Polyurethane Engine & Transmission Mounts for less than $25

[@DrewSkee__32]

I've been making my mounts for 3 years now doing this. I've never had a problem out of it & I can testify that the 3M is the better of his 2 options! Glad to see some people are picking this trick up though!

[@wellnesspathforme6236]

When you say the 3M is better, what do you mean? Does it ride more comfortably? Does it last longer? Both? What difference is there in terms of vibration?

[@nicks3608]

@@wellnesspathforme6236 If you are asking that question, put in loctite for engine mounts.

[@schalachi]

Same I use to break mounts all the time in a built Honda engine. Used the 3M that was 4 years ago…

[@jafinch78]

Wondering about making rear axle and front control arm jounces for the Dodge Ram gen2... maybe using a SORTA-Clear 37 mold for future trials. Seems like for the expense of the mold material and thinking using a softer material like the Loctite, since reads is a shore A 40, will work suitably. Thinking I might even be able to restore my old mounts that are missing the rubber where I place the cleaned metal on the mold and cover to adhere thoroughly. Any thoughts?

[@badtimegonesingh8883]

How much vibration you feel on steering By installing the Mount?

[@ivanovost1722]

I`ve done this with soft(shore A stiffness =37) poliutherane called SIKA 11 FC. Only difference is that i did not fill mount completely, I left little bit od empty spaces on the end of mount in order to achieve low vibration and allow bit of engine movement. Everything is perfect, engine movement exists but is it is much smaller and no vibration at all. Try this way and you will be very satisfied!!!!

[@Lukas-hq1vo]

Still all good? Planing to try for my scooter.

[@redbaronrefining5322]

With the 3m window weld, it’s a moisture activated hardener in it. I generally recommend to fill your mounts up halfway with the window weld, throw it into a bucket of water overnight to harden, then fill the 2nd half up, and throw back into the bucket overnight again so there aren’t any soft spots hidden inside that squish out when you go to install them and put force on the mounts. Just did this with my 12v Cummins and doing my first startup today in the rebuild to see how it goes!

[@giovannimoz85]

How did it go

[@Shiznit304]

How did it go

[@redbaronrefining5322]

@@giovannimoz85 they worked perfectly actually. A tad bit stiffer than previously, but they motor doesn’t move like it used to at all. Keep in mind that theres about 900lbs of cummins sitting on them with plenty of torque to test them haha

[@ayookb4338]

@@redbaronrefining5322all that needed to be said

[@rolfbjorn9937]

Keep in mind that these polyurethane caulks/sealants/adhesives are ONE PART MOISTURE CURING polyurethanes. If you cast them too deep they won't cure properly. On non porous surfaces you should add a very fine mist of water. Some products can also foam or have voids, so beware. TWO PART polyurethanes will cure no matter what the thickness is.

[@JeffLReeb]

Could you give more insight on the depth that is acceptable for casting? I have rear diff mounts that cannot be removed easily so the one part poly is a good application for me. Do you water mist the poly after applying it? I would think the water would evaporate rather quickly. Does applying heat (180F) enable better curing?

[@79huddy]

You can use a little mineral spirits on your finger tip to smooth it better and make it look a lot better

[@edwardgreenjr167]

This video was perfect timing. I recently purchased all new mounts and was slacking on the install. I think I'll go with the locktite, as my wife drives it more than I do, and would rather a little more comfort. The stock mounts have over 170K miles on them, so I know anything will be an improvement.

[@milanmastracci]

I would go with the Loctite as well for your car :) Let me know how it goes!

[@10SecondZ06]

@Edward Green, Jr How did the locktite work for you?

[@crisnmaryfam7344]

4:15 You would be wrong thinking that. ANY part coming from the factory warehouse has a coating applied to it to prevent surface rust before its sold to someone. This is why youll notice Metal things might feel a bit "slimy" or oily brand new.

[@sgoodhew]

Thanks for doing the research and testing so the rest of us can learn from your mistakes. Good video.

[@milanmastracci]

Thank you Shane! Share it with your buddies :)

[@mdshahidaneday8733]

L I'm excited

[@davekleiboeker4614]

I just repaired the transmission mount on my 2003 caravan. Filled the areas with locktite pl2 construction adhesive the two days ago . After filling it set over night help placed to under the hood and drive 40 minutes. Actually the one that I got free from the junkyard was the one I filled it was in reasonable condition. I took it for a short ride just now and it worked great so far…

[@bosanovaboy]

Can you please tell me, 3 days ago I put the polyurethane in my mounts and I'm waiting 4 more days till they are ready. Some dude on KZbin said the polyurethane will end up melting because of the engine heat, did anything like that happened to you? Thank you

[@raymondcascella4920]

I've been using the roof flashing polyurethane for yrs even used a thin film of it on the water seals on my rotery Rx7 engine 9000 miles so far no leaks. Also works great for weather seal repairs on doors ect.

[@ben-7403]

I did this recently but ended up going with 80a liquid casting/molding urethane from McMaster Carr, ~$35 with shipping I believe. Filled a total of four mounts. They also sell it in higher and lower durometer for different applications. Much less viscous than the windo-weld, it fills every nook and cranny and cures perfectly flat. It's between the consistency of maple syrup and honey for about an hour at room temp until it sets. Takes either 24 hours at 180F or a week at 70F to fully dry/cure which is the major disadvantage. I stuck mine on a baking sheet perched on top of some furnace piping (maybe 100-110F) and they felt fully cured within 48 hours.

[@schalachi]

awesome when I redo mine ill do this. I look the hardness cause after it while it breaks in. mine is 3m windscreen sealant. testifying 3 years now. Honda prelude f20b n management

[@graff502cans]

I been through 3set of mounts in 2years with my slightly mod camry lol I just bought a new set couple weeks ago and I'm glad I found this video 💪💪 I'm going to try it asap . Thanks brotha 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@zadeanrobinson1608]

Thanks a lot for this kind of research! I’m a mechanic part time while working a 9-5 full time and I’m going to recommend this to my customers when they take a OEM Mount to me for installation.

[@chargerification]

I just did this today so speaking from experience, Smooth-On Smooth-Cast is SO MUCH BETTER AND FIRMER THAN 3M WINDOW WELD. I PREVIOUSLY HAD WINDOW WELD ON MY DIFF MOUNT BUT SMOOTH-CAST 300 IS 100X BETTER AND LONGER LASTING!!

[@Mistervang209]

I used the loctite on my daily I like how firmer it is without super crazy vibrations. Its much stiffer my 60ft had less wheel hop also. They have a little vibrations but nothing crazy I would recommend for daily driven cars

[@leausis]

I did this with my r56 when I put a reman long block in due to burn down on cyl3. It took awhile to cure completely, but definitely made a difference. ...apart from more vibration.

[@leausis]

Also painted my engine bay nardo and the upper tie bar (radiator support cross member) blue to match the rest of the car. 😁

[@deson4958]

How much u let it sit to cure

[@konstantindufnik696]

Good idea, very good alternative to performance engine mounts witch are like 400$ a set.

[@milanmastracci]

Thank you! Its very handy too if someone doesn't have the option for aftermarket mounts

[@mannys9130]

I did this to one of my diesel MBs because those motor mounts are notorious for collapsing shortly after install. It was awful. 😭 I used a shore 30 Loctite poly because I wanted it to be soft to prevent transmitting a lot of vibration, but to be just firm enough to help the mount maintain its shape. It vibrated like an absolute nightmare. Cold starts would shake the entire car visibly from outside and when hot the AC compressor being spun vibrated it just as much. It drove ok once you were in gear and moving with higher engine rpm, but idling was pure misery. I took them out and bought another set of mounts and put them in which eliminated that vibration. That was only shore 30! I almost went with a 50 or 60 and that would have probably rattled the rearview mirror off the windshield. For a daily driver, I will not personally use or make poly motor mounts again in the future. A track car I would, but not a daily.

[@louvendran7273]

@mannys great advice. I agree totally.

[@milanmastracci]

I find that interesting because I wouldn't say it is that bad with the harder durometer poly that I used. I wonder if it has to do with the design of the mount itself. You can for sure feel some vibrating, but considering this is my daily, I wouldn't say it is unbearable, or even too harsh. I'm content with my mounts now. They're much better than the sloppy stock parts. I wonder how much of a difference there is between i4s, to V6s, to i6s, etc, and the vibrations.

[@longlegsescueta2335]

Of course it will really vibrate a lot considering your using the polyurethane into a diesel engine. Usually a diesel engine has a longer stroke than bore making it provide more torque. More stroke means more torque and more torque means more vibrations. And its more noticeable in diesel engine with lets say 4 cylinders than with more cylinders.

[@mannys9130]

@@longlegsescueta2335 Not entirely correct. Besides, this was an IDI 2.2 liter engine with a redline of 5,000 rpm. It's in the class of "high speed diesels." IDIs are different beasts than DIs; much smoother and much faster revving. Mercedes designed the 2.3L 4 cylinder gas engine with hydraulic motor mounts. They designed the 2.2L diesel with solid rubber mounts. If what you say is 100% correct, Mercedes made a grave error with one of the (seemingly) most basic design elements. We're talking about 1980's Mercedes Benz. They did not make those kinds of mistakes. 😉

[@rickylah69]

I. Using pl loctite roof n flashing rated 30a, it's completely like stock. And wish I gone for something slightly harder.

[@Phil-D83]

The two part liquid urethane @ 60 spec would work better to fill. You can drill holes to give them some flex.

[@mrmidnight32]

Yea he literally is still just on stock mounts packed with poly. It’s no where near running a full aftermarket poly mount.

[@bchnts]

This is very interesting definitely gonna try it !!!

[@ACarriere117]

That look of pure joy at 10:07 minutes is gold.

[@youtubiefun]

I've done this with the Loctite on two of my mounts. Yeah, you can feel more vibrations. But the mounts will last "forever". Lol

[@BPoweredLove]

What's funny about this? I'm missing what you're laughing about.

[@djmussy18]

when u got a sports car, vibration is not a big deal... i'd rather have a responsive car than a little more vibration

[@dwayneevans683]

@@djmussy18 BULLCRAP, mounts are designed to cancel out vibrations, when u alter that you destroy the car ride feel! resonance is not good for anything the frame or your nerves ! , AUTO manufacturers spend millions of dollars ! dealing with resonance !Which can even fracture the strongest metals!

[@eds.8900]

I would be curious to see how the loctite mounts would make the car ride . I'm sure it's better than stock.

[@ViralClipsThatDontSuck]

Probably not noticable to be honest. Ive worked around it enough to know its not doing much for stability, its more or less adding longevity to the set up by adding more meat for the vibrations to deteriorate less on the actual plastic. If he was using some jb weld or something id say it would make a difference but most caulkings aside from geocil dry pretty rubbery.

[@claudiosalerno573]

Honestly, it seemed like a terrible idea, trying to replace a car part with something homemade, but apparently there is no problem, thank you very much, I did not know about this!

[@selwyn13]

What about for the lower control arm bushings?

[@andrewa9604]

Great video man, very informative for those less mechanically inclined. Great work. 👍

[@milanmastracci]

Thank you! I appreciate it 👊

[@adolfogaxiola8930]

That throw back tho when he use to do all these type of diy love it!

[@milanmastracci]

YEAH BUDDY!!! More to come

[@mrmaguilar22]

Fyi, the caulking gun contains a puncture tool.

[@milanmastracci]

Actually? lol where?

[@skillps]

Under the front, should have a long needle like thing on a swivel, should also have a cutter integrated into the trigger/handle side

[@vinny1995]

The caulk gun also has a nozzle cutter, usually located in the handle. Look for a hole where you insert the nozzle tip, then it gets cut when you squeeze the handle.

[@ViralClipsThatDontSuck]

Also pro tip on caulking for a perfect finish, spit on your finger, then use your finger to put a nice clean finish on the top of the caulk. The spit doesnt allow the caulking to stick to your glove. This is the difference between a small minded caulk man, and a huuuuge caulk mind.

[@spankthemonkey3437]

@@milanmastracci I just used goop we will see how that works 🤣

[@gumpokiegp6259]

Thank you for your video and time. Done like a pro. Good luck with future mods!!🔥💯

[@armankordi]

gonna do the locktite poly on my 1990 civic hatch.... mounts are all torn and need replacement. going to do an experiment will check back in a week

[@guilhermelopes9363]

Feedback?

[@jimmurihiku8009]

Had replaced all my bushes with polythane and because my vehicle wasn't used for a few years the brushes disintegrated. I went back to the original rubber and haven't had a problem since.

[@milanmastracci]

What kind of mounts were they? You shouldn't ever need to replace them long term, unlike the rubber.

[@jimmurihiku8009]

@@milanmastracci they were red nolathane and have been told since that unless they are being used regularly then what happened to mine ,would occur .

[@jimmurihiku8009]

@@milanmastracci i went back to NOS rubber mounts

[@lynkpaul33]

Yes, that's what it's like to have engine mounts...lol I Use the 3M as well and it works perfectly.

[@ford_probe_garage_studio]

- Great video. I will use the 3M to repair my rear mount that is still on the car. Cannot remove it because I refuse to drop the subframe to get to the mounting bolts. Hoping this gets me by for a while longer. Thank you

[@milanmastracci]

I hope it works for you! 👍

[@batman106]

I had aftermarket mounts on my RSX and it wasn't that bad. You feel the vibrations when idling but once you drive off it's butter smooth!

[@milanmastracci]

Couldn't agree with you more! I love them!

[@jorgechavezoseguera]

I put innovative mounts On my 07 v6 accord, I only feel hard vibrations when start the engine and put it in drive but driving feels like a dream compared to shitty oem ones, im planing to do the 3m windo weld to the trans mounts

[@gasNmudtv]

Thanks for the in depth video. Gonna beef up my bushings on my control arms on my audi. Cheers from Canada

[@CharlieHarper-d4x]

Could add rubber grains to the poly and mix it up before adding it to the voids , it might allow the mounts to dampen the vibration.

[@ZERONEINNOVATIONS]

I've tried this with my 02 civic. I dried in a hot summer room for 2 weeks and it was not enough. Polyurethane tried to come out and deformed. I highly recommend drying it for a month, or use different fill material.

[@JoseGonzalez-mp5iw]

The "AHH..!!" at 11:08 sold me on the 3M stuff. SOLD!! walking into The Home Depot now to try to buy this stuff. Thanks for the video.

[@triumphbloke2011]

Interesting. It'll be good to see how it all pans out longer term

[@milanmastracci]

3 weeks later, no problems! I will update regarding these mounts.

[@louvendran7273]

It's only for boy racers driving on flat roads.

[@highlandminger4009]

@@louvendran7273 Not true; that may be who predominantly utilises this hack, but it is actually helpful when your engine mount , and even generic version, is not available. My daily ride has been sitting for two months due to lack of production due to COVID. Now, I will attempt this. I would rather have a little more vibration than not being able to use it at all.

[@ToolsOutsideTheBox]

For your daily, it’s better to use the harder product in the torque strut only. Use the softer product or just bare stock mounts for the engine and trans. It’s the best of both worlds without rattling your teeth out.

[@Voltzaps]

This is so untrue. Did you not watch the video? Don’t listen to this guy, guys. All polyurethane mounts will last at least 5x longer and much better shifting. Saving a lot of money in the long run.

[@funintheshop1247]

I have a very off brand atv thats impossible to find a arm bushings for. Its for my daughter so it's either fix it or sell it. Gonna try this and see if it will hold every thing in place

[@francocampoli2418]

I would love to watch what you did to the front motor mount, I know it is vacuum operated. So please show how you did that one!!

[@accordv6er]

I feel like I should drill the mounts where they need the most reinforcement, window weld the "tubes" and caps to do sorta the torque solutions thing, ideally keep NVH reasonable but get less deflection

[@BPoweredLove]

Hey, Milan. If you had to guess (or maybe you know from using your durometer), what do you think the hardness of the OEM rubber used in stock mounts is?

[@focalpolyglass7337]

Thanks this is great!! How is it going now? You have been wearing it for months now. Please update with the review

[@Fifthgeargarage]

That’s honestly a great idea! Loving the car and can’t wait for the swap!!

[@milanmastracci]

Coming soon!

[@joelbeaman8681]

I wonder if you mixed the Pro Line and the 3M Window Weld if they would give you something like a 55 Shore A hardness?

[@achmada9338]

The way you brought the vid so good broo

[@Van-tastic]

Well son of a gun... Thanks for getting the durometer tester. I never would have thought it would be hard enough

[@aycabbas]

Hello, in discription you metion about 3M hardness of 80 but in datasheet they wrote 55-60. Do you think the Elongation is also important? The 3M has 700%. In europe we doesnt have this product, so i found a sealant with 380% elongation and 60 shore A based on Polymeer.

[@you-ue1fg]

Ey! Chris FIX here! :) nice tutorial, been watching all your Chris fix videos!

[@omarherrera213]

You !!! Lol... what a troll. Good one. Had me thinking I commented.

[@juicer52]

I see the question has been asked a few times but no answers. I have a 08 Subaru Outback and need to replace/repair the front lower control arm bushings BUT I don't have a spare ride. Any suggestions of whether to use the 3M or Loctite for this application AND what is the drying time for each of the two products considering the relative thickness being used??

[@sssmithVR]

You know there is a metal rod on the caulking gun specifically for poking a hole in the tube right?

[@aharracksingh4465]

Mod reminds me of the old school guys who used to switch out to solid rubber mounts.

[@hankthebugman]

If you want negligible power loss thru the OE mounts, solid mounts are the way to go...however vibration will be maximum and likely too annoying for most DIY'ers...

[@milanmastracci]

Very true!!

[@robwasmomsrob]

Can you speed up the curing of the sealant with a little heat???? How long curing time

[@tomheckhaus7617]

Hi Milán, A little off topic I guess. As you know I also have a 2009 Honda Accord it's more or less stock. Standard Vtec engine and 5 speed auto. I know yours is a stick but can you give me a rundown on the differences between yours and the stock 09 Accord, mine is a coupe. I've checked all your posted videos and I can't find any that show the engine transmission work you've done. Every time you open the hood on yours, I say darn! Mine doesn't look like that! Thanks

[@milanmastracci]

My transmission work is very simple. I swapped a K24Z7 Honda Civic Si transmission into my engine bay, which gave me an extra gear, a Limited slip differential, and shorter gearing. Completely transformed how the car drives. I'll do an update video come spring time regarding what's done to the car :)

[@MrRangerZr1]

You finally tried it out ;)

[@milanmastracci]

LOL I needed some sort of upgrade

[@alexandru-gh]

What about silicone? I think silicone is better than polyurethane because it’s inorganic and has more resistance in time. Also is a bit flexible so will absorb more shocks.

[@jeffruebens8355]

I am thinking an expanding polyurethane foam first, then a soft urethane waterproof panel adhesive as the last quarter inch might be better for street use. Adding Fluid Film spray from a Lowes store every fall would keep the surface from getting age cracks later.

[@Br0d0n]

Use Berkebile PFC instead of fluid film. It has a higher lanolin content and lasts 15x longer

[@JeffLReeb]

According to 3M this product has a Shore hardness of 60. Hello Jeff, Thank you for contacting 3M, The 3M™ Windo-Weld™ Super Fast Urethane, 08609 has a shore A hardness of 60. Unfortunately we do not have an adhesive with that hardness. Regards, Don V. U.S. Business Services Operations

[@johnvermicelli5649]

I did this over a year ago on my mini cooper s .it helped with the torque steer . The ones one the market are to stiff . Rattles the car too much

[@adrianvega4817]

vibrations are low or none at all ?

[@markmlinar1511]

I see you can order different thickness from a place like McMaster Carr. The offer 60a in a liquid and I'm thinking of trying that route.

[@driftshift18]

Hey how hard is the loctite ? I want to do this to my LCA bushings, which one would u recommend for bushings ?

[@a.sarmiento5116]

Am curious, what if you put cavities in those mount with polyurethane by drilling it through end to end as if acting as an absorber or shocks? Will this lessen the stiffness? Also have a broken mount so I just plan to fill it with polyurethane instead of removing the broken rubber the perhaps drill to lessen stiffness.

[@CharlieHarper-d4x]

Could add rubber grains to the poly mix before adding.

[@a.sarmiento5116]

@@CharlieHarper-d4x Was thinking also putting nails to those spaces acting as the original spaces when putting the poly then removing it once cured.

[@CharlieHarper-d4x]

@a.sarmiento5116 yeah that could work , tho long screws might be better as removing them would be easier. Iv got very soft rubber grains from when I worked in an injection moulding company but haven't tried using them yet .

[@welcometoreality3450]

what about auto trans bearing etc... wear now that there less give? I would think you would want to align everything well in that engine bay

[@bryanfigueroa3]

Hey milan great video man!! Quick question? How many tubes of the 3m product did you use for all your 5 mounts? Thanks!

[@milanmastracci]

I bought 3, but only ended up using 2.

[@Thesaurcery4U2C]

Squirt a little windex on your finger, or on any tool that you choose to use to smooth the surface of the urethane with. It won't stick to windex.

[@bosanovaboy]

Can you please tell me, 3 days ago I put the polyurethane in my mounts and I'm waiting 4 more days till they are ready. Some dude on KZbin said the polyurethane will end up melting because of the engine heat, did anything like that happened to you? Thank you

[@AbachrielPuastologawa]

So that's just add the silicone sealant to gasket but how if the rubber gasket entirely replace with the silicone sealant?

[@karwinchau4684]

Does filling the motor mounts with poly does that lower the vibration inside the car? Besides making them more durable and stiff?

[@SickeningGojo]

Just found this channel and love the content! Watchedthe header install and this. Already got a new subscriber here

[@Alaa_aboud1985]

If I buy new motor mounts and fill them with silicone, will it increase their lifespan?

[@milanmastracci]

Sure will! The less the rubber flexes, the slower it will degrade

[@simondejoria3922]

Great video man,but where in the description is what exactly to buy and where from Thanks 😊

[@alethehunter]

Hey thanks for the video, im thinking of doing this with my mounts, but im not sure if i should do it with the windo weld or the loctite.

[@fiddle2011]

What’s the consequences or what wear should be looking for that could be obvious from too much engine movement or transmission movement on your vehicle , with worn out mounts & bushes

[@roybrown4944]

How long does they last compared to stock?

[@socknetea]

if you use stock mounts like I did it will last until the stock mounts rot out

[@xavierriestra9200]

i wonder if i can do this for my steering rack it moves because the bushing is broken

[@djquick]

Flexane 80 is the best product for filling rubber mount cavities. It’s a proper 2 part urethane rubber.

[@kangapoopradjan4426]

The UK military has been using Flexane for 50+ years to field repair many types of mount & much more Did my MK1 GTI in the 80's with this stuff & sold loads @GTI International over the years Good to see old ideas still being used

[@drvngstorm05]

How is the temperature resistance? The mount I want to put the 3M into is very close to the exhaust and will be exposed to a lot of heat that does tend to soften up some of the aftermarket all-polyurethane mounts available for it

[@musskeeterbump]

Im going to try this out as a temp fix until I can order a set of legit urethane mounts , good thing they make complete set for my current ride . I've used them in my previous car and I loved them .they feel solid af 😎👌

[@davekleiboeker4614]

And then???

[@jafinch78]

Thanks for the specs on the shore A values. Was wondering about making rear axle and front control arm jounces for the Dodge Ram gen2... maybe using a SORTA-Clear 37 mold for future trials. I was also thinking about somehow using instead of hockey pucks that are the softer foam material for the youth, using old tire treat material since is usually a shore A 60. Seems like for the expense of the mold material and thinking also using a softer material like the Loctite, since reads is a shore A 40, will work suitably. Thinking I might even be able to restore my old mounts that are missing the rubber where I place the cleaned metal on the mold and cover to adhere thoroughly. Also, maybe can use some old tire rubber inside like super glued to the mount for a little more stiffness under load. Any thoughts?

[@jafinch78]

After reading the data sheets noting they PL 30 is a 25-30 shore A and movement capability of 35%, I'm wondering if some PL 20 I found I had around is a little better since even noting a shore A of only 25 though has a higher PSI potential and a lesser 25% movement capability. Think I'm going to try using for jounces if the tubes aren't seized up since most likely is way expired.

[@jafinch78]

Interesting reading the datasheet for the 3M Window Weld notes a shore A of 55-60 and an elongation of 700%.

[@jafinch78]

Looks like GEOCEL 68103 reports a shore A of 45 and an elongation of 881%

[@manrajmudhar8398]

Do you recon it's good for a 20 year old car? Defo not a daily but sure would give a longer life as it's dry stored at min sure wouldn't hurt right? Might try when it's on the road depending how badly abused they are but thanks keep us updated and would be good to see different grades of polyurethane if there are any

[@benhogervorst]

I used Loctite 'Window and Siding' polyurethane sealant instead of the 'Roof and Flashing' version. Main difference I can see is that my stuff is white. Still waiting for it to dry so hopefully it'll work as well.

[@badtimegonesingh8883]

How is the result.

[@davekleiboeker4614]

What happened now

[@paulleblanc3301]

I tried finding the one in the video can't find it I found loctite PL 8× stronger polyurethane based will that work

[@dewholdingsllc1050]

I have newer more high tech sealer adhesives than those which are not new. May try one with a known cure rate as those are very slow to cure.

[@rizkyutama7402]

I'm not looking for performance, just wanna repair my engine mounts. Preferably for the same comfort before the mounts were broken. Any suggestions for the sealant?

[@milanmastracci]

I would use the Loctite polyurethane in that case as it is not aggressive like the 3M one. 👍

[@BeefCake93]

Heading to Home Depot to start this process

[@razzis7703]

Hey Milmast your information is misleading, the hardness of 3M window weld (08609) as per data sheet is 55-60 and not 80

[@BiggRanger]

Great info! I need to make custom mounts to put a 4.7L V8 in my Jeep JK.

[@predator627]

I replaced all the mounts and i have vibrations inside any advice

[@emmanuelvillegas3079]

Hows the long term effect? There still holding up. The life span ?

[@zrfamilyroadtrip]

Can use for control arm bushing? It seems 3m durometer test up to 75a..i think enough shore hardness,better than stock only 60a.. it’s correct 3m 75a? Becaus on TDS 3m only 50-60a. Thanks

[@thetraindriver01]

Nice little quick fix vid, sorted 👍👍😜

[@milanmastracci]

👍

[@Ben-Rogue]

I wonder if these hold up over time. Any chance you can do an update video?

[@GoGetterGarage]

11:07 when you don’t miss second gear ... lol great video man definitely going to give this a shot!

[@davekleiboeker4614]

What’s the result after a year?

[@yzhang4418]

My engine mount is directly under cat converter (like 10cm below). Since polyurethane isn’t heat resistant, is it gonna catch fire or melt? Thanks

[@MsMilios]

Very nice work thank you for your education to us .

[@azaharimohamad746]

after 4 years, how is ti?

[@myevilbanana]

My rear mount is toast and has been on order for 4 months now, dealer thinks manufacturer is changing who they source though, they just keep pushing the date back. Can’t even find a used one. Do you think this could salvage my mount? It’s so bad the flexing has destroyed my exhaust flex pipe.