How to make the CHEAPEST and FASTEST Polyurethane bushings Without a mold! DIY

[@eros20V]

Really enjoy your videos. Good work. Cheers from Greece.

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Thank you!🙏 I love Greece… I came for the Sun, but keep coming back for the food and atmosphere.👍

[@eros20V]

@@DavidRoadworthyish pm me if you come back. Can help with accommodation in Santorini 🙂 plus you can see my project car !

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

@@eros20V MASSIVE high five man!

[@chaseschlafmann1239]

Nice fabwork!

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Cheers man 🙏☺️

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Hi guys. Welcome to this episode…🎉

[@slick1488]

The polyurethane looks great only you forgot to add the steel bushing back inside the center.. That Urethane is not going to hold up under load with just 2 washers I would dig those 2 center bushings out install them before you mess that bushing up...

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Hi. It never had an insert in the first place... I guess there was just thrown in a bushing of sorts that didnt come from that model... I realised the mistake to late, and I "just" put on a bigger washer to "catch" the panhard bar if it were to slip of... so far.. 1 year of pretty much hard driving... nothing wrong with the poly bushing...

[@artimeges6365]

5:00 I highly remommend masking tape

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Duly noted. 🙏🫡 Should have gone done that path… Would have saved me alot of time.

[@projectblack2462]

2 things. I wonder how urethane liquid would interact with grease, maybe you could prelube the part before casting , also, thinking you could rethread the tab dowm a size and use the next smaller bolt with a flange head. That would have been easier and wouldnt hurt the strength of the assembly.

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Cheers. I wanted the bushing to stay in place in the Panhard bar, so no need for grease before casting. Also the safety of a shaved down bolt Wouldn’t be something I’ll bet my car on. Also it was very rusted…

[@projectblack2462]

@@DavidRoadworthyish yeah i see why youd prefer overkill to making something smaller. The reason threading it down wouldnt hurt the assembly is because that nut and washer is primarily there to keep the bar from sliding off of the stud, it wouldnt need to be too significant to work. Now, a rusty stud is another matter altogether. So is personal preference. Your repair looks more than sufficient and ultimately i agree it was a better approach. I was thinking someone might not feel equipped to do all that but might want to get down the road. The lube, i was thinking a person coud do a thin layer on the "mold" surfaces to discourage adhesion as well, but i dont know how that would interact with the resin...

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

I catch your drift@@projectblack2462 The Stud was also way gone, also the bracket that held it.. So had to cut it, to be safe... I could try and do a piece with a lubed up "mold" just to see what it would do.

[@derptastic9147]

lube it up big boi haha. But does some lubrication for bushing movement mean lower wear on the bushing? i geuss @@DavidRoadworthyish

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Lubing is key! ;-) Well the part in the panhard bar dosent move.. but the bolt that goes through is lubed, so it wont tear the poly over time.@@derptastic9147

[@ricardomartin4712]

Where did you purchase your resin?

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

​​⁠ This is the stuff I used... So far holding up fine www.ebay.com/itm/256165921692?hash=item3ba4adc39c:g:odcAAOSw4dRkyW~Y&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0AuNEbhMqsfWV3XU0MaJQ1C30zYiNQDqIdNNgpbrDydXzPQ3qw2KDiTGXcKviOAs%2BiHbiRtWshM3Ad%2F%2FVDp%2BbnBIi1VboiPBvI1ihN62FM14Q5d3oKtZwt9NAnad1lOLDHCBG4nhAFOIniqqOBmbOkBgY2pGg38UlTyrg3ZcOqq86hYarWbl0g6VwSkkSEpbMGIGqRqyrhLG%2B5SC4X2QYnNgzOx3P3H2zOYUh%2BE0QNDCuBHdFE8UbPfnkuD3gDWIwBPT%2FAGSqevyKeiwTDGjykY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5SCvunnYg

[@AshLongie]

Watched it what bottles u use for the tubber mix

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

The rubber is a poly urethane for cast molding.

[@AshLongie]

@@DavidRoadworthyish just trying to find a UK supplier thanks

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

I always buy from mouldcraft. They have diffrent hardness etc. www.ebay.com/itm/266652745648?itmmeta=01HWYQH5HM933M9SZYQPWZZWT5&hash=item3e15bdffb0:g:7-8AAOSwijplvnHU&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HwPGP2BEzBNIWzTr2yu9yuqF8skAM%2BUffRfdxSEg49N33QImlOb7aPXAxnKoDjTsueohc2NMuwqK5LM2zd8%2BhyxAyeTmp%2BMLn3DCeQJptXoN49rRt3HiBHUMbsN7QNoyL10c6eEjkBsg5QtTeYSVE6fxhV%2FvI9tNRIrtbuIgK7MwzGhaq72azea9VsordCwvC8YYzq0HtdWOURj0NdzpTnUaai7IE10gAFJ%2FjMERfUBx38kkUSHVQ%2F1%2FPIgxvSMe6k3TzWFyA%2BGrv53K647Ro4%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_DYxNfnYw

[@dark420passenger]

I heard we should degass the resin after mixed to remove air bubbles. Is it true?? Did you degass it?

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Good point.. I didn’t have any air in. I Think it more meant for mechanical mixing, like with a drill or mixer… When I pour it’s free of bubbles, and I always tap the moulds.. normally basicly no air bubbles comes up.

[@Ehren1337]

is there US version for mouldcraft?

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

I’m Sorry, I wouldn’t know. But in the US there is straight up poly bushing casting kits…

[@andremanhaes9539]

can i get the product link?

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Sure. I used this www.ebay.com/itm/266600444220?itmmeta=01HXKZGC994CJCQXXAP13903YS&hash=item3e129ff13c:g:EW0AAOSwDq1lly4c&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwJeNT8JsPyg6xHU04T2XMZAU4OE49QbSkq8L8RLLVjw8sz%2BEzmT21Y6LyCZNi53E0uhYNNzR0cQfDjZ2wYtOlEyzjK7ah13gkNpuq2IjRrBqkSYUn4Qa2gqvzp4IpNT71I0ZCFXNV8tDrprFgJBquLP782SjpLrEIfRSsZ%2F6NjbtX8B%2B0Wtfj0EEeVo2%2Fu%2B6nWmq9vyxvFrwGAPZLmaH6z0uQ6mJYf7HzJ7IMWP61BHH5%2B061OSPli%2FAyruaeI%2Bt2Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_bEwf_sYw

[@dlamo7029]

Wats the poly product used

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

It’s some concrete casting mold making poly… But very sheer resistant… and a select shore hardness for my aplication

[@dlamo7029]

@@DavidRoadworthyish wanted to order the exact producted cause the last time I tried mine never cured

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

@@dlamo7029 I hear you. This is the stuff I used... So far holding up fine www.ebay.com/itm/256165921692?hash=item3ba4adc39c:g:odcAAOSw4dRkyW~Y&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0AuNEbhMqsfWV3XU0MaJQ1C30zYiNQDqIdNNgpbrDydXzPQ3qw2KDiTGXcKviOAs%2BiHbiRtWshM3Ad%2F%2FVDp%2BbnBIi1VboiPBvI1ihN62FM14Q5d3oKtZwt9NAnad1lOLDHCBG4nhAFOIniqqOBmbOkBgY2pGg38UlTyrg3ZcOqq86hYarWbl0g6VwSkkSEpbMGIGqRqyrhLG%2B5SC4X2QYnNgzOx3P3H2zOYUh%2BE0QNDCuBHdFE8UbPfnkuD3gDWIwBPT%2FAGSqevyKeiwTDGjykY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5SCvunnYg

[@potchtaas873]

Can anyone help me lam in potchefstroom l need those to my Toyota Cressida

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

You Can make them..

[@dewholdingsllc1050]

Wire wheel it dude. File removes steel.

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

Yeah.. Mostly did… but removing the rubber bushing debris as it sticks after the BBQ

[@_UserUser_]

unbelievable... you have cut the genuine metal base and installed a weak universal bolt that it can snap in half with a strong hit, instead of just make new threads on the axle... This car is not safe anymore.

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

You obviously know what your talking about, and have done Lot’s of repairs just like this to have them snap and get experience from that…. Thank you for the fine analysis…

[@_UserUser_]

@@DavidRoadworthyish when a thread is damaged in a critical area like that, you just repair the thread, you don't cut the whole base without reason! You could just make a little smaller thread on the shaft and use a little smaller nut with a washer, or you could use helicoil too. When your hand is in pain, first solution is to make it feel better, you don't cut it!

[@DavidRoadworthyish]

@@_UserUser_ all the metal involved in the bracket for the lower Panhard bar mount was rusted far beyond repair. This was done to make it safe. The repair that was made is of much higher grade metal and thickness to ensure safety and function. Thank you for worrying about me. But I Got this.

[@nezabytes]

​@@_UserUser_well his name is roadworthyISH, lol!!!