How To Make a Baby Wall-E Robot

[@ronsone8373]

This seems like a cool channel love building stuff that moves ❤

[@dimf5kbb977]

to all makers you have to get the PCB in fact without it's not possible to put all inclusive :) I had to sacrafice the open door drawer to put all the connections !

[@alynaanderson]

@professorboots I’m in the process of building this. Any chance I can get a PCB board? None of your links to purchase one works.

[@kallejonasson874]

Really nice, Wall-e was always my favorite

[@professorboots]

Same here I love the movie!

[@ximeamarilla6928]

Hi! Love your project! Want to do it for school, but I would like to know if wall-e can pick up the trash and put it on his lil box

[@VickyAndhika]

Nice work. Any plan to use esp8266 or esp32 or espcam? And put some sensors

[@TinyHardware]

Absolutely amazing build, I'm printing mine right now. However can I recommend changes moving forward on your videos.. "now just go ahead" you say it so much I was thinking about making it a drinking game. I mean no ill will on this just not sure if you know it's almost your catch phrase now :).

[@professorboots]

Haha, you are so correct in saying this! It’s definitely a crutch, I promise to try and say it less in my next couple videos. Also hope your wall-e turns out good!

[@charlesrainesmusic4783]

This is awesome! Is there a way I could scale up the 3D design to support a larger compartment? I really wouldn’t mind having a little more space for my pico, motor driver, etc… I am brand new to 3D printing, so any advice is good advice..

[@professorboots]

Thank you! And yes definitely, any CAD program you’re able to get your hands on should have the ability to scale the parts. A really easy to use one that’s great for somebody just getting into it would be TinkerCad or if you’re looking for something with a little bit more use and ability to grow with you id check out fusion360

[@Mrhufnagl]

the red LED... it's one with a built-in resistor, right? bc otherwise the LED will be dead soon, right?

[@professorboots]

Great question! Originally I had a 150OHM resistor hooked up to prevent possible burn outs. Though room got pretty tight pretty quick so I ditched it. but after having run wall-e for literal dozens of hours haha without the resistor on the led I haven’t had issues. I credit this mainly to the fact that it’s not constantly turned on, but rather in short bursts.

[@alcetus3]

love this, buying parts now but the speaker amp link aren't working.

[@professorboots]

Hmmmm, thats no good I’ll hop on and fix that ASAP. Sorry about that! Here’s a separate link to that speaker. www.amazon.com/Adafruit-3885-Stemma-Speaker-Amplifier/dp/B082MNXJG5/ref=asc_df_B082MNXJG5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=632190051523&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12499456612517210709&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021400&hvtargid=pla-1016476041278&psc=1

[@alcetus3]

@@professorboots thanks for the fast reply..

[@StevenWilliams-lb9tf]

I know you haven't asked on here, but I thought it would be better as it's not construction machinery.. have you thought of creating johnny 5 from short circuit.. I'm in the process of printing the skidi, and hoping I can learn to build a hk tank from terminator..

[@1kokkerrot]

Hi,i absolutely love this project,what rpm n20 motors did you use? Ive found loads of different RPM,thanks

[@professorboots]

I used 30rpm motors, there should be a link to the exact ones I used in the description. And thank you I had a blast with the project! Definitely worth a build if you have the time!

[@1kokkerrot]

@@professorboots aah cheers,only problem is those are from USA and I'm in the UK,the lowest RPM I can find here cheap are the 50 RPM at £6 where the 30 RPM are £31,I can't find anything cheaper, hopefully will start the print soon

[@professorboots]

Ohhhhh gotcha, the 50rpm ones might be worth a shot. You’ll just have a speedy baby wall-e haha. Definitely keep me updated on how your build comes along. If you have any questions feel free to DM me on Instagram.

[@1kokkerrot]

Hey man sorry to pester you,I've searched for you on Instagram but can't find you at all.i stated printing but unfortunately my beds rough texture has worn away so print is on hold till I get a new one

[@professorboots]

@@1kokkerrot hey no worries you’re not pestering me! Hmmm try searching proffboots. Or if that doesn’t work there should be a link in the video description. I’ll keep my fingers crossed your new print bed comes in quick!

[@garygirard1133]

would you ever consider selling a plug and play version of this?

[@professorboots]

I would love to but I’d hate to get in trouble for merchandising a Disney character since I don’t own the rights. I will be designing my own little deskbot, that’ll you be able to get in a plug and play kit. It’ll be a lot easier to assemble but still cool!

[@elonmoishkrl8981]

@@professorboots smart, amazing job designing all this, its super impressive!

[@professorboots]

@@elonmoishkrl8981 thank you! It definitely involved a couple late nights haha but I love how it turned out.

[@jneo_misc7378]

Hi, thats amazing. Could i use a hc-05 bluetooth module instead of hm-10?

[@professorboots]

I believe so though you would have to swap to a different app as I don’t think dabble supports the 05

[@FassieToonz]

Hi, I was wondering about the project's runtime before the battery gives out. Any insights on that?

[@professorboots]

If you’re driving it around you can expect about 15 minutes

[@FassieToonz]

Thank you!! :)

[@PhilipZollweg]

I'm printing this and I noticed that the left leg is a different version? the slots to attach to the cross bar are too close together, and the posts are too short for the wheels to fit on. Also, what size bolt or screw did you use for the undercarriage assembly?

[@professorboots]

Hey sorry I saw your comment on thingiverse where I responded. I’ll make sure to update the file and get you a screw length measurement tonight. They are m2’s

[@ryanruditz]

This is great! what make his arms wiggle in the code? is that just part of that servo?

[@professorboots]

Haha this is a great question and something I spent so long trying to fix, it’s mainly the servos. After trying massive capacitors to maybe smooth out the voltage it mainly just came down to the potentiometer inside the servo not being super reliable. Even with the disconnection of the output signal from the arduino nano they still shake for a second after they are told to move. I finally chalked it up as a personality trait for wall-e. He’s just had one to many Twinkie’s haha.

[@ryanruditz]

@professorboots Lmao.. I I really thought it was a feature, not a bug. The shaking creates a cute, excited robot feel. I'm using different servos, and it they don't shake. I kept looking through the code, looking for something. Now I need to find a way to code it in lol

[@professorboots]

@@ryanruditz haha yeah the goal was to always have a waving motion but it kind of took care of that for me. So you’ve fully assembled it then? I’d love to see it!

[@victr127]

Would shipping to canada be possible for the custom PCB?

[@professorboots]

It will be soon I’m working on getting everything set up so I have the capability to ship out of the states!

[@victr127]

@@professorboots great!

[@victr127]

@@professorboots update on shipping? 👀

[@colinjervis4661]

Just a couple of questions....do you have a link for the JST connectors that you used? and the second is, I have had the PCB made from the gerber files on your github page, but the pcb's dont have the switch connector holes (the ones near the bluetooth holes) where do I connect the switch to? Apart from the this is a great little project, I have printed all the parts got most of the electronics ready (apart from the switch, and trying to find a battery for it (the ones in the link aren't available atm)) and cant wait to put him together

[@professorboots]

Hello! I do have the link I can fetch it for you this evening once I’m back home. Also I’ll have to double check but those gerber files must have the original PCB files which didn’t have those holes. I spliced directly into the battery wire. It’s actually saves quite a bit of room doing it that way but adds the splicing step. still I’m so sorry for the confusion I’ll update those tonight.

[@professorboots]

I’ll also look into the battery situation. Thank you for bringing these to my attention!

[@professorboots]

Alright first things first here's the link to the JST connectors www.ebay.com/itm/363529978152?var=632753499838. I fixed the GitHub Gerber file for the PCB's though it sounds like its already to late as you've ordered them. As long as you're comfortable splicing the battery wire into a switch you will be good as thats the only change. Though if not let me know and we can figure something out. Finally I checked the links for the batteries, I'm in the US which says they're available I cant speak for area's outside the US though. I hope this helps, also I just set up a discord server about 2 minutes ago haha where people can ask questions and share progress. Here's the link discord.gg/eDNTa6qF

[@hemanthraja171]

Yep , facing the same issue. But adding the switch to battery wires seems to be the way to go.

[@rickc7151]

Hey I emailed you in regards on how to connect the button and switch. Do you have close up pics for that?

[@professorboots]

Hey! I’m so sorry your email somehow slipped past me. I just replied to it though with photos

[@rickc7151]

Ok so I got everything together but having issues uploading the code. I added the zip file from the library manager for flagpcm but receive an error that dabble.h no dir exists? Unable to even verify as well

[@rickc7151]

Disregard. Got it figured out

[@birdyguzman2310]

I have everything roughly the same but the switch I have only has two terminals and not four like the one you have would it still work?

[@professorboots]

Yep it should still work!

[@dimf5kbb977]

which application we must install on the phone to control the bluetooth module HM10 in my case on IOS : look for dabble

[@marianamachado7729]

hi, I saw the files and I am not understanding where are the files with the inside part of the wheels to print

[@patwaripavankumar8527]

In which app are u controlling the wall-e in bluetooth mode

[@LeonIt-t7d]

Hi! This is a really nice project! I build some one later too. But how do you charge Baby Wall e?

[@professorboots]

Thank you and that’s great to hear! I charge wall-e using a 2s balance plug USB charger

[@LeonIt-t7d]

@@professorboots Ahh! Okay thank you. :)

[@LeonIt-t7d]

@@professorboots I`ve seen that the HM-10 app is too old for my Android Smartphone. Do you know an other Bluetooth module?

[@professorboots]

Just to verify the app you tried was called dabble correct?

[@professorboots]

You might be able to use the arduino Bluetooth controller app instead. You will have to construct your own buttons and what not but it looks fairly user friendly.

[@zoeyzhang9866]

Hello Baby Wall-E!😍

[@professorboots]

Baby wall-e waves hello👋

[@dimf5kbb977]

Tattu 4PCS 7.4V 300mAh 2S 45C LiPo are unavailable have you got an other model to replace it ? please :)

[@professorboots]

Oh no! I will do some research asap and see if I can find something that would work.

[@professorboots]

Alright I sourced another battery model that I linked to in the description that should work!

[@dimf5kbb977]

the project is on the way, one question in bluetooth mode I can't go ahead and backward ? I can go right and left I checked the motors and the connections all seem to be ok ? any idea many thanks in advance for your reply ! is the eep on the DRV8833 is to be connected to something ?

[@dimf5kbb977]

I found my error of linking 2 two motors between us lol

[@professorboots]

Oh perfect good to hear, everything is still going smoothly than. You should send some pictures of the progress! I’d love to see it!

[@dimf5kbb977]

@@professorboots yes where can I send some photos ?

[@professorboots]

Currently the best place would be on Instagram @proffboots. I’m working on setting up a professor boots discord channel so people can ask questions and send pictures

[@sarahmiller9188]

Excellent thanks!

[@dimf5kbb977]

On HT JST 3 P : there are VCC GND and D10 but I can't find what is going on D10 what is D10 signal ?

[@professorboots]

I’m afraid I don’t understand what you’re asking. The white wire off of the linear servo is what connects to D10.

[@dimf5kbb977]

ok on the schematic where is the linear servo sir ?

[@professorboots]

Ohhhh i see, HT JST 3 P is connected to the linear servo that controls wall-e’s head tilting up and down. On the schematic it would be on the bottom left.

[@dimf5kbb977]

@@professorboots ok thanks without the control board it was so not evident lol

[@professorboots]

@@dimf5kbb977 haha fair I’ll try and make that more evident. And no problem, best of luck with the project. I’d love to see the finished result!

[@sreechandanapratap4024]

how can i upload all the codes , Autonomous mode and bluetooth mode . they are two different codes

[@Ryan_Tidwell]

Lol @ 10:30 its really gonna get kind of cramped here in a second...dude it was cramped like 3 servos ago!!!

[@professorboots]

😂 you’re telling me

[@dimf5kbb977]

it costs EUR €6.94 for 5 cards PCB to France ;)

[@professorboots]

Heck yeah! That’s for production and shipping?

[@dimf5kbb977]

@@professorboots yes I did it at JLCPCB about 2 weeks of delay to get it at home

[@professorboots]

Perfect! So I’m guessing the gerber file on GitHub worked out Okay then?

[@k.s.viswanadh475]

I've tried this one with the help of my friend who is a mechanical engineer we completed the project but The Robot worked for about 5 minutes and Suddenly the Circuit Board get shot and got fire and also I've wasted my 9097 INR for doing this Project 😂