So these don't have valves in them like an AAV, right?

Quarter turn after assembly to prevent stripping

In addition carry your black Franklin book in your back pocket

sounds like they tried to bend you over for the cap failure, thxs for sharing...

Thanks for the instructions. I only replaced the washer and springs and put it back together. However, when I have the water on and bring down the handle to shut it off, there is still a small stream of water coming out. If I lift the handle slightly up, then the water will stop. What do you think is the problem? 🤔

Best video on this topic on all of KZbin, thanks for your techniques and very clear explanation. Even years later you are still helping folks like me! Thanks for posting this! For some dumb reason the rental I own, built after 2005 has metal fixtures inside the toilets! Everything I ever worked on since the 80s always had plastic I am stunned at this install I have here, but your video solved it. Kudos!

Thanks for sharing your expertise. Nothing is ever textbook… I have what I’m guessing is a tee with a 3” galvanized pipe coming out from the wall that pvc just slides into and from that pvc the elbow connects to and up from there it connects to sink. Problem is once i disconnect everything except the 4” galvanized pipe coming out of the wall i have no way of adjusting a snake, hair grabber jobadoo or even a hanger. So I have to go underneath house to get a look at what m dealing with. Probably going to have to redo the pipes. Wish you were my neighbor

your set up works for your type work demographic, if it didn't you'll be the first to change it up

I have a question, and it has to do with memory. I recall grey rubber floor-mounted pneumatic toilet flushers. I would see them occasionally here or there, in rest areas.. Henry Ford Museum had them years ago.. I haven't seen them since the sixties. Do you know what I'm even talking about?

Try doing it horizontally, no help from gravity, not enough flux

Awesome---I'm 4 toilet vids into Bob's channel and now the lead soldering he's talked about is revealed here----huzzah! Thanks, Bob

Unbelievable how you know what to do with these odd old installs which are a mess most often. You are expert at knowing what you can do which wiĺl be the best option and be least amount of trouble. Your amazing !!!

The leak is possible to be a pipe not connected to the drain

This is great information. I once tried to connect a kitchen faucet with a roll of 3/8 copper tubing. I used a flaring tool to flare the end to connect to the faucet and then a cone washer and nut under it. That part worked great but oddly enough I just couldn’t get the 3/8 compression nut to seal the the shut off valve. I tried a few nuts and ferrules with and without pipe dope and different levels of tightening but they all leaked a little bit. I think the tubing was so out of round and that’s the reason. It would probably work better if I bought a Crome one like in the video. In the end I had to break down and use a stainless steel supply line lol. In my area almost all new home construction is done with ACCOR brand push on plastic shut off valves. And indeed most of these have the braided nylon supplies like you talked about. The ones for the toilets don’t even let you remove the braided nylon line as it’s part of the valve.

you got lucky you did not open-up a can of whup-ass, thxs for sharing...

Hi there, awesome video. I am installing a diesel slip tank in my pickup. I assume I should use a thread sealant with PTFE? I have a under tonneau cover slip tank therefore the pump will be below the highest level of diesel fuel, thus putting a lot of pressure on the pump connection where it screws into the NPT on the slip tank. Should I use teflon tape and thread sealant or just thread sealant with PTFE?

My hot water heater leaks when the furnace comes on. Is this have something to do with PRV?

What im not a fan of is CPVC water lines, especially old ones. Have seen too many of them broken when accidentally hit. Have had to wet vac many bathroom floods due to them breaking. As far as supply lines, have to admit, have gotten away from from copper lines in favor of the braided stainless lines myself. Have seen, but never used, the Delta one click lines. And personally, I'd never install any of those new water heaters that hang on the wall. It's a "tankless" job.😉 Take care, Bob. Enjoy your videos!

Bob. I recall chrome tubing sold in 6 ft lenghts that you would cut to size. Then you would bead the tube faucet end and use a nut, brass friction ring and cone washer to connect to the faucet.

Do you have to shut water off to replace the diverter?

I use alittle of all of them I use a lot of PVC supply lines white and gray . But on higher end that will be seen easily I’ll good with copper lines and most the copper lines on toilets will be fixture matching. Alone with matching supply stops

Old school plumbing- which is great to see 👍🏻

I started plumbing in 1970 you had to be on the money with rigid pipe nowadays everybody's a plumber My uncle would never approve of this if he was around he would go nuts with the flex lines on water heaters😊 as far as I know flex lines are not legal in New York City but don't quote me

Thanks for your videos man. You are eminently helpful!

Thank you for the explanation. I followed your suggestions, and got to work. I was a bit awkward getting to the nut, but the hacksaws and a big dose of persistence paid off. Probably the best lesson of the video.

Bob, I like the way you think. A bit of extra detail effort.

Tested and true methods can never be beaten by the “newer” stuff. Love the new vids, Bob! Even as a young mechanic I love learning the old school way of things; comes really handy when working in the boroughs.

Do you work on furnaces and boilers?

Valuable knowledge to have. I was a flooring installer in the 70s and we often removed toilets for the installation and often needed to install new supply lines. The lines were always chromed copper lines and they always needed to be bent and formed to fit properly. Wish I had known about the spring device.

Thank You Bob. I Always Like Your Professionalism And Attention To Detail.

was taught as a union apprentice in the 70's to bend supply tubes with a tube bender, I enjoy your expertise...glad your back doing tutorials..."BITD" p-traps did not swivel, you plumb in dead nuts ctr, I can't help to notice what goes down today

You are so right Bob. Solid copper looks way better when on view. Besides it will make a much better more reliable connection with less chance of leaks that will last a long time

I can bit a bit OCD at times, but I've never thought twice about my toilet supply line. Not sure it looks that much better anyway. Something I would worry about is something accidentally hitting that line. The rigid line would result in damage. The stainless steel would just flex out of the way and its a non issue. Have to say, I'm sticking with stainless steel flex. More power to the people who prefer the solid lines.

Semi solid copper all the way!! Flexible should only be used for a temporary fix

Good seeing you again, Bob, hope your Fourth of July was a good one. Thanks for the information, always learn something watching your videos. Thanks again.👍👍

Excellent explanation Bob, thank you so much !

I inserted a plastic feral on a plastic tubing, feeding into a shutoff valve for my under the sink water filter 2- cartridge system and when turned the water on, the plastic tube along with the feral, shot out water came gushing out. Maybe I did not tighten the nut enough?

Thank you! This helps! Got a sweet hacksaw now lol

I just searched "tank lever nut stuck" and saw your video. You just bailed my butt out. Thank you for this!!!

Very nice install.

Wonderfully detailed! Thanks so much

Thank you!

Great video. The multi-toolI looks like it would make quick work. I didn't have one so I simply used a diagonal cutter and was able to bend and cut the top flat horizontal part then I used a small drill bit to make small holes down the vertical part then used a screwdriver to pry it out. Worked quickly without any possibility of cutting the stainless sink.

Thanks for the tip. I Used a dremel tool to take off the locknut, it was a metal one and had completely fuzed with the threads. Would recommend having a good number of grind wheels as i went through close to 10 since it was a tight and awkward area...those wheels are so fragile. Other than that, i took the nut it's self very slow as to not damage the tank it's self.

We use duct tape and roof flashing cement…….. just kidding great information filled video.

Thank you so much for your wonderful idea! It worked for us.

Why didn't you put some screws in that flange? That toilet is being held down by the lead pipe, is that normal?

Thanks for the video. I need to unscrew pipes that have pipe dope applied to them. How can I safely remove copper water supply lines attached with pipe dope before replacing them with braided water supply lines? Is there a specific technique to use with copper lines, water supply lines, and PVC?

Bob, you're the best.

Great job sir! You've revealed your personal knowledge and high standards with your excellent video.