How to Install SmartSide Lap Siding

[@lyleconway6795]

The first 10 minute of this video is filled with all of the best siding layout tips I’ve ever seen and heard. Awesome video dude

[@AwesomeFramers]

Thanks Lyle.

[@cmleoj]

I agree.😀

[@pcatful]

I imagine it's rare a builder explains the process so thoroughly to his/ her own crew. I know I have worked on framing crews myself, and there was precious little spoken before we just went at it with a few commands. A great resource for apprentices.

[@jameschupp2230]

Measuring from the top of the sill plate is a Great Tip! Plus all the other tips... Like a crash course on how to be a pro !!!

[@dougwilliams44]

Top will always come out from 3.5" to 5.24" UNLESS YOU CONTINUE TO MEASURE DOWN FROM SOFFIT

[@ThePeterReyes]

Master carpenter.... Amazing stuff !!! your on a other level. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.

[@thebeardedone1225]

I often find myself working alone on a build, and you are correct on just needing a helping hand at times, to hold up the end of a board, or help carry a large piece. I too dropped the very same trim frame, so I took a six foot piece, and started a deck screw about six inches from each end, to support the frame on the top inside corners. Just a helping hand.

[@wcbscout]

Great job, thanks for sharing, satisfying to watch. By the way, I’m the slowest and least perfect on all phases, I chuckle.

[@WayneSmith-yf3fg]

I like your idea of measuring inside from the floor. We do almost all vinyl siding and I have everyone place the top of the starter strip level with the top of the sill plate all the way around. This allows the siding to cover the sill plate by an inch.

[@wcbscout]

You lost all credibility with the mention of willingly installing vinyl siding, I chuckle. Perhaps there is value in it I am unaware of. Round here vinyl siding is the dumpster fire of cladding. Please educate me about its merits. Apologies for the stern dislike for vinyl.

[@WayneSmith-yf3fg]

@@wcbscout We are building Habitat for Humanity houses so we need cheap, low maintenance siding. Also you have obviously not had to maintain a 100 year old house with painted cedar shakes.

[@wcbscout]

@@WayneSmith-yf3fg you are correct, I have avoided cedar shakes and vinyl siding for the lack of longevity and durability, and the maintenance. Wish you the very best day.

[@mash5702]

Impressive work and good to see you guys enjoying your work and having FUN.

[@robertshriver8392]

Kyle is one of the best helpers I have ever seen

[@deej19142]

Watching this siding video this morning on Thursday This is turning out to be one of my favorite videos of all the stuff you guys have done very interesting. I really like the voiceover explanation. Nice job!

[@junbarz361]

You guys liked an orchestra. Awesome framers.

[@Ramdodge582]

I used H molding for the butt joints on my house with this siding and love it. No caulk shrinkage, which lets face it, everyone hates.

[@aaronnixon1767]

Your Chanel makes me a better builder. Thanks! Like Jordan at the free throw line on these houses bro!

[@dawsonlinde9542]

Man, I’m learning so much from you guys. Keep it coming. Very inspiring

[@davidparker8475]

Well I'm just gonna say you two are excellent. Thanks for the good work!

[@russellfreeburn6284]

Great work, love the way you guys work together

[@raymihurtadostuart7052]

Nice work!

[@greenpeanuts77]

mesmerising

[@johnbennett4413]

Great video thanks

[@joegrimes6485]

Nice job guys

[@chrisvanzyl1690]

I think that was the most awesome intro to a video ever!!!😂😂 Please stretch before you do it, dont want you guys to pull a hamstring🙈

[@AwesomeFramers]

I should have explained it. We do that anytime something fits right or after we lift a huge wall 😂😂😂

[@ivtec845]

Thank you for using a finish nailer on the trim it makes me cringe when people blow siding nails into it 🤮

[@BradKerley]

Exactly the comment I was looking for. 16 or 18 ga? I'm about to start my siding/trim :) so thanks in advance

[@T.E.P..]

outstanding video .... you guys rock! They are a delight to watch and super informative ... superb content

[@skoomasteve6144]

Thanks for the great stuff fellas

[@frankblack1481]

Whatever you’re paying Kyle - I hope it’s enough. To use an Irish expression “He’s as useful as a small pot”. (That’s a good thing). It’s remarkable the ‘dance’ between the two of you as you work.

[@spankiedoodlesteve2086]

I think u guys do pretty excellent work

[@wilfredocordero5824]

hey man! this vid is screaming @ me spech,spech,. one word: AWESOM.

[@wadepowell7879]

Awesome video!

[@skoomasteve6144]

I love this channel

[@thomasgoad3695]

Love that corrugated stapler, but what I see they are 400.D Don't like the corners ,we have bugs in out area and they love places like this.

[@duanemckitterick3450]

I love your digs at the KZbinr trolls 👿. P.S. I love watching your vids.

[@Burritosarebetterthantacos]

I wish I went into carpentry as a career because over the past decade Ive bought an entire construction company worth of tools to diy my house😂. My Dad was a builder so I am contractor shy.

[@mpenrod]

We just used the LP siding on a job for the first time. It came pre-finished and it was so much nicer than fiber cement. Easier to handle (you can carry it one handed right in the middle and it won't break), no silica dust, no special blade, holds nails better. On the gable we sided, we installed a 1.75" wide by 3/4 thick piece up against the soffit. Then we sided to that, knowing our angles wouldn't be perfect to begin with since the bottom course was going to be out of level. As we adjusted and got to level as we went up, the pieces fit better, but we left about 1/8 light of a gap at the ends for movement. Then we installed a 1x4 over that 3/4 furring strip and it came out looking sweet. But yeah, it certainly helps to have that rapport with your coworker who can anticipate your train of thought and you do the same with his. Makes everything much smoother and stress free. Another fine job. Thanks for sharing.

[@FrederVision]

It would be good to run a bead around the entire rear of the light block to keep air barrier continuous

[@charlesviner1565]

Like 👍 all your videos

[@Lawiah0]

My feet and hands are very large, naturally I only build with SIP's. Having stated the obvious, I also prefer "fluid applied flash" ​over tape. It costs about half that of Tape and IMO provides superior results.

[@AwesomeFramers]

I'd love to try SIPS at some point, especially as I get older. Here Liquid Flash is significantly more expensive than the tape, I think last I looked it was triple.

[@Lawiah0]

@@AwesomeFramers Once you start building with SIPs you'll find just how jealous people can be of your success; I think it has something to do with the way that we fill out our skin tight blue jeans.

[@andrewberglund443]

Loved this whole Lakeshore Siding series! Thanks for sharing! like the way you guys did you outside corners over the LP lap siding. I have never seen it done this way and it seems way easier. Are you having to caulk in all of those gaps created by going over the top? I feel like you said it is not necessary in so many words, but wanted to clarify. Also, does the waviness of the LP lap at the bottom overlap ever go away? I feel like most houses around me still have this for years. Any tricks to prevent this?

[@markrutter1513]

You are absolutely right, I am better and faster so I thought I should comment:)

[@c5tv674]

The problem I see with doing corners like that is bugs man! Specifically wasps. I’ve ripped off enough vinyl shutters to know where wasps do there best work. And all those little gaps man…you’re just inviting them to start building nests

[@AwesomeFramers]

I hear you, that's why I always state that this works well in our area and climate zone. We don't have that problem here. We get a lot of rain, but we are fortunate when it comes to bugs. BTW, this detail is in the instructions for the siding, so I wonder if most areas don't have a problem with wasps.

[@stephenwilson9612]

@@AwesomeFramers I have to agree with @C5 TV. It's not really the bugs more than it's the gaps over the laps that bug me. Butt your siding to trim. And I don't care what LP says. Three stinks gap at the butt is hideous.

[@andrew3791]

Enough about how to build houses. I know that, howtf you build them calves 🤣

[@AwesomeFramers]

😂😂😂😂

[@johnboudreau6833]

The segment of running lap around the slider and short return wall is pretty smooth, missed light block and all. I’d be interested to know what the real time for that was…

[@You-jl5gl]

Молодцы!

[@nobleroofinggeneralcontrac7961]

Back in the day up in new england I clap board sided for a minute with a guy. He built a story pole so that the bottom of a clap would land on top of the drip edge on doors and windows. The to the weather spacing would be cheated to make this happen and not recognizable to the naked eye. We never notched out under windows or over the top. If I was not just a kid and paid more attention I would have learned his layout. I have search and searched it drives me crazy. There is a KZbin vid at a show and a guy teaching story pole from I think the same publication you write for JCL or something like that. The problem is he confused everything some people commented on that. One thing he was teaching is how to use a rubber band with mark of the spacing on it to stretch the to the weather spacing. I wish i could find a comprehensive teaching.

[@vansage2691]

@PerkinsBrothers did a video on with a story pole and by angling it they found the new spacing. It was a white building Jaime was restoring. I actually learned something that day

[@ronniekilbourn3614]

@@vansage2691 I was going to say the same, you beat me to it

[@mpenrod]

@@vansage2691 yeah, seen it on this old house agreed ago. Layout your story pole with your reveal. Then, draw level lines from the bottom of your window trim and the top of your window trim. Then, with your story pole at where the bottom of your first course should be, lean the story pole until on your lines on your story pole lines up with the bottom of the window. Then mark your story pole reveals on the sheathing and transfer those heights to your corners and pop lines. Then do the same between the top and bottom of your windows. This will give you the bottom of your siding. You can adjust to get the top of your siding. Your reveals will differ slightly but most people won't pick up on it. Of course, if all the windows aren't the same size and at the same height, you're going to have to notch somewhere. You need to pick what side you think deserves this attention.

[@AwesomeFramers]

we don't usually bother with lap, but in the next video I do that when I install cedar shingles.

[@nobleroofinggeneralcontrac7961]

@@AwesomeFramers That would be great. Thank you

[@thormatteson7141]

It's hard for me to watch such care taken with OSB-based siding and trim.... what alternatives might there be that are solid wood? (I know the standard arguments for OSB being more uniform, controlled manufacture, blah blah....)

[@wcbscout]

Caulking butt joints is silly, such a waste, it’s just a point of failure, caulk is one of the first things to fail. Rhino skin or equivalent behind the butt joints is what we prefer and makes the most sense from my experience.

[@AwesomeFramers]

LP requires this detail, though they are coming out with a tech note that if you use pan flashing or slip sheets, they want an additional coat of paint over the factory primed ends. That's actually what we are switching to. I respectfully disagree with you about the caulk joints and failure being an issue. I have heard that since the early 90's and have been online asking for pictures for the 20 years and I can't find any evidence of this causing damage. I totally agree with you that caulking these joints, though required by the manfacturer, is a lame process. Especially for the home owner because it requires maintenance.

[@wcbscout]

I heard you mention the requirements from LP in the video . Doesn’t change my opinion. I definitely would rather paint the edges than caulk butt joints. Perhaps we don’t disagree at all, maybe I used terminology wrong. Caulk fails all the time, and requires maintenance as you mention, but I wouldn’t say caulking butt joints cause damage to siding. I have not found damage from failed caulk, just lots of work that is preventable. I would say the siding may suffer a little damage on the edges from removal of failed caulk and reapplication of caulk. Yet it appears a slip sheet will last as long as the siding. What do I know tho. Just a guy commenting on KZbin who has lost so much time and money building homes.

[@zoeyanth1]

@@AwesomeFramers I can't believe such a big company started with a gap and caulk. Didn't they learn from hardie.

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@wcbscout no, I don't think we disagree. I do know that LP wouldn't be requiring gaps + sealant if there actually was damage caused by this requirement. I prefer to eliminate sealant where possible for the reasons you mention, but the reality is here in our climate zone, a good quality sealant like OSI Quad Max performs very very well.

[@feloniousc1235]

What are some reasons you would do 24 on center rather than 16 on center? To save material?

[@carstengrove6214]

Why do you choose LP lap over hardie? Just curious

[@TerraFirmaX]

So no caulking in the corner trim? I'm curious because I'm building my own house and am getting ready to install Hardie plank. I live in S e Arizona and the summer monsoons are relentless. So you feel like leaving the ends open will promote better drying? What about critters? I am using Zip Board by the way and yes, I roll the tape LOL, I even mention it my videos.

[@ABZD019]

With so much rain in your area, do you ever back vent the cladding with a rain screen of some kind?

[@AwesomeFramers]

I have a reply to a similar question somewhere in the comments. Short answer is for lap siding, no. In the next video though, I'll show what we use behind cedar siding.

[@gkbuilding]

Couldn’t you just but a heavy bead of sealant on those corner boards and that would fill the gaps when nailing them on?

[@AwesomeFramers]

you could. We don't because it allows airflow to keep things dry and is a maintenance free corner.

[@zephyr1408]

I am a finish carpenter I hv never seen One of those fasteners? I will get one thank u for the review?? And if u had an affiate store like Spencer, Kyle, Dr Ducks, u could make some green bones! Oh when u tripped I have this to say “🍌” watch out for those Nanner peels!

[@AwesomeFramers]

I need to look into affiliate links. I just don't know if its actually worth the time.

[@zephyr1408]

@@AwesomeFramers I would reach out to someone you know and ask ? Kyle ? Spencer Lewis “inside Carpenter” seems to say it helps to pay time and material expense for video’s that has to cost you & the family ! Anyway I sure enjoy learning! Now if a customer ask me who should ask to fix or build this I hv more knowledge! Anyway stay safe!

[@duanefoley5914]

Tim I'm trying to cut down on the amount of caulking I need to do when siding a house. I'm going to try your corner method on the next house. I was wondering if you have ever used a similar method on inside corners and what the pros/cons are from your point of veiw.

[@duanefoley5914]

I'm also looking for a description on your payload gun you nail trim on with I'm guessing 15 gage nails?

[@nrehberg]

Would you do that corner board technique in a remodel situation? Seems like it wouldn’t work as well unless the walls are plumb and true… something I never find on my remodels.

[@danbiss87]

Are all the lap joints caulked after? I would think a piece of metal flashing would be installed between the buttjoints since theirs only a 2 inch lap

[@lawrenceporter3723]

What brand of windows did you guys use ? Love that front one

[@AwesomeFramers]

PlyGem and they are currently like a 4 month lead time. Its insane.

[@scottjackson638]

I enjoy your channel. May I ask a question? When you nail the exterior trim around the window frames, it appears that the nails will penetrate the window flanges. Is that a problem as the vinyl can fracture? Could you alternatively nail more toward the exterior edges of the trim to avoid the flanges?

[@AwesomeFramers]

Good question. The trim nails won't damage the flange and the instructions for the trim show nailing this way. My personal feeling is that you could do exactly as you describe and the trim is going to last and not move.

[@gibsonbuilds4841]

My thoughts exactly...I treat window flanges very delicate as you don't want to crack it..and from what we could see in the video of nailing that close to the window....that would be hitting no wood as the gap of the rough opening is there. Trying not to be critical as you do a great job...but just thinking out loud. Lol.

[@adamcoleman7810]

I'm curious why you guys have decided to switch from Hardie to LP siding?

[@AwesomeFramers]

Hardie is heavy, floppy and easy to crack. We've replaced a lot Hardie from golf ball damage. It becomes brittle on the wall over time and the dust is a health hazard in my opinion.

[@carstencroessmann]

@ 0:35 sec. Did you forgot to add the tape on the bottom of the zip board behind the ladders? Rgds from Germany Carsten

[@AwesomeFramers]

I just showed tape as an option. Others chose metal or to hold the wall back.

[@ducvu8777]

👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@Faruk651]

No flashing at the seams :O

[@AwesomeFramers]

as I said in the video, we are following the manufacturer's warranty details.

[@KurtMGibbs]

How do you feel about using a rain screen under siding?

[@craighanus]

A Rain Screen is the way to go on all new envelopes. Just follow the Perfect Wall principles.

[@joshuasmith1215]

I second that. No way I'd put up siding without one. Hopefully it's code everywhere soon, along with some exterior insulation.

[@AwesomeFramers]

In part 2, you'll see the rain screen behind the cedar shingles. Zip panels have a 98% drainage efficiency when tested to ASTM E2273-03. That test is more rigorous than lap siding installed. When we install panel siding over the Zip, then we provide a gap between the sheathing and siding. Many people or way overselling the benefits of rain screen. It certainly is a good practice, but is not needed in all cases or climates. What we need to focus on is getting the details right on the siding, flashing, maintenance, etc.

[@pats9414]

Exactly man. Need to focus more on attention to details and less what the cool KZbin gurus building unlimited budget homes rave about.

[@bobf216]

Does the joint where the trim meets the window get caulked?

[@joep8520]

Great video. I was surprised that you didn't use a rain screen though. Is that a new LP requirement or just for their board and batton?

[@AwesomeFramers]

check out part 2 of the siding. It is not required by LP

[@joep8520]

@@AwesomeFramers I did see that. I could have sworn Kyle Stumpenhorst said it was required by LP now, perhaps that is just for the vertical as you indicated in part 2. Really binging all of your content today, loving every bit of it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Really enjoyed the video on how to measure/calculate the overframe for this one.

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@joep8520 Thanks bro! I had the same question about the "water screen" after attending IBS2020. Here is the link lpcorp.com/resources/product-literature/technical-notes/tn-028-vertical-siding Both Weather Logic and Zip qualify as "non-compressible drainable housewrap"

[@bondking501]

Great information. How do you do your inside corners? I am almost at the siding stage for my home addition.

[@joshwalters348]

Around the 16:00 mark he shows an inside corner, looks like they ripped a board of the siding trim to a square 2x2 or whatever the reveal is and nail it to the wall butting their siding to it. That's the way we usually do it anyways

[@calebhelmuth]

Any issues with bugs getting behind your corner board detail?

[@AwesomeFramers]

nope, and we've pulled off this style on old buildings from the 60s

[@loganpatterson4674]

How do you seal bottom edge of sheathing?

[@julietphillips1991]

The Makita framing saw that you are using, could you please say what is the model number? Thank you.

[@AwesomeFramers]

www.makitatools.com/products/details/XSR01PT

[@julietphillips1991]

@@AwesomeFramers Thank you.

[@meats4eats210]

Rain screen?

[@lb7wade518]

Why no flashing behind the butt joints

[@AwesomeFramers]

Manufacturer doesn't require it. Sealant does the job 👍

[@jasonclanton4656]

What is the reason for prefabricating the window trim ?

[@AwesomeFramers]

more efficient and the joints stay tight

[@hammertime7349]

One more question. How do u like those PlyJem windows

[@AwesomeFramers]

Been using them for years. They aren't high end but they hold up well

[@cacausada]

You guys dont metal flash your windows?

[@ronniependley1016]

What siding gun are you using?

[@daviddemyan927]

How much is an average house you guys build cost per sq.ft?

[@LittleBunnyKungFoo]

Why no flashing behind the butt joints?

[@AwesomeFramers]

no need for it. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. If you feel it is needed, please provide some pictures showing damage from the lack of sealant.

[@LittleBunnyKungFoo]

@@AwesomeFramers I only asked because every manufacturer I have found so far has required back flashing in their installation instructions. After watching this I tried again to find one that didnt and gave up at 13 that all required. Thought maybe you guys had a creative way around it

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@LittleBunnyKungFoo so the LP SmartSide instructions show sealant at butt joints to meet warranty. You certainly can slip sheet behind the joint too. In fact they now show a detail where we can slip sheet and eliminate the sealant (provided we paint the ends over the factory primer). lpcorp.com/products/siding-trim/build-with-lp-smartside/installation-instructions I'm sorry for coming on strong. As you can see from the other comments, people claim there's an issue with no slip sheet or pan flashing, but no one every shows actual damage. I shouldn't have assumed you were one of them. I owe you a beer.

[@LittleBunnyKungFoo]

@@AwesomeFramers No apology necessary, but Ill take you up on the beer. I read that guide but totally missed the “four options.” I skimmed through and thought it required caulking AND flashing, not either or. Glad I asked - always room for learning 😁

[@eskewconstruction6526]

What nails bags are you guys using.

[@AwesomeFramers]

www.badgertoolbelts.com/

[@madcowusa4277]

Wish building was like this back in the day. Instead it was working on inexperienced crews consisting of felons, druggies, misfits and cranky old lead carpenters who just barked and berated you and rarely taught anything. Framing was crap wages, dangerous because of the idiots hired off the street and a hard life during the long dark PNW winters. Hopefully thing are different today.

[@zephyr1408]

Nail? What nail are you using for the siding?

[@AwesomeFramers]

a 2 3/16" hot dipped coil nail

[@sorenjensen3863]

Love the work, but holy does that matching siding/trim hurt my eyes. Why does someone decide to trim with the same color as the siding? So monotonous

[@derekt4459]

What sizes corrugated nails do you use?

[@AwesomeFramers]

I believe they are 5/8" and I buy them from www.nailgundepot.com/spotnails-x1c1008-12-crown-corrugated-tool-14-to-58-details.html I forgot to add that in the description, adding now.

[@wbsmith1678]

That’s what we used to use to build when the window screens for the windows back in the 50s and 60s but we drove them in with a hammer and they worked real good

[@rogerhale6404]

use Gecko gauges

[@michaelrobinson6390]

Poo o oh my god 😉😉🤮 the world 😉 of us know 😉😉😉😉

[@fess71]

Эвл

[@davidrose1698]

You say 6 but measure 8... Just saying. Enjoy your content.

[@lotussolo7695]

2 inch overlap

[@davidrose1698]

@@lotussolo7695 No he pulled 8 from the bottom of sheathing instead of 6 in the commentary. His siding was not going to hang past the bottom of his cheating.

[@AwesomeFramers]

If you look real close, I hung my tape below the sheathing

[@thomasschafer7268]

Hallo. Was machr ihr da? Schon mal was von hinterlüftung gehört? Kostet nicht die Welt. Macht die Konstruktion sicherer und besser!!!!

[@gabosantiz6799]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@dangvega3510]

Everything is wrong I am 10 years experience in lp Dimondkote siding

[@hammertime7349]

Just curious. So u work for pioneer builders but you’re more of a subcontractor right? I take it u work for other builders to.

[@AwesomeFramers]

nope, directly for Pioneer. My dad started Pioneer when I was 6 months old and has always kept the framing and siding in house. Subbed when we had too much work, but typically we've done the framing, siding, and foundations in house. If the market gets super slow, we've subbed out to other builders, but only a couple of times in 43 years.

[@nobodyimportant002]

@@AwesomeFramers So did your pop do the framing when you were young?

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@nobodyimportant002 he did, but he had a lead carpenter and worked as a helper during the day then evenings getting the business going.

[@nobodyimportant002]

@@AwesomeFramers So he was the builder, but he had an in-house framing crew and he also worked with them as a helper? Having an in-house framing crew sounds like a great way to build. I don't know if I could make it work here in central Texas, but I may give it a shot someday. My greatest challenge, by a wide margin, would be finding someone reliable enough to step in as framing lead. There are a handful of good folks out there, but methamphetamine inevitably seems to work its way into their lives. Naturally, then, their leadership, quality of work, and production drop precipitously. In my experience, it's been nearly impossible to bring them back from those life choices because they genuinely don't think they have a problem. They have a false sense of being in control of themselves. It's really sad.

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@nobodyimportant002 yep, and over the years there was turnover, but always had good guys to work with. I remember summer of 89, I was 12 and out there hand driving 2x4 walls together with one guy named Frank. He was doing layout and I just swung away. I remember it taking a lot of swings to drive a sinker 😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@dustina6261]

Wow why would you not flash those butt joints…what a crucial error, there has been many houses that have had to be resheathed due to caulk joints failing, shrinking, cracking….not to mention that lp siding is just chip board, water gets behind it and it’s basically tissue paper and all over with

[@AwesomeFramers]

I disagree

[@magictrading8903]

Had me until LP dumb side. No idea why guys use that crap

[@AwesomeFramers]

It's a better product than fiber cement. It has a better warranty, no silica, longer lengths, lighter weight, looks better and it's manufacturing process is better for the environment.

[@magictrading8903]

@@AwesomeFramers I just disagree that it’s a better product. It’s made of wood. The cut ends need to be painted and caulked. They have plenty of “outs” for a warranty claim and who needs the inevitable headache when there is rot. Fiber dement is far superior IMO

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@magictrading8903 check your fiber cement instructions, they require painting the cut ends as well. Also do you know what the fiber is in fiber cement? Cellulose.... Just think about that. Hardie is NOT concrete board or cement board

[@magictrading8903]

@@AwesomeFramers the hardie comes primed and as far I know cuts don’t need to be painted and sealed. For me it’s a bit of common sense. LP is particle board in essence. Will rot. Hardie will not. The ease of install and long lengths don’t seem worth it to have to deal with the risks. Just my .02

[@AwesomeFramers]

@@magictrading8903 I hear you, but check the Hardie instructions. Cut ends have to be painted. LP doesn't rot when it's installed correctly.