How To Join Galvanized Pipe to P.V.C / P.V.C. To Galvanized

[@elmono3939]

Finally, a plumber that shows it how it is. No brand new tools, no ads every minute, no brand new shirts, or color LED lights in studio. Thank you for showing it how it is !

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Wow, thanks! Much appreciated. Bob

[@bobdole234bd]

Still helping DIYers 10 years later! Thanks for the tip on an unconventional (and apparently not up to code) plumping problem of mine.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad it helped!

[@garytencer117]

Thanks very much Bob. Your hint about using a pipe to tubular coupling saved me a lot of anguish when I had to redo my drain when we installed a new deeper kitchen sink. The old galvanized nipple going to the trap was rotten at the brass elbow and a bit too long for the trap to fit. Cutting the nipple back and installing the coupling worked perfectly. Mind you that I like my plumber friend but I can't shed my DIY addiction. Thanks again.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Thank you for taking the time to check out the video! Bob.

[@Boobiemusic]

This was fantastic - I was changing my bathroom cabinet and sink and my drain pipe crumbled in my hand and all the pipe was corroded except the portion welded to the wall. I have options! Thanks!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

You're welcome Michelle, thanks for checking out my channel! Regards, Bob.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

You're welcome, Regards, Bob.

[@robertbaker50]

Thanks, I am moving the sink drain because of a bathroom into a laundry room remodel, this helped a lot and gave some insight to what I could do to make it work.

[@dougharlow6037]

will this work for mobile home hot and cold water pressure lines? Right now their 3/4 in. galvanized pipe. Great video. Thanks

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

No , this is for waste / drains lines only. No -hub couplings are for drain lines. Not meant for high pressure water lines.

[@donaldwilson5968]

Wow. Thank you Bob for opening my mind and solving my problem. I have a rusty undergrond 1/2 inch galvanized water feeder line extending into my back yard which long ago had been capped off (leading to no where). Recent sewer digging upset the pipe causing it to leak along its course. I cut out the leaking section (about 6") with the intention of simply capping it, since the end is not threaded. I thought that I could grind it off at the end and epoxy a pvc cap on it. That didn't work. It leaks. The no hub coupling looks like a good fix. Thank you. Don in Davis, Ca.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Donald Wilson Thanks for checking out the video Donald. No hub couplings are for non pressure drain lines, not to be used for water pipe ( pressurized) lines. For 1/2” galvanized water pipe I would use a dresser coupling.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Check out this link : s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Wal-rich-2804202-Submittal-Sheet.pdf

[@donaldwilson5968]

Oh! Thank you again. I understand. Will do.

[@samanthamoran3870]

I recently bought a house and I had to replace a part of the water line. I have been desperately trying to figure out how to hook the metal to pvc. thank you so much!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Samantha, this video is specifically for drain/ waste lines. Check this one out for water lines- kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3_UmGuVqcinrq8

[@SoledadSong]

Fantastically helpful. Thank you so much. I'm housesitting for some people who's kitchen P-trap was held together by faith. Not surprisingly, it leaks and blew. I snaked and rinsed it out, but that's only a temporary fix, because none of the joints are tight or sealed. This gave me some great ideas on how to repair it so that it lasts and yet will still be easy to clean out.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad to help Soledad, keep coming back and HAPPY PLUMBING!

[@wilfredolatorre]

+Soledad Song Your awesome Soledad I wish there were more women like you.

[@YummyPork]

I've ended up on this video twice in the last 6 months as the last of the galvanized pipe is failing. Thanks for sharing all the options for connecting the stub to sink drain with no-hub couplings. Saves me many trips to Home Depot as I can go there with a plan.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Thanks so much for watching. Regards, Bob.

[@pcm7315]

Options, just what I needed! Same boat with the galvanized pipe. I see it, it makes sense, but it seldom works out for me like in the movies. I'm thankful the big box is only blocks away.

[@melodystaats5215]

EXCELLENT VIDEO! Simple, straightforward, and comprehensive: JUST the information I was seeking. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

You're welcome melody!

[@Eastbaypisces]

​@@BobsPlumbingVideos can I just cut the galvanized n use no hub then?

[@neilsolano8874]

Excellent! Just one question. Is there any male pvc or abs adapter that can connect directly to the female thread steel? To avoid having to use the rubber coupling.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

They make 1 1/2" and 2" male and or female adapters for both P.V.C. & A.B.S. Glue it onto the pipe and screw it into a female galvanized fitting.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

This is for George A. George it's a T-150 no hub coupling which takes you from 1 1/2" pipe to 1 1/2" tubular. Best bet is a regular plumbing supply house! Hope that helps! Thanks for watching. Bob.

[@kamoose21]

Can this be used in a pipeline for a small community? Are the couplings pressure rated?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

These coupling s are for waste water only! They're not for high pressure applications.

[@macman9689]

BobsPlumbingVideos so this can't be used for bathroom wall tube connection?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

It absolutely can, if the nipple coming out of the wall is in good condition you cut it and clamp right onto it.

[@macman9689]

BobsPlumbingVideos thanks!

[@GeoKnowLearning]

We have an old sprinkler system where the supply line is galvanized steel. It would be much easier to work on repairs if I cut it back and transitioned to PVC so I can rebuild by valve manifolds. Will this transition work on a sprinkler supply line to go from galvanized to PVC?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

This method is for drain lines ONLY! Not pressurized lines!!

[@GeoKnowLearning]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos any idea how i could go from galvanized to PVC with a pressurized system?

[@Anubalfer]

After putting the thread tape on the nipple you said to use joint compound. Any recommendations here? I'm just putting a new nipple in and putting the tube in with a nut and washer.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

amzn.to/49mNcue

[@Missconduct044]

Hey bob, I have a cracked kitchen drain “waste” pipe. It’s not the pipes under the sink but the one that ties in the main sewer line. The existing pipe is steel. Is it ok to replace the steel cracked pipe with PVC? I kind of don’t want to replace the entire pipe, just the section that’s bad. So that would mean I need a “coupler” that would be PVC to steel. What would that coupler be called? The existing pipe is 1 1/4. None of this is underground. It’s in a crawl space. Thanking you in advance bc I see you do respond. It’s actually awesome that you respond!!

[@Missconduct044]

Just to clarify I feel like I can and I guess I’m just looking for reassurance. lol! The existing steel pipe has threaded connectors, but it looks like it’s soldered as well. That’s why we were going to just cut it out.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Send me a couple of photos - [e-mail]

[@flipper2473]

Hello, I plan on replcing a ancient backwater valve in my basement. I was planning on using the corrugated metal coupling because I can easily fold/roll the rubber over the 4 " cast iron to make room for the pvc that will be within a 1/16 " from the cast iron. A plumber told me to use the smooth stainless steel shield proflex 3000-44. That rubber is vitually impossible to stay rolled back while I line up the pvc to cast iron. Is it ok to use the corrugated metal shield coupling (4") for my application, and are there any tricks in connecting / rolling the thicker proflex 3000-44 hub over the cast iron ? Thanks

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Check out my reply above!

[@flipper2473]

Hi, I don't see any reply related to My question, I must be missing something.

[@benmart806]

Will this work for hot water lines?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

That's a BIG NO! Drain lines only.

[@benmart806]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos thank you

[@freespirit8041]

Thank you for this wdeo, I m having a lot of problems with pipes leaking under the house.

[@m.n.3490]

Do you have any videos for dealing with galvanized pipes that are rusting, and starting to leak? I have a basement 3/4" pipe that has a rust 'bump' that has a drip. I was trying to decide between (1) wire brushing the rust bump down to level it with the pipe, and then using a compression clamp like maybe a (3/4" x 6" Stainless Steel Dresser Handiband Repair Clamp) ... versus ... (2) sawing about 2" of the rusted section of galvanized out, and then replacing the rusted section with a 4" long, galvanized iron Compression Coupling. Or, (3) my other idea, since I already have a older clamp that is getting rusty, about 6 feet from the newer drip, maybe cutting about 6 feet of galvanized pipe out, then using two compression couplings (one at each end), and then putting a galvanized nipple pipe, and a "shark bite" pex fitting at each end, and then placing about 6 feet of pex, in place of the removed 6 feet of galvanized. (I am guessing I would need to support the pex somehow, since it would be around 6 feet long, running in parallel to 2 rafter joists in the basement). After watching your video, it looks like I could use those no hub coupling also? Or would the weight of the longer run of galvanized preclude using no hub couplings? Or, maybe just require some more support also?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

The video is for drain lines only (no pressure), no -hub couplings are specifically for drain lines. If you're talking water pipe (pressurized) I would be inclined to cut out the bad section and replace it with either new galvanized pipe or c.p.v.c. (if legal ) in your jurisdiction. SharkBite fitting is the quickest way to do it, but here in N.Y.C., we're not allowed to use them. You'll definitely need to support the c.p.v.c. if that's the way you want to go. Not 100% sure on this but I believe for a 1/2" pipe you'll need a 3/4" shark bite fitting. If you don't want to open a can of worms, the pipe clamp method may save you some headaches.

[@brewcityballer]

does this work under pressure or just for draining?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Drains Only!

[@sunnifreyer2759]

So I am trying to connect plastic pipe from p-trap under my kitchen sink to the galvanized steel wall drain pipe which is pretty short. Someone else said I should use a 1 1/2” brass waste adapter to connect the two pipes. Now I see this. Hmm. Which is the better route? Whoever connected them before me put a slip joint on the steel pipe, without a washer, and then put the PVC into the drain pipe. There was no seal! And because both pipes are 1 1/2-inch the plastic pipe only went inside the steel pipe about 1/8 inch or so. Of course, the plastic pipe keeps popping out under pressure. I'm trying to do it correctly. Suggestion on which route to go? Your idea seems like a good one to me and you're the pro! Thanks for giving back to the world!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Send me some photos, I’ll take a look. Info@ robertsessaplumbing.com

[@Spta97Vids]

Thanks. So it's not bad to use both? How about if I replace the nipple with pvc?

[@TweekerDan1984]

Thank you for some great information, the video was simple and clear to understand.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Thank You ! for checking out the video. Regards, Bob.

[@spkendrick]

This is ideal for sink drain lines correct?? With no pressure. I have a friend that has a kitchen sink and every time they drain the sink it starts leaking behind the wall and this looks like it might be ideal.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

This is for drain lines only, not for pressurized water lines. Thanks for checking out the video. Regards, Bob.

[@mrhempi1]

Thanks! You just took a lot of anxiety out of replacing an old well tank, I'll be able to sleep tonight

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Wow! Glad to help Rusty, thanks for watching!

[@juliorosenberg9968]

Can I stick (sleeve) a 4" PVC pipe into a 6" cast iron main line going through a basement wall that has a hole in the bottom of the cast iron as a permanent repair? I don't want to take the stone foundation apart or chop up the sidewalk and dig outside the apartment building. PLEASE HELP!!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Hard question to answer here on KZbin. If you want, send me detailed photos of the job site both inside and outside the wall. I’ll try to answer your question. Email them to [e-mail]. Regards, Bob

[@hitmancell6790]

WHERE DO YOU FIND A 1/2 INCH SLEEVED COUPLING/ADAPTER SUCH AS THE ONE YOU HAVE

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

That's 1 1/2", I would go to either of the big box stores or www.supplyhouse.com

[@hitmancell6790]

???.....HOW DO YOU FIT 1 1/2 OVER HALF INCH GALVANIZED PIPING?....WOULDN'T THAT BE TOO BULKY??? MY ISSUE IS: I HAD TO CUT MY BATHROOM SINK SUPPLY PIPES CAUSE THEY WON'T BUDGE,NEEDED SOME SORT OF ADAPTER BECAUSE I'M RUNNING PEX FROM THE CUT UP TO THE HOUSE,EVENTUALLY CHANGING ALL ELSE UNDER.

[@dantheman8642]

@@hitmancell6790 You sir should call a plumber. Save yourself some time, and some future water damage by the way it sounds.

[@hitmancell6790]

@@dantheman8642 HAAAAA....ALREADY FIXED N REPAIRED IT MYSELF... INDEED!

[@trevino37]

Outstanding...Exactly the info I needed to learn in changing my washer drain as a newbie...Awesome. Thank you for sharing.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Very welcome

[@dannydee9919]

Thanks for your video. I do have a question : You extracted the corroded nipple and replaced with another metal nipple than coupled with pvc. I believe there is a pvc nipple of the same size. Why not omit the metal nipple and use a pvc nipple?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

You could, I believe you can find schedule 80 threaded P.V.C. nipples. Or use a P.V.C. male adapter and convert to P.V.C, I'll what I have available at the time.

[@dannydee9919]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos ok cool. Thank you for answering back. I had to use the crawl space to access a clean out under my bathroom sink. There is so much scale and rust built up that i couldn't navigate the snake through pipes so i had to go under, , after removing the plug i discovered that about 3/4 of the pipe that connects to the main is pretty ugly. Im just going to replace everything including 2 elbows, wye to pvc

[@m.n.3490]

Very informative. And, in addition to showing several transitions, you also made me realize the difference between 'pipe', and 'tube'. I've been calling everything 'pipe'. But, seeing the difference in your video between in 1.5" galvanized 'pipe', and 1.5" stainless steel 'tube' - was educational. Is the 1.5" the OD on the 'tube', and the ID on the 'pipe'?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sudhirpatil3434]

Great- i was wondering how to join GI to CPVC pipe!! u just guided me to a quiet simple solution! Thx

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

This method in the video is specifically for DRAIN lines, not PRESSURIZED water lines. For GI water pipe you would need a workable male or female end to adapt onto a sharkbite fitting and then go on to cpvc.

[@timstewart1125]

What do I need to connect pvc to a rusty galvanize pipe. The reason I'm connecting it instead or replacing it is because it's under a road. So I want to connect on both sides of the road.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

The Husky series 4000 coupling are great for underground applications.www.anaco-husky.com/products/husky-4000-series/

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

This video relates to drain lines ( non pressurized drain pipes) for 1/2” galvanized water pipe you might be better off with dresser couplings, if you can fit them in. s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/Wal-rich-2804202-Submittal-Sheet.pdf

[@WorldsWorstE]

Where can I get these couplings and in different sizes?? I need them to go from 1" galvanized to cpvc,they would be perfect for the temporary fix..please let le k ow where to get em...they should sponsor you.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

I would go to supplyhouse.com. You'll have to search the site, but they should have what you're looking for!

[@johnanderson1149]

Thanks for the video. installing a disposal and coming out of the wall is a 1 1/2" copper pipe to chrome/steel?. I have to shift some things around and want to get rid of the 4" straight, and 2 90 degree copper pieces...

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad I could help John! Thanks for watching. Regards, Bob.

[@Spta97Vids]

I've noticed you stated to use Teflon tape and pipe dope. Should you use both? Also, if you were to use a male pvc fitting into the tee do you use dope and or tape?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

+Spta97Vids I use both, but you can certainly use one or the other. Using a Teflon based pipe joint compound gives you added lubrication which let's the fitting make up better.

[@Spta97Vids]

Thanks. Sorry I replied new. So it's ok to use both? How about if I replace the steel nipple with pvc? Should I use both then?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

I would and do! Thanks for watching,regards. Bob

[@user-fn4km5ko4o]

Thanks for the great information! I have galvanized pipe that is leaking just above ground level and I will probably have to dig down at least a few inches to cut the old pipe. Would this method of connecting the PVC to galvanized work if in contact with the ground or even buried? Thanks

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Depending on what State you're in and what the code requirement is, you may not be able to use the clamp I feature in the video, In New York we're not allowed to use them underground. Although it's done all the time! A better choice for underground are by Husky Couplings www.anaco-husky.com/products/husky-4000-series/. Which should be available at most plumbing supply houses. A better choice underground! Regards, Bob.

[@user-fn4km5ko4o]

Thank you so much for your reply! You've been very helpful! I live in North Carolina and the county I'm in tends to be pretty strict about things so that clamp probably isn't to code. I'm not having the work inspected, but being in the ground I just want to do it right the first time. I do have a few connections (done by someone else) under the crawl space with the same clamps you use in the video and for those they are holding up great.

[@patrickwhelan5703]

Bob, The house I grew up in (New York) and in which my parents resides, sprung a leak in the drain pipe of the double vanity. I live out of state but will visit to fix it. The question is :what drain pipes were MOST common in North East houses? The pix I get from my brother look as if the pipe is a cast mold. Galvanized? Could it be Iron? Probably will cut it after the P-trap and put the black boot on it... Your thoughts

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Most likely galvanized iron pipe, cut it back if you have decent wall thickness around the pipe use the correct size no hub coupling.

[@likasite]

what if i need to go from 1/2 inch galvanized to 1/4 inch pex? I am not seeing a coupler for this size. TY

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

These type of no-hub couplings are for wastewater, NOT pressure lines. 1/2" galvanized male or female? to 1/4" male or female?

[@likasite]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos I have 1/4" non-threaded galvanized (not able to thread). am converting to 1/2" PEX. This is a water line running to the fridge icemaker.

[@crimsonknight5575]

Got yourself a new subscriber in me.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Thank you so much! Appreciated!

[@gregmiller01]

Will a transition from an ABS pipe to a PVC coupler, that goes directly into a pool pump (suction side) work using the green cement? Or am I likely to have leaks?

[@warlordbino3780]

This is super helpful. Is it safe to do this underground? So in your example follow that T lower into the ground and transition the galvanized to pvc underground, bringing up the pvc

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Underground I would use couplings approved for underground use such as Husky couplings -www.anaco-husky.com/products/husky-4000-series/

[@kaylamarie8309]

I have a situation right now where i have a 2 inch piece of PVC pipe that is joined to what appears to be 2 in galvanized pipe via a rubber connector and said galvanized pipe is completely rusted out on the bottom to include the threads going into the drain pipe under the kitchen sink. This is all beneath the house in the crawl space. Number 1 I can't find a piece of 2 inch galvanized pipe anywhere or 2 inch pipe fitting/nipple to make a repair and how do you remove damaged threads that water has rotted the bottom out of? If I could get it out I might be able to put in a 2 inch pvc threaded joint and just run pvc 2 inch pipe to it. Advice?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Maybe this will help you - kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6aueYCvrreob80

[@kaylamarie8309]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos Iol I probably won't have to cut it..there's a 1/4 in rotted length on the bottom of the pipe all the way to where it screws in ..even the threads. Probably been there since the dinosaurs roamed the earth. Thanks for the info 👍 🙂

[@salamashurrab5593]

Currently working on a sewage treatment plant project and needs to connect a pressurized 36" Cast Iron pipe to 20" Carbon steel pipe which both carry the treated water, is't applicable to use lead for joining purpose, ?Thanks.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Can't say for sure, how much pressure are we talking about? Is the 36" pipe bell and spigot cast iron? Seems like a big difference going from 20" to 36", Are you going to gradually step up the sizes? Good question, I would need some more info before I could say for sure.

[@davidharrison3768]

Very informative great video

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rpflugner]

Can you transition from galvanized to pvc in a pressured system, approximately 50psi? My water pump piping, which has been in place for a long time is galvanized. Because I have decided to have a pool installed, some of the pipe needs to be re-routed and I would like to transition from the galvanized to a pvc. Is this the best way to do that?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

PVC is for drainage lines, for pressure you need to use c.p.v.c. And you would need to use a combination of I. P. S. ( screw) to glue c.p.v.c. Fittings. No no-hub couplings. They are not meant for high pressures.

[@kyakarrenamiyaan]

can something similar be done for main water line running inside the walls

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

These are for waste lines only, not meant for high pressure!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

No, the no-hub couplings are designed for drainage / waste lines only. Not meant for high pressure.

[@kennylunaaa5596]

Will this hold in the ground?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

For underground applications these are the go too couplings - www.anaco-husky.com/products/husky-7000-series/

[@kipkinnane1223]

Great video. What is the life of the neoprene gaskets? I had a 3 inch copper sanitary pipe that was used as part of an ejector pump system for the back end of my house. The copper pipe developed a leak and for a period of time was spraying waste water between the 2 bathroom walls. The walls are open and a friend of mine suggested that I replace the copper pipe with PVC. The walls are so now is the time to do it. I am a pretty good handyman around my house. On a scale of 1 to 5 how difficult is this project?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

It shouldn't be too difficult, but without seeing it I can't be 100% sure. If you're going to use P.V.C. pipe I would imagine you would glue the joints. But f you're going to join a section of the copper to the P.V.C. those clamps are bullet proof. I would rate the task as a 2.5 if you're a handy guy

[@josemessage1]

Would I be able to use those couplings for a galvanized water pipe

[@rydmwld1x1]

I bought an old house that has black iron pipe running underground. As I'm sure you've guessed we've had a few breaks. Will this method work to repair underground breaks long term or will I wind up having to repair it every few years? So far this is the most useful video I've watched. Thanks.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Black iron pipe for drainage? The couplings featured in the video are not approved for underground use. Although they're used all the time. Check these out-bit.ly/2JM8BEP. I would ditch the black pipe and retrofit with P.V.C.

[@KidsandKittens217]

I have a 1 1/4" pvc p-trap and I need to transition to the 1 1/2" metal pipe coming out of the wall. I have a neoprene gasket (it's probably been there for 10 to 30 yrs) that was joining the former metal p-trap of 1 1/4" diameter using the 2 torque coupling screws. It worked previously, but now I've replaced the metal p-trap with PVC and it leaks. I'm afraid to tighten the torque screw more for fear it will crack the pvc pipe. Can you give me any hints as to why it might be leaking now when the only thing I've done is switch to a pvc p-trap of exactly the same size as the metal?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

+KidsandKarma First, are you using the existing gasket/rubber coupling? Does it have a stainless steel band or is it all rubber?If it is existing, I would A. use a new one, B. I personally don't clamp light gauge plastic "p" traps (it'll smash). Does the pipe coming out of the wall have thread's on it? If not, you might want to use a short piece of 1 1/2" p.v.c. pipe and a 1/1/2" male adapter. Clamp it onto the pipe coming out of the wall with an 1 1/2" no-hub coupling. Use an 1 1/2" X 1 1/4" coupling nut and gasket, slip the 1 1/4" p.v.c. trap into the male adapter and tighten the nut and gasket. You should be good to go!

[@588158]

Bob I am rebuilding a stall shower. I cut the old galvanized trap and some of the drain line out, cut the pipes square and connected a new PVC drain line and trap to the galvanized drain line with a Fermco connector and torqued the connector at 60 inch pounds. I checked the slope on the PVC pipe and it is much less then 1/4 inch per foot. Should I cant the pipe to bring it to the correct slope or leave it alone?

[@philipvennell]

Hello bob I have an issue my p trap cracked past the nut... do I cut the rough part back a little heading into the wall and start a pvp coming out of the wall and start a whole new p trap?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Send me some detailed photos Philip and I'll work it out for you. Send them to [e-mail].

[@kennardb5967]

Thank you n I been teaching this. You on point

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad to help

[@priyamd4759]

Real helpful .... although I wonder if I get all those parts here in India and more importantly what are they called in local shops. In any case, it gives plenty of ideas for a problem I have. Thanks a lot, liked and subscribed.

[@speway]

Incredibly conscise. Enjoyed the video thoroughly and subscribed!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@kennethjohnson6223]

I heard somewhere pvc couldn't handle the pressure forever is a short term fix? I need to cut old metal early '70's metal pipes at above meter and re-route new pipes whatever type beside metal around pine trees and go back toward original metal pipe going to house and cut loose about 6 feet away from the house... smooth cut off metal pipe no threads on either end.... so joining smooth metal pipe ends to another new type of materials? Not buying $400 uponor propex expander tool....lol so dunno?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

We talking about water pipes (pressurized)? That video is for waste pipes only, not water pipes. What size and type of pipe are you working with?

[@kennethjohnson6223]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos probably 3/4 galvanized out of meter to the house? About 80 ft 3/4 pvc scheule 40 needed to re-route around pine trees and tie back in about 7 ft. from the house.... Might need a thread end at meter and connect pvc to galvanized near house..

[@billysingh8031]

Very good suggestion. Thanks

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Thanks for liking and taking the time!

[@Eastbaypisces]

I can transition to pvc to bring hot water outside from galvanized?

[@ferndogg4427]

I used a 1 1/2 inch x 1 1/4 inch coupling,nipple through the wall is 1 1/2 ,then put a 1 1/2 ptrap

[@ArmenArmenjs]

My goal is the bypass the meter shut off. Can No hub be used to transition to copper. Meter line is a 1" black pip comes inside the property. Like to place Main shut off ball valve inside the property and the house all copper. The problem is the T coupling used from copper line to sprinkler and house is under the dirt, and not much room. Each of them have their own ball valve after the T connection. Thx.

[@lgsr1]

Bob, I'd like to add a shut valve (ball) to the outside of my 3/4" galvanized, pressurized water line. Current location to thread out is in a bad spot. I'd like to cut out a small, 6" section of this 3/4" gal, and attach something like a rubber boot to the outside of this pipe. Can you recommend some ideas of how I can complete this project? Thanks.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Very little choice when working with 3/4" galvanized pipe. This video demonstrates how to transition between waste pipe which is not pressurized. If you can't get a thread onto the galvanized water line, my only thought would be a 3/4" "dresser coupling" which I would not recommend for a permanent solution. I use them to make temporary repairs until I can thread and make a permanent fix.

[@vgbr88]

I have a 1-1/2 inch pvc threaded male going into a galvanized steel tee. Is it okay to use teflon tape for this connection? Thanks.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Some disagree with me but I have no problem using Teflon tape for this type of connection. I would also recommend an application of MegaLoc or Blue Block pipe joint compound over the Teflon. That’s how I do it. Regards, Bob.

[@vgbr88]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos I have plenty of teflon tape and the old pro dope gray stuff leftover from when my dad was a plumber in Brooklyn over twenty years ago. Is the pro dope safe to use over the teflon on the pvc, or should i buy the MegaLoc? I had to make a hole in the bathroom wall to access this pipe, so I want to make sure it doesn't leak. Thanks for your help. I enjoy your videos very much.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

FixItYourselfAndSave ProDope brings back memories and they still sell it. I would go with the MegaLock. It’s Teflon based and shouldn’t effect the tape.

[@thediversityofmusic1070]

Great video. Thank so much-loved

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@TheRasputin67]

Great video thank you very much!!!!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Thank you for taking the time to visit! Bob

[@godinez35]

Hye man, thanks for the video. I just want ur opinion about how can i joint the 300mm NB DI with 300mm FRP pipe..hope u can advise me on that since i had problem to connect tie in for existing water supply for fire protection system. Tq sir. Good day.

[@evergreenavevergreenav8264]

Knob coupling, Laub Coupling... which is it? I can't tell exactly what the name of the coupling is exactly

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

No-hub coupling

[@neilwilliams8608]

Do you have a video on how to use male and female adapters (PVC) to metal pipe? Awesome video. Thanks a lot.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Not specifically, but to answer your question when screwing a P.V.C. male adapter into a metal fitting or a female P.V.C. adapter onto a male iron thread I use Teflon tape followed up by a product Blue Block or Grip.Check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6qqg5qsZ8ufnNU

[@jackjones3657]

Is there an advantage to ABS vs. PVC? Thanks for video!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

I don't know? In my area schedule 40 p.v.c. along with cast iron are the materials of choice. I very rarely if ever use abs only because you don't see much of it here in the N.Y. City area.

[@ARTMANIQ]

Hi Bob; what's the operating psi? Can this connection be buried underground? Thanks.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

+ART MANIQUIS Max test pressure on the coupling illustrated is approx 4.3 psi and technically they should not be buried. For underground applications, these are the couplings to use: abifoundry.com/upl/downloads/catalog/products/husky-4000-submittal-edb31228.pdf. Thanks for watching, Regards. Bob.

[@micaonyx5301]

Great video, just the info I needed, thanks for posting.

[@cooldog60]

I am trying to connect 3 inch pvc to cast iron. The cast iron is slightly smaller than the pvc. Can I still use these rubber connectors?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

This should help - www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=31287&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9uHOBRDtARIsALtCa96VqnjzifYOVvb1V9A8aa0uO_M-94_k5cF7DkK8dxeFQA95GLWpBVsaAv1_EALw_wcB

[@carrieconklin6253]

OK so, we had a water leak on the main water line at the connection point. Now the water line coming from the street is PEX then whoever fixed the original leak used bicycle tube, a radiator hose clamp and tape to connect to the galvanized.. The PEX pipe is 3/4, the galvanized is 1/2, what is the easiest way to fix the gap between the two..... we have e been told several different things, and it still continues to leak.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

The methods above are for drain pipe only! To make the transition from 3/4" to 1/2" I would go with a 3/4" X 1/2" Sharkbite fitting. Is the 1/2" galvanized a male or female joint? Depending on which you could use a male or female Sharkbite adapter. Place the 3/4" Sharkbite coupling onto the 3/4" PEX, then using a piece of 1/2" PEX tubing and connect to the Sharkbite adapter on the galvanized pipe. This may help you -kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3_UmGuVqcinrq8

[@hectormeza991]

Any idea on the psi it can handle??

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

No-Hub couplings are designed for waste lines only. They're not for use with water lines, I'd say 30psi tops!

[@benjones2004]

Thanks Bob! You saved me a lot of money and aggravation.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Thank you for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.

[@peterteo2226]

Bob, it;s 2020. Not sure if you're still on KZbin. Anyway, where can I purchases the 2 piece "No Hub Coupling"? Can the come in different sizes?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

What materials are you trying to connect?

[@dewinmoonl]

2:12 look how happy he sounds when he made the transition to pvc LOL those metal pipes could go take a hike haha. got some metal pipe that rotted under ground took dad 2 hours to dug it up

[@wjenks4916]

I'm having a problem removing a metal pipe (galvanized or steel) that's rusted through the bottom side and leaking. I've tried patching it up to stop leak, but that's not working well. how does a novice like myself get that pipe off without messing something else up? I think the metal pipe is actually the nipple, it's about 3-5 inches long, and it carries water out. HELP!!! LIST OF TOOLS AND SUPPLIES I NEED TO DO JOB!

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Check this video out! kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6aueYCvrreob80

[@user-gx7yn8pn9c]

What about going for steel to copper

[@lukesmith2725]

VERY insightful. Thank you!

[@dreadnought2024]

Is what I was thinking of doing. Just needed conformation. Thanks!! ;-]

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Glad I could help!

[@sbmang4927]

What if the inside of the drain pipe doesn't have any threading?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Has no threads or very worn threads? If they're worn down I try to cut new ones with a pipe tap. If no threads you're going to have to open the wall and replace the fitting.

[@trevosride]

Excellent explaination thanks

[@sweetiepienumber1]

How to connect 1.5" polypropylene to 1" hdpe? Thanks

[@RonRova]

This is exactly what I needed. Even the layout is very similar to mine, except I don't think the old nipple will come out. The idea of using tubular is new to me but definitely going to consider it! Thanks!!!!

[@MJ202020]

Thank you super clear explanation

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

michael shapiro Thank you for checking out the video! Regards, Bob.

[@rezavossoughi5671]

Thank professor, I learned from you.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Happy to help

[@roberthutchinson6480]

Thanks

[@matth523]

how about for pressurized supply lines? same or what?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Not for pressure lines, only drain lines!

[@matth523]

what do i for pressurized lines then?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

What materials are you trying to join?

[@matth523]

galvanized to pvc or should I just do it all with galvanized?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

I'll assume 1/2" pipe ? Same for all sizes, I would transition to all C P.V.C. You'll have to use either a male or female C.P.V.C. adapter. If you're screwing into a fitting use a male adapter, If you're screwing onto pipe use a female adapter. amzn.to/2aUM43O or amzn.to/2b6Lcgr C.P.V.C.for water pressure, don't use schedule 40 p.v.c. pipe which is for drains only!

[@simpleton8554]

Im not a plumber. But i do hone repairs. I have been trying to connect pvc to metal and it just keeps leaking ugh

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Simpleton They make a variety of no- hub / Fernco couplings to connect a variety of materials for a leak proof joint. What materials are you trying to connect?

[@simpleton8554]

Im not gunna lie bob its a mess. My granmother lives in a old trailer and can not afford a plumber. 2 half inch galvanized water pipes to the shower was sitting on a beam for about 15 or more years and rusted and blew out. I just figure buy 4 half inch couplings pvc and take a saw zaw knock out the bad in with the new. I did all that. I used the glue. The couplings was a little tight but i hammered em on. Still it leaks. Very high pressure. The system cant be redone its all rusted and stuck together. Has to be patched..:(

[@sirjohnahayfalcon]

how do a connect a galvanized water line without threads to pex???

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

What size are we talking about? Is this for heat or water? If 1/2" or 3/4' you're going to have to put a thread on the pipe and use a female pex adapter!

[@sirjohnahayfalcon]

oh wow, this is from a water main line. i appreciate it the guys at the plumbing shop gave me bad advice i really appreciate it no wonder it was leaking after i re-piped the whole house was annoying. ok guess i will have to go deeper and see if i can undoe the galvanized at the threaded part. probably have to use penatrating oil and heat? i really appreciate this advice

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

Take a few photos and e-mail them to [e-mail]. I'll see if i can guide you further!

[@sirjohnahayfalcon]

thanks alot bob you are superior here is what im talking about, i had to cut off the galvanized with a grinder, but its the pex side that leaks i used the metal washer and rubber gasket you can see the leak in this pic i7.photobucket.com/albums/y256/honigga/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsa7e68214.jpg

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

I'm guessing that's a 3/4' dresser coupling I'm looking at? That will take care of the galvanized side, and on the pex side I would go with a 3/4" female ips to whatever size pex adapter. Screw a 3/4" x 5" or 6" nipple into the pex adapter and slip the dresser coupling over the nipple. The only other choice is to thread the galvanized pipe in place, which can be risky. I'd stay wit the dresser coupling! good luck!

[@shewamkumar8448]

Hdpe or upvc pipe connect Karen ka different method bataye ply

[@lachellefarmer8265]

Very helpful thanks for sharing

[@dnznznfjsnsnsms9996]

What if galvanized pipe isn't threaded?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

That would be the ideal situation for a no-hub connection. Clamp right onto the pipe instead of the threads.

[@dnznznfjsnsnsms9996]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos perfect thanks a ton. You saved me some trips to Hardware store. God bless

[@dnznznfjsnsnsms9996]

@@BobsPlumbingVideos I have 3/4 galvanized pipe. So what size no hub do I need? 1 1/4, 1 in Id?

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

No such size, minimum size to my knowledge is 1 1/4”. For drainage pipes only.

[@ترانهحخذا]

Thanks for sharing this video. Very helpful to me.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

My Pleasure!

[@jholmes724]

Very we'll done my friend. Thank you so much.

[@BobsPlumbingVideos]

You're very welcome and thank you for the kind words! Please check in often........HAPPY PLUMBING!

[@hiamalkhameesi203]

hi I like your video

[@boashna]

bravo