@Sometimes_I_YT]

Great stuff Mike. Wow that was a lengthy video this time. Would you expect this level of a teardown in a Chrysler 8.25 minus a locker? Gears are on my list next and after watching this, I have concerns that my mechanic would not take this level of attention and consideration.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Should be relatively the same. With your 8.25 you have to deal with C clips which isn't a big deal.

[@cotilla1984]

Do you recommend the locker positraction? Please let me know.

[@TheBFHGarage]

ARB or E-Locker

[@Siskiyous6]

Where do we get " a stack of shims" , what about our first time?

[@TheBFHGarage]

When you do gears, you'll need to buy a master or minor install kit based on what you're doing.

[@zacharyhopkins2872]

That baffle or “oil slinger” the Yukon kits don’t show them being provided (2008 jku rubicon) when I look the part up online it comes up at stores like Walmart, I can find the exact one on Amazon but they show that it will not fit my Jeep, my stupid question is, does my Jeep have one? I haven’t started doing it yet, just want all the parts prior to the installation. Thanks

[@TheBFHGarage]

They are not included in any install kits that I'm aware of because they are used as shims. They are all different thicknesses so it would be impossible for them to include the right one in an install kit. No biggie to remove it from the installation process. Just use the correct amount of shims.

[@zacharyhopkins2872]

So they are not a need to have thing? Just measure the thickness of those and use the shims instead?

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@zacharyhopkins2872 Correct. The thickness of that shim may or may not be correct for your new gears but it should get you in the ballpark.

[@zekeisme1]

do you have shims behind the carrier bearings or only on the outside?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Depends on the application. Most of the time they are to the outside.

[@brentwest6359]

Question, I know this is for the rear, what would be different for the front, currently in the midst of replacing gears since the pinion bearing went out in mine, I have see other video's showing a Crush plate, yours does not, I assume this is the difference from the front to the rear, how does that affect the installation and setting the pinion depth?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Specifically to the TJ, the Dana 44 uses shims to set pinion preload. The TJ Dana 30 uses a crush sleeve to set pinion preload. Neither have anything to do with setting pinion depth, only the preload for the pinion bearings. Pinion depth is established by placing shims either between the pinion head and inner bearing or behind the inner race. Hope this helps.

[@ammsar4425]

Thank you about this video explain beutiful im mechanical engineering

[@brading84]

What if my jk dana 44 non rubicon had no shims for the tail bearing ?

[@TheBFHGarage]

The tail bearing doesn't have shims. The shims go under the pinion head out behind the inner race.

[@arlendavis]

Why don't you heat up the bearing in the oven like you did the ring gear so it will just drop on?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Because a press is quicker

[@thomasherron1784]

What number were you trying to get to whe using the needle meter on the pinion you ssid you were at 11 to 12 and that was close but never said your goal number. If that makes since

[@TheBFHGarage]

When setting up new gears I shoot for 16-20

[@starvingartist6754]

Man I tend to be rather ocward with things when I'm wearing glove and turning srews and bolts, I don't see how you can do that !

[@TheBFHGarage]

I work full time for a fire department and we are always working with gloves on. I guess I'm just used to it. Plus, that ring gear is HOT when I put it on!

[@Andrew-iq5ud]

Really good video by the way. Subbed

[@tommalinowski638]

Question. If you need to change pinion gear depth you adding or subtracting shims on inner bearing race. Does it mean that you should do at the same time add or subtract shims from outer bearing?

[@TheBFHGarage]

No shims go behind the outer bearing. Everything is behind the inner bearing race. If you want the pinion to go deeper, you add shims. Shallower, you take away shims.

[@tommalinowski638]

@@TheBFHGarage I meant shims for pinion preload . Do you change that when adjusting pinion depth or leave where it was.Thanks

[@TheBFHGarage]

Ah gotcha. It isn't necessary to install preload shims while trying to figure out pinion depth. Just tighten the pinion nut until you feel some resistance. You don't want it loose but you don't want to over tighten it either.

[@tommalinowski638]

@@TheBFHGarage Thanks. I am in the middle of rebuilding rear Dana 44 on my son’s 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport. We had broken pinion gear tooth damaged all gears inside. We are in process of setting up. Thanks for informative video.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Glad it is helping you out!

[@michael70h7]

Is it ok to do a setup pinion race like you did with the old race, find a good pattern, and then install the new race? Or will the pattern be different after switching to the new race? What’s ur take?

[@TheBFHGarage]

I have tried the "old" race and the pattern always changes compared to a new race. It's due to wear on the old race. We are talking thousandths of an inch changes. Spend the 5 bucks and get a new race to use as your setup. My opinion.

[@michael70h7]

@@TheBFHGarage does brand matter? Or go with same brand ya think?

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@michael70h7 I always stick with same brand....

[@michael70h7]

@@TheBFHGarage I appreciate yee! Thank you

[@meladamson4963]

Amazing!

[@gaithervaughn6664]

Excellent video., Great job.

[@daledow2278]

Im just going to pay you to do mine.. screw that mess.

[@TheBFHGarage]

🤣😂

[@JeepnJohnny]

Does this process work for a 2020 Wrangler Rubicon?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Very similar, but the lockers are different. The 2020 front axles also have an axle disconnect. Gear setting is the same.

[@davidcook3101]

Couldn’t you just throw the bearings in the oven with the ring gear?

[@TheBFHGarage]

You could, but if you need to remove them for anything you'll have to do it again. With a press, I also ensure they get seated all the way too.

[@JamesBrown-rm2rd]

guess as to what it would cost

[@TheBFHGarage]

Front and rear can run about $1500

[@JamesBrown-rm2rd]

to do that job

[@中島学-b4k]

Thompson Donald Garcia Jose Walker Anthony

[@Andrew-iq5ud]

No way in hell im doin this myself LMAO

[@rickl571]

Hi there, just a quick question where in the states are u located? You can message me if you like just ask for email

[@TheBFHGarage]

You can contact me at the email on my KZbin channel.

[@rickl571]

@@TheBFHGarage hi there, don’t know if I did it right or not regarding the email, let me know

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@rickl571 [e-mail]