How To Maintain Your Workmate 425

[@olid512]

Thank you for this video. If the belt is connected both sides, turning one handle will move both equally. My belt is off one side so i can tightened at an angle for awkward shaped items. I don't mind spinning both handles separately.

[@chriscas-ToolAficionado]

Thanks for the tips. I got a 550 for free and its been very handy so far. I'm gonna browse your channel for more insight and custom attachments!

[@WorkMateGuy]

Congratulations on your new 550. I know you are going to enjoy using it. Cheers!

[@felixf5211]

Good video. Had no idea there's a Workmate community. Yes, bamboo is very rigid. It is often used in high-end loudspeakers for that reason. I have an original WM, a 425, and the Harbor Freight version. Thanks to your videos, I now know there are different '425s - mine is a type 5. The 425 is setup as a side table next to one of my benches. The HF version is poorly built; I use it for painting, grinding - essentially where the condition of the support doesn't matter. I don't recommend it. Love the original. Very good build quality; surprisingly rigid. Takes literally a few seconds to unfold and fits almost flush against a wall. A fantastic product. I'll lube the benches. Haven't done it at all in all these years. Should make a nice difference.

[@WorkMateGuy]

Felix F Hey, Thanks for dropping in and sharing your experience with your Workmate. I would be interested to know what kind of work you do with your Workmates. And, Welcome to my channel.

[@felixf5211]

Thank you for the kind welcome. Had to think about the question. Other than general tinkering and futile attempts to fix things, I like to work on old tools. Old machinery in general. Industrial vises are a personal favorite - 11 mounted in the shop and a whole bunch more scattered around. Have a small vise on the 425 - a Stanley 700. Not sure if you're familiar with the tool, though you'll likely recognize it once you see it. Stanley made these for decades. It's small corner vise. Ridiculously handy. I also have a metal lathe. The 425 sits right next to its bench and holds the machinist toolbox and assorted bits and pieces. It's nice to have a work surface in that location that's not covered with metal chips. I like your idea for a bottom shelf. Will likely install one. The 425 is stationary in this setup, but it's easy enough to pull out if need be. The original WM I'm a bit careful with, as I feel lucky to have found one in such good condition. It's setup when there's an instant need for more space. Happens more often than I care to admit. Used it just now, in conjunction with a big, heavy 6" drill press vise to work on the jaws on a monkey wrench. Normally, however, it doesn't see a lot of grime - that's what the HF version is for. Here's an example of its use: Last night I needed to measure something that was just machined on the lathe. My big surface plate is, well, big. It's on the other side of the shop, too. Literally, it's like a tombstone. I also have a much smaller 9x12 surface plate that I setup on the WM and was able to do the deed painlessly and easily without having to move to another bench. I typically use the original WM every 2-3 days. The Harbor Freight version is very poorly built. The quality of the materials is subpar, and its action has little in common with a real WM. It is used for painting, holding bench grinders, a support for a miter saw and the like. I don't work with wood very often, and I'm not very good at it at all, but sometimes there's no other option. It so happened that it broke the other day; one of the wood panels cracked pretty deeply. IMO, it doesn't make sense to fix it. Saw a used WM at a garage sale nearby. May buy it. Not in great condition, but for this I only need a stable support and would rather not have another HF model. There's another variable here. I also work on automotive paint: compound, polish, install ceramic coating, etc. Clearly, this necessitates a very clean environment. That's why I first started using a WM. It can be pulled outside, doors closed, and the metal dust doesn't hit the cars(s).

[@WorkMateGuy]

Well, it sounds like your really putting your Workmate to good use. And, you must have a much bigger garage shop then I do. Lol.

[@brianmoore9047]

The belt came off of one side of our 425. We have tried to get it back, but no success. Do you have a video that shows how or a tip that helps? Thanks.

[@WorkMateGuy]

Get one end of the belt completely on one sprocket. Take the other end of the belt, slide it partially on with at least one tooth holding it on. Then turn the crank at that end in a direction that will feed the belt on the rest of the way. This is similar to the way fan belts are put on.

[@1stinlastout165]

My workmate is 40 years old and still as good as the day it was made , that'll be down to all the parts being metal I guess!

[@stevenlightfoot6479]

Very helpful. If you lubricate the worm gears with a petroleum product, is there any risk it will eventually degrade any plastic parts nearby? I was thinking of using some beeswax.

[@WorkMateGuy]

I suspect petroleum products might eventually harm the plastic. Beeswax would work and Superlube would as well. Cheers!

[@tony5006]

Best thing for lubricating the leg stay clips is Silicone spray, Any other type of grease attracts dust.

[@WorkMateGuy]

Great tip!

[@SilentEarthMovers]

Agreed. Alternatively, you can use an lubricant labeled as a Dry Lube.

[@kathleenzimmerman8227]

I can't believe I missed this one before. My Workmate is tighter than a drum and I just figured it would take some time to break in. I hit all the points with WD40, but, that hasn't really solved the problem. What kind of oil are you talking about? Maybe 3 in 1 or something else? I have always heard that you should not put Vaseline (petroleum distillates) on anything rubber because it will disintegrate it. I'm not sure if that's true, but, I have never done it. I will most likely use lithium white grease there. Keep up the great work! :-D

[@WorkMateGuy]

Kathleen Zimmerman Hi Kathleen. I used 3 in 1 oil, but you can use lithium grease or WD40 depending on your needs.

[@jeffhebert48]

I have use 3 in 1 oil also and have not had any issuse

[@felixf5211]

The WD in WD40 stands for water displacement. It is not a lubricant; it's a solvent.

[@markej4801]

@WorkMateGuy, I just received and assembled my 425, type 6 just yesterday and am thoroughly enjoying your various vids--good job on all! I do have a question. While cleaning up after assembly I found a small spring on the garage floor that looks very similar to the springs on the 425, but I can't seem to account for any lost springs on the unit. The spring in question is about finger length and about the same diameter as the other 4 springs (2 for the main lifting function and 2 for the base panel to lift to vertical). Is there a 5th spring placement I haven't found yet, or might this have just been loose in the box, or maybe even just something my wife had in items she was sorting??? Not sure. Any thoughts you might have would be appreciated. And thanks for the maintenance tips, they'll be used immediately!

[@WorkMateGuy]

I suspect one was in the box you did not notice when unpacking. Other wise, you would have spotted its home. :-)

[@Dave8972]

Thanks for these! I just bought a 425, and these are helpful. One question... I saw in another video that you clamped down a tapered piece of wood. How do you do that when the handles turn in sync? Remove the syncing band? Or just crank, and deal with it. Thanks!

[@WorkMateGuy]

Hi David - The cranking mechanism should slip to accommodate the variance in the width of the work piece. If it does not slip then you might have to temporarily slip the belt off of the gears. Thanks for stopping by and posting your question. Cheers!

[@Dave8972]

@@WorkMateGuy Thanks!

[@Venomator.]

@@WorkMateGuy Hiya WMG, great videos you make, clear and concise, thank you! As for removing the sync to the handles to turn either individually - I believe by using two fingers you simply slide the white cog part, which runs the interlinking ‘chain’, against its holding spring towards the turning handle. This is quite stiff when new, but once that cog is clear of the pins from their detents the handle will turn independently of the other, which will retain its position until you release the cog to settle the pins into their detects again. This is all done under spring tension so you have to maintain the pressure on the cog release until you’ve finished your tightening/loosening. I think I have that right and hope it helps? Cheers, Rog from UK... 👍🏻

[@tobedetermined4180]

Hello! I need to replace the wood top on my workmate 425. I been looking for the measurements on line. But all I found was that the work space is 20x29. Could you please tell me the measurements of every piece of wood on top as well as the thickness please. By the way thank you for producing these videos, they are very informative

[@WorkMateGuy]

Here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXyudolti8ihnrc

[@tobedetermined4180]

WorkMateGuy thank you for the link to this video! I found that video some days ago. I used it and now I have a new top for the new to me workmate 425. I appreciate the effort you take to produce such helpful videos.

[@kevinunger433]

I just bought the 425 and the two larger boards will not tighten up. The boards just slide out of the slots , any suggestions?

[@WorkMateGuy]

Congratulations on your new 425. If you push them all the way back into the smaller part of the slot they should be tighter. Remember, they will not tighten all the way down to immovable. They were not designed to be so. Use the crank handles to clamp everything together. Also, you may have to rotate the middle board for different clamping spacing. Cheers!

[@kevinunger433]

@@WorkMateGuy OK maybe that helps I’m used to my dad‘s old workmate from the 80s I believe and both boards were solid. And this one has three

[@jt9498]

I have a WM425 Type 5. Looks identical to the Type 6. Wonder what the difference is? Anyone know?

[@WorkMateGuy]

Hmmm... not sure unless the panels or color of the frame.