I truly feel sorry for you that you are forced to remaster your classic videos. I followed you from the beginning and like to thank you for teaching me and others how to work with fiberglass. it was a joy to learn and is a very fun and useful set of skills. best wishes from berlin city
@autowingsthingsmike89543 жыл бұрын
Amazing work as usual !! Learning allot from you , I'm in the middle of creating my plug ( dye). My question is; I am priming my plug with primer 2k, now can I seal it with automotive clear coat ? Insted of Famowood Glaze or still use the glaze also ? Thank you as always , You always answer my questions and I truly appreciate it !!!👍
@madmen25053 жыл бұрын
@@autowingsthingsmike8954 normally when using a 2k primer you have to use a 1k color/paint layer which you afterward seal with a 2k clearcoat. I would not use the 2k floor coat after a 2k automotive clear coat. But I will recommend that you use PVA and mold release wax. Good luck with your project. Greetings from berlin
@autowingsthingsmike89543 жыл бұрын
@@madmen2505 Thank You ! from USA
@madmen25053 жыл бұрын
@@autowingsthingsmike8954 good luck fallow builder. Keep me posted if everything went well. All the best 👍
@autowingsthingsmike89543 жыл бұрын
I will keep u posted !! Thank you !!👍
@michaelrudisill8974 жыл бұрын
You're living in the year 2090 man, great video and thanks for the cheaper alternatives. Made my job way easier and cheaper.
@20jpb6 жыл бұрын
Great video. I love your straightforward, no nonsense approach, especially the cost saving alternatives, de-mystifying a lot of the expensive alternatives. Well done!
@matthewchubb16 жыл бұрын
Thanks again Bill, followed your steps here and got a perfect reproduction of my steel bonnet in weight saving fibreglass ! Many KZbinrs thank you
@xnadave5 жыл бұрын
This is the clearest, most useful explanation of this process that I've found. I've had issues with dragging the cloth with the brush (put resin on the cloth instead of cloth on the resin), had no idea what gelcoat was for, etc. Thanks for posting this.
@SirGuidemere913 жыл бұрын
Having no experience in this, I can say that I’ll be making my own cowl hood instead of spending 500 on one. Lol. Thank you for the video!
@JohnFekoloid3 жыл бұрын
Wear a very good nose mask. I heard that fibreglass is quite dangerous, as you can breath in the dust and it get stuck to your lungs.
@IMGROWN32324 жыл бұрын
Absolutely fantastic video. I’m currently doing a custom grill on my car and this video has tremendously helped me. Thank you greatly!
@Nino130845 жыл бұрын
I've learned more about fiberglassing from you than my own brother who died it professionally at one of our local body shops. I appreciate all your tutorials and look forward to more in the future. Thank you from the States.
@eastcoastrifraf9101 Жыл бұрын
Wish all KZbin channels were like this
@365hillclimb6 жыл бұрын
I love that you only focus on 'necessary' work and materials, without getting too hung up on whether or not you can get a few grams lighter or stiffer. Efficiency is key, especially when you're fielding a team by yourself.
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
I crack up at the attitudes & antics of the resin infusion & vacuum bagging fanatics who think weight levels in basic club cars are as critical as in the aerospace or F1 industries. I can honestly say I've never sat in the pits thinking "Oh shit if only I'd minimized resin in those panels of mine I woulda beat that guy."
@365hillclimb6 жыл бұрын
I'm as bad as anyone else about getting as light as possible, but I've definitely picked up an overflowing handful of time-saving tricks from you that have kept my projects from getting stuck. I still groan whenever you glitter up your epoxy or when you make cheesy jokes, but I absolutely love every video you've put out. Even on the other side of this rock we all live on, you're an inspiration. Keep up the great work, mate!
@RezyNWorX4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for all your videos! Your videos have guided me through my whole widebody kit process.
@pkf41244 жыл бұрын
Best guide to doing this I have seen so far. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@josepablofernandez50687 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot mate! Your videos inspired me to do my own project ( I mean Why not?) and now my Chevrolet Corsa has a really cool racing dashboard made of fiberglass, this information is really helpful and you share it without any interest, the world needs more cool people like you, cheers from Chile!
@herokampong92952 жыл бұрын
Oldman with full of skills..thanks for sharing.good to know it
@tiredhero5 жыл бұрын
Just want to say thank you, i have made a bonnet a front lip and sideskirts so far.. i messed up a couple times but im still doing it :)
@jorgearturo66263 жыл бұрын
How you did the mold for the front lip?
@ameenghuloom13467 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. You are a professional
@tonyrichmond94287 жыл бұрын
One of the best videos on youtube. NO BS, love it.
@lucaspadilla29494 жыл бұрын
Finally someone who actually isn’t 20 and looks like they have some years of experience under their belt.
@psyolent.6 жыл бұрын
thats some good old aussie inginuity right there. love your work mate, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
@ACplanet5 жыл бұрын
i will be doing a few panels on my car, thanks to your videos!
@Reaper43675 жыл бұрын
Great advice and tutorial mate. I am going to attempt to do this , except the complete sides of a Land Rover Discovery1 .That way i can make a fiberglass body shell for a camper. .Its a landy thing. lol. Cheers mate, i'll let you know how it goes.. or doesnt lol.
@GCCRacing4 жыл бұрын
Very helpful and informative vid. Thanks. Much appreciated.
@super_cyb0rg2265 жыл бұрын
Following because I make costume armor pieces that I want to have a smooth auto-body like finish. I will definitely be using this video as a guide.
@jayhorsley804 жыл бұрын
Thanks a bunch! Ordered the book off amazon.
@Airspaceuser3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for making these videos! very helpful
@graveyfpv80894 жыл бұрын
You are a LEGEND for this, thank you good Sir...
@acr25054 жыл бұрын
Thank you Bill! i will definately gonna try this tutorial! thanks again from Spain!
@pepenacho177 жыл бұрын
Hello Bill congratulations for your videos , I think they are very informative, by the way I have seen a lot of them including your home´s construction videos .It is very inspiring to see what a person can do if is motivated.
@SabzGarage3 жыл бұрын
Unreal mate, inspired me to make some moulds!
@KarKraftsman5 жыл бұрын
I love this guys videos! I, being nieve and think everything has to be perfect, cringe at his mold prep and handling lol
@swingking084 жыл бұрын
Thats the old, she'll be rite approach hahaha
@synon9m5 жыл бұрын
I want to strip down a Corvette to its chassis and keep the interior and rebuild a 70s futuristic body around it. Could I use this method for the body panels. Still need to figure out glass, lights trim and details
@BillsBuildandRace5 жыл бұрын
Yes this method it the best way to go. Your biggest task will be sculpting the bodywork you want to copy, and part of that will be then figuring out where you need to divide it into molds. I have found chicken mesh or similar over a very minimal frame then covered with foam rubber which is then fiberglassed lighlty and used as a basis for final sculpture is a quicker method. But using stock panels a a sculpture base and modifying or building onto them also works. Either way - a full body sculpt & mold (then copy) is a BIG job! Here is my foam rubber method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZWmZayjj5iZkKs and my current build series from part 6 shows me sculpting my own bodywork for a Civic by heavily modifying factory panels, and ending up with a one piece flip up front for the car. You should watch all of this build from part 6 forward: kzbin.info/aero/PLh5B6MCXRHiFalCU0qKyDltcBxNVZCLS1
@synon9m5 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace wow cool ok thanks
@juliocolman90295 жыл бұрын
Hey brother I have sort of the same idea to replicate a vintage roadster on a modern car base like a Miata. Perhaps depending on where you’re located I can help you and learn in the process. I’m definitely going to try to contact WJP004 whenever I can start my project. His videos are full of lessons and got me motivated to achieve my dream of owning a vintage roadster looking ride. Good luck 👍🏼
@monstersquashracing4 жыл бұрын
Love this channel man. Keep up the great work.
@kent8474 жыл бұрын
This is is awesome and now it's time to go and make race car parts.
@lorcanmaher35316 жыл бұрын
Lovely job. going to watch all this mans videos
@Raptorlifts4 жыл бұрын
What a great video, exactly what I needed. Quick question for you - when you repair a mold with body filler I assume, do you need to seal the mold with the epoxy?
@BillsBuildandRace4 жыл бұрын
Yes.
@tyrannosaurusmex50334 жыл бұрын
Great video very informative
@Tookoff Жыл бұрын
Awesome stuff
@ericmccolough24822 жыл бұрын
Thanks, your videos are very informative. I want to cast my headlight surrounds in fibreglass and have seen molds made of silicon and soapy water or cornflower. But I'm concerned the silicon would stick to the paint. What do you think would be the best material for a mold that won't trash my paint? Thanks again!
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
The best material is Alginate used by dentists. It will not stick to anything, but put a plaster mold over the top of it to add strength.
@AndaLuke4 жыл бұрын
Great video - do you think this technique would be suitable to rebuild car interior headliner backing board (slightly rotten carboard style board)? Was thinking I could wax spray one side then fibreglass it just like you did to create a solid mold. Just worrying it might be too rigid, although the car is a Volvo estate so have quite a lot of room to slide in and out. Thanks.
@bendubu5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for such a great video ✌🏼
@josh23237 жыл бұрын
Very nice tutorial thank you for uploading
@dannymooney89717 жыл бұрын
Can you fiberglass a car panel without taking it off and not hurting the paint? Pls post a video on that im dying to learn it
@BillsBuildandRace7 жыл бұрын
It can be done using the methods I demonstrate but you need to polish wax on wax off about six coats of wax before the PVA release is applied. However I never guarantee an OME part will be perfect as a little damage is always possible. Instead I advise guys to get that panel from a wrecking yard & copy that instead. That's t he only 100% risk free way.
@dannymooney89717 жыл бұрын
Thanks
@VasilyBuilds5 жыл бұрын
Danny Mooney aluminum tape on top
@joepaullawncare72225 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace wait you're saying i dont have to drive around without my truck hood for 3 weeks,,, thats great then resell the used part for a little money back
@rogerlabbee66252 жыл бұрын
Bill all my fiberglass attempts have been failures. Is there a way of sending you a photo of the materials I am using? Thanks Roger
@aussiejas65994 жыл бұрын
Great video. Thanks
@iniigmobil Жыл бұрын
Hii Bill, i have watch almost all of your carbon/fiber tutorial videos its very informative and easy to understand. but I'm still confused on how to make the hood hook at the front of the fiber hood? you have explained on how to make the hinges at the back of the hood, but I still don't get it on how to make the hood hook thoo, hope you can guide me, and God Bless You!
@BillsBuildandRace Жыл бұрын
By the "hood hook" do you mean the mounting point for what we call the factory "bonnet latch"?
@iniigmobil Жыл бұрын
ahhh yess i mean bonnet latch, sorry for the bad English Bill@@BillsBuildandRace its the things that just look like a "U" shape steel where u cant remove it from the factory bonnet, the only way to remove it by cutting the legs
@BillsBuildandRace Жыл бұрын
Make a tine template of the position of the factory catch relative to the edge of the bonnet. Then cut the factory u bracket off and weld it to some 25mm flat steel. When you lay up your bonnet use your tin template to position your u bolt in the right place & at the right angle, then put two layers of cloth over it while the main bonnet is still unset to lock it in place as part of the bonnet. Don't do this as a second process AFTER the bonnet has hardened. You must do it as the final part of the bonnet layup to get the strongest cementing of it into the bonnet. But you need that tin template because you can't re-position it once your fiberglass sets & it's locked in place. If you need adjustment you can usually do that on the catch it goes into on the car.
@ej8_felipe4 жыл бұрын
Wow what a legend. Really good video and cool hat
@NateNastys5 жыл бұрын
Hi there! Great videos. Really enjoying them. What floor wax did you use? Been looking for some cheap floor wax at bunnings and woolies and cannot seem to find any. Thanks!
@xnadave5 жыл бұрын
Question: I'm making a fender for a Pontiac Solstice. I've managed to make what looks like a pretty decent mold. However, there are some ~90° angles along the top and front of the fender. Although those were faithfully duplicated in the mold, I get a lot of air bubbles in the new part. The rest of the part looks fine, but the number of voids that appear on the edges is unacceptable in a finished part. Any suggestions? I've been using glass cloth rather than CSM, mostly because the CSM really wants to drag around when applying resin. :| Thanks for the video series. It's been very helpful so far.
@alexamunoz20648 ай бұрын
Im trying to make one for my Pontiac solstice as well
@TurboV8boi4 жыл бұрын
This is badass. Good stuff.
@fiyatta85164 жыл бұрын
Sorry random question I'm new to this and I'm just curious as to why he did it twice and what the process was for that? I lost track when it jumped from trimming the first piece.
@BillsBuildandRace4 жыл бұрын
I presume the repetition you are referring to is first layup which creates a mold, and the second lay-up of a copy in that mold. If so, the reason you have to do it twice is because the first creation has the smooth, finished surface on the wrong side. It is, if you like, a female copy of a male part. By then copying that you end up with a proper copy of the original which - in the case of car body panels - gives you the smooth, finished side with the Gelcoat on the outside surface which is to be pained.
@joaquinchapo89994 жыл бұрын
Is it a have to use pva ? Or is their a sub for pva?
@jaimegrant7843 жыл бұрын
I'm wondering what resin you use? Are you using polyester or epoxy? And are you using waxed? or un-waxed? Or a combination? I will be making molds and body parts for my 1978 Triumph Spitfire. Your videos are excellent by the way
@BillsBuildandRace3 жыл бұрын
In fiberglassing I always use unwaxed, general purpose polyester resin. I have used Vynylester but found it more expensive and way too fumey, so I prefer Low Styrene Emission), not for environmental reasons - but because it doesn't smell as bad. Glad you find these videos encouraging. An industry myth is that you can ONLY use polyester resin with fiberglass, and ONLY epoxy with Carbon Fiber or Kevlar - but this is rubbish. Yes, that it the way it is most of the time, but you can mix it all up as needs be.
@mitchray5758 Жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace Thanks Bill for that information. I remembered reading that in your comments way back and I am sure you said that in a video once. I am building a body to cover my tube frame buggy with doors and a floor and wanted to know what your thoughts were. I will be using fiberglass on some parts and carbon/ kevlar on others. I have searched your site for several days in my spare time looking for what you had to say on which resin to use. Thanks for all the knowledge you share with so many. Even though they have been around for years, it takes some of us longer to find them than others. And they are still as valuable as they were the day you put them up! Thanks!
@FisherCatProductions6 жыл бұрын
Wow, nice concise video. Thanks! I would love to duplicate my truck bedsides before the dreaded "Tundra wheel-well rust" sets in. My only concern is making a mold that size--around 3' X 7' overall. Any advice? I'm wondering if I should add stiffeners to the mold before I pull it, so it doesn't flex out of shape when I cast the final piece. Perhaps it's not a big deal since the final part would be very flexible, and has numerous attachment points (bed rail, wheel well, front, back) to pull it into shape. Also wondering if an extra layer or two of woven would be necessary for such a long part. Your thoughts, sir?
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
Glad you found the video helpful. If I was to add an extra layer of cloth for stiffness on a large, fairly flat piece I would use 600gm Double Bias fiberglass cloth. It does not take up curves, but it great for quick thickness & strength in a single layer. II would lay in stiffeners on molds the size you're looking at. What I use these days is the rubber tubing used to insulate hot water pipes, available at most hardware shops and in various sizes. I just cut it in half longitudinally to get a half round shape that the cloth covers easily, and being rubber it conforms to any compound curves & shapes. On a flat object I'd put stiffeners around the edges a couple of inches in, and maybe diagonally. Then just covers in two layers of 450gm csm cut into strips.
@FisherCatProductions5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your reply, especially the advice on using pipe insulation stiffeners! Ingenious. After watching a few more of your videos, I have the confidence to mold a bedside. For a mold of that size, can I use the same amount of layers as for your hood? How many would you advise for the finished panel (how thick would it end up?). Though large, it will be firmly fastened on the top rail, tailgate area, front of the bed, and a rather stout wheel well arch. Again, thanks.
@BillsBuildandRace5 жыл бұрын
PM me pics to Redline Fiberglass facebook
@danssv84 жыл бұрын
Great video mate
@EnJayMelbourne5 жыл бұрын
I know this sounds a bit inventive but I'm thinking of getting hold of an old car & removing the body & building a new car body to put on top of it. I really want a Rolls Royce Dawn but they're close to a million dollars & that's out of the question.... What would be the easiest material to build the car body with & how would I go about getting the shape right. I have a friend who owns one but he's not exactly going to let me pull panels off to duplicate them. Please let me know what you think. Thank-you. ~Nick.
@BillsBuildandRace5 жыл бұрын
What you are talking about is a job demanding the highest levels of fiberglassing skills and experience, and a VERY complicated and expensive, time consuming project.... one even I would be most hesitant to consider taking on. Respectfully... thinking about doing this is punching above your weight. There are far more easier & rewarding car projects to take on than this.
@guitariste476 жыл бұрын
hi, thanks for your videos, very well explained!!i would like some advice; i want to make moulds off my metal car panels (wings, bonnet etc....), but i don't want to damage them: if i apply wax the proper way,, is there a risk of melting the panels clear coat while the epoxy resin is drying ?
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
The mild heat of catalized fiberglass resin is incapable of melting dried & hardened clear automotive paint. In a case like this I would apply FIVE coats of release wax, polishing each coat. This will build up a good protective layer, and leave your car with a fantastic shine after the fiberglassing process. Then apply PVA release. The more important issue is to make your fiberglass molds so that their shape will not cause them to be difficult to release off your car due to under locking edges.
@guitariste476 жыл бұрын
thank you; now is the time to make my moulds !!!
@guitariste476 жыл бұрын
Now it is starting to be sunny in france, can you tell me which product i need to get rid of the wax applied on my original metal car panel, once i have taken the moulds off ? thanks
@samjaggard51396 жыл бұрын
What do you suggest I first practice remaking in fiberglass
@daninwy26814 жыл бұрын
Are you sure you're using MEK and not MEKP? MEK is something different. I tried it as a hardner and it doesn't work. (MEK is the same as MEKP but the P stands for Peroxide).
@haydenallen8883 жыл бұрын
Hope you are doing well! Did you sculpt the Evo 8 vent or did you purchase this somewhere?
@BillsBuildandRace3 жыл бұрын
Bought it off the shelf and incorporated it into many bonnets since.
@paulpaul88616 жыл бұрын
I have an old MIni and some of the panels haven been eaten away by rust, but I'd like to keep the good parts of the panels, so it it possible to replace all the missing parts with fibreglass?
@BillsBuildandRace5 жыл бұрын
I'd have to see pics to advise you. PM me via my Redline Fiberglass Facebook page.
@simonevans3697 жыл бұрын
Will the mould part from the job with just wax..forgot release agent
@RUSSIANUK2 жыл бұрын
Bill, I've been wondering something that I haven't seen in your videos, in relation to you sealing plugs. You say you have to seal them to prevent the gelcoat from biting into any filler. Is this just a problem with certain filler types or all? I'm intrigued because surely the point of a wax and pva release is to prevent the gelcoat from biting, afterall, you're not sealing a mould before laying up a new panel? And you don't seal an original panel if taking a copy and it doesn't strip the paint when you pull the mould away. Just random thoughts. I like binging your fibreglassing videos from time to time, your taste may be questionable at times but you're having fun and nobody can criticise you for that.
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
The point of a wax and PVA release is NOT "to prevent gelcoat from biting into any filler". Rather, those products are designed to aid release, not form a barrier to absorbent fillers. You don't "seal an original panel if taking a copy" because there are o fillers in them - just metal & paint. The paint "doesn't strip away when you pull the mould away" because the paint is not absorbent like fresh car body fillers used in shaping dies/plugs to be moulded. My taste is not questionable at times - just different to yours. There is a part of me that likes being outrageous at times & pushes the envelope ... hahahaha!
@RUSSIANUK2 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace you never know what is under a layer of paint unless you put it there. I Googled my question to you while I was waiting (very different timezones) and the alternative answer was, you seal a plug to reduce the pores in the piece. So in theory depending on your timeframe and area of expertise, a decent paint job with a mirror finish is sufficient to prevent the gelcoat from gripping what is beneath using a mechanical lock, there was no mention of a chemical lock. Questionable taste is what separates the unique from the mundane. My dad once wallpapered the outside of his car with a large floral print paper and sealed it with polyurethane varnish. Bizarre but magnificent.
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
@@RUSSIANUK You are talking about two different jobs. The sealing needed for a sculpted die/plug with copious fillers in it to shape it is quite different to what is needed to seal a panel that is just painted. The key issue is the gelcoat locking into the absorbent sculpted fillers - a situation not present in a painted panel.
@RUSSIANUK2 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace Bill, the panel that I'm about to copy was originally the grille and surround, I want a different look. So I filled the grille lattice with polyester filler, sand, fill, sand fill, then a coat of resin and filler (that was tough to sand) then 2k filler primer and sand followed by more 2k filler primer as I wasn't entirely satisfied the first time, then a gloss base coat (cellulose) wet sanded and soon a two pack acrylic clear coat, a final wet flat then a good buff so it's gleaming. My problem was you name a product in Oz and one in the U.S. but I live in Britain and can't find anything cheap, but I do have lots of paint and I think I can get an almost flawless finish with paint. I just wondered if maybe the epoxy varnish works well for you given your necessity to get on and finished and the softness of your fillers, obviously the softer the filler the weaker the bond to the panel. I'm not arguing, my dad was into GRP, unfortunately he's no longer around to ask, but you are, so I'm picking your brain instead. I also found a polyester sealer / filler primer designed for sealing plugs, which can't be much different from any 2 pack filler primer. I just presume most of what you can buy is a con.
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
@@RUSSIANUK With your over attention to detail and (I suspect), being a perfectionist worrier, you have over done things on preparing that plug and made extra work for yourself. I only use two fillers when sculpting dies, automotive body filler, and then Gyprock/drywall joint filler for the final filling. You can't use this more than 4mm thick as it will crack, but you can gently hand sand it super smooth with a handkerchief! The Wattyl 7008 I seal my plug/dies with is just a equal two parts polyurethane clear floor/table gloss. Go to a big hardware or paint store, and look for an equivalent.. a TWO part clear polyurethane. These products are all self levelling, so spraying is unnecessary. Just paint WILL NOT seal your plug, no matter how many coats you give it. Do not over complicate this - just g Get the right product.
@halcontv6 жыл бұрын
Hello, if you make a copy of your bonnet, doesnt that change the size to a bit bigger than the original?
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
It would do if you only did one layup to make a bonnet - but thinking this way you're leaving out a stage in the work. This is a TWO stage not a single stage manufacturing process. First stage is to make a fiberglass mold off the original. Second stage is to make a copy (which goes on the car), WITHIN that mold - guaranteeing the finished part will be EXACTLY the same size as the OME part.
@jacobsvensek3824 жыл бұрын
thanks man
@88kornhead5 жыл бұрын
This video inspires me
@843Keen2 жыл бұрын
How do you make that bonnet
@user-sx6qh3xd9g2 жыл бұрын
I have one question after all , let's say you have a mold, and my question is when do you put gel coat and fiberglass , and when you can skip the gel coat and have fiberglass finish without gel coat over the new part ?
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
Why are you asking this question? Is it because you are thinking this is a way to save money? Tell me what sort of things would you like to make in fiberglass, and that will help me answer your question.
@user-sx6qh3xd9g2 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace I'm asking that question because I want to use fiberglass that have pattern for first layer (that's visible) and second and third I want to use chop strand mat
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
@@user-sx6qh3xd9g But what are you wanting to make?
@user-sx6qh3xd9g2 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace a wing but I want the fibers to be visible like carbon
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
@@user-sx6qh3xd9g This is a clumsy way to communicate about this. If you have Facebook there are links to me on this channel's home page. Are you planning on making the wing by laying up two halves together in a mold, or are you planning on over laying fiberglass onto a wing shape of some kind?
@AlienPizza385 жыл бұрын
This is awesome👍
@holdenfry26166 жыл бұрын
If you don't use body filler on the panel do still need to seal it
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
No. If it's all metal just release wax & PVA release will suffice.
@holdenfry26166 жыл бұрын
Ok thanks
@hugochavez2383 жыл бұрын
Well Done. I think that you should Consider picking up a Second Job as a DJ at a DISCO TECH.! See you next Time...
@dustinalexander1566 жыл бұрын
So, you made a mold of the top and bottom of the hood. Do you use both of those sandwiched togather to make the actual fiberglass hood? Seems like becouse its on the outside, it would be slightly larger than original dimensions
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
You have slightly misunderstood my method here. I didn't make a second mold of the bonnet underside. For a racing car you only need a single skin, so I only made a single piece into which I then laid in re-enforcing tubes. I don't leave steps out of my tutorials. That would be unwise. You didn't see me make an underside mold because I didn't make one. There is a later tutorial of mine on how to make a double layer car panel, and you see me do that there... but not here. Neither is the copy larger than the OME part. The sizing of the MOLD is "slightly larger" - but the copy then made within that mold is EXACTLY the same size as the bonnet the mold was made off, and this SECOND generation lay-up is the panel that goes on the car.
@dustinalexander1566 жыл бұрын
WJP004 i got ya. I appologize, I wasn't trying to point out any wrongs, simply asking for my own knowledge. I think I see what you did here. It just took you explaining it in that way for me to realize. I didnt think you would leave out steps..... but wasn't quite sure what was going on is why I ask. Thanks for your reply
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
No need to apologize. No offense taken at all. You were just asking for clarification. That's how we all learn.
@dustinalexander1566 жыл бұрын
Absolutely agree with you sir... thank you for your vidio
@xmahou6 жыл бұрын
great video thank you
@tiredhero6 жыл бұрын
when you repair any of the damage on the mould should i repair it with car body repair with gel coat?
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
Gelcoat only goes hard & stops being sticky when poly resin is applied over it, so you never use it as a filler. Just use auto body filler, sand it when fully hard, but you then MUST coat your repairs with Wattyl 7008 or a coat of Famowood Glaze coat. If you don't all you filler will come away in the gelcoat of the copy you make in that repaired mold. But either of those 2 clear epoxy two pack clear floor varnishes will prevent that.
@tiredhero6 жыл бұрын
WJP004 thank you so much for the help i did the bonnet of my rx7 fc3s and did the vent seperate.. the vent snapped when taking it out the mould guess because its plastic and 30 years old and english weather... mould was nearly perfect apart from a little part that snapped off.. thank you so much for all your videos and help
@Bigsinglecoils6 жыл бұрын
Great vid, cheers!:)
@georgerivers6077 жыл бұрын
my question is...wouldn't the fiberglass hood be slightly bigger than the original because it was made to fit over it?
@BillsBuildandRace7 жыл бұрын
My answer is... No, because the sizing of the MOLD is what you are describing here - but the copy then made within that mold is EXACTLY the same size as the bonnet the mold was made off, and this SECOND generation lay-up is the panel that goes on the car.
@JuanHernandez-ub3ez7 жыл бұрын
yep
@Manu-br5hr4 жыл бұрын
Because of the background music it's hard to listen....
@jessemartinez67815 жыл бұрын
How can I make a presise copy of a car fender? For a production purpose. I have the funds and determination
@BillsBuildandRace5 жыл бұрын
kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3TKe3l3hNGAjrs
@TheGilbee217 жыл бұрын
Wondering what do you use to colour the gelcoat. Pigment? If so where from and what one cheers
@BillsBuildandRace7 жыл бұрын
Neutral Gelcoat is coloured with paint pigment - the stuff paint shops have in their carousel mixers, but you buy it from fiberglass suppliers, like where I used to work. You can order online or by phone, pay by card & they'll post to you (it looks like you're in Tassy). trojanfibreglass.com.au/product-category/pigments/
@TheGilbee217 жыл бұрын
WJP004 thanks mate I just bought 100g of pigment down in Tassie and it was $17. It's $20 for 1kg at Trojan. Much better price 👌🏻 love your work!
@SpeedingTube6 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Thanks
@rattlecanrx75946 жыл бұрын
Just curious, could plastic wrap be used instead of the wax on flat areas?
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
I have used pallet wrap as a release agent on test pieces, and also on frozen carcasses when making fiberglass molds as a pro taxidermist. But wax & PVA release TOGETHER is always best as you always get wrinkles with plastic film.
@rattlecanrx75946 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@guitariste476 жыл бұрын
i:ve seen a video where a guy used aluminum food wrapping sheets : better than pastic ?
@edwardmurray85075 жыл бұрын
My gel coat seemed extremely thick and hard to paint on WITHOUT brush marks. It also seemed to go off very quickly and it almost turned into one big lump in my paint pot before I could paint it onto the car panel. What did I do wrong? Too much cat? Thanks
@BillsBuildandRace5 жыл бұрын
The brush marks are only visible on the top the surface which gets overlaid with resin & cloth - so they don't matter. However gelcoat will copy the surface of your mold exactly on it's other (bottom) side. What method did you use to proportion the catalyst?
@edwardmurray85075 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace thanks for taking the time to reply. I fear the brush marks are where the gel coat is applied a little too thinly, but it was very hard to cover them once I had applied the gel coat. I followed your video and just did it by weight on the scales, however being a novice I wonder if pouring the catalyst into a separate weighing pot may be an idea first before adding it to the gel?
@BillsBuildandRace5 жыл бұрын
@@edwardmurray8507 Ok - so you mixed your catalyst by weight. Good. What percentage did you use and what were your weather conditions?
@edwardmurray85075 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace I tried to get it as close to 1% as I could. Sadly weather here is cold ish at the moment - about 10c.
@BillsBuildandRace5 жыл бұрын
@@edwardmurray8507 You've done the measuring correctly. The cold should have slowed catalisation right down. How long did you mix the gelcoat, how long between when you mixed it and when you applied it, and how long did you spend applying it?
@SecretVoice97 жыл бұрын
Is the gelcoat really required?
@BillsBuildandRace7 жыл бұрын
YES!!! Stop looking for shortcuts. here aren't any.
@SecretVoice97 жыл бұрын
Okay thanks! Great vid!
@marvg80023 жыл бұрын
Where did you get that evo scoop?
@BillsBuildandRace3 жыл бұрын
I Googled "Car body kits" and found a manufacturer in Sydney who had one in his product listings under "scoops".
@macoting14216 жыл бұрын
i wish i be on a OJT for projects
@carncraftnagpur7 жыл бұрын
Can we produce car bumpers, spoiler fenders in same way?
@BillsBuildandRace7 жыл бұрын
Yes, just go to my library lists here (screen left) where you will find more than twenty fiberglass tutorials showing you how do do those exact jobs step by step.
@carncraftnagpur7 жыл бұрын
Thank you
@LegacyIvyTerascale7 жыл бұрын
can you make the whole body of fiberglass if chassis is separate ?
@BillsBuildandRace7 жыл бұрын
Yes. Funny car drag racers have been doing that for years. But it takes a LOT of skill & experience to make such a die, mold it's pieces, then lay it up.
@LegacyIvyTerascale7 жыл бұрын
i saw on TV and photos but wanted to verify thanks
@JuanHernandez-ub3ez7 жыл бұрын
check koenniserg
@autobarn2346 жыл бұрын
Can you make BMW e30 hoods trunks and fenders for export?
@BillsBuildandRace6 жыл бұрын
Freight from Australia makes that uneconomical, plus you can buy those off the shelf if you hunt around.
@p0intdk7 жыл бұрын
is this just a repost?
@basedpony8667 жыл бұрын
he keeps having to reupload because of music used
@LegacyIvyTerascale7 жыл бұрын
better not use at all few reports of copyright infringement by owner and account is removed by google itself
@marriocharles41684 жыл бұрын
Wonderful video, great cost-cutting endeavour that can be done by most people. The thought of making Fibreglass items always crossed my mind. At long last I got help from your video. Thank you a thousand times.
@ljgarrison69105 жыл бұрын
Subbed.
@carncraftnagpur7 жыл бұрын
What is the thickness of fiberglass??
@BillsBuildandRace7 жыл бұрын
As thick as you make it. My standard layup for car work and making molds is one layer of 225gm cloth then two layers of 450gm cloth. This gives a thickness of around 3mm.
@carncraftnagpur7 жыл бұрын
Thank you
@guitariste476 жыл бұрын
I want to make a complete polyester body for my toyota mrs spyder, the primary reason is loosing weight ( not me, the car...); if I do the above mentioned, will i lose weight compare to the original metal part , or will i have to make 2 layers instead of 3 ? Thanks
@1powelrainbow27 жыл бұрын
What song is playing in the beginning?
@BillsBuildandRace7 жыл бұрын
Hot Heat - You Tube
@mockemperor9533 жыл бұрын
This video to me screams 2000-2009
@fusiondensity32875 жыл бұрын
👍👍
@jaxv946 жыл бұрын
i always see the american eagle in the comments,
@843Keen2 жыл бұрын
How do you make that bonnet
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
I really do not understand why you would ask that question, when this video shows you how yo make this bonnet step by step all the way through.
@843Keen2 жыл бұрын
@@BillsBuildandRace I’m sorry sir..I mean the evo scoop
@BillsBuildandRace2 жыл бұрын
@@843Keen I just made a mold off one, so now I could make copies of it to put on any bonnet I liked. You can just buy them like that to add onto any car, and there are many other manufacturer's scoops available like that from after market Fiberglass custom body panel suppliers. Just look up "fiberglass body kits" in your area.