How to make Faux/fake "tiger stripe" Wood Grain | Investarms Gemmer Hawken How to Build Part 22

[@jaxn13]

I know from using black ink like that on guitar fretboards in the past, that they’re pretty durable. Looks really nice. I might take the time to do this. Cheers.

[@briantuma1502]

Man, i am so happy i ran across your video. I’m restoring a bassoon and wanted to apply tiger stripes like those found on high end instruments. I think it’s cool that muzzleloaders and bassoons both use this technique. So different yet so alike. Thanks!

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Wow! That's so cool!! Historically, we see many of the same tools being used on muzzleloaders and instruments. I love hearing this, thank you for sharing.

[@briantuma1502]

@@ILoveMuzzleloading They keep things vague enough as to not give out formulas, colors and type of oils. I reckon it’s a quality oil varnish. I’ll probably start with ferrous nitrate as my base. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJO3pHyPZdh8h5I

[@robertfriedel924]

Your video came at the right time for me , I am building a Ieman full stock rifle and looking for the best way to stripe it . I also seen a technique in which you can wrap the stock with wire and use a flame and lightly scorch the wood . This also gives nice results . Keep up the good work . It's great to see a young guy like you get this interested in muzzleloading . Thanks!

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thanks Robert! I've not seen an original that used the wire/flame technique but I bet it will work out okay for you. All the best, Ethan

[@Bayan1905]

I found when I did refinishing or finishing on a gun stock I always preferred just using oil as stain in one form or another versus trying to stain something to make it darker. One way that you can mark darker stripes on is a trick guitar guys do where they wrap metal wire around the guitar neck and body when the wood is bare before any stain is added and then they lightly go over it with a propane torch and that makes some uneven stripes and then the whole thing stained and it looks natural like striped maple.

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

I've heard about the torch and wire method but haven't tried it, maybe on another build!

[@jackblackpowderprepper4940]

It looks excellent Ethan, nice job. Can't wait to see the end product.

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thanks Jack! Should be pretty soon

[@mistermatt9056]

Great job Ethan, it looks great.

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thanks Mister Matt! It was a neat process.

[@Blackpowderdad]

Wow that looks amazing!! Can’t wait to see the finished rifle!

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thank you! Should have it wrapped up here soon I reckon!

[@musketman54]

Very good job! It turned out very well!

[@todhurley3756]

Looks good to me. You did a great job on it.

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thanks so much Tod! It was a lot of fun.

[@Everythingblackpowder]

That looks great!

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thanks Jake!

[@troyspooner5742]

Wondering if you could get the same effect actually “in the grain” with a micro torch by burning tiny lines in, then fine sanding them slightly before applying the oil? Thoughts?

[@davidcampbell2661]

Wow, looks just like someone painted some stripes on some wood.

[@Rustygulley-r3r]

Another great video, Ethan. Thank you so much. Would it matter if you applied the ink before the oil? An iron-gall ink, like Platinum black sepia, might give better results and dry faster. Noodler's inks are notorious for long drying times (among other things).

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Hey John, thanks for watching! I think the order of the application would matter depending on your wood and it's grain structure. I applied oil first following Mitch Yate's tutorial. He said the ink bled more, and ran into the grain when he applied the ink first. BUT he was using a softer wood than I believe this european walnut is. Great tip on the kind of ink, the noodler's did take a day or so to fully cure, even when I set it in the sun! I'll keep that in mind.

[@robertrandin9568]

What kind of ink are you using and the brush I want to do that to mine it looks great great job I love your videos

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

I mention the ink at 1:59 and the brush choice at 6:16

[@homeboyteddyisaliar]

@@ILoveMuzzleloading what’s the oil you used with the ink?

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

@@homeboyteddyisaliar I used danish oil on this build

[@robertrandin9568]

Where is the rest of the video I love the lines but I want to see the finished product

[@TheEmpire85]

If the lines did bleed with water that might look even better. More natural

[@krockpotbroccoli65]

That looks far better than I thought it would. Kinda makes me regret not doing an aquafortis stain and faux striping on the beech stock that came with my Bridger kit. Oh well. The stock is already completely finished. Onto the metal. This is only really meant to be a utility hunting rifle. It should get field aged, as it were, after a few seasons in the woods. I don't think I'll ever build another Hawken, but if I do, I'm going to use a blank of figured maple or walnut and use quality parts from TOTW or one of the other suppliers. Ive already got a longrifle build waiting for me to complete this thing anyway.

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

I don't blame you, in the end these are usually tools and work just fine without the fancy additions. I hope you enjoy the longrifle build!

[@brianweaver8024]

Cool idea, but it strikes me that the lines seem too regular?

[@kareno5770]

I was thinking the striping was going to be done with a wood burner, shading the wood through heat.

[@joemummerth8340]

ink first , then any stain you may use , then oil ! you want to vary the width of the lines , and the spacing , it varies quite a bit on real maple ! and try to not make them straight ! and no oil on the stock before doing the striping !

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thanks Joe

[@Bob-bb3ur]

When I do this, I don't use a brush. I use a feather.

[@larryperkins8462]

nice

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thanks Larry!

[@NorrisdaBahia]

Hi

[@GeorgeTaylor-hb9jp]

If you want the stripes, just get a curly maple stock, use the aqua fortis, and you'll get it just fine. Faking just doesn't cut it. Never, never use the aqua firtis after any oil. It just won't work.

[@charlescox6608]

Just put more coats on it !!!!

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Thanks

[@normanbraslow7902]

Don't fake it get a decent stock. No faking!!!!!

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

Totally respect your opinion Norman!

[@Rustygulley-r3r]

'Faking' figures in wood is a tradition that goes back centuries in furniture and instrument making. As long as the tradition the piece belongs to is honored, then I can appreciate it. Still, nothing beats highly figured maple or walnut.

[@stevealler8040]

Better to spend a bit more money and get the real deal.

[@ILoveMuzzleloading]

True, but many can't afford it right out the gate. Thanks for watching!

[@joemummerth8340]

do your ink and lightly work back with 0000 steel wool after it`s dried , then apply oil ! you`ll be surprised by the results ! I`ve been working with curly maple , and doing faux striping on other woods for the last forty years ! do the ink first !