How to make Big Monsters Easy - HC 309

In this Hobby Cheating tutorial, I help you lose the fear around painting big monsters. These beig center pieces can often be intimidating, but they really aren't that challenging, they are just bigger. We can use simple techniques to get these monsters looking good and on the table fast.
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[@danhowarth8784]

Just wanted to say that I followed this tutorial pretty much step by step and it resulted in the miniature I am probably proud of the most, and it was a really good day’s painting! So thank you :)

[@VinceVenturella]

Great to hear!

[@BrickInTheHead]

Vince, for goodness sake, get a dang Amazon affiliate link!! I've been buying supplies to start doing oils over the past few weeks (streaking grime, white spirits, makeup sponges, mask ventilator) and I really would like you to get a kickback for all that! I'm buying this stuff specifically because of your tutorials, so you deserve some compensation for the great videos you put out! (also you are critically undersubbed and I don't know why. you put out some of the best hobby materials on KZbin)

[@seanocd]

This comment made me realise that I wasn't subbed despite watching for ages. You're absolutely right, Vince is criminally undersubbed.

[@SeerIbarelyknowher]

It's true. These are among the best and most thorough mini painting tutorials on KZbin. The in-depth exploring color videos are particularly helpful imo. This dude needs MOAR SUBZ!!

[@clawhammr666]

Wow, I always thought he had like 150-200k subs, definitely undersubbed, especially considering all the painting tips/hobby cheating

[@Winterydee]

While I could be wrong, but I think that Vince doesn't do this for the subs or the money. I think that he does it for the love of the hobby and the games. Note it doesn't mean that he should make nothing. I would love to see him get paid for all of the help and information that he shares with all of us. But I don't believe that is his personal goal with his channel. Just helping all of us to be able to improve ourselves and our skills.

[@brkfstfd]

I just came to say something along these lines after buying 3 more tones of the AK streaking grime (fuel stain, light slime and dark slime - didn't realize he used the spaceship one here, doh!). I know very well that he wants 0 compensation from the channel because he has little need for the $ and enjoys his well compensated career outside the hobby and because compensation can change the nature of a thing whether you like it or not and his mission has always been to send all this knowledge filtering out to all of us. I was going to ask him if he ever thinks about how much dollar value inventory he moves for all of these entities though, just for fun lol. It's definitely a big number. I'm still behind on my list of Vince-Stuff to buy as I have held off on the AbM Oilbrushers thus far.

[@atelier_AG]

This video comes at the best possible time! I have just finished sculpting a big dragon, and I recently bought an airbrush, so all these tips are amazingly helpful. Thank you so much!

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help. :)

[@NateArnoldVideos]

Painting large monsters has easily become my favorite stuff to paint over the past two years.

[@VinceVenturella]

100%

[@kevinhayes517]

Vince, great video, as always! It was good to see the “usual” techniques put to use on bigger models and see firsthand how easy as well as quick it can be. Thanks for the expert guidance!

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help. :)

[@rottenseed02]

As some one who is fairly new to painting I've been intimidated by my vampire lord on zombiedragon. My biggest hurdle is air brushing the bone and getting the wings right. It's always a pleasure to watch your videos and work up the courage to just get after it!

[@VinceVenturella]

Get amongst it, you can do it. :)

[@matteosmith8647]

Always amazing to watch you work and pick up pointers to bring back to my own projects. You're the master! Thank you for doing and sharing and teaching and just being an awesome creative force.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help.

[@Blackchance]

Thanks for this video, Vince! I love your "old school" videos with neat projects and tutorials like this. I have a shame pile of huge cosmic horror monsters that I've been thinking about, and this video is fantastic inspiration to get all of the claws, tentacles, eyeballs and horns painted. Keep up the amazing work!

[@VinceVenturella]

Fantastic! Always happy to help.

[@milamilla1977]

@@VinceVenturella I need to learn how to paint large flat surface without airbrush. So far, no matter what, still have that brush strokes visible! Funny, I can paint windows with gloss paint neatly, but cannot do it on miniatures! Should I use oil paint?

[@iskiebae]

Phalanges are the fingers. Carpals and metacarpals are wrists and hands, tarsals and metatarsals are ankles and feet.

[@VinceVenturella]

There we go.

[@thelonelybolter8245]

this looks so good!!! What an amazing, efficient process. Fabulous as always :)

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks! :)

[@custodesdan1089]

You make everything look so easy! Thanks for another wonderful video

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks so much 😊

[@SvenEnterlein]

Your airbrush control is amazing! This video definitely helps conquering the fear of larger models. Thank you so much.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@chrissteadman4614]

Thank you Vince, this certainly has helped me a great deal. It has reiterated, yet again, that for me that a PLAN real helps improve my end results. For decades I've just sat down and painted - it's the way I've always done it. Now, when I remember to plan I get a way better finished model. I'm slowly breaking the habits picked up when I started back in the 80s! BTW, I've found that the spoon on the end of those metal paint stirrers by Tamiya, is a perfect size for adding pigment to your metal recipes. I mention it as I figure it a tool that lots of people are likely to have.

[@VinceVenturella]

Good call!

[@bodotrenaud7441]

Definitely the best named series about mini painting. Seing you going so quick on such huge monster and having such beautiful result feels like cheating. Amazing video as always

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help, :)

[@closer2theheart684]

Stunning work, masterful.

[@ThaBenMan]

Fantastic work! Thanks for sharing. I learned some things that will be handy when I tackle my Great Unclean One and Stonehorn

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@13Robzilla]

Thank you Vince. This one really resonated with me. Please stay safe.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

[@kizza9297]

That looks absolutely amazing! Great job👍

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@BlackOfTheNight]

Gave me the confidence to start my Zombie Dragon. Couldn’t do him as well or as quick as you but I’m very happy with the results for the time I put in. Thank you for the video :)

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad I could help! :)

[@FB-rf5ry]

The true technomancy here is not just churning out a great looking army in a week, but also putting out two quality videos about the process in a week. I love how the shadows from the red primer and streaking grime really tie everything together while the green, yellow, and metals still pop out! Also props for stressing safety when spraying enamel washes. No need to be breathing that stuff.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, you have to be safe with that stuff, it's toxic as.

[@bezzy8257]

Vince, thank you so much for this. I'm just about to start my ironjawz army and was definitely concerned about painting one of these guys

[@calum1234100]

Love this scheme!! And thanks for giving me a load of inspiration to finally paint up my glotkin I've been putting off 🤣

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad to hear it! Always happy to help

[@Strkr3]

Amazing work as always Vince! You are like the Godfather of miniature painting that should get way more recognition than you seemingly do! I always see others referencing you in their vids. Perhaps you give the subtle nod, tip of the hat from the darkened corner booth whenever an up and comer makes the scene. ;)

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, I enjoy my spot in the darkened corner. :)

[@crazyhorse-us3ng]

This is the video I was hoping to see when you did your Seraphon army. With dragons on the way, this was what I needed.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help brother. :)

[@kendo5862]

All round fantastic ... and great advice!

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help. :)

[@Thinkworldwild]

Amazing tutorial. I will use your technics when I get the stormcast big dragons

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@n1vagn180]

Another great paint job, made to look so easy

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks 👍

[@seanglynn9587]

I’ve been sitting on the Emperor Dragon from Creature Caster for a while because I didn’t know how to tackle him. This video has lit my fire Vince, thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

That's what I love to hear. :)

[@MyOddEdits]

Its always great to wake up to a steaming fresh Vince V video!

[@VinceVenturella]

I do love Satruday mornings as well. :)

[@docremington1589]

Thank you for this video! Seriously first time I thought I can actually tackle a monster.

[@VinceVenturella]

Fantastic!

[@Maxmillion77]

Looks great Vince and with relatively fast and simple techniques. Great explanations as always a real motivator. I'm definiely guilty of the "oh, I'm saving this cool big model until I can do it justice" and then it's still sitting there unpainted. Nice to see you can just get stuck in and with a few basic techniques get such a good outcome.

[@VinceVenturella]

That's exactly right, there will always be improvement, but that's no reason to wait. :)

[@MaskedRiderChris]

Frankly, one of the reasons I finally got an airbrush in the first place was to paint models this size! I just so happen to be getting into oil paints as well, of late, so this is all kinda coming together, for me. I'd forgotten about removing the airbrush cap for more precise lines, too. Good work, sir!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

[@Paddzr]

The grime step was very helpful! I have a thunderhawk I want to grime up but I'm bit afraid to do it because of the amount of money and time that thing took... This gives me more confidence.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, nothing to fear, you can always remove it easily.

[@D2017_]

Looks amazing!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you! :)

[@ant9850]

Thank you for giving me the confidence to tackle this model. I also have the Krondys dragon which I have been putting off because it is too big. I will use your techniques and hopefully get some good results. Removing the airbrush needle guard for better accuracy is an excellent tip, thank you and I will be careful.

[@VinceVenturella]

Wonderful, always happy to help!

[@craneduelista]

Another amazing video! Thank you

[@VinceVenturella]

My pleasure! :)

[@Fallen_BDPS]

So talented man, great work!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you think so! Always happy to help. :)

Since getting into AoS and choosing Seraphon as a first army, I've always loved this model so much. Sadly I won't be able to use it any time soon without additional Ironjaws. I'd love a similar bulky dino guy inside my Seraphon line! Stellar job on the paintjob Vince

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

[@Appolyon]

Just take this guy and replace the rider with a Saurus. Than play it as count-as Carnosaur.

[@powerfrompaint782]

Thank you for All your work, yourself, tyler ,Tom and meph are the reason for so much of the fun I have in the hobby. Please do your merch in a non-white colour so I can buy it! Best wishes from germany

[@VinceVenturella]

I will do what I can, I am going to update the merch store before the end of the year. :)

[@crcinga]

Nice work. Haven't ventured into enamel washes myself but after seeing the effect they produced on your model, I may take the plunge. Good tip on being careful not to bend tip of needle. That'll ruin your day quick. I have one of the sharpenair tools to repair needles and they work great. If you haven't tried the tool yet, I highly recommend. Saves $$$ and, I don't know about you , but when I have bent needles in the past it was usually at really inconvenient times (like when there weren't any art/hobby shops open).

[@VinceVenturella]

Interesting, I will have to check that out!

[@senegalus]

really awesome and detailed information, could learn a lot from it :) thanks

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help !

[@emilymegan40]

Rawr monster! Looks fab as always, I’m sure he loves it!

[@VinceVenturella]

He does, been using it to great effect. :)

[@penslasleikir]

Love how you made it almost easy to paint bigger monsters

[@VinceVenturella]

That was certainly the goal. :)

[@alexandregillemadstudio1765]

It's been a while since I whach your videos, still great. Thank you!!!

[@VinceVenturella]

Welcome back! Always happy to help.

[@tokoloshgolem]

This is fantastic, thank you

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help. :)

[@wakephillips]

Starting to paint my Maw Krusha tonight Vince and I'm going to be using your techniques here with my own scheme. The tip about "hot spot" highlights with the airbrush in particular I didn't think of but will be definitely using too. My Ironjawz sport a bright yellow and blue scheme with subdued green skin. I'm thinking I'll do the Krusha in high contrasting blues with pale biege-yellows for the claws and underbelly. The Megaboss rider will have bright yellow armor. Thanks for this video!

[@VinceVenturella]

Happy to help!

[@thomastaylor1254]

Great video thanks vince

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you, always happy to help. :)

[@SparkSovereign]

Staring down trying to paint Archaon and Belakor this week, this is most timely!

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome!

[@alexandremendes5763]

Amazing Vince. 🤘🤘🇧🇷

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you!

[@ThePingouin2ter]

I just got a cabbage for Christmas! Thank you so much for the tutorial !

[@VinceVenturella]

Wonderful!

[@aaronmartin7858]

Awesome video! Now I just have to figure out how best apply this to my Durthus.

[@VinceVenturella]

Oh, very much the same with some browns and stuff, thebig tree lords have wonderful textures. :)

[@markgnepper5636]

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you! :)

[@adamtomlinson918]

I've got an arachnorak spider up and coming so this was great!

[@VinceVenturella]

Fantastic!

[@hobbithubby5076]

One of your best (if not your best) tutorial to date, Vince. I’m gonna perfect this by it stealing for my Mangler Squigs…. Everything is better with squigs ;)

[@VinceVenturella]

I couldn't agree more, everything is better with squigs. :)

[@lassedybmark7398]

2-2,5 hours for this?? Jesus man. This would take most people 2-2,5 days of painting. Impressive as always, Vince!

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, it's all here. :)

[@theeliteeaglegamer5893]

Just wow! I love how the many individual simple techniques you use and show all come together for an amazing finish! I've had an airbrush for a while now but never really added any variation, these last two videos have really helped me level up my skills and motivated me to be more daring with my own armies. (and maybe made me order a few ironjaws) I've been scared of using enamels for a while but this is really making me want to give them a go. If you leave the streaking grime too long or work too slowly, or even want to take more of a few days later is it still possible to fully re-activate it? In my experience with oils if you wait too long it becomes almost impossible to remove, is it the same with enamels? Criminally underrated channel right here. Quality production, soothing narration and amazing tips, how are you not more well know?!

[@theeliteeaglegamer5893]

Oh yeah one more question. With the pigments on the bases, do you seal them with anything? Whenever i seal them i always lose the dusty look, and for my game pieces i do want something that doesnt rub off over time. Do i just have to accept that or is there a work around.

[@VinceVenturella]

Well thank you, always happy to help. As to the pigment, nope, don't seal it, when you work them in like that, they aren't going anywhere.

[@TheRealProfwalrus]

If I could paint anything in even 50% of this quality in 2 hours I've considered myself a hobby winner. Imagine getting rid of half your backlog in a weekend :O

[@peterolah9159]

I've learnt so much from you, this is also another awsome video. Is there any chance to create a speed painting tutorial for chaos space marines including streaking grime in the near future?

[@VinceVenturella]

I'll see what I can do. :)

[@peterolah9159]

@@VinceVenturella Looking forward to it :)

[@jakessofa8187]

Spectacular as always! Behold the power of the book of Vincent! Did you paint the metal after as the grime didn't look good over copper?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, in general, I don't want anything that I am not controlling over the metals as it interferes with the shine.

[@yagsipcc287]

Great video bud :-) I also enjoy painting bigger minis be it a bust or even a larger scare normal figure. They are easier to paint in many ways especially when trying to do things link blending and detail work :-) Sure they take longer becuase of sclae but still I think it helps alot and I have gotten better myself by doing larger stuff makes it easier to work on things.

[@VinceVenturella]

100% agreed.

[@smithfamilygaming9700]

Thank you! That was very helpful, I can’t wait to try this out on a model. Off topic question do you own a cordless sawsall (reciprocating saw)?

[@VinceVenturella]

I do not, it would be useful to have.

[@BjornKuma]

Just an FYI, Vince. Dinging your AB needle (if you're removing the tip for needle cleaning while spraying), isn't always the end of the needle. You can usually save them by carefully rolling the tip across a harder surface, to refit the tip to mostly straight. It's also pretty easy to account for a slight change in trajectory if it doesn't go all the way straight. I've only ever bought 1 new needle in the last 20 years as an illustrator and kustom auto painter. Tho, if you mushroom the tip end, you're gonna want a new one, but they usually bend first. There are plenty of vids here on YT for proper technique if one is worried about making it worse.

[@VinceVenturella]

Good call, I've rolled it flat with a glass before, but it's always quite a challenge.

[@harrymanback3475]

I would never believe this was painted in such a short time it looks amazing! 😊👍

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you so much 😀

[@aaronnewton9398]

I think if I ever took the plunge on airbrushing on streaking grime, I'd feel compelled to move the compressor and air brush outside for the session. But I'm too lazy so I'll probably stick to just brush-washing enamels and oils heh.

[@VinceVenturella]

That's fine, same effect, it's just time. :)

[@mikeg9493]

I have been hesitant to paint my Maw Krusha and Ironjawz because I was worried that I couldn’t do them justice. Now after these latest videos I’m excited to finally paint them.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, always happy to help. :)

[@Temporal_Assassin]

I prefer large models, but I am old. I just got into figures, from 1/35 tanks into Verlinden's 120mm line, so I am happy with large models. Though I have a smaller metal dragon I did in Red oil paints. Cheers!

[@VinceVenturella]

Right on

[@liuyi5527]

fantastic as always. what psi setting are u using for those ink at close range sprays? last time i was trying to do something similar i felt i had to turn it all the way down to 5 or so, not sure if i was doing it wrong lol.

[@VinceVenturella]

18PSI, but it's about trigger control, you just have to barely push down and rock the trigger.

[@paradox1995]

Amazing video. Thank you! I've never used oils or enamels through my airbrush. How do you clean them out? Just repeatedly spray white spirits through it? Getting ready to paint an Flesh Eater Courts army an plan to use your streaking grime technique! 👍🏻👍🏻

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, just white spirits to clean

[@dennisfoulds3941]

Your an excellent teacher.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you as always. :)

[@marceld3086]

Is there any particular reason you use the grime instead of an oil wash exept that it has already the right consistency, or would an oil wash work just as well?

[@imyourhuckleberry5133]

came to ask the same question...hope we get an answer if not from Vince, then from a fellow viewer

[@ColinPaints]

I think oil washes would look great but would definitely take a bit more time, mostly because the airbrush isn't great for application and the cleanup is a bit more arduous. I do really like the graininess of it compared to enamels so I think it's a legitimate choice between the two based on what you prefer.

[@VinceVenturella]

It has a slightly grittier finish and is easier to fuzz out is my honest answer, though you could achieve the same effect with both or at least something close. But the real answer is also that it dries much quicker, easier to clean up and easier to paint over.

[@cfeduke]

The Streaking enamels always have a matte finish when they dry, while some oil paint may dry glossy. (Gamblin 1980 Van Dyke Brown in seems to go glossy on me with Gamsol.)

[@RedHandedDaniel]

Fantastic!

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you. :)

[@samuelkushmerick2028]

awesome video thank you.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thanks! :)

[@LojZza007]

I wish i'd see this before I did the big models in my Seraphon army. Another great and inspiring video. Do you have any tips for the paint consistency in an airbrush? Im struggling to get a smooth finish quote often (i.e its hard to get a zenithal without white dots all over). Only way how i managed so far is to thin the paints down, which gets rid of the splattering but turns them much less opaque where i have to do multiple passes to get the coverage. Do you use any additives besides thinner and flow improver?

[@VinceVenturella]

You should always be working thin like you see here, very thin. You want to do multiple passes. A pass with the airbrush is like 5 seconds, and that lets you create natural smooth gradients and build colors. Nope, 80/20 Thinner/Flow improver.

[@jrennodell]

This is very helpful thank you very much. I have been thinking about painting another dreadlord on black dragon how would you incorporate this style to that? Would an enamel wash work with that as well?

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely, that kind of dragon with scales and folds can really work great with this.

[@gabeamodeo8590]

Great video as always! How long do you let the enamel wash dry before removing with the makeup sponges?

[@VinceVenturella]

Just until it doesn't look wet (i.e. it's not glossy)

[@outofthisworldmodelsandmin898]

I honestly love painting monsters! Thank you for addressing this topic! Where can I find the Starship Grime? Is it in a set? I did a search and couldn't find it at all. Thanks for so much great content! -John

[@VinceVenturella]

I got mine from Michigan Toy Soldier.

[@Maggers42]

Great video, any advice on how to work a similar effect on the skin but achieving a lighter blueish/purple skin? I thought using the contrast of orange as a base may work before the highlighting but was a bit apprehensive to try!

[@VinceVenturella]

My honest answer is I like the same red for Blue to purple. You need to build up the blue a little, but the blue over the red will give you a nice purple naturally.

[@ronweiser1527]

Your work is always so beautiful. I like trying new techniques but I really struggle with how to take the picture in my head and assemble the right colors to use or how to make the model match the picture in my head.

[@VinceVenturella]

You can do it! I hope stuff like this helps. :)

[@ronweiser1527]

@@VinceVenturella I have no idea how to start...... Like I have reference images of what effect I want and in my head the model looks cool, but I literally dont know how to select the right paints, what techniques to use etc. I paint good table quality mini's but I struggle to plan correctly to take it up a level (and I'm aware theres a time investment required). so instead i just watch how easily you make it look and hope one day I can get remotely close!!!

[@chucklamb3496]

Thanks Vince

[@VinceVenturella]

np. :)

[@Sean-ch4vn]

Vince, once again a great tutorial, many thanks! Do to medical issues, the use of enamels, lacquers, oil paints and white spirits (even ordeless) are verboten in my paint arsenal, with the exception of acrylic paints. With that being said, what are some acrylic paint methods I can use to replicate the method you used with the streaking grime?

[@Blackchance]

I'm not Vince but I've been experimenting in using other effects to imitate oil/enamel washes and wash removal. I've been utilizing Citadel washes, putting on a bit thicker and wetter wash, let sit for about 5-8 seconds, then use a damp brush to aggressively wick away the wet wash from the high points, to the point of being almost completely gone except for light staining. Rinse brush, wipe down to damp, repeat. The natural capillary action will make it naturally draw into the recesses, but it also wants to pull off the mini into your damp brush. It feels very much like drybrushing in reverse, wicking away the still-wet wash from the bright areas, and letting it sit in the dark areas. The colors I like for these effects are Typhus Corrosion, Agrax Earthshade, Skeleton Horde, and Nuln Oil, and occasionally mixing in Athonian Camoshade for a more brown/green tone to the aforementioned lineup. Hope that helps!

[@VinceVenturella]

It's tough, acrylic paints dry really fast. I am not sure there is a perfect comparison, but you can try mixing with heavy amounts of drying retarder and then wiping with water, though I have never tried it.

[@Sean-ch4vn]

@@VinceVenturella Vince, thank you for getting back to me. I think I will take both yours and Anthony's ideas and have some fun experimenting with these techniques.

[@Sean-ch4vn]

@@Blackchance Anthony thanks for your reply! I will definitely try this out!

[@mjdonns]

Amazing video. I've been afraid to paint my maw krusha for a long time, but this makes it look a lot less scary! I'm curious how you would approach one with dark/black scales and maybe a light/whitish belly? Would you start with black/white primer, or use more of a 'real' color and then try to darken/lighten from there?

[@VinceVenturella]

I would overhighlight like you see here and bring it back down with some black blue ink glazes.

[@ShockTacticsAO]

This looks amazing. Question, I’ve got an air brush but never used streaking grime at all, nevermind through the air brush. Do I need to treat it the same as paint and use thinner etc? Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

No, it's an enamel product, not acryllic, so you have to use white spirits like you would for oil paints or similar.

[@ShockTacticsAO]

@@VinceVenturellathank you for the reply! So white spirits to thin it down enough so that it goes through the brush, got it! Thanks! Also, how long did you let the grime dry for before starting to work with it? Thanks again for the reply, really appreciated!

[@Lupercal84]

Hey Vince, so I’ve been working my way through my Ironjaws following your previous video and i first want to say thank you so much for the inspiration and motivation to break out my airbrush and get going. I have one question though, please could you confirm the initial mix for the green skin? Is it the same as the Orruk skin in the last video or a different mix? You did do a few other mixes in the video without saying but I don’t mind eyeballing those, just the green being the one I don’t want to mess up! Thanks in advance!

[@VinceVenturella]

This is a different mix, it's basically any mid-tone green, and then adding in yellow and then a little ivory. Any paints/brands will work, but that first green should be a solid mid-green (50/50 yellow and blue), think like a grass or warm forest green.

[@gameguy1337]

That looks awesome. I've been interested in trying to paint a large model after I finish up with my Tzeentch army (I'm new to the hobby so it's more practice than anything). I've seen lots of people use airbrushes on youtube but tbh they look intimidating for me right now though. It always looks like it would be too easy to make a mess.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's something I reccomend at the 6 month mark, it's a great tool and though there is a learning curve, it's so worth it.

[@phillipchronister7035]

Man that looks great and has encouraged me to pull that large monster from my pile of shame! Quick question...did you use the same technique with the grime when painting the rider? Thank you for another great video!

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes I did, ame technique, if you watch the video previous to this, you can see how I paint the orcs. :)

[@phillipchronister7035]

@@VinceVenturella Thank you!

[@njabruzzo]

This is great - thanks Vince! If you could include the paints used in the video, that would be helpful. ( I love the streak stuff you used, etc.)

[@VinceVenturella]

The full paint list is at the front of the video. :) - Glad it was helpful.

[@Matthew_Dubroq]

Another banger Vince. Question in the streak and grime. Was there a reason behind using that over oils? Was it dry time to get the project done?

[@VinceVenturella]

Dry time and it leaves a nice patina a little easier.

[@kjiggy059]

Great video! Is the streaking grime method essentially the same as using an oil wash and wiping off the excess? What is the difference between the two? Thanks

[@VinceVenturella]

THey are very similar, the streaking grime dries a lot faster. It's a little easier to clean up, it can also produce a nice gradient quite easily working dry. It's also easier to paint over the top with acrylics. That being said, it can certainly be duplicated with oils.

[@wardoge]

I really hated how it looked at the beginning but by the end it was amazing… it seems hard to get comfortable to the times where the model looks terrible. Great monster 👹

[@anthonylaselva4727]

Thank you s much, Vince! What kind of airbrush set (pistol+compressor) do you advise for beginners? For me is useless spend 300/400 euros for a pro set, like Olympos or Iwata ones.

[@VinceVenturella]

Just a simple master airbrush G22 starter kit, it's $100 and easy for basic tasks.

[@jordigbayo]

Thank you very much for your videos! You have changed how I approach painting and I am trying new techniques thanks to your videos. I have watched this one in particular many times, and I have started painting my cabbage following your steps. I have some questions if I can take some of your time: Do you thin the Ork flesh/yellow ink mix at the start with your thinner + flow improver 80/20 mix ? What is the ratio of paint/thinner you use for glazing with the airbrush in this case? Same question with the red/flesh you use later on the flesh, and the yellow ink mix for the wings.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, same thinner mix for everything, always at least 2:1 thinner to paint. sometimes more, the key is just always work thinner and you can build it up. Some of them were down to something like 6:1.

[@jordigbayo]

Understood, thank you!

[@xenotrauma]

Thanks for the vid! Quick question: since you're already busting out the airbrush, what's the advantage of overbrushing/drybrushing the value sketch instead of setting it with the airbrush?

[@VinceVenturella]

The texture and what it covers. The airbrush is going to be smooth and cover into the crevasses, I wanted just the higher areas and the texture is rough like scales.

[@donttellhimpike2043]

Amazing work Vince. For airbrushing lacquers, do you recommend the full face mask, covering mouth, nose and eyes? Or lower half face only? Thanks again for such inspiring videos!

[@VinceVenturella]

Lower half is fine.

[@diehexenmaus185]

when i first started painting, i found large monster so very intimidating but they honestly are more forgiving a canvas than, say, a 28mm infantry model.

[@VinceVenturella]

100% agreed.

[@kgarten1]

vince first of all again great video..i have a question about airbrushing streaking grime. before i had a seperate room now im airbrushing in my living room..im a bit concerened about the smell..i have a regular airbrush spray booth from amazon the cheap ones...does it help or should i go and brush the stuff on if that even works the same.

[@VinceVenturella]

You could just brush it on, no real difference, but if your in a shared space, it has to be VERY well venthilated and you don't want to be in there for a while afterward.

[@nuriochi]

I’m planning out my own Mawcrusha and focusing on deep rusty-orange/red with a paler warm yellow-orange underside. Would you recommend priming/base coating with in the green-blue-purple before the dry brush stage to capture that complimentary color in the recesses?

[@VinceVenturella]

Sounds right to me.

[@joaofilhobarbosa6891]

Boa tarde, Vince. Seu trabalho é magnífico!! Parabéns!! Queria ter a oportunidade de ser seu aluno. Sou do Brasil. Sempre estou acompanhando seu trabalho.

[@FranacondaAHH]

Great video, much appreciated. If we wanted the end result to be red instead of green, would we start with purple or blue base coat, and then dry brush flesh colour over it before airbrushing something like FW red ink?

[@VinceVenturella]

Just switch the red base to a dark green and you're all set with the same steps from there (switching the green color to red).

[@FranacondaAHH]

@@VinceVenturella Thanks I shall give it a try!

[@GoldenAgeFalseEcho]

Vince, if you HAD to varnish something like this for tabletop durability, would you use the same mix of 3:1 UMatte to Satin?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes i would. :)

[@stephenwood6665]

Do you have trouble with dry tip more without the nozzle on the dry brush? Also I have been trying to workout how to replicate your formulas to fill an empty Vallejo metals bottle so the paint is ready to go but I have not had much success. Have tried this with your copper and gold recipes at all?

[@VinceVenturella]

Nope, no real additional dry tip. I haven't made a big bottle, but you should just be able to multiply out the recipe.