How to Lead Belay - Top Tips from the Professionals!

The Climbing Nomads - We explore how to lead belay safely and effectively and include some tips about position, arresting a lead fall and soft catches.
You can also check out our How to Top Rope / Bottom Belay Tutorial: • How to belay - bottom/...
Check out our gear review for the Edelrid Ohm
• EDELRID Ohm
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Brett & Sophie, the Climbing Nomads; Chasing our dreams and sharing our journey around the UK and Europe in our motorhome looking for the best rock climbing, bouldering, and adventures!
We are not the best climbers in the world, or climbing the hardest grades but we are totally obsessed and have a life long passion for climbing. So whether we're trad climbing on sea cliffs or climbing long multi-pitch mountain routes, sport climbing in Spain or crushing boulder problems in Fontainebleau, join us on our adventures as we Vlog our life on the road!
We are both qualified rock climbing and mountain instructors, holding the UK Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor (MCI) qualification and are members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI).
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[@dorismieschbuehler6426]

The part on the soft catch i.e. lighter climber heavier belayer was very interesting to me, thank you.

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Thank you, glad you found it useful 👍 Sophie

[@ameertrace2253]

instablaster.

[@4-SeasonNature]

I felt the same.

[@Fred-oz3tw]

thank you for really keeping it quiet simple, so you can remember afterwards :)

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Hi Fred, Glad it was helpful! 🙂 If your interested we have number of other climbing tutorial videos that might be worth checking out: kzbin.info/aero/PLwLYTnsgqjj9bQ3rXIi7lMchL0Jy8R0UI Thanks for your comment 👍

[@ScottBTTuk]

Sat here like “that looks like the unit...” sees logo and circuit board “THATS THE UNIT!”😂

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Yep, they were kind enough to let us do some filming there when it was quite.

[@ScottBTTuk]

@@TheClimbingNomads nice! It’s my local wall😁

[@tilen873]

That was very clear and helpful thank you. I especially liked how you actually illustrated what you were talking about.

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Hi, thank you for your comment 🥰

[@AirborneLRRP]

This was awesome, well done guys. I am going to try it tomorrow

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Thank you 😊 hope it helps!

[@garethjones3227]

Cool tutorial. Very well explained especially the weight difference bit, i have like 35kg on my belayer so he's terrified of me falling lol. I'm a super noob so when i do the lead climbing course this vid will have come in very handy. Thanks

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Hi Gareth, thank you for your comment! Glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful. We’ve done a review in the Edelrid Ohm too-a device designed to minimise the impact of a fall if there is a weight difference between climber and belayer (Brett and I use it a lot!) EDELRID Ohm kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYPRf2Wqoq6np7M

[@mcodyw]

Great video, well explained.

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Thank you!

[@rosangelafrita2028]

Very clear and informative, thank you!

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Thanks Rosangela, Glad it was helpful!

[@melissaadam8254]

Awesome video!!! Really clear and helpful and great video footage to fortify speaking points.

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Glad it was helpful! 😊

[@salbraddy1461]

Thanks for the vid! I'm only just learning to lead and found it super informative. I'm super light and kinda concerned about high-impact slams into the wall lol... will definitely have to make sure anyone who belays me knows about the soft catch

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Thank you for the feedback :) there’s a device called the Ohm made by Edelrid which really helps a light belayer/heavier climber-we made a review about it too and I’ve found it super helpful when I’m belaying! Sophie

[@andersonboy620]

Very good video, thanks! I would add that sometimes it is useful to unclip the first quickdraw, the one closer to the ground if this one is too close and the climb kind of overhang, this way the belayer takes a more vertical pull instead of being pulled towards smashing on the wall.

[@calimon00]

At what point would this happen? Would the lead climber have to down-climb after clipping into the second QuickDraw?

[@andersonboy620]

It is the belayer who sometimes can do it, or some other helpful person

[@PeterSodhi]

Great video

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Thank you. Hope it was useful 👍

[@mikohayle]

Good one

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Thanks. Hope you found it useful 👍🏼

[@atylerpearce]

I'm new to climbing here. 3 months. Doing 5.9s. Just wanted to say I love how you say bee lay. That is all. Thanks for the video. Carry on.

[@mihax209]

Thanks for a very informative video! What are your thoughts regarding using a small hop as a belayer to provide a soft catch? I found that it's more dynamic (i.e. the fall itself dictates how much cushioning there is, as opposed to moving forwards, where I found I need to be more precise in how much I need to move, to make the catch soft enough and not too soft)

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Hi, thanks for your comment :) a hop works too, just got to make sure the belayer can stay in control and the hop doesn’t turn into lift off/ slamming into the wall (affects small belayers mostly). Whichever method works for you and you’re used to executing in the moment :)

[@zalimzeher4261]

Okay it's my first time learning Lead Climbing. I just wanted a quick tip on how to get rid of fear of falling? I know the fall is just a meter or 2 meters or maybe even even 3, but how do I get rid of fear of falling perminently? I really want to do this.

[@iambrettiskatealot]

thanks! this was great review before taking my lead cert test today. (i passed!)

[@TheClimbingNomads]

Congratulations! Glad it helped you revise!

[@ralfrussel1950]

1:00 I don't like the position of your thumb. Thumb and index finger should always form a loop around the rope i.e. tips touching. Are you used to unlocking a Grigri to pay out slack fast?

[@vlaaady]

Big question: not enough examples how to take slack.

[@Pal0mino35]

Nice tutorial over all, but why so noisy music, before you start talking??

[@cycloneranger5354]

good tips, horribly annoying music