How to Make 3D Printed Tool Drawer Organizers

[@stephanb2006]

I heard one of my students watching this video in class today during our project provoke time and was all set to question why they were watching a video about taking a closer look at someone's drawers in school. I did not expect to be redesigning our CNC tool cabinet at the end of our conversation. (:

[@jacquesrooswinkel9954]

Great organizers and very good workflow in Fusion! Thanks a lot for sharing!

[@Clough42]

You are welcome. I hope it helps.

[@nadam35]

going to start printing these tonight, thanks for sharing!

[@davomontgomeryda3rd]

From the intro I thought this was going to be about your boxers or briefs, wasn’t sure which drawers you were referring to ;)

[@chrism997]

Man I really enjoyed this video. The way you went through Fusion 360 was amazing. As a new beginner in Fusion I often find myself frustrated at the lack of how to get done what I need to get done. The few things you showed here can be carried over into so many other areas. Thank you for taking the time to do this and to share for others to benefit from!

[@jbtwist]

Wow. Incredible organization and functional use of 3D prints - nice work! I have no idea what the tools are, but I appreciated the tutorial in Fusion ;)

[@a1woody11]

James, could you make them hook together like say some kind of dovetail so they could be hooked as you made them Joe

[@salvadorebertolone]

To keep them sliding around you could print them with interlocking tabs or clips so as you add more they can just keep snapping together.

[@Clough42]

Several people have suggested that. It's a good idea.

[@GoldenSlothRacing]

@@Clough42 check out Jeremy Schmidt here on youtube, he has a workbench with drawers that have a locking system on the trays at a set distance mounted to the underside, holds everything in place and easy to move on a grid.

[@cryptology3975]

Packing tape on the bottom.

[@notsonominal]

@@Clough42 you could also make some recesses for magnets on by each corner, and glue in magnets with opposing polarities and allow them to snap together in a grid.

[@D4rk51d332]

@@notsonominal that was my first thought.

[@quantumfrenzy74]

Exactly what I need without realizing I needed it! I like your er20 collet tray especially. I'll need to design some vertical holders to put on my enclosure for individual jobs as well. Cool, another g0704/3dprinting enthusiast. Subbed.

[@Clough42]

Oh, that's a good idea. I still haven't gotten to milling out a rack on the enclosure for my vise handle, dead blow hammer and air gun. I should be ashamed.

[@kylehuber3323]

How is the g0704? I have the g0759.. Was thinking of getting a 704 for cnc

[@Clough42]

I'm very happy with it. The biggest limitation is probably the 2200RPM spindle. If it had a 10,000 RPM spindle, it would be amazing.

[@raulrrojas]

Excelent example and inspiration! As a bonus, a practical tutorial on Fusion 360!! thank you,

[@woodscreekworkshop9939]

Very nice if you to share the files. What kind of audio interface box is on your desk just to the left of you? BTW, my wife will be mad at you if I buy a 3D printer.

[@Clough42]

The interface is a Mackie Onyx Blackjack. It sounds great, but the WIndows drivers are weak.

Couldn’t we save same print filament if we made it hollow on the underside? Or the savings aren’t worth the hassle?

[@Clough42]

I did some testing and found that the required support material pretty much offset the savings.

[@toms4123]

what a great how-to. fusion tutorials are often very theoretical for want of a better word. this will help me lots

[@Clough42]

Thanks! I agree. Sometimes you just need to make something.

[@jon_raymond]

Your Thingiverse uploads are how I originally found your wonderful channel.

[@Clough42]

Oh, cool! I should probably go back and see if I need to add some more links. Thanks!

[@robertburns2415]

The other advantage of printing with radius is they use a less material to make the part. Not a significant amount per part but over time it really adds up. Kind of like pennies in a jar.

[@Clough42]

I hadn't thought about that.

[@Dr3450]

when extruding the cut away portions through the whole base you should extrude to the end face, when doing that if you make adjustments the extrusion is stuck to the face no matter what, the way that you are doing it, if you make changes that are outside the constraints of the extrude cut then you will also have to adjust the extrude again.

[@Clough42]

True. I just didn't, because I was lazy and I don't think I'll ever be making these parts longer. If I do, and if it bites me, I'll remember this comment. :)

[@SimjetAU]

Thanks a lot for this video. It was extremely helpful. I have the same TTS aftermarket system but mine are ER25 collets so larger. I used all of your techniques to remake for the larger sizes. I printed the first ones and they are fantastic. I watch all of your videos. I really like your style and also they way you convey everything. It all just makes sense.

[@DavePalmer]

Thank you so much for including the Fusion files! I'm in the process of completely redoing the storage for me machinist tools. Such a well thought out system you have created. Fusion files are super easy to customize too!

[@mike2yis]

Thanks for this, I would have totally done this a different way, but I appreciate seeing how someone else approaches the same problem. Great video.

[@scottwillis5434]

In what way?

[@btan4209]

Thank you, for sharing , very smooth concept to product flow. You are so very skilled.

[@Clough42]

Thank you.

[@gregcelaya955]

New to your channel - Thanks. I also am interested in learning about the 3d printing world. Any direction you can advise? What about 3d machine advice also?

[@bruce150]

Excellent video as always James. Your Fusion 360 work is amazing. And I have always admired your drawer organizers. Thanks for solving that mystery! Now I can stop looking for them on Amazon!

[@Clough42]

Yeah. I get a lot of questions about them. Glad you enjoyed it.

[@JosephStory]

The only question this video leaves me asking is, "What's your words-per-minute on that keyboard?"

[@chadkrause6574]

Do you think you could upload your file for your ISO30 tool holders for your FM30 spindle?

[@MaximusPham]

The Fusion360 tutorial was awesome! Following to see what other cool stuff you build.

[@frankfarklesberry]

It's beautiful and meticulous. Perfect. Having said that, how many hours would it take to do that with all my stuff? LOL

[@alkaline3mc]

It's too bad you already made all these because Gridfinity is perfectly suited for this very thing.

[@stevemitchell1265]

how about showing how to make similar holders for a set of micrometers? and showing how to have the tray be hollow or honeycombed internally yhet still ahve top and bottom solid. Thanks.

[@Mottersmotters]

Great video nice to see some order. You could always add some sort of dove tail or dog bone shape to join them together. Both parts have a female side and you join them with a male bit. The end will just have a female and not a clip on show

[@Clough42]

That's a good idea. The tabs could be short so they only engage at the bottom and could be broken off easily for the end pieces.

[@Mottersmotters]

@@Clough42 yes I agree but I would use a part that connects both parts together low down that way your not removing anything and if you change your mind at a later date they can still be connected as the females hole will still be there. Also could put the same female on the front and back side if you want to connect a lot together to form the whole draw that way there isn't rows as they have all become one with the dog bones or what ever type of connection you use. Just an idea

[@Clough42]

@@Mottersmotters ahh... Yes. A dog-bone that fits into the bottom of both parts. That's a good solution to keep the parts easy to reorganize later.

[@Jim-en7zd]

I am trying to figure out how to do this in FreeCad. Does anyone have a link to a video for that? TIA.

[@ascendtools5670]

Very creative design and handy organizer. Need to speak with you, how do I get in touch with you?

[@bernardolozano7429]

Man, you’re so lucky, I daydream about having equipment like that

[@Clough42]

I enjoy it. Though it seems no matter what tools I have, I can always come up with projects that are just slightly out of reach. It's a sickness, I guess.

[@petera1033]

Just discovered your channel - informative. educational, helpful and of great usefulness - thank you. Pete

[@j.d.7321]

Not bad, I would have put a small counter bore on the bottom for a magnet to help keep in place as the drawer opens and closes.

[@jameslee522]

How many walls? What holders are these. Printed some and they do not fit the tormach tool holders.

[@sintactic]

I have a 3d printer on order, and being able to print my own shop organization pieces is what pushed me over the edge to finally get one. This is the perfect video for me! Super helpful to see how you approach modeling in Fusion 360 and get me more excited about doing this for my own tools. Well produced and edited too…this was just the good stuff without half an hour of fluff as you sometimes see. Thanks for sharing!

[@fnordingers]

Look for the gridfinity system by zack freedman

[@jw200]

Printing is easy, modelling is very time consuming, measuring etc.. Im complete beginner in Fusion or any 3D modelling software, for me it takes hours to make basic stuff. Im still learning..

[@joeblock62]

Thanks for the quality video & quality build.

[@Clough42]

You're welcome.

[@1048matt]

great video, really opened my eyes on how to easily design tool holders! thank you

[@partsdave8943]

Placing a Small drop of super glue, or hot glue, between them will also help hold them down. I kept expecting to see you perform a Shell on the backside to reduce your amount of plastic. Perhaps not a good idea considering your use case. Nice video.

[@Clough42]

The part is printed with 25% infill, so it's 3/4 air. With injection molding, shelling is really the only way to avoid making it solid. With 3D printing, there are other options.

[@ajhartmanaero]

Funny I just came across this since I recently started 3D printing a bunch of toolbox organizing thing like schaller bins and socket holders. I printed my socket holders with two spaces for 10mm sockets since they get used (lost) all the time.

[@JohnGrimsmo]

Those look great, nice work!

[@Clough42]

Thank you very much. And thanks for checking out my little channel.

[@chrisj4570g]

VERY nice organizers. Ill be printing some tomorrow. Specifically the R8 and ER 40 holders.

[@Clough42]

Cool. Have fun!

[@stawolf73]

Great video. I’m looking to develop something similar for my drawers tools but I may add some lock tab system on each side so I can attach them for stability and have the flexibility to add one if required instead of a full rack.

[@Clough42]

That's reasonable. I started with a set of ten collet holders, and I wanted them all in a row in the drawer, so the large racks were convenient.

[@ryanbernier2306]

Good afternoon Curious what brand of 3D printer you are using? May start playing around with 3D printing and need somewhere to start looking Thank you in advance

[@Clough42]

It's a unicorn. It started life as a MakerFarm frame kit. I added the electronics and I'm running my own extruder design.

[@Wauk9390]

Very nice, enjoyed watching.

[@theflashjaxx]

Forget cutting foam for tool box trays this is the way to go hands down, if for nothing else THIS is the reason I need a 3D printer. Genius AND gorgeous!!!

[@Clough42]

Thanks!

[@juliussokolowski4293]

Horowitz & Hill - The Art of Electronics... Never leave home without it! Great content James!

[@BZT-1]

If you ran a batch injected plastic, I'm shure they would sell. I'd buy some.

[@Clough42]

I have thought about selling them 3D-printed, but I think the cost would be higher than most people would want to pay, just due to the slow print times. It would also mean a very large variety of different trays. Then again, that would mean that I would need to acquire all of the tools to design the trays...that's not all bad!

Excellent video 👍 Are you using 100% infill? If so, why that much?

[@Clough42]

No. These are printed with 25% rectilinear infill and three solid layers top and bottom. The camera angle makes it hard to see that when printing.

[@vahpr]

Nice! I never use primitives in Fusion but for this it's perfect. Since cracking open my 3d printer I too have found many uses for making useful shop stuff, dust collection adapters, organizers, not to mention little figures the wife loves :) Checked out and commented on your lathe VFD conversion last year - wow, you look great! Hope it wasn't anything serious other than a strong desire to get fit. Thank for posting.

[@Clough42]

Thank you. Yeah, I finally just decided it was time. I dropped 80lbs, and my wife dropped 30.

[@edtheduck2571]

What was the print time for the 2 examples

[@wasnhberg3945]

check out Alexandre Chappel

[@microrails]

Vary informative, Thank You.

[@amorton94]

Just stumbled across this channel. I like it! Subbed!

[@Clough42]

Welcome!

[@charlesgrady249]

Same here. found your channel and I enjoyed you workflow. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@IncredibleSolv]

youtube showed me this I am also just as happy

[@telelaci2]

I don't understand this 3D printing world. People "share" things but actually share things in a very stupid file format, in stl files. That kind of 3D format drops all 3D model attributes, and although 3D programs are able to load it , they can't modify it. They can't even reconstruct the original geometry, because it is not an exact, but an approximated, tesselated geometry format. What you "share" that is not modifiable anymore. Its a simplification of your original 3D model. Your sphere is not sphere anymore but a thing from million triangles. Have you guys ever heard about open source HW or SW or such things. Whats the purpose sharing in an unmodifiable format ? Who invented this idiocy ? Why everybody follows this habit without thinking and criticism ? There are many "exact" 3D formats to share 3D models, STL is one of the worst of them. Its not your fault Clough you just follow the others and that stupid thingverse site. You all should share real 3D models like .iges or .step, and sharing the printable .stl is only secondary or optional.

[@Clough42]

No disagreement here. STL is fine for distribution of a final product, but it's a mess if you want to try to modify the parts. It's especially messy, since so many tools produce files with incorrect normal vectors or broken surfaces.

[@Clough42]

I just uploaded STEP files and F3D archives for all (most) of the holders in the Thingiverse project, so you can modify to your heart's content.

[@telelaci2]

@@Clough42 "I just uploaded STEP files" - awesome Clough, thank you very much. I knew it was not your fault or your will, you just followed the "standard" , and everybody shares .stl . I just simply can't understand why. Does anybody know why thingverse and other 3D sites prefer .stl ? Open source things could develop, people could modify it, fix it, add new functions to it, and then reupload it. The products could be developing. What can I do with an .stl file ? I can print it then I like it or not, that is what I got.

[@JohnDoe-rl9pp]

It's a historical oddity, like so much of manufacturing. PCB making still uses gerber files, even though they're a terrible format for all the reasons you've listed for STLs. They persist because every piece of software can make them, and every manufacturer can read them. The worst of the bugs have been smoothed out, so things mostly get built correctly. New formats never get enough traction to displace them, because no new features are really required at the moment. Inertia. It's an amazing thing.

[@telelaci2]

@@JohnDoe-rl9pp Hi John, you misunderstand me. The .stl as the manufacturing format: ok, no one cares, it can do the job. (at least these days, yet) I was talking about the 3D sharing format. This site is ok: grabcad.com/ , because you can convert/edit/fix the models before 3D printing or milling, or whatever manufacturing. But this one is crap: www.thingiverse.com/ , because many people can't use the shared files, they would need a tiny little bit different size or shape. Or they just want to fix an error, or they just want to improve it somehow. But the .stl is unmodifiable. Good for printing though, but crap for sharing.

[@stevenjkirby2020]

Lovely looking PETG prints! Which brand are you using here. I always seem to struggle with stringing and I've tried giving the plastic some extra breathing room but then I struggle with adhesion of my initial layer, can't seem to find that sweet spot. What are your main slicer settings looking like for temps etc? I enjoyed the content very much My tool drawers are shamefully disorganised by comparison to yours. Might just have to print myself some custom trays for my own tools. Looking forward to seeing some more of your videos. Subbed! :)

[@Beerbatter1962]

Same question for me, l like PETG in general, but I have the same stringing problems. Any advice much appreciated. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.

[@Clough42]

PETG can be a little tricky. I've used both Hatchbox and eSun PETG. This roll is Hatchbox. I'm printing .2mm layers at 255c with a E3Dv6 hot end and .4mm nozzle. I print on glass with Garnier Fructis Extreme Hold #5 hair spray (amzn.to/2FtNQu1). I start with the bed at 90C and drop to 80C after the first layer. I also set the first layer height to 120% to avoid balling up and making a mess and I run it slower (3000mm/min). A cooling fan is important if you're printing any bridges or small features in the upper layers to make sure the print solidifies and you don't get the melty-sand-castle look.

[@underourrock]

In addition to what Clough42 expertly posted, I'd like to empahsize that PETG likes to be printed slower (yeah he said that but a lot of people ignore that about PETG) BUT you should use decently quick travel speeds. Printing speeds can be 30 to 50 mm per second, but travel speeds should be 70 to 100 mm/s. (It varies because if there is a lot of wobble in your 3d printer, you want to slow down the travels so they aren't so rough... my 3d printer is very rigid so I don't worry about it too much.) Also use retraction. 1 or 2mm of retraction at 10mm/s (I've read some people use even slower speed) can help a lot too. So the pressure is taken off of the filament before it rapids away from the part... the two effects combine and you get a lot less strings. PETG can be printed at a VERY wide range of temperatures. On my printer I can print from 230 to 250 degrees. I get more stringing at some temperatures than others...and on my printer, there is a range in the middle I need to avoid where it strings worse than cooler or hotter. Test a range of temperatures with a lot of movement between pieces...in fact there are 3d objects you can get that are designed to showoff stringiness and you can vary the model by printing it at different temperatures at different layers.

[@darranedmundson1505]

@@Clough42 Was that solid infill? If not, I'm curious about pattern and density.

[@jtrobison]

What kind of keyboard are you using on your Fusion machine? sorry I know this is an old video

[@Clough42]

Logitech G610 Orion Brown

[@h.cavidarabac3852]

Your typing speed distracted me from the video. Is it realtime?

[@Clough42]

I think I sped some of it up. I generally type around 120wpm.

[@bpark10001]

Where did you get the purple boxes from? I have Lista drawer system, and some Lista boxes. But the boxes are expensive, and are offered in few sizes..I discovered Schaller boxes (www.schallercorporation.com/), which are offered in more variety of sizes, and do not have all the label holder slots which snag parts. They can also be cut and bonded with ethyl acetate to get even more variety of sizes. How long does it take to print one typical holder?

[@shon9kemp]

Just watched your video. It was the first one i watched. Been thinking about getting a printer just for myself for some tools orginizer and a couple third generation Camaro parts. Thanks for all that useful information. Have a good day

[@corbandallas8644]

This is insane man, like I mean INSANE amount of information you have just shared with us. For free. Never mind those idiots who actually hit the thumbs-down. Incredible how you explained exactly how to use each tool in Fusion. Wish I could buy ya a beer! Huge thanks for the tutorial! Stay up!

[@helmut666kohl]

Thought about doing this. Decided it was a waste of time (mostly), energy and plastic. Instead I got cheap ass 4mm poplar plywood (they sell it here at €2,20 for 5 sheets of 21x30cm) and some express glue. You can even cut that stuff with a sharp cutter, though a power saw is recommended.

[@design8studio]

Great. Thank you.

[@altanberk5701]

Great video, genetically you have a good teaching skill I would say. It is the first time I am happy with the quality of 3D print. Will watch your other videos.

[@mrrrrr1rob590]

Perfect application.

[@dustinmeier9753]

Oh wow, I just subscribed from the monitor mount and didn’t even realize you did this video, too. This was already in my saved videos list 😂

[@CL-yp1bs]

Great work, I very much enjoyed watching this. What model 3d printer and brand of PETG are you using?

[@kevlar_87]

@Clough42 thanks so much for this excellent video, and for sharing the stl files on thingiverse. This will be super handy for our shop.👍🏻

[@karlfimm]

Interesting to see you using the cylinder primitives. I'd probably have sketched some rectangles and rotated them. I'm sure your way is faster. Thanks.

[@RenegadeADV]

First one of your videos I have seen, really enjoyed it, had not even thought about using 3D printing to organize tools, I don't know why I used to to Aviation Maintenance Tool control in the Navy. Been considering buying a 3D printer, now I think it is a must have!

[@ronwilken5219]

Thanks James, very informative. I'm currently awaiting delivery of some custom tool holders for my lathe tools that a gentleman in New Jersey has printed up for me. He didn't have a pattern for the particular holders I use (they're an off shore variety) so I ordered one sent to him and from that he has generated the tool holders. He has also designed and printed a couple of holders for a standard 2" round indicator that will fit onto the OXO sized tool post I use. He's made them in a left (side) hand version and a right (face) version. I intend to equip both with indicators so they'll be ready for use at any time. I'm looking forward to being able to generate a better storage facility than I currently have once they arrive.

[@denzillong9878]

Thanks for sharing! Your video inspired me to design / create bins for my Arko-Mils parts cabinet.

[@3amcookcom]

cool organizers. Stumbled across this video while looking to buy a 3D printer for tooling organizers. here's an idea for how to keep the single tool organizers locked into the larger trays (and maybe you won't mess with building larger trays anymore) - use your cnc mill to drill small holes on the side of each and then join them together using pins. If you drill the hole sizes just undersized, your pins will more or less fuse the holders together. Just a thought. :)

[@71Giggles]

This is a very silly question I’m sure, but could the same cad be used to cut it from solid? Could this be used for subtractive as well as additive machining? Or is the cad process very different?

[@chuysaucedo7119]

Wow! I came to see how you made the organizers, but learned about joint/combine/cut in the process! Last couple of days I was trying to figure it out in Fusion. Ended up doing a work around in another software. Thanks!!

[@ptrotter5223]

Hi James. I printed a couple of your organizers off of Thingiverse. Very nice. You used a different method to create the models in this video than you did on your earlier models. Your use of parameters on those models was very interesting but this method seems much simpler. I'm thinking of building the tool using parameters so I can create a different tool holder simply by modifying the parameters of the tool. Love your videos. Very informative and great presentation.

[@razvanmatt]

I really like the fact that you show the Fusion 360 parts in your videos. There's not a great deal of good tutorials on youtube and seeing how you approach modeling some of these parts is very informative. Thanks for sharing that.

[@profcor1820]

thanks for the idea

[@maikeydii]

I haven't used Fusion for years but I would imagine that you could do something similar to Solidworks Configurations for the toolholder model? Then if you need a holder for different size tool holder, you just adjust the tool model dimensions for a new configuration and rebuild the holder model with new geometry.

[@robertfenney]

Great video and a very good idea!

[@Clough42]

Thanks!

[@sethchambers3238]

What computer desk are you using? All this great info and organization and my immediate thought was how great the computer workstation was!

[@Game-Over-U-Tube]

Just bought an Ender 3 Pro V2 and was looking for some useful prints and your video made me excited to make all the desperately needed tool organizers for my shop. Much appreciated idea, and walk through from concept to product!

[@robdonaldson4837]

Great job mate. Thanks for taking the time to show how you created the tool holders in CAD.

[@pdj26]

What a great video, thank you very much for sharing💪💪💪👍👍👍

[@ycy-technologies]

you can just tack the "single printed" ones together with 2 drops of silicone adhesive to stop their movement. should work fine with PETG.

[@apostoloskoritas9149]

Nice video. Thank you. Do you think is a good idea if you also write the name of tool or the diameter of the tool on the 3D printed model so you don’t have to put the blue tape?

[@williamdavis9650]

Also whats the approx filament cost for the ER20 holders?

[@fsecofficial]

You could have just made a construction offset plane and then made the outer dia tangent to the plane. I've never used joints like that.

[@wtxrcdog]

Thanks for all of your hard work with designs and sharing the files. Great videos too!

[@WreckDiver99]

So, something of note, it appears it matters on your orientation. Since I use F360 for 3D Printing, 99% of what I do is based in the XY Plane. I created BOTH models in the XY Plane and when I bring them together, it rotates the tool by 90 Degrees when I attempt to use the Joint Command. I manually rotate the object being put into the "blank", but then it seems that I can't center the thing into blank without manually doing everything. F360 can be so bloody frustrating sometimes...OK A LOT of the time.

[@Clough42]

That's going to be driven by the orientation of the joint origin you select. Make sure you're selecting both origins on the bottom, or both on the side. If you have one on the bottom and one on the side, it'll do exactly what you're seeing, because it thinks that's what you're asking it to do.

[@WreckDiver99]

@@Clough42 So, I finally got it to work, but I had to use the "Origins". No matter what, even what you stated above, it rotated the part. Bottom to bottom, top to top, side to side...rotated the part 90 degrees. Finally got it to work by using the origins. That drove me nuts. Thanks though!

[@pravado81]

Great video! Which printer do you have?

[@Clough42]

Both of my printers began life as MakerFarm i3v kits. One is 8" and the other 12". I have reengineered a lot of the parts on them, though. Both are running my own extruder designs.

[@nickvanbaelen]

@@Clough42 Could you maybe do a dedicated video on running us through your 3D printer and the mods you did to it? Love your channel mate, keep it up 😉🔥

[@StevenCookFX]

I just wish I could afford all that kind of stuff for myself. :P

[@Clough42]

Yeah, machines and tooling can be expensive. I started small and accumulated over a long period of time.

[@kylehuber3323]

Like he said man. I thought the same shit 5 years ago... I never thought id have all the tools i have today. Just build little by little and be greatful for what you do have. 👍

[@glennlawrie-smith8570]

Didn't Walt Kowalski (Clint Eastwood) share this theory in the movie "Gran Torino?"

[@terpants]

Always great content your channel is great to watch! Keep it up.

[@GaryWilsonDigital]

I just ran on to your channel. Very refreshing to see a clean shop. Nice job!

[@mrskwrl]

Really cool. Nice of you to show the design/modeling process too.

[@juanchirino7135]

extent idea to keep things organized, every thing ready to use and have a place to go back, I'm one of those people which spend time trying to figure out where lived the tool that i need rigth now haha. You really give an elegant a convenient solution to that problem, Tanks for the inspiration man! Reward form Argentina

[@mrcpu9999]

leave some inserts in the bottom or sides and little neodymium magnets. Or on the front and lock them to the drawer face.

[@jimmckinnon6046]

Thank you for explaining the process very well. As a new cad user I struggle with what approach to use to make parts like you just demonstrated. Now I actually think I can tackle a bit on my own.

[@raymoran5422]

Why didn't print both parts at the same time?

[@Clough42]

Depending on the part geometry, a smaller/shorter print reduces opportunities for warping, and allows you to keep the part on the most even part of the heated bed. With materials like PETG, you can often avoid excessive stringing by printing parts one at a time. Whether this is necessary and/or helpful depends a lot on the printer.

[@christophersmith108]

This is only the second video I have seen of yours, but I would say that my understanding of Fusion 360 has improved by a couple of hundred percent. Thanks for your work!